Electronics, Audio, and Video All Audio, Video, Alarms, and all other electronics

Sound Quality Systems!!! (pics)

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-22-2007, 02:14 AM
  #76  
Senior Member
 
HackAbuse's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-16-05
Location: Central NY
Posts: 11,137
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by xspyder85x
i ordered 100sq ft and its done the floor, ceilling, doors, walls, and trunk
just one layer?

I'm buying 125 sq ft of RAAMMAT soon
Old 06-22-2007, 02:17 AM
  #77  
Senior Member
 
JKennedy1612's Avatar
 
Join Date: 02-03-07
Location: Missouri
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by EmperorJJ1
right the hatch helps a ton (had a maro) but i JL w-7s are very nice sq woofers. IMO the price isnt worth it but if you got a deal or a hook up JL is a great choice. Only thing is ive herd they are very picky with being over powered from some peeps and from others ive herd that that was just a BS rumor so think what you will and do what you do
They are extremely over priced but they are good subs...If I were to do it again I would have chosen a 10" W7 with half the watts. The rumor is false. Those subs can handle enormous amounts of power...
Old 06-22-2007, 12:05 PM
  #78  
New Member
 
Boltin Balt's Avatar
 
Join Date: 06-11-07
Location: SO FLO
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Good looking install's guy's!
Old 06-22-2007, 01:21 PM
  #79  
Senior Member
 
cobalt_addict's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-09-06
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 654
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The B-Quiet actually helped alot witht he trunk, alot less rattles, if any from the deck lid and everything, as well as a little less road noise...once i get the rest done it should really help. I too ordered 100 sq Ft. and it seems like plenty.
Old 06-22-2007, 07:27 PM
  #80  
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
EmperorJJ1's Avatar
 
Join Date: 09-03-06
Location: OR
Posts: 19,438
Received 31 Likes on 29 Posts
lol go with second skin and stop wasting your time with other junk.... got most of my second skin in today
Old 06-22-2007, 07:36 PM
  #81  
Senior Member
 
HackAbuse's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-16-05
Location: Central NY
Posts: 11,137
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I hear good things about SecondSkin, but to tell the truth I hear more about RAAMmat, plus the RAAMmat is less expensive, so I'm taking that route
Old 06-22-2007, 08:04 PM
  #82  
New Member
 
black_bullet_gt's Avatar
 
Join Date: 05-16-07
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Was that the extreme or the ultimate??
Old 06-22-2007, 10:50 PM
  #83  
Senior Member
 
cobalt_addict's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-09-06
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 654
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
extreme
Old 06-23-2007, 02:27 AM
  #84  
New Member
 
lightsout's Avatar
 
Join Date: 07-08-06
Location: Toronto
Posts: 196
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Revomad1












Here's my system...so far! I have a couple more things to add (JL 6w3v3 subs somewhere close to the front of the vehicle. The subs don't come out until July, but I just bought the amp for them on eBay. It's an Alpine MRD-M300 to match my other amps. That black "thing" with the hole in it is a fibreglass pod lined with Dynamat. It helps improve midbass clarity and reduces the sound coming off the back of the speaker. It also makes the rear deck heavier so it vibrates less! I used Fatmat on the top of the rear deck also. (It's actually not very "fat") I prefer Dynamat Extreme, I used that on the trunk lid and on the floor. I also used a fibreglass "pod" behind the 6.5" mids. I can barely feel any vibration in the doors when my arm is on the armrest! I used Fatmat in the doors also. I use my 60GB iPod filled with almost 1900 songs in Apple lossless format and use a dock to RCA connecting cable for clean signal transfer to my "old school" Alpine head unit. My sub signal runs directly from my head unit to an Audio Control "Overdrive" line driver to send a nice clean, powerful signal to my sub. I highly recommend using a line driver, it really improves the clarity and overall output of your sub(s). I use the Kicker 9 band EQ to fine tune my mids and highs only. That way, I can boost or cut the low frequencies going to my mids without affecting my sub bass level. Wow! I'm pretty much writing a book here! If you have any questions, post 'em here. I hope this helps some "newbies" with their system building. I learned a bit to much from trial and error! That means I wasted a lot of money! I wish I had internet access about 6 years ago, it's amazing what you can learn on these forums! Oh yeah! The amps are an Alpine MRV-F340 4-channel for the Infinity "Kappa" 2 0hm mids and highs, and an Alpine MRD-M500 powers the JL 10W6V2 in JL's patented "High Output" box. I love this system! It plays clean and undistorted as loud as I can handle!
I love what you did with your door setup. I have also heard that keeping the tweeters close to the 6.5 mids are better. I have a couple of questions though:

What did you do with the tweeters in the A-Pillars, did you disconnect them?

Also, your door 6.5's and tweeters are components I assume?
Old 06-23-2007, 05:44 AM
  #85  
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
EmperorJJ1's Avatar
 
Join Date: 09-03-06
Location: OR
Posts: 19,438
Received 31 Likes on 29 Posts
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/
Old 06-23-2007, 10:17 AM
  #86  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Bumpin Balt's Avatar
 
Join Date: 02-22-07
Location: Elmira,ON, Canada
Posts: 3,673
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Canada

Originally Posted by lightsout
I love what you did with your door setup. I have also heard that keeping the tweeters close to the 6.5 mids are better. I have a couple of questions though:

What did you do with the tweeters in the A-Pillars, did you disconnect them?

Also, your door 6.5's and tweeters are components I assume?
Yes, the stock tweeters are disconnected. My 6.5's are components, the crossover is mounted in the door panel just under the armrest. I am considering mounting midbass drivers on the flat portion on the bottom of the door panel.
Old 06-23-2007, 03:14 PM
  #87  
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
EmperorJJ1's Avatar
 
Join Date: 09-03-06
Location: OR
Posts: 19,438
Received 31 Likes on 29 Posts
nice what midbass u looking at?
Old 06-23-2007, 03:35 PM
  #88  
Senior Member
 
HackAbuse's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-16-05
Location: Central NY
Posts: 11,137
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by EmperorJJ1
Yeah i understand that it can withstand 500 degrees, but who cares? I'm not strapping any of it directly to my engine, so why should they go so overkill?

The hottest anyone's interior will get will be under 200 degrees
Old 06-23-2007, 05:41 PM
  #89  
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
 
EmperorJJ1's Avatar
 
Join Date: 09-03-06
Location: OR
Posts: 19,438
Received 31 Likes on 29 Posts
I honestly want to take the temp of the inside of my outer panel to see the temp it gets... i got a feeling it gets pretty damn hot (not 500 degrees thou)
Old 06-23-2007, 06:23 PM
  #90  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Bumpin Balt's Avatar
 
Join Date: 02-22-07
Location: Elmira,ON, Canada
Posts: 3,673
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Talking Midbass drivers

Originally Posted by EmperorJJ1
nice what midbass u looking at?
I'm looking at the Kicker SSMB8's. I already bought the amp for them on eBay. It's an Alpine MRD-M300. It's a mono sub amp but it has amazing tuning features like adjustable sub-sonic filter and low pass filter among many others. This should allow me to cut out the really low frequencies so I get tight, clean midbass. The mounting depth is only 2.25" so they should work in the flat spot on the bottom of the door panel towards the rear. I wonder what they would sound like if I put a small port closer to the front of the door panel? Would they sound sloppy or just nice and mellow? My instincts tell me to make a sealed enclosure out of fiberglass inside the door panel. Does anybody have any ideas or expertise on this subject, I'm new to midbass!

Last edited by Bumpin Balt; 06-23-2007 at 06:50 PM.
Old 06-24-2007, 02:42 AM
  #91  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Bumpin Balt's Avatar
 
Join Date: 02-22-07
Location: Elmira,ON, Canada
Posts: 3,673
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Talking Custom carpeted MDF floorboard

I forgot to put these in my earlier post. These are pictures of the carpeted 5/8" MDF board that I made. I did this for 5 reasons: (1)To reduce exhaust noise entering through the trunk floor. (2)Because the stock board had a hump where the spare tire is. (3)So I could run my 4 gauge power wires under it (it has 5/8" blocks under it to raise it up). (4)To give me a solid surface to mount my line driver and capacitor. (5) To prevent the loss of bass pressure to the soft stock carpeting and spare tire well. The MDF is in 3 pcs. but the carpeting is 1 pc. The 2 sides fold up to allow passage in or out of the trunk. The sides are screwed down to blocks underneath to tie it all together. I traced the stock carpet onto the MDF and cut the new carpet a 1/2" wider all the way around for a nice tight fit.

Old 06-24-2007, 06:00 AM
  #92  
Senior Member
 
xspyder85x's Avatar
 
Join Date: 06-08-06
Location: Greenwood, SC
Posts: 4,282
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
i did the same thing but used a lighter wood for wieght purposes.
Old 06-25-2007, 03:40 PM
  #93  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Bumpin Balt's Avatar
 
Join Date: 02-22-07
Location: Elmira,ON, Canada
Posts: 3,673
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I just bought a pair of these for my door panels! They should add some extra kick up front! I'm going to feed them 150watts RMS each. http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...4231&rd=1&rd=1
Old 06-26-2007, 02:36 PM
  #94  
Senior Member
 
widebody_balt_ss's Avatar
 
Join Date: 03-13-07
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,731
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I have never messed with 8 inch woofers. im assuming you would not replace the front speakers with them though right? you will add them to your existing ones?
Old 06-26-2007, 04:36 PM
  #95  
New Member
 
mesatrin's Avatar
 
Join Date: 05-24-06
Location: Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 164
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I have been in one of the new mustangs and they have 8" woofers in each door along with the 6.5's if I am not mistaken and for a factory system it sounded good. It sounded as good as a set up with entry level after market stuff.
Old 06-26-2007, 05:48 PM
  #96  
Senior Member
 
widebody_balt_ss's Avatar
 
Join Date: 03-13-07
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,731
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
hummm. i dont know if we have enough room for 6 1/2 pluss 8 inch woofers without major fiberglass work or something.
Old 06-26-2007, 10:10 PM
  #97  
Senior Member
 
b_faulk75's Avatar
 
Join Date: 12-21-06
Location: WV
Posts: 1,618
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
My system so far

Ok here are some current shots of my trunk, Dynamat, everywhere. 1/0 cable back to front, dual kinetic hc 1400 powercells, 15 farad alumapro capacitor. Limited edition Rockford fosgate power 1000 amp, 3/4 mdf floor, amp rack, and battery box. Eclipse deck, not pictured. Also currently have fusion audio speakers in the doors and eclipse deck speakers, plan to change both, but out of funding right now... LOL Tell me what you think so far... Sorry these are just some random pics, i will post more as soon as i can.
Old 06-26-2007, 10:34 PM
  #98  
Senior Member
 
HackAbuse's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-16-05
Location: Central NY
Posts: 11,137
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
What do I think?

I think I'm going to steal your car..
Old 06-26-2007, 10:42 PM
  #99  
Senior Member
 
b_faulk75's Avatar
 
Join Date: 12-21-06
Location: WV
Posts: 1,618
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by HackAbuse
What do I think?

I think I'm going to steal your car..
Old 06-27-2007, 12:13 AM
  #100  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Bumpin Balt's Avatar
 
Join Date: 02-22-07
Location: Elmira,ON, Canada
Posts: 3,673
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by widebody_balt_ss
hummm. i dont know if we have enough room for 6 1/2 pluss 8 inch woofers without major fiberglass work or something.
I think I'm going to put them on the flat spot at the bottom of the door panel closer to the rear of the car. They're only 2.25" deep, and the door panel is a little over 2.5" deep, so it should work. I will probably put a 2"-3" port tube closer to the front of the door panel to let it breathe and move some of the sound further forward. I might try them without port tubes first to see how they sound. If they sound decent, I won't bother hacking a hole in the door panel for a port tube!


Quick Reply: Sound Quality Systems!!! (pics)



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:49 PM.