Stock 10 in vs. single 12 inch
#1
Stock 10 in vs. single 12 inch
Hey I was wondering if there would be a big difference from just switching from the stock 10 inch to a single 12 inch I found on craigslist. There should be, I am only asking because I know a few people that have two 12s in their trucks, so they have shallow boxes. But they dont hit hard at all IMO. I'll post the link and any thoughts would be great.
12"inch KENWOOD sub
12"inch KENWOOD sub
#2
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you know your going to need an amp for that right? and cables?
by the looks of that sub, it looks pretty old, maybe 200 RMS. yes there will be a huge difference depending on the amp. honestly thought if you want a good set up, ditch that crappy looking one and get a new one, there are cheap and good ones on ebay. with a good amp and atleast 8 gauge wire.
i have a 12" kenwood in mine and that **** hits super hard for it being one sub. but i have a 2000 watt amp pushing it.
by the looks of that sub, it looks pretty old, maybe 200 RMS. yes there will be a huge difference depending on the amp. honestly thought if you want a good set up, ditch that crappy looking one and get a new one, there are cheap and good ones on ebay. with a good amp and atleast 8 gauge wire.
i have a 12" kenwood in mine and that **** hits super hard for it being one sub. but i have a 2000 watt amp pushing it.
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Kenwood KFC-W3013PS 12" 1200 Watt 4 Ohm Performance Car Audio Subwoofer Sub | eBay
thats the one i have, hits hard as hell. doesnt disturb at all (as long as you dont over do it)
trust me, this sub with a nice amp, is all you need. i can make a video of mine so you can see it.
thats the one i have, hits hard as hell. doesnt disturb at all (as long as you dont over do it)
trust me, this sub with a nice amp, is all you need. i can make a video of mine so you can see it.
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Sorry to thread jack. I don't know a lot about stereos (all I have ever done is wire up a head unit in my ex gfs car) but how do you know which amp to get for a sub? Idk what to look at lol.
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well this is how i look at it. i would rather have my amp at a RMS level that can easily handle the sub(s) RMS wattage. for example. i have a 400-500RMS watt sub. now i dont want an amp that pushes that struggling. i want one that can easily push that and wont even think about overheating. so i went with a 2000 watt 2-channel lanzar amp. not the best brand, but at 2000 watts bridged, it can hit maybe 40% RMS. so about 800 RMS easily
so...
my sub has the potential of lets say 500 RMS, and my amp can hit 800 RMS, in other words, i wont have to worry about the amp ever overheating or going into protection mode.
hopefully you understood a little lol.
y u no use sub i sold you??
so...
my sub has the potential of lets say 500 RMS, and my amp can hit 800 RMS, in other words, i wont have to worry about the amp ever overheating or going into protection mode.
hopefully you understood a little lol.
y u no use sub i sold you??
Last edited by 07LSJ; 03-27-2012 at 05:40 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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the only way to damage the sub is if ur trying to make it pound more than what its designed for. yes, i can blow my sub up with the amp i have, but... i have the bass boost on the amp off and in the equalizer of the car, i have the bass all the way down so im just giving the sub enough for it to pound at a good level. understand?
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the only way to damage the sub is if ur trying to make it pound more than what its designed for. yes, i can blow my sub up with the amp i have, but... i have the bass boost on the amp off and in the equalizer of the car, i have the bass all the way down so im just giving the sub enough for it to pound at a good level. understand?
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Yeah I have had my car for a little over 4 years and it was cool for the first two and now I'm like dang I want more lol. And it doesn't help that I rode in a friends explorer that has two 15's. He also has an integra that has 1 15 in it and the whole damn car rattles. It's insane.
#24
[QUOTE=07LSJ;6417285]well this is how i look at it. i would rather have my amp at a RMS level that can easily handle the sub(s) RMS wattage. for example. i have a 400-500RMS watt sub. now i dont want an amp that pushes that struggling. i want one that can easily push that and wont even think about overheating. so i went with a 2000 watt 2-channel lanzar amp. not the best brand, but at 2000 watts bridged, it can hit maybe 40% RMS. so about 800 RMS easily
so...
my sub has the potential of lets say 500 RMS, and my amp can hit 800 RMS, in other words, i wont have to worry about the amp ever overheating or going into protection mode.
hopefully you understood a little lol.
I agree with having the extra power there for a couple of reasons. "not the best brand" I've learned you get what you pay for within reason, everyone has there own budget but try to get the best thing you can. Also running an amp bridged is more stress on the amp and power supply.
I have a good amount of experience with this kind of stuff so let me know if i can help any.
so...
my sub has the potential of lets say 500 RMS, and my amp can hit 800 RMS, in other words, i wont have to worry about the amp ever overheating or going into protection mode.
hopefully you understood a little lol.
I agree with having the extra power there for a couple of reasons. "not the best brand" I've learned you get what you pay for within reason, everyone has there own budget but try to get the best thing you can. Also running an amp bridged is more stress on the amp and power supply.
I have a good amount of experience with this kind of stuff so let me know if i can help any.
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I agree with having the extra power there for a couple of reasons. "not the best brand" I've learned you get what you pay for within reason, everyone has there own budget but try to get the best thing you can. Also running an amp bridged is more stress on the amp and power supply.
I have a good amount of experience with this kind of stuff so let me know if i can help any.