Sound Quality Systems!!! (pics)
06-17-2007, 10:21 PM
#28
Senior Member
Thread Starter
YES! It makes a huge difference! If your going to install a high powered system, you should install dynamat (or alternative) before you do anything else! Just be aware that some products are thinner and less effective than others!
06-17-2007, 10:49 PM
#29
Senior Member
I think I'm goin to grab 100 sq ft of "B-Quiet" off of ebay. I hear its supposed to be better than dynamat extreme.
"B-Quiet" FTMFW!!!!!!
06-18-2007, 12:48 PM
#32
FYI how thick the product is doesnt matter as much as what its made out of.... Infact if your just concerned with thickness i have about a 1/2 sq ft of edead UE that ill give away (u pay shipping)... its the "thickest" product on the market and i refuse to put it on my car
06-18-2007, 02:05 PM
#34
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Here's my system...so far!
Here's my system...so far! I have a couple more things to add (JL 6w3v3 subs somewhere close to the front of the vehicle. The subs don't come out until July, but I just bought the amp for them on eBay. It's an Alpine MRD-M300 to match my other amps. That black "thing" with the hole in it is a fibreglass pod lined with Dynamat. It helps improve midbass clarity and reduces the sound coming off the back of the speaker. It also makes the rear deck heavier so it vibrates less! I used Fatmat on the top of the rear deck also. (It's actually not very "fat") I prefer Dynamat Extreme, I used that on the trunk lid and on the floor. I also used a fibreglass "pod" behind the 6.5" mids. I can barely feel any vibration in the doors when my arm is on the armrest! I used Fatmat in the doors also. I use my 60GB iPod filled with almost 1900 songs in Apple lossless format and use a dock to RCA connecting cable for clean signal transfer to my "old school" Alpine head unit. My sub signal runs directly from my head unit to an Audio Control "Overdrive" line driver to send a nice clean, powerful signal to my sub. I highly recommend using a line driver, it really improves the clarity and overall output of your sub(s). I use the Kicker 9 band EQ to fine tune my mids and highs only. That way, I can boost or cut the low frequencies going to my mids without affecting my sub bass level. Wow! I'm pretty much writing a book here! If you have any questions, post 'em here. I hope this helps some "newbies" with their system building. I learned a bit to much from trial and error! That means I wasted a lot of money! I wish I had internet access about 6 years ago, it's amazing what you can learn on these forums! Oh yeah! The amps are an Alpine MRV-F340 4-channel for the Infinity "Kappa" 2 0hm mids and highs, and an Alpine MRD-M500 powers the JL 10W6V2 in JL's patented "High Output" box. I love this system! It plays clean and undistorted as loud as I can handle!
Last edited by Bumpin Balt; 06-18-2007 at 02:42 PM. Reason: Added more info!
06-18-2007, 03:37 PM
#36
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Door panels
Yes, I just put the trim ring on the door panel and moved it it around until I found the "sweet spot" (the spot where it sits nice and flat) I put masking tape on the panel and then traced the inside circle of the trim ring. Then I went at it with my trusty Dremel! I also placed a vented fibreglass pod lined with Dynamat on the inside with machine screws going through the speaker, the panel and the fibreglass pod to clamp them all tightly together. I mounted my cross-overs inside the panel just below the armrest. I used R/C car battery connectors (Deans Ultra plugs) to connect the speakers to the wires running back to my 4-channel amp. I considered making Fibreglass enclosures on the outside of the panel so I could angle the mids upward slightly, but I decided to try this first because it looks cleaner.
06-18-2007, 03:59 PM
#37
Here's my system...so far! I have a couple more things to add (JL 6w3v3 subs somewhere close to the front of the vehicle. The subs don't come out until July, but I just bought the amp for them on eBay. It's an Alpine MRD-M300 to match my other amps. That black "thing" with the hole in it is a fibreglass pod lined with Dynamat. It helps improve midbass clarity and reduces the sound coming off the back of the speaker. It also makes the rear deck heavier so it vibrates less! I used Fatmat on the top of the rear deck also. (It's actually not very "fat") I prefer Dynamat Extreme, I used that on the trunk lid and on the floor. I also used a fibreglass "pod" behind the 6.5" mids. I can barely feel any vibration in the doors when my arm is on the armrest! I used Fatmat in the doors also. I use my 60GB iPod filled with almost 1900 songs in Apple lossless format and use a dock to RCA connecting cable for clean signal transfer to my "old school" Alpine head unit. My sub signal runs directly from my head unit to an Audio Control "Overdrive" line driver to send a nice clean, powerful signal to my sub. I highly recommend using a line driver, it really improves the clarity and overall output of your sub(s). I use the Kicker 9 band EQ to fine tune my mids and highs only. That way, I can boost or cut the low frequencies going to my mids without affecting my sub bass level. Wow! I'm pretty much writing a book here! If you have any questions, post 'em here. I hope this helps some "newbies" with their system building. I learned a bit to much from trial and error! That means I wasted a lot of money! I wish I had internet access about 6 years ago, it's amazing what you can learn on these forums! Oh yeah! The amps are an Alpine MRV-F340 4-channel for the Infinity "Kappa" 2 0hm mids and highs, and an Alpine MRD-M500 powers the JL 10W6V2 in JL's patented "High Output" box. I love this system! It plays clean and undistorted as loud as I can handle!
06-18-2007, 04:21 PM
#38
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Yes, I just put the trim ring on the door panel and moved it it around until I found the "sweet spot" (the spot where it sits nice and flat) I put masking tape on the panel and then traced the inside circle of the trim ring. Then I went at it with my trusty Dremel! I also placed a vented fibreglass pod lined with Dynamat on the inside with machine screws going through the speaker, the panel and the fibreglass pod to clamp them all tightly together. I mounted my cross-overs inside the panel just below the armrest. I used R/C car battery connectors (Deans Ultra plugs) to connect the speakers to the wires running back to my 4-channel amp. I considered making Fibreglass enclosures on the outside of the panel so I could angle the mids upward slightly, but I decided to try this first because it looks cleaner.
06-18-2007, 06:54 PM
#39
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Tweeter Location
The imaging is really good down by the mids, The angle is adjustable on the mounts. I need to angle driver's side one towards the driver position a bit more and then they should be close to perfect! I did some research on stereo imaging before I did the install and I found some info that recommended mounting the tweeters as close to the mids as possible. However,make sure you use angle mounts to point them towards the most important listening position, the driver's seat! This is important because higher frequencies are more directional than low frequencies. Another reason for mounting them low is the distance of each tweeter from your ear becomes closer to equal. For example, if your tweeters are mounted in the a-pillars, the one on the left will be about a foot from the drivers head, while the the one on the right will be around 3+ feet away. If you mount them near the bottom of the door panels, the distance evens out slightly with the tweeter in the left door panel being about 2 feet away, and the tweeter on the right being around 3 feet away. If you mount them in the kickpanels, the distance evens out even more! But then you have no room for your feet! To answer the power question my 4-channel puts out about 68watts RMS per channel into the 2 ohm Infinity Kappa's. My sub gets about 580watts RMS. That's according to the Alpine lab test papers that came with my amps.
06-19-2007, 08:38 PM
#44
Senior Member
well, I have 2 cobalts done so far, the first is not SQ so to say, but it is much better then stock, fairly simple and, mostly hidden.
This Amp is under the passenger seat.
Infinity speakers all around. 50x4rms Amp and a Infinity Basslink in the trunk. Eclipse High end Deck for sound....
This is my most recent set up, more for Sound quality, but also so I can hear the music comfortably at highway speeds with the windows open....
One Amp bolted to the rear deck (I'll put better pics of it up in a few min) 75x4 RMS and 280x1 RMS for my sub.
Diamond Audio D6 6.5" components all around and a RF P3 Shallow in the stock sealed enclosure.
Currently running off my stock headunit and a RF 3sixty.1 till I can get a Pioneer AVIC-D3 unit.
This Amp is under the passenger seat.
Infinity speakers all around. 50x4rms Amp and a Infinity Basslink in the trunk. Eclipse High end Deck for sound....
This is my most recent set up, more for Sound quality, but also so I can hear the music comfortably at highway speeds with the windows open....
One Amp bolted to the rear deck (I'll put better pics of it up in a few min) 75x4 RMS and 280x1 RMS for my sub.
Diamond Audio D6 6.5" components all around and a RF P3 Shallow in the stock sealed enclosure.
Currently running off my stock headunit and a RF 3sixty.1 till I can get a Pioneer AVIC-D3 unit.
06-19-2007, 08:39 PM
#45
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Ok i might be a complete idiot for thinking this but... Doesn't everybody put in a system they think sounds good. so i guess everysystem is a sound quality system. Like my system. I spent about $1500 on it and i know its going to sound amazing. I dont know anyone who willingly puts in a sound system they think wount be good quality. that being siad... i am very much enjoying looking at these systems.
06-19-2007, 08:51 PM
#46
Senior Member
more pics...
This is my Amp (it is a SQ amp)
this is where it's mounted
and my crossovers on the red car.
wireing will be cleaned up when I get to adding the motorized amp rack...
As for my own Car, the blue one,
Haven't started yet, but will be going AVIC-Z2 to a JBL 75.4 II (114x4 RMS) and a JBL 1200.1 II at 1024x1 RMS hooked up to a RF Punch Power DVC 12" (1000 W RMS)
My interior speakers will be JBL GTi 6.5"s (I'm considering running one set and bridging my amp to like 250x2 RMS but not sure...)
If you want to see the Cavalier take a look here
This is my Amp (it is a SQ amp)
this is where it's mounted
and my crossovers on the red car.
wireing will be cleaned up when I get to adding the motorized amp rack...
As for my own Car, the blue one,
Haven't started yet, but will be going AVIC-Z2 to a JBL 75.4 II (114x4 RMS) and a JBL 1200.1 II at 1024x1 RMS hooked up to a RF Punch Power DVC 12" (1000 W RMS)
My interior speakers will be JBL GTi 6.5"s (I'm considering running one set and bridging my amp to like 250x2 RMS but not sure...)
If you want to see the Cavalier take a look here
06-19-2007, 09:17 PM
#47
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Join Date: 04-19-07
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now those (the ones pictured) are SQ systems!! nice job boys, that must sound amazing.
it means as opposed to SPL, where you are going for volume and pressure.
You are trying to build the cleanest sounding system. not overwhelming bass. I dont consider having a SQ system unless you are running upgraded cabin speakers, tweets, subs, and all amplified. not to mention the proper charging system and cabling.
adding subs and an amp doesnt give you a SQ system.
Ok i might be a complete idiot for thinking this but... Doesn't everybody put in a system they think sounds good. so i guess everysystem is a sound quality system. Like my system. I spent about $1500 on it and i know its going to sound amazing. I dont know anyone who willingly puts in a sound system they think wount be good quality. that being siad... i am very much enjoying looking at these systems.
You are trying to build the cleanest sounding system. not overwhelming bass. I dont consider having a SQ system unless you are running upgraded cabin speakers, tweets, subs, and all amplified. not to mention the proper charging system and cabling.
adding subs and an amp doesnt give you a SQ system.
Last edited by FuriouS; 06-19-2007 at 09:18 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
06-19-2007, 10:05 PM
#48
Senior Member
now those (the ones pictured) are SQ systems!! nice job boys, that must sound amazing.
it means as opposed to SPL, where you are going for volume and pressure.
You are trying to build the cleanest sounding system. not overwhelming bass. I dont consider having a SQ system unless you are running upgraded cabin speakers, tweets, subs, and all amplified. not to mention the proper charging system and cabling.
adding subs and an amp doesnt give you a SQ system.
it means as opposed to SPL, where you are going for volume and pressure.
You are trying to build the cleanest sounding system. not overwhelming bass. I dont consider having a SQ system unless you are running upgraded cabin speakers, tweets, subs, and all amplified. not to mention the proper charging system and cabling.
adding subs and an amp doesnt give you a SQ system.
Hopefully your talking about me (and several others) Thanks if you are.
I don't really think of the Cavalier in the link as a SQ system though, It's also extremely loud. But definately not your run of the mill SPL system.
06-19-2007, 10:59 PM
#49
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for comin' out!
Thanks for the pic, but I don't think that qualifies as a clean install...lol! It must be pretty loud though! New rule for this thread! Your install must make use of carpeting or fiberglass! (at least throw a coat of paint on your box(es)!)