Sevensix9

Here's the thing guys, when buying a sub and amp combo, don't get fooled by the max watt hype, rms and efficiency is what counts, I've seen Sony amps, which are over priced for their efficiency or lack of... I had one which was 1000w max with a rms of 300w, total garbage, but it was free.

Also when purchasing your sub and amp make sure you get the right ohms, I've done installs for people with mismatched equip and they wonder why their new stereo sucks compared to stock.

A duel voice coil 4ohm sub can be wired down to a 2ohm load, 2ohm mono block class d amps are in abundance, and on CL for cheap. You dont need a amp with a lot of features, just knowledge of how to work the gains. I've got 12yrs of car stereo experience, if you've got a question let me know, or if you need cheap equipment shoot me a msg

-Alex

FasterIsBetter

Also, the good thing about spending more on an amp is if its a more efficient amp, it takes way less current than the cheaper amps. I spent $450 on my MRD-M1005 years ago and its still way more efficient than most amps out there. Its rated for 1000 watts RMS and will give you every bit of that and more without putting too big of a hurting on your charging system. An upgraded battery like Optima and you're in the good.