sub problem
#8
I'm not sure but I wouldn't be surprised if the sub 8 or 10 in I don't remember clearly doesn't have an internal fuse. Well actually that would be really damn cool if it did. As long as you regulate the power you are driving it with I would think it would be fine. Still 750 watts for that sub seems a bit much no?
#9
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iTrader: (5)
if the "sub" cuts out its usually your amp not the sub itself. The sub is rather simple seeing it plays whatever its feed and the only way to blow it is to either termally burn the coil or mechaniclly break something. The only thing the sub may have mechaniclly broken that might cause it to "cut out" would probably be somethign with the tinsil leads. But it would have to be very rare seeing the connection would need to be there at low power low excursion and not at high power high excursion (possible but doubtful)
Now the best bet is your sub is wired at to low of a ohm resistance for your amp. Usually amps will be fine (or better at least) wired at too low of a impendance with lower power but once the power is cranking and more so the heat begins to rise the amp doesnt like it and shuts off causing it to "cut out"
oh and grimlakin there is no point for the sub to have a fuse. If such a thing happened it might prevent say thermal problems but mechanical failures would still be possible. A prime example of this is my sub the 05 XXX. Ive been told the motor itself can take quite a bit of power and sound so clean while doing it I will be unaware of distortion and i wont have any sign that i shouldnt crank the power/volume. Since my amp is 3kw and the sub is rated for 1600w ive been told that what will happen if i go overboard and blow the thing is the surround will just rip off the basket. hopefully the spider and tinsil leads and all that will stay connected so the cone doesnt fly at the seats.
Now the best bet is your sub is wired at to low of a ohm resistance for your amp. Usually amps will be fine (or better at least) wired at too low of a impendance with lower power but once the power is cranking and more so the heat begins to rise the amp doesnt like it and shuts off causing it to "cut out"
oh and grimlakin there is no point for the sub to have a fuse. If such a thing happened it might prevent say thermal problems but mechanical failures would still be possible. A prime example of this is my sub the 05 XXX. Ive been told the motor itself can take quite a bit of power and sound so clean while doing it I will be unaware of distortion and i wont have any sign that i shouldnt crank the power/volume. Since my amp is 3kw and the sub is rated for 1600w ive been told that what will happen if i go overboard and blow the thing is the surround will just rip off the basket. hopefully the spider and tinsil leads and all that will stay connected so the cone doesnt fly at the seats.
#10
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i dont know what going on with it but its not the amp
because it still has power even when the sub cuts out
it sounds good and really pounds until the i turn up the radio
a little past half way then the sub just stops working and when i
turn the radio down a little the sub starts working
because it still has power even when the sub cuts out
it sounds good and really pounds until the i turn up the radio
a little past half way then the sub just stops working and when i
turn the radio down a little the sub starts working
#11
Senior Member
If you've already got an amp wired up to the stock sub, why not just go one step further and get a new box and sub? Less headaches, better sound imo. If you're not looking for an amazing system and want something low budget, just go to bestbuy and buy a cheap bassworx box and a $150-300 sub.
#12
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i dont know what going on with it but its not the amp
because it still has power even when the sub cuts out
it sounds good and really pounds until the i turn up the radio
a little past half way then the sub just stops working and when i
turn the radio down a little the sub starts working
because it still has power even when the sub cuts out
it sounds good and really pounds until the i turn up the radio
a little past half way then the sub just stops working and when i
turn the radio down a little the sub starts working
#13
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That's way too much power for the factoy sub! Are you running that amp just to the sub or is it a 5 chnnel amp and is also running your other speakers? The speakers in the car is really only set up to handle the factory power output. If you are wanting more power then you really should upgrade everything otherwise your going to blow what you already have.
#15
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the amp is just going to the sub and the amp is turned down
but even if i the amp is turned up or down it still cuts out if when
i turn the radio up. whats the rms on the stock sub?
but even if i the amp is turned up or down it still cuts out if when
i turn the radio up. whats the rms on the stock sub?
#16
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Do u have your gain turned down on the amp?
This does sound like an amp problem not a sub. If you over power a sub you jsut blow it. Whe nit goes off does anothe rligh come on your amp? Like a protection led
This does sound like an amp problem not a sub. If you over power a sub you jsut blow it. Whe nit goes off does anothe rligh come on your amp? Like a protection led
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it still could be shorting out.
It might not have anothe rindicator light.
Do you have a dbass knob, or sub controls on the radio? Bass boost can cause problems..
Where did you ground the amp?
It might not have anothe rindicator light.
Do you have a dbass knob, or sub controls on the radio? Bass boost can cause problems..
Where did you ground the amp?