What Amp For Two 12" type R Alpine Subs??
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What Amp For Two 12" type R Alpine Subs??
Hey guys I just got two Alpine type R 12" subs today. What amp and wattage should I be looking for to power these?? Hope I can get some ideas! Thanks
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You need at least a 1000W amp. I has one for sale!! Perfect for our set up. Look>>https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/stuff-137/fs-alpine-1000w-car-amplifier-mrd-m1005-134851/
Last edited by drop-n-destroy; 02-08-2009 at 02:37 AM.
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4 gague should be fine. Look into rockford fosgate, cadence, jbl, hifonics, soundstream, jl, and memphis just to name a few that are good amps for a good price.
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The Alpine M1000 it is perfect to run the RMS wattage on your subs, if you want to go peak then you should get more than 1000W which I don't think you won't need to go that far. My amp will be perfect. I was running one 12" Alpine type-X at 1000W at 2ohms and it was more than enough to power that baby. Also, with the M1000 you can control it from the head unit IF you have an Alpine HU. PM if you're interested on my amp
#13
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You have 2 DVC 2 ohm subs
This would put your final draw at 0.5 ohms or 0.25 ohms either way there are not many amps out there today that can do this (I long for the cheater amps of the past)
So in order to run it off a mono amp you'll have to run it in series (unless you can find a 2 channel amp thats good to 1 ohm stereo, good luck)
In order to get the power you need you will have to find a mono amp that runs 1000 watts @ 4ohms because this will be the final output with a set up run in series.
So remember alot of amps rate their power at 2 ohms, if the amp says 1000 watts at 2 ohm them it might only be 500 at 4 ohms
Make sure that your amp puts out 1000 watts at 4 ohms and you'll be just fine
This would put your final draw at 0.5 ohms or 0.25 ohms either way there are not many amps out there today that can do this (I long for the cheater amps of the past)
So in order to run it off a mono amp you'll have to run it in series (unless you can find a 2 channel amp thats good to 1 ohm stereo, good luck)
In order to get the power you need you will have to find a mono amp that runs 1000 watts @ 4ohms because this will be the final output with a set up run in series.
So remember alot of amps rate their power at 2 ohms, if the amp says 1000 watts at 2 ohm them it might only be 500 at 4 ohms
Make sure that your amp puts out 1000 watts at 4 ohms and you'll be just fine
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^^^^uh... 2 dvc 2ohm subs you can run them at 2 ohms.
Wire each sub in parallel and then both subs in series to the amp... 2 ohms.
Or each sub in series then both subs to the amp in parallel... 2 ohms.
The alpine m1000 is rated at 1000w 2ohms that will be a good amp for those R's.
If you have the manual for the type R's look it up its on there. Page 3, example 4. I found the manual on alpines website.
Wire each sub in parallel and then both subs in series to the amp... 2 ohms.
Or each sub in series then both subs to the amp in parallel... 2 ohms.
The alpine m1000 is rated at 1000w 2ohms that will be a good amp for those R's.
If you have the manual for the type R's look it up its on there. Page 3, example 4. I found the manual on alpines website.
#16
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^^^^uh... 2 dvc 2ohm subs you can run them at 2 ohms.
Wire each sub in parallel and then both subs in series to the amp... 2 ohms.
Or each sub in series then both subs to the amp in parallel... 2 ohms.
The alpine m1000 is rated at 1000w 2ohms that will be a good amp for those R's.
If you have the manual for the type R's look it up its on there. Page 3, example 4. I found the manual on alpines website.
Wire each sub in parallel and then both subs in series to the amp... 2 ohms.
Or each sub in series then both subs to the amp in parallel... 2 ohms.
The alpine m1000 is rated at 1000w 2ohms that will be a good amp for those R's.
If you have the manual for the type R's look it up its on there. Page 3, example 4. I found the manual on alpines website.
I had 4 stuck in my head for some reason, oh well it was to early to be doing math anyway
In that case that M1000 (depending on how much $$$ he wants for it) would run the subs
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Your right I don't know what I was thinking, 2 ohms is out put if you run them in series and then parallel back to the amp,
I had 4 stuck in my head for some reason, oh well it was to early to be doing math anyway
In that case that M1000 (depending on how much $$$ he wants for it) would run the subs
I had 4 stuck in my head for some reason, oh well it was to early to be doing math anyway
In that case that M1000 (depending on how much $$$ he wants for it) would run the subs
The amp runs about 300 new (woofers) so its kinda pricy.
I was pushing mine (when I had them) with a fosgate 1000.1 and was giving them close to 600 rms each, they worked fine. Ive even seen someone give them 1000w each and they pounded for quite a long time I think he got a year and a half out of them.
Last edited by stinkyfisherman; 02-08-2009 at 06:54 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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I dont think they are any use whatsoever. IMO they just put more of a strain on the electrical system. Get a better battery than factory and if you feel up to it do the big 3 upgrade
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A cap only works if you have the current there to start with, if your drawing more power than your car can dput out then a cap is not only not going to help you but in the end put more of a strain on the electrical system.
At 2300 watts my system draws over twice what the alt can put out but no cap is going to help that, not even a Kinetik HC 1800 totally stoped the light dim, I have 2 of the big 3 done but have a feeling the 3rd isn't going to stop it either so I am having an alt built from the ground up by a local guy, its costly but the only way to get a 200+ amp alt for these cars, short of a problematic 2 alt setup.
If your drawing less than 105 amps then a cap might help, but IMO there just a plecebo, they make you think there working but really there just for show
At 2300 watts my system draws over twice what the alt can put out but no cap is going to help that, not even a Kinetik HC 1800 totally stoped the light dim, I have 2 of the big 3 done but have a feeling the 3rd isn't going to stop it either so I am having an alt built from the ground up by a local guy, its costly but the only way to get a 200+ amp alt for these cars, short of a problematic 2 alt setup.
If your drawing less than 105 amps then a cap might help, but IMO there just a plecebo, they make you think there working but really there just for show
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A cap only works if you have the current there to start with, if your drawing more power than your car can dput out then a cap is not only not going to help you but in the end put more of a strain on the electrical system.
At 2300 watts my system draws over twice what the alt can put out but no cap is going to help that, not even a Kinetik HC 1800 totally stoped the light dim, I have 2 of the big 3 done but have a feeling the 3rd isn't going to stop it either so I am having an alt built from the ground up by a local guy, its costly but the only way to get a 200+ amp alt for these cars, short of a problematic 2 alt setup.
If your drawing less than 105 amps then a cap might help, but IMO there just a plecebo, they make you think there working but really there just for show
At 2300 watts my system draws over twice what the alt can put out but no cap is going to help that, not even a Kinetik HC 1800 totally stoped the light dim, I have 2 of the big 3 done but have a feeling the 3rd isn't going to stop it either so I am having an alt built from the ground up by a local guy, its costly but the only way to get a 200+ amp alt for these cars, short of a problematic 2 alt setup.
If your drawing less than 105 amps then a cap might help, but IMO there just a plecebo, they make you think there working but really there just for show