Stock Sub Replaced with Polk MM1040
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Stock Sub Replaced with Polk MM1040
I am currently in the process of replacing the stock sub with a Polk MM1040. I am taking pictures along the way for everyone to see I am also using the "How to" thread about this to help out. So far I have done/will have to do a few things differently.
For the hole on the back I plugged with a 1/2" plug and used caulk to seal it.
The sub itself does not fit. It hits the bottom of the box and has about 1/4" to go and the bolt pattern is different, therefore I am in the process of finding a 3/4" MDF Ring to space it out.
I'll be updating as I go
For the hole on the back I plugged with a 1/2" plug and used caulk to seal it.
The sub itself does not fit. It hits the bottom of the box and has about 1/4" to go and the bolt pattern is different, therefore I am in the process of finding a 3/4" MDF Ring to space it out.
I'll be updating as I go
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It's a 10" sub, and it would fit in the box if it was a 1/2" inch shorter. The magnet hits the back of the box.
The optimal sealed box size should be 0.66 cu/ft and the stock box is 0.6 cu/ft.
I will be using an Alpine MRX-X50 amp.
The optimal sealed box size should be 0.66 cu/ft and the stock box is 0.6 cu/ft.
I will be using an Alpine MRX-X50 amp.
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The amp and wiring kit came today! Started on the wiring today since I am waiting for a 3/4" MDF ring to mount the sub. Tomorrow I will install the amp in my car and run all the wires.
#7
Looks great so far!! If you can't find that MDF ring slap her in there inverted till one shows up
-Jamie M.
-Jamie M.
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All Finished!!!!!!! I ended up splitting the MDF ring I ordered online and did not want to wait any longer so I went to Home Depot and bout a slab of 3/4 MDF and made my own and went at it again. Took my a little over 3 hours to make and install the ring and sub. I have 4 screws that hold the ring to the box and a bead of silicone. The subwoofer sounds awesome! I'm going to wait a little bit but I plan on painting the sub box and ring to match my car and the Pioneer letters white. The amp does not need a remote turn on wire, it has signal sensing and it works great. There is a lot of room to make it louder but the speakers can't keep up. I would recommend this as an upgrade!
#9
Looks great! Nice work on the ring Did you try and fit the stock Pioneer speaker grill over the new sub (to protect it when you throw junk in the trunk)? Yeah, paint that MDF ring and it'll look all factory!!
Got a good camera for some videos??!
-Jamie M.
Got a good camera for some videos??!
-Jamie M.
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I only have my phone EVO to take pictures and videos. It's a different bolt pattern for the grill that's why I didn't use it. Polk makes a grill that fits the sub I might buy that. but for now im just glad to have sound.
#14
HAHA! I have the same exact sub and amp, **** pounds!
just installed mine last week. to make it fit in the box, i just dremeled off the plug in the back of the box and then sealed it with a bunch of tape essentially. it works, completely leak free. didn't use silicone either, just the supplied gasket that came with the pold sub!
but kudos to you!
what do you have the amp adjustments set at?
just installed mine last week. to make it fit in the box, i just dremeled off the plug in the back of the box and then sealed it with a bunch of tape essentially. it works, completely leak free. didn't use silicone either, just the supplied gasket that came with the pold sub!
but kudos to you!
what do you have the amp adjustments set at?
Last edited by riceburner; 03-08-2012 at 03:32 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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LPF - 100Hz
Subsonic - 25Hz
Bass Boost - +4db
Gain - +0.5V
There is a lot of room to turn it up and the sub can handle it, but I don't like my sunroof rattling to much. It packs a lot of punch!
#17
For Mr. base cobalt guy. You can do the exact same setup as JS but instead of attaching the amp harness to the subwoofer wires, you would attach the amp harness to the two rear deck speaker wires!
Let me know if you need more help than that
-Jamie M.
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Vids man, WHERE ARE THE VIDS!?
For Mr. base cobalt guy. You can do the exact same setup as JS but instead of attaching the amp harness to the subwoofer wires, you would attach the amp harness to the two rear deck speaker wires!
Let me know if you need more help than that
-Jamie M.
For Mr. base cobalt guy. You can do the exact same setup as JS but instead of attaching the amp harness to the subwoofer wires, you would attach the amp harness to the two rear deck speaker wires!
Let me know if you need more help than that
-Jamie M.
#20
-Jamie M.
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Here is a link to the video I took. It is weird how the display on the radio shakes when the bass hits hard. I was hoping it would show on the video I took but it doesn't.
Also there is a very small leak I need to seal.
M2U00073.mp4 video by denspedale - Photobucket
Also there is a very small leak I need to seal.
M2U00073.mp4 video by denspedale - Photobucket
#23
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Here is a link to the video I took. It is weird how the display on the radio shakes when the bass hits hard. I was hoping it would show on the video I took but it doesn't.
Also there is a very small leak I need to seal.
M2U00073.mp4 video by denspedale - Photobucket
Also there is a very small leak I need to seal.
M2U00073.mp4 video by denspedale - Photobucket
#25
In this pic:
You can see I used this stuff: http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...sket_Maker.htm
And when I want it black I use this stuff: http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...sket_maker.htm
I love the Permatex stuff because it's super adhesive and never completely hardens and stays very flexible. Also easy to remove if you need to swap out the driver, etc.
-Jamie M.