What amp to buy for W3s
#1
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What amp to buy for W3s
I am getting two 12 inch JL W3s and i am thinking i will need a new amp because i have a 580 watt amp rite now and i know thats not enough. (i dont want a 500$ amp) What do you all think i should get that would make the W3s bump at their best?
anyone please...
.......
I need some electronics nuts to help me out here. i dont want to drive to an audio store just to find out.
anyone please...
.......
I need some electronics nuts to help me out here. i dont want to drive to an audio store just to find out.
Last edited by MBMCustoms; 08-22-2008 at 01:30 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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the amp i have is actually a dual and it is a good amp. i have two twelve inch duals on it right now and they are 550W max a piece and they bump like no other, i just dont know what jls would sound like with it. i still want the same bump. (if not more, lol)
#6
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OK you need a new amp
Getting one for under $500 is going to be an issue but lets see what we can find,
This one is my favorite of the bunch, and a really good deal
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=4224
These are pretty good amps, remember the ratings are taken at 12.6 volts, not the 14.4 your car is going to put out
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...Product_ID=127
And this one I only recomend because I had one and its a workhorse, and she never once got even close to warm to the touch, very effecient
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...Product_ID=235
This is based on the assumtion that you have the SVC version if there DVC's then thats a whole other story.
Does not matter what amp you have running them if you have a shitty box.
Heres my advice go to you local stereo shop (not Best Buy or CC) and have them build you one to the JL specs, have them tune it to the proper freq. It doesn't have to be anything crazy just a normal box (IMO ported but you can go sealed as well) made out of 3/4" or bigger MDF. It will make all the difference in the world and won't costt as much as one of the JL subs do.
Getting one for under $500 is going to be an issue but lets see what we can find,
This one is my favorite of the bunch, and a really good deal
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=4224
These are pretty good amps, remember the ratings are taken at 12.6 volts, not the 14.4 your car is going to put out
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...Product_ID=127
And this one I only recomend because I had one and its a workhorse, and she never once got even close to warm to the touch, very effecient
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...Product_ID=235
This is based on the assumtion that you have the SVC version if there DVC's then thats a whole other story.
Does not matter what amp you have running them if you have a shitty box.
Heres my advice go to you local stereo shop (not Best Buy or CC) and have them build you one to the JL specs, have them tune it to the proper freq. It doesn't have to be anything crazy just a normal box (IMO ported but you can go sealed as well) made out of 3/4" or bigger MDF. It will make all the difference in the world and won't costt as much as one of the JL subs do.
#8
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I'm sure it is, I just am not a fan of JL amps though, its a personal thing. I know alot of people that love them.
I also hate Pioneer and any thing Apple (Death to the Ipod and Itunes) for no reason other than they bother me, I Dunno why, they just do
I don't mean to be ass, but the JLA1800D is only 2ohm stable, your sure you have it running at 1ohm
I also hate Pioneer and any thing Apple (Death to the Ipod and Itunes) for no reason other than they bother me, I Dunno why, they just do
I don't mean to be ass, but the JLA1800D is only 2ohm stable, your sure you have it running at 1ohm
#10
my bad i changed it....i forgot im running it at 2 ohms...originally i was gonna buy a 1 ohm stable amp but this was much better and the price was great. 1000rms @ 2 ohms @14.4v
each sub is getting just about 500 rms which is near the "danger zone" but there is not clipping etc. and i hardly ever play them loud...plus the amp is untuned and i have the input sensitivity turned all the way down. i gotta borrow a voltmeter
each sub is getting just about 500 rms which is near the "danger zone" but there is not clipping etc. and i hardly ever play them loud...plus the amp is untuned and i have the input sensitivity turned all the way down. i gotta borrow a voltmeter
#11
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I couldn't believe it when I saw them either, that same amp is going for $949.99(CAN) at a shop up the street from me.
Personaly I won't order anything from the internet unless i can't buy it anymore (I still have a thing for those oldschool amps) but it seems to be the norm around here so I just assumed he wuld be ordering from the internet. To find an amp thats going to put a decent amount of power to those 12's for under $500, at a local store is going to be hard.
the only one would be that JBL (of the list i provided) its pretty close to the price I paid and you can get them at best buy, infact i think I saw an advertisment that had them at $299.00 (CAN) now that the 700.1 are out.
If you want to order from the internet then get that Audison, I have no idea how there selling it at that price but its a hell of a deal.
Personaly I won't order anything from the internet unless i can't buy it anymore (I still have a thing for those oldschool amps) but it seems to be the norm around here so I just assumed he wuld be ordering from the internet. To find an amp thats going to put a decent amount of power to those 12's for under $500, at a local store is going to be hard.
the only one would be that JBL (of the list i provided) its pretty close to the price I paid and you can get them at best buy, infact i think I saw an advertisment that had them at $299.00 (CAN) now that the 700.1 are out.
If you want to order from the internet then get that Audison, I have no idea how there selling it at that price but its a hell of a deal.
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#17
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I'm guessing its an XIA 4225,
If so its only 400 watts rms, 800 watts peak/dynamic/marketing scheme, what ever you want to call it. Chances are it won't put out 400 watts but you never know. In order to get those ratings there are a bunch of variables that you have to keep in mind, certain voltage, certain freq., say two hail Marys, and a Our Father, ect.
Listen in all honesty you should step up your amp if you want to get the most out of those W3's. Its hard to sort through all the bullsh*t that the amp company's are putting out there, Just keep this in mind, "You get what you pay for"
If so its only 400 watts rms, 800 watts peak/dynamic/marketing scheme, what ever you want to call it. Chances are it won't put out 400 watts but you never know. In order to get those ratings there are a bunch of variables that you have to keep in mind, certain voltage, certain freq., say two hail Marys, and a Our Father, ect.
Listen in all honesty you should step up your amp if you want to get the most out of those W3's. Its hard to sort through all the bullsh*t that the amp company's are putting out there, Just keep this in mind, "You get what you pay for"
#18
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well i have three hand me down amps now from friends that can not use them and the powers i am saying is peak because i dont know what the rms is on them. i have an 1100 watt amp now that got donated but i have no clue on rms.
peak
peak
Last edited by MBMCustoms; 08-27-2008 at 01:59 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#20
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no some wierd no name brand. i think its Audiofonix.
and the W3s i want are the single 4 ohm and i will be wiring them as the duals i have are right now which is 4 ohm nominal.
and the W3s i want are the single 4 ohm and i will be wiring them as the duals i have are right now which is 4 ohm nominal.
Last edited by MBMCustoms; 08-28-2008 at 12:33 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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