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Old 06-10-2019 | 05:23 PM
  #526  
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From: Phoenix
Originally Posted by ProfDNS
If you can't afford the $20 for the metra harness, don't do the swap at all.
Which one would I need. I don't have onstar and idk if I have the pioneer system in it. I'm trying to add a 500 watts with cvr kickers. .
Old 06-16-2019 | 01:49 PM
  #527  
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what harness you need depends on the year of the car. If all you are doing is trying to add bass you dont "need" to replace the stock radio but you can. Installing without a harness is more difficult (assuming you get it working at all) and there isnt a pro to doing it other than saving some money... you would end up using more install parts though so the cost isnt free vs not
Old 01-24-2020 | 01:48 PM
  #528  
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Upgrading HU

Hey everyone I had my stock in my 07 ss/sc get fried can I add a double din HU and keep my factory amp working without buying the expensive lan adapter ?
Old 01-24-2020 | 05:46 PM
  #529  
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Originally Posted by DaTbOy 6GoD
Hey everyone I had my stock in my 07 ss/sc get fried can I add a double din HU and keep my factory amp working without buying the expensive lan adapter ?
If you dont care about turn signal chimes and can find the right cheap one then yes
Old 01-24-2020 | 06:18 PM
  #530  
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Do you know a good one that ain't hundreds of the dollars or no?
Old 01-25-2020 | 02:55 AM
  #531  
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im not sure if metra makes them anymore but when i originally wrote this they did. 07+ should be easier to find by either metra or another manufacture.

Metra = 70-2104 (70-2202 should work as well but the 2104 is the best option)
Old 01-25-2020 | 03:10 PM
  #532  
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Thanks emperor
Old 02-12-2020 | 10:38 PM
  #533  
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They still make them, I bought a new one last week (finally came in). Still ~$20.
@EmperorJJ1 , I was hoping to grab your attention with the PAC SWI-RC (steering wheel interface). I have the rest of the stuff wired, but this small tidbit is confusing me:
326 - Connect the INTERFACE's Green wire to pin 11(Dk. Blue) in connector 1 of the vehicle connector. DONE
I'm having an issue with this -> Connect pin 14 (White/Black) in connector 2 to +12v accessory. Is that the interface's black/white wire or the stereo adapter that ties into the metra harness?

VCC connector -> https://catalog.pac-audio.com/index....attachment=126 (Solstice)
Application Notes -> https://catalog.pac-audio.com/index....attachment=125 (#326)
Old 02-22-2020 | 04:21 PM
  #534  
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that would be the one on the interface
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Old 10-23-2023 | 08:12 AM
  #535  
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Somebody please help me fix my intermittent chimes and turn signal clicks on my 06 ss/sc. It's driving me up a ******* wall lol
Old 07-24-2024 | 07:47 PM
  #536  
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Hello, would any of the cheaper harnesses work for a 2008 cobalt with onstar and premium pioneer system? I only care bout keeping steering volume buttons.
thanks
Old 07-24-2024 | 10:02 PM
  #537  
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Originally Posted by intocobalts
Hello, would any of the cheaper harnesses work for a 2008 cobalt with onstar and premium pioneer system? I only care bout keeping steering volume buttons.
thanks
The answer to this is sometimes they work. I have seen a lot of people have tons of issues using the “cheap” harnesses. A lot of those same people end up spending so much time and extra money trying to sort out the mess they made, that it would have been worth it right from the start to spend little bit extra and do it right the first time.

These cars are already known for electrical problems, don’t add to the problem by not using the right harness. Send the few extra dollars and make it right. Especially if you want your steering wheel controls to remain. I searched all my harness on crutchfield, and bought the right harnesses from Amazon. Everything was literally plug and play, no splicing wires.
Old 07-31-2024 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by blu3_v1p3r
The answer to this is sometimes they work. I have seen a lot of people have tons of issues using the “cheap” harnesses. A lot of those same people end up spending so much time and extra money trying to sort out the mess they made, that it would have been worth it right from the start to spend little bit extra and do it right the first time.

These cars are already known for electrical problems, don’t add to the problem by not using the right harness. Send the few extra dollars and make it right. Especially if you want your steering wheel controls to remain. I searched all my harness on crutchfield, and bought the right harnesses from Amazon. Everything was literally plug and play, no splicing wires.
Youre probably right, just trying to save money in any way I can on a car that isn't worth sinking alot of money into. I appreciate it
Old 08-02-2024 | 11:58 AM
  #539  
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The PAC harness I have is only $100. If you're not going to sink that much into the car for the audio experience, I probably wouldn't do it at all. Most decent audio systems, and I mean less than 500W, would run you roughly $250 for the speakers, another $200 for a monoblock, then $200 for a subwoofer that fits that box. Obviously doesn't include a headunit, because that's ultimately a personal choice.

For reference, I spent $1000 on my JL Audio system, monoblock, 4 speakers (kept the pioneer tweeters, they are very good for what they are), and sound deadening material. Only a 400W system, it's loud and thumps good, and was able to use my stock pioneer subwoofer box so I can keep my trunk open for tools and golf clubs.
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Old 08-03-2024 | 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by ProfDNS
The PAC harness I have is only $100. If you're not going to sink that much into the car for the audio experience, I probably wouldn't do it at all. Most decent audio systems, and I mean less than 500W, would run you roughly $250 for the speakers, another $200 for a monoblock, then $200 for a subwoofer that fits that box. Obviously doesn't include a headunit, because that's ultimately a personal choice.

For reference, I spent $1000 on my JL Audio system, monoblock, 4 speakers (kept the pioneer tweeters, they are very good for what they are), and sound deadening material. Only a 400W system, it's loud and thumps good, and was able to use my stock pioneer subwoofer box so I can keep my trunk open for tools and golf clubs.

If you dont mind did you drop another shallow mount sub into the pioneer box? If so what sub did you use, and Is it much of a hassle to drop one in. I do wonder if the stock sub already in it would be worth using if it was pushed by 200 watts or so. Right now its pretty weak sounding and often doesnt even sound amplified half the time.
Old 08-03-2024 | 06:25 AM
  #541  
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Originally Posted by intocobalts
If you dont mind did you drop another shallow mount sub into the pioneer box? If so what sub did you use, and Is it much of a hassle to drop one in. I do wonder if the stock sub already in it would be worth using if it was pushed by 200 watts or so. Right now its pretty weak sounding and often doesnt even sound amplified half the time.
so i put an aftermarket on that stock sub for a local guy and he blew it. i wouldn't anticipate it handling much power for very long before destruction. You have to consider that vehicle manufactures basically barely want things to last long enough past the warranty period. stock amp is probably like 40w at best so chevy would have had to buy a sub that can handle 200w to only put 40w on it. that aint happening
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Old 08-03-2024 | 12:33 PM
  #542  
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From: Frozen Wasteland of the North
Originally Posted by intocobalts
If you dont mind did you drop another shallow mount sub into the pioneer box? If so what sub did you use, and Is it much of a hassle to drop one in. I do wonder if the stock sub already in it would be worth using if it was pushed by 200 watts or so. Right now its pretty weak sounding and often doesnt even sound amplified half the time.
Originally Posted by EmperorJJ1
so i put an aftermarket on that stock sub for a local guy and he blew it. i wouldn't anticipate it handling much power for very long before destruction. You have to consider that vehicle manufactures basically barely want things to last long enough past the warranty period. stock amp is probably like 40w at best so chevy would have had to buy a sub that can handle 200w to only put 40w on it. that aint happening
Running this (or similar, I don't quite remember the model #): https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13610T...-10TW3-D4.html
Have a JL Audio 400W monoblock to that in the enclosure. Took some light modifying to the plastic case itself, but been running this for a few years now. Of course, I don't turn my audio up to max either, but I do sometimes go 3/4 when I have my windows down, sunroof open and my back seats down for the most air.
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Old 08-06-2024 | 12:15 AM
  #543  
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Would this work?
link
Old 08-06-2024 | 03:20 PM
  #544  
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From: Frozen Wasteland of the North
Originally Posted by intocobalts
Would this work?
link
I don't see why not when fitted with the Metra specific harness.
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Old 08-09-2024 | 10:05 AM
  #545  
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Is the metra a specific/special harness needed for the adapter to work or just a standard one you need for hookup?
Old 08-09-2024 | 12:48 PM
  #546  
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From: Frozen Wasteland of the North
Originally Posted by intocobalts
Is the metra a specific/special harness needed for the adapter to work or just a standard one you need for hookup?
It's the connector for the stock radio harness so you don't butcher it, so yes it's specific.
Results for: 2009 > Chevrolet > Cobalt > SS > 2-door > Coupe | Vehicle Fit Guide | Metra Online

In total, you need:
  • The din (or double din) bracket for the radio
  • Metra stock radio harness
  • The steering wheel control retainer controller
  • Antennae adapter
To replace stock radio with another headunit.

Wiring instructions are easy to follow, make sure the 12V power wire you tap a fuse for goes into auxiliary (ie: shuts off when car is off). I used the same fuse as my sunroof.
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