riceburner

iTrader: (66)

Thanks for the opinion on the dynamat. Im really as a crossroads betweendealing with rattles or weighing down the car. But heck i bet even ducttape and carboard would fix a lot of my bass/bumpy road rattles

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

I had a dash rattle, an a-pillar rattle by my gauges and a rattle in my glove compartment. I took them all apart and padded them with 1 inch wide door sealant tape in the areas that were vibrating against each other. Got rid of a lot of little things and that didnt even require dynomat. The steel body panels would need something heavier if they are rattling, that is when I would utilize a better product in the doors or in the trunk area.

riceburner

iTrader: (66)

Thanks man. I plan to use a variety of things in the end to rid myself of those very same rattles. All to keep it nice but not heavy. Anyway back on topic!

mhend5

iTrader: (2)

Get my setup installed, I'll upload some pictures of the workings. OP you will be interested in my amp location & Mounting. Anyway, nice idea on the extended enclosure.

Anyone have any ideas to prevent the box from moving? I have tightened down the enclosure mounting screws way harder than needed, and my sub still makes the enclosure vibrate to all hell. Maybe I need some interior bracing and bracing between the car and enclosure, because It vibrates on more than just the surface the sub is mounted on, the whole damn enclosure moves close to a quarter of an inch. This sub is too brutal for the stock plastic

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

Yeah I have plans to reinforce it with MDF and bracing internally from front to back. Side to side the box is very thick and held together with screws. Its the front and rear panels that need bracing.

What sub did you run? Please post up pics. Thanks for the advice on the box movement. Now that I think about it my rear bump plates extending into the back of the box will help alleviate a lot of flex in the stock location with the stock 4 bolts. Did you use the stock bolt locations? They are plenty sturdy I feel.

mhend5

iTrader: (2)

I'll snap some photos tomorrow and post them up. I used the stock location bolts, and they are VERY tight, but the box still moves like crazy. I'm thinking of fiberglassing the enclosure to give it some added strength, but I'm at a loss to stop the box vibration.

I'm running the Skar VVX-10, mated to an audiopipe 1500d at 2 ohms, on the stock deck.

Hopefully you won't run into the same problem!

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

where are the pics?

mhend5

iTrader: (2)

Ask and Yee shall receive.

I chose to mount the amp here and have yet to relocate the trunk popper. You could always move it further back into the trunk, as mine unfortunately covers the trunk light..

I have yet to clean up the wires entering the amp, so don't judge me there!






Fabbed up some L-Brakets to the amp via the long black nuts, and a larger diameter bolt to the trunk lid. VERY sturdy, doesn't move the slightest surprisingly. The only way the amp moves is if the trunk lid bends, have yet to figure out how to strengthen that.




I don't have the Distribution block shown currently, but here is the 0 gauge, which runs to a distro block reducing to multiple 4 gauge leads, which run into the amp, and I have extras in case I would like to add something in the future.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

nice. If you have any extra 1/0 i would upgrade the battery ground. Buy a replacement batt terminal cut off the stock one and Utilize the stock 4g ground as well as the new 1/0 ground in a different location

cmiller8006

iTrader: (3)

How you like the skar subs? I was just looking at a like new 1000 rms watt amp from them, they priced it down to 200 bucks

mhend5

iTrader: (2)

Yes, I've got quite a bit left. I'm going to upgrade the ground for the battery, as well as another 1/0 ground from the alt to the body, and maybe a power from the alt to the fuse box up front. Not sure on the last one though, its up in the air. I've got some noise floor going to the sub that I haven't figured out where it's coming from but I'm assuming its a ground.

I like them. You can get the VVX 10's for 125 a piece right now, thats why I jumped on it. found the deal on CACO. They get surprisingly low, a little lower than the SA's, and are about the same up top. vibrates my box to all hell, gotta get that sorted out too!



OP, lets see this sub choice!

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

if u have noise floor move the amp ground to the batt terminal directly when u replace it

mhend5

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the tip, I'll try that

Waka Flocka Fluff

Decided on going this route with my system. Currently trying to locally sell my 12s sealed because I just feel trunk space is more important. Can't decide on either going with a comp rt or doing all the work to get a kicker cwr to fit. I like the idea of cutting the back of the box out... never would of thought of that. Already upgraded my battery with a big xs power 3100 in the factory location (; working on getting a kicker 5-channel. What do you guys recommend? Comp rts and have it wired up in a heart beat, or take the extra time to make baffles to fit a comp cwr (new cvr)? PS - I hate the idea of a big sub inverted, kinda ruins the point of saving space. no offence. Looks clean though!

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

^agreed

mhend5

iTrader: (2)

Regardless, I can always mount the sub the other way after I see how your results turn out. I was simply intending to show my amp location.

Any updates?

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

updates? I made 472 whp on a dyno today. LOL

sub should be here friday.

Joe22

iTrader: (1)

mhend5 - Nice, I like that amp location. Post some pics when you got all the wiring and stuff cleaned up. Might suggest some rubber washers and lock nuts. Cut the threads to size to make it look cleaner.

c130aviator - So how deep is the sub your getting? 5.5" 6"? I'd hate for you to go through all this and leave no room for the air vent to flow making the sub heat up very fast. Might wanna make that back hole big as you can so it doesn't cup the sub magnet/motors heat.

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

i have considered the bumped vented motor.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

if u dont have a pole vent it wouldnt matter but most subs do

mhend5

iTrader: (2)

Thank you. I left the threads longer so if someone decides to try and take the amp, it will take them longer to remove the bolts, but if they decide to bring wrenches and tackle the larger bolts, well then its their lucky day.

imperialsedanSS

iTrader: (4)

this is an awesome thread im glad i finally found it. i had been looking for a few days now for a how to on our factory sub box but the only one i had found was the one for the upgraded shallow mount. im currently modding my own factory box so it will have a mount depth of 6 1/2 to 7 1/2 inch to accommodate a much deeper and beefier sub so far about 1/2 way done and hopefully be done sometime Friday night have taken alot of pictures and have all the measurements and materials needed thinking about doing my first HOW TO THREAD. i have the sub amp and everything weird just waiting to finish up on Friday.

cant wait to see the final product on your box will differently keep an eye on it and same for the others on here that are currently doing there own thing

c130aviator

iTrader: (8)

Subs in.

silvercharged

iTrader: (1)

Looks good thatll make some noise!

imperialsedanSS

iTrader: (4)

lol thats the one I originally wanted it was a toss up between that and the type r looks goo hope to see a video of how it hits