what wrong with the gauge
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what wrong with the gauge
So today i instaled a voltmeter gauge n my car and it was kind of challenging but i got it. but there is one thing iconnected everything to where it should be but how come my gauge isnt reading anything i installed everything right because the gauge lit up and now im not to sure what i did wrong. Does anybody have any idea what i did wrong?
#2
there should be 3 wires coming out of the gauge
one goes to ground
one goes to a CONSTANT power source, like the positive battery terminal
and ones goes to a SWITCHED source, you should put this wire in the positive terminal of your amp along with the power wire.
one goes to ground
one goes to a CONSTANT power source, like the positive battery terminal
and ones goes to a SWITCHED source, you should put this wire in the positive terminal of your amp along with the power wire.
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mine id kind of different it has a bulb that i plug into the anp and the buld has a black and white wire and there are 3 terminal on the bottom of it one has grd, another has S, and the lsat one has I.
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#7
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The third wire is not used on yours.
You need one to a good ENGINE ground, its very specific in the instructions so I'm thinking a chassis ground might not cut it.
The other has to go to a switched 12 volts source. For this I would use a fuse tap and tap an unused fuse in the fuse box. If you tap a used fuse (wipers, windows, etc) it might have an effect on the gauge when you use whatever you taped.
If you don't have a sunroof then I would use that fuse spot.
I don't suggest using the actual ignition switch, the gauge needs 8 volts at the min to run, but the problem we ran into when installing my remote start is the ignition cycles its voltage, I saw it drop to as low as 1 volt.
You need one to a good ENGINE ground, its very specific in the instructions so I'm thinking a chassis ground might not cut it.
The other has to go to a switched 12 volts source. For this I would use a fuse tap and tap an unused fuse in the fuse box. If you tap a used fuse (wipers, windows, etc) it might have an effect on the gauge when you use whatever you taped.
If you don't have a sunroof then I would use that fuse spot.
I don't suggest using the actual ignition switch, the gauge needs 8 volts at the min to run, but the problem we ran into when installing my remote start is the ignition cycles its voltage, I saw it drop to as low as 1 volt.
#9
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iTrader: (16)
The third wire is not used on yours.
You need one to a good ENGINE ground, its very specific in the instructions so I'm thinking a chassis ground might not cut it.
The other has to go to a switched 12 volts source. For this I would use a fuse tap and tap an unused fuse in the fuse box. If you tap a used fuse (wipers, windows, etc) it might have an effect on the gauge when you use whatever you taped.
If you don't have a sunroof then I would use that fuse spot.
I don't suggest using the actual ignition switch, the gauge needs 8 volts at the min to run, but the problem we ran into when installing my remote start is the ignition cycles its voltage, I saw it drop to as low as 1 volt.
You need one to a good ENGINE ground, its very specific in the instructions so I'm thinking a chassis ground might not cut it.
The other has to go to a switched 12 volts source. For this I would use a fuse tap and tap an unused fuse in the fuse box. If you tap a used fuse (wipers, windows, etc) it might have an effect on the gauge when you use whatever you taped.
If you don't have a sunroof then I would use that fuse spot.
I don't suggest using the actual ignition switch, the gauge needs 8 volts at the min to run, but the problem we ran into when installing my remote start is the ignition cycles its voltage, I saw it drop to as low as 1 volt.
if you look on the installation instructions further down the page...all you use is the ground and the "I" plug. Its too easy...
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