sub replacement and amp install question
03-21-2008, 10:39 PM
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sub replacement and amp install question
looking to replace the stock pioneer sub with an elemental designs sq10 with a 3" mounting depth. would be run off an amp i already have, an orion 1200d.
the eD sq10 takes 250-500wrms, i could get a 4ohm one so my amp would then give it ~400-450wrms. if the stock box is sealed that'd be not bad, on the high side but it'd be ok if i dial the gains down... i wouldn't have to sacrifice trunk space which is ideal.
awesome... the box is 18 liters, aka .63ft^3 minus .03ft^3 sub displacement = .60ft^3 which is exactly which eD recommends (large box, which i like). life is wonderful.
my questions; after i install the amp, what is the best source for a remote turn on wire? i do NOT want to have a switch - i do NOT want it to be on via tapping into the wipers or sunroof like i've read on some posts in my research, leaving the amp on whenever my key is in - I WANT it to turn on and off with the stereo.
this question is tied into my question for the input source, I was looking into hi to low adapters aka line output converters. some even have remote turn on wires as well. what is the max input for these units? i've seen some up to 75w, others saying 15w max input, and most not stating (only checked out about 6 or so online while writing this post) so i'm uneasy about tapping into the sub high output line right at the harness right before the box.
*Going to test the amp with a 10hz - 100hz 0db sine wave sweep: going to play it at a level that i hear distortion, then turn it back until i hear none... i have a great ear (and no osciliscope because they are expensive!) and test the output* will also see about that box.*
if i use a hi to low adapter with the remote turn on, some devices claim it takes only 1 sec to initiate the remote turn on wire, which would then turn my amp on. would this result in my music coming out of my speakers without bass, then 1 sec later the bass amp turns on, THEN another 1 second or so until the amp starts pumpin out the sound? that just sounds cheesy to me, wouldn't sound integrated. or would it? since the stereo turns on and usually doesn't start playing music instantly... confused.
i have a lot of experience with car stereo, and some with hi to low adapters, but not with hi to low adapters with remote turn-ons. i've used them in friends cars that weren't as critical as i am being but not these. i very much enjoy the stock pioneer setup and since it's a new car i don't wanna start ripping out panels/dash/rear seats and such, hence why the trunk-only install is so appealing. with the above info, i just need to know about the right place to get a proper remote turn on voltage so it is fully integrated into the stock stereo, and a recommended hi to low adapter to use (hopefully my test will answer this for me)
the rest is cake
thanks for any/all help!
edit: checked the outputs going to the sub... after doing the math each voice coil can get up to about 60-65 watts before starting to sound a bit funky, so about 120w goin to this sub.
is that too much for a ho to low adapter? for the one with the 75 watt max input is the 60-65 watt input for each channel on the adapter ok? or does 75 represent the total input for the adapter with both or all channes combined? (b4 you say i'm crazy, yes bass is also stereo; sub bass amps just pump it out in mono)
many people on this forum use hi to low adapters so i assume it's ok... just want to know what will work for the best sound. also, any recommended hi to low adapters would be appreciated. thanks!
heh, this edit is also an unplanned bump. i'm anxious for a response!
the eD sq10 takes 250-500wrms, i could get a 4ohm one so my amp would then give it ~400-450wrms. if the stock box is sealed that'd be not bad, on the high side but it'd be ok if i dial the gains down... i wouldn't have to sacrifice trunk space which is ideal.
awesome... the box is 18 liters, aka .63ft^3 minus .03ft^3 sub displacement = .60ft^3 which is exactly which eD recommends (large box, which i like). life is wonderful.
my questions; after i install the amp, what is the best source for a remote turn on wire? i do NOT want to have a switch - i do NOT want it to be on via tapping into the wipers or sunroof like i've read on some posts in my research, leaving the amp on whenever my key is in - I WANT it to turn on and off with the stereo.
this question is tied into my question for the input source, I was looking into hi to low adapters aka line output converters. some even have remote turn on wires as well. what is the max input for these units? i've seen some up to 75w, others saying 15w max input, and most not stating (only checked out about 6 or so online while writing this post) so i'm uneasy about tapping into the sub high output line right at the harness right before the box.
*Going to test the amp with a 10hz - 100hz 0db sine wave sweep: going to play it at a level that i hear distortion, then turn it back until i hear none... i have a great ear (and no osciliscope because they are expensive!) and test the output* will also see about that box.*
if i use a hi to low adapter with the remote turn on, some devices claim it takes only 1 sec to initiate the remote turn on wire, which would then turn my amp on. would this result in my music coming out of my speakers without bass, then 1 sec later the bass amp turns on, THEN another 1 second or so until the amp starts pumpin out the sound? that just sounds cheesy to me, wouldn't sound integrated. or would it? since the stereo turns on and usually doesn't start playing music instantly... confused.
i have a lot of experience with car stereo, and some with hi to low adapters, but not with hi to low adapters with remote turn-ons. i've used them in friends cars that weren't as critical as i am being but not these. i very much enjoy the stock pioneer setup and since it's a new car i don't wanna start ripping out panels/dash/rear seats and such, hence why the trunk-only install is so appealing. with the above info, i just need to know about the right place to get a proper remote turn on voltage so it is fully integrated into the stock stereo, and a recommended hi to low adapter to use (hopefully my test will answer this for me)
the rest is cake
thanks for any/all help!
edit: checked the outputs going to the sub... after doing the math each voice coil can get up to about 60-65 watts before starting to sound a bit funky, so about 120w goin to this sub.
is that too much for a ho to low adapter? for the one with the 75 watt max input is the 60-65 watt input for each channel on the adapter ok? or does 75 represent the total input for the adapter with both or all channes combined? (b4 you say i'm crazy, yes bass is also stereo; sub bass amps just pump it out in mono)
many people on this forum use hi to low adapters so i assume it's ok... just want to know what will work for the best sound. also, any recommended hi to low adapters would be appreciated. thanks!
heh, this edit is also an unplanned bump. i'm anxious for a response!
Last edited by SprChrg4Life; 03-21-2008 at 10:39 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
03-21-2008, 11:09 PM
#2
The Stock amp has a remote turn on wire. I believe its the pink one, but check the sticky to be sure. If you are dead set on the amp turning off with the seck then tap into it.
The Jl Audio Cleansweep, MTX REQ, and I think fosgate makes a similar one, are all line output converters that can handle higher wattage, They boost output to (depending on which one) 5-8volts. The jl model even has a remote sub control to allow you to control the volume of the amp (seeing as you could not do this with the stock deck).
Personaly I would go with an aftermarket HU, but thats me.
As for the Box, oh guy don't use the stock one, its never going to sound the way you want it to . If your as "****" about car audio as you claim then I should remind you not to half ass it, go hard or go home. The box is so important to the system to leave it in the hands of the plastic imposter they gave us from the factory. If you cant do it yourself then have on made out of MDF or Fiberglass that will fit into the same location, then you still keep your trunk space.
There is a sticky at the top of the Audio Forum check it out, all the info you need should be there
The Jl Audio Cleansweep, MTX REQ, and I think fosgate makes a similar one, are all line output converters that can handle higher wattage, They boost output to (depending on which one) 5-8volts. The jl model even has a remote sub control to allow you to control the volume of the amp (seeing as you could not do this with the stock deck).
Personaly I would go with an aftermarket HU, but thats me.
As for the Box, oh guy don't use the stock one, its never going to sound the way you want it to . If your as "****" about car audio as you claim then I should remind you not to half ass it, go hard or go home. The box is so important to the system to leave it in the hands of the plastic imposter they gave us from the factory. If you cant do it yourself then have on made out of MDF or Fiberglass that will fit into the same location, then you still keep your trunk space.
There is a sticky at the top of the Audio Forum check it out, all the info you need should be there
03-22-2008, 02:41 AM
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wow, i totally missed that sticky. good info, thanks for the heads up.
i'm reallllyyy interested in making a fiberglass enclosure for the sub, but a temporary sub fix would suffice via swapping the sub. i never thought of that... the box is made of plastic lol! it'll flex like crazy with a higher wattage application, good point.
i figured the amp had a turn-on, it'd have to, i'll check the stick for that pink wire. i guess i will have to run a wire afterall. yea, dead set on a factory integrated amp turn-on, so running 1 wire won't be so bad just g2 be careful taking the side door foot panels off. the rest like the back seat is easy, i plan on mounting the amp to the back of the seat.
remote sub level control, on a hi to low adapter?! sweet! i haven't kept up with the new technology i guess heh. thanks for the very useful input spun, much appreciated!!
what if, and i know this sounds crazy... i put say 4 layers of fiberglass on the original plastic box? it'd be much sturdier and i wouldn't have to fabricate my own box. i could, but that'd be easier.
i'm reallllyyy interested in making a fiberglass enclosure for the sub, but a temporary sub fix would suffice via swapping the sub. i never thought of that... the box is made of plastic lol! it'll flex like crazy with a higher wattage application, good point.
i figured the amp had a turn-on, it'd have to, i'll check the stick for that pink wire. i guess i will have to run a wire afterall. yea, dead set on a factory integrated amp turn-on, so running 1 wire won't be so bad just g2 be careful taking the side door foot panels off. the rest like the back seat is easy, i plan on mounting the amp to the back of the seat.
remote sub level control, on a hi to low adapter?! sweet! i haven't kept up with the new technology i guess heh. thanks for the very useful input spun, much appreciated!!
what if, and i know this sounds crazy... i put say 4 layers of fiberglass on the original plastic box? it'd be much sturdier and i wouldn't have to fabricate my own box. i could, but that'd be easier.
Last edited by SprChrg4Life; 03-22-2008 at 02:41 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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