Sound Quality Systems!!! (pics)
#76
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#77
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Location: Missouri
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right the hatch helps a ton (had a maro) but i JL w-7s are very nice sq woofers. IMO the price isnt worth it but if you got a deal or a hook up JL is a great choice. Only thing is ive herd they are very picky with being over powered from some peeps and from others ive herd that that was just a BS rumor so think what you will and do what you do
#79
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The B-Quiet actually helped alot witht he trunk, alot less rattles, if any from the deck lid and everything, as well as a little less road noise...once i get the rest done it should really help. I too ordered 100 sq Ft. and it seems like plenty.
#84
Here's my system...so far! I have a couple more things to add (JL 6w3v3 subs somewhere close to the front of the vehicle. The subs don't come out until July, but I just bought the amp for them on eBay. It's an Alpine MRD-M300 to match my other amps. That black "thing" with the hole in it is a fibreglass pod lined with Dynamat. It helps improve midbass clarity and reduces the sound coming off the back of the speaker. It also makes the rear deck heavier so it vibrates less! I used Fatmat on the top of the rear deck also. (It's actually not very "fat") I prefer Dynamat Extreme, I used that on the trunk lid and on the floor. I also used a fibreglass "pod" behind the 6.5" mids. I can barely feel any vibration in the doors when my arm is on the armrest! I used Fatmat in the doors also. I use my 60GB iPod filled with almost 1900 songs in Apple lossless format and use a dock to RCA connecting cable for clean signal transfer to my "old school" Alpine head unit. My sub signal runs directly from my head unit to an Audio Control "Overdrive" line driver to send a nice clean, powerful signal to my sub. I highly recommend using a line driver, it really improves the clarity and overall output of your sub(s). I use the Kicker 9 band EQ to fine tune my mids and highs only. That way, I can boost or cut the low frequencies going to my mids without affecting my sub bass level. Wow! I'm pretty much writing a book here! If you have any questions, post 'em here. I hope this helps some "newbies" with their system building. I learned a bit to much from trial and error! That means I wasted a lot of money! I wish I had internet access about 6 years ago, it's amazing what you can learn on these forums! Oh yeah! The amps are an Alpine MRV-F340 4-channel for the Infinity "Kappa" 2 0hm mids and highs, and an Alpine MRD-M500 powers the JL 10W6V2 in JL's patented "High Output" box. I love this system! It plays clean and undistorted as loud as I can handle!
What did you do with the tweeters in the A-Pillars, did you disconnect them?
Also, your door 6.5's and tweeters are components I assume?
#86
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I love what you did with your door setup. I have also heard that keeping the tweeters close to the 6.5 mids are better. I have a couple of questions though:
What did you do with the tweeters in the A-Pillars, did you disconnect them?
Also, your door 6.5's and tweeters are components I assume?
What did you do with the tweeters in the A-Pillars, did you disconnect them?
Also, your door 6.5's and tweeters are components I assume?
#88
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The hottest anyone's interior will get will be under 200 degrees
#90
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Midbass drivers
I'm looking at the Kicker SSMB8's. I already bought the amp for them on eBay. It's an Alpine MRD-M300. It's a mono sub amp but it has amazing tuning features like adjustable sub-sonic filter and low pass filter among many others. This should allow me to cut out the really low frequencies so I get tight, clean midbass. The mounting depth is only 2.25" so they should work in the flat spot on the bottom of the door panel towards the rear. I wonder what they would sound like if I put a small port closer to the front of the door panel? Would they sound sloppy or just nice and mellow? My instincts tell me to make a sealed enclosure out of fiberglass inside the door panel. Does anybody have any ideas or expertise on this subject, I'm new to midbass!
Last edited by Bumpin Balt; 06-23-2007 at 06:50 PM.
#91
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Custom carpeted MDF floorboard
I forgot to put these in my earlier post. These are pictures of the carpeted 5/8" MDF board that I made. I did this for 5 reasons: (1)To reduce exhaust noise entering through the trunk floor. (2)Because the stock board had a hump where the spare tire is. (3)So I could run my 4 gauge power wires under it (it has 5/8" blocks under it to raise it up). (4)To give me a solid surface to mount my line driver and capacitor. (5) To prevent the loss of bass pressure to the soft stock carpeting and spare tire well. The MDF is in 3 pcs. but the carpeting is 1 pc. The 2 sides fold up to allow passage in or out of the trunk. The sides are screwed down to blocks underneath to tie it all together. I traced the stock carpet onto the MDF and cut the new carpet a 1/2" wider all the way around for a nice tight fit.
#93
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I just bought a pair of these for my door panels! They should add some extra kick up front! I'm going to feed them 150watts RMS each. http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...4231&rd=1&rd=1
#95
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I have been in one of the new mustangs and they have 8" woofers in each door along with the 6.5's if I am not mistaken and for a factory system it sounded good. It sounded as good as a set up with entry level after market stuff.
#97
My system so far
Ok here are some current shots of my trunk, Dynamat, everywhere. 1/0 cable back to front, dual kinetic hc 1400 powercells, 15 farad alumapro capacitor. Limited edition Rockford fosgate power 1000 amp, 3/4 mdf floor, amp rack, and battery box. Eclipse deck, not pictured. Also currently have fusion audio speakers in the doors and eclipse deck speakers, plan to change both, but out of funding right now... LOL Tell me what you think so far... Sorry these are just some random pics, i will post more as soon as i can.
#100
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I think I'm going to put them on the flat spot at the bottom of the door panel closer to the rear of the car. They're only 2.25" deep, and the door panel is a little over 2.5" deep, so it should work. I will probably put a 2"-3" port tube closer to the front of the door panel to let it breathe and move some of the sound further forward. I might try them without port tubes first to see how they sound. If they sound decent, I won't bother hacking a hole in the door panel for a port tube!