who's good with audio?
#1
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who's good with audio?
So after doing the major stuff to my car i wanna focus on the sound a lil bit. i havent had front speakers in forever. right now i have stock rear speakers two 12" rockford fosgate P2's a cheap 1000w amp and a pioneer avic d3 headunit. the front speaker wires are all messed up. i want a system that bumps but has awesome quality. any input?
#7
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If the wiring from the speakers to the headunit is messed you would still have to run new wiring through the door to the amp. Running new wiring through the door is a biaaaatch lol...test your wires for connectivity from end to end " From the headuit's harness to the speaker plug "
#12
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It all depends on what your budget is. If you are into quality sound, an amp is a must, as well as replacing all the speaker wiring and increasing the gauge. Everything in the cobalt that has to do with audio basically sucks. I replaced all 7 speakers with Focals, check them out, they are relatively unknown but some of the best speakers around. I got the Alpine PDX-5 5-channel amp and rewired everything. Dynomatted everything as well. I got the Avic Z110bt head unit. Total cost of materials including harnesses to keep steering wheel controls and Onstar was about 2,500. Sound quality and volume is awesome.
More details here:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/383583...upe-2d/page-6/
More details here:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/383583...upe-2d/page-6/
#13
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It all depends on what your budget is. If you are into quality sound, an amp is a must, as well as replacing all the speaker wiring and increasing the gauge. Everything in the cobalt that has to do with audio basically sucks. I replaced all 7 speakers with Focals, check them out, they are relatively unknown but some of the best speakers around. I got the Alpine PDX-5 5-channel amp and rewired everything. Dynomatted everything as well. I got the Avic Z110bt head unit. Total cost of materials including harnesses to keep steering wheel controls and Onstar was about 2,500. Sound quality and volume is awesome.
More details here:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/383583...upe-2d/page-6/
More details here:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/383583...upe-2d/page-6/
#16
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true but he also wanted input without really asking a question. so im trying to get to the point of a question or at least a general idea of what hes asking for. the only thing close he put was "i want a system that bumps but has awesome quality" unfortunately system means different things to different people so its hard to tell where hes going with that but since he said "bumps" its obvious hes referring to bass. he then asked for awesome quality which in most cases means good sound like the suggestion you gave (much appreciated) BUT it can also be used for further describe the bass he sorta asking about so i cant really assume much from that.
Ultimately the first post is somewhat poorly written and the only way to attempt to get the OP what he wants is to do some digging and follow the yellow brick road to what were hoping is the emerald city at the end here. Now i do agree that using the stock speaker wiring is not ideal especially if its messed up BUT its pretty obvious that he will have to do something to get the fronts speakers working. SO instead of my first post being something negative requesting more information that the OP may or may not have even begun to think about I just posted the blatantly obvious information while subscribing to the topic. Since then we learned he is planning on installing a separate amp and new wiring.
I'm confused at your comment thou, If you read thru the thread i haven't really suggested anything.. Im was just giving him the options he has available based on the information he has provided. Sorry kutch but not running wires thru the dash is impossible so you cant make a decision on anything based on that. Its not easier to run an amp vs running wires thru the dash because you have to do it either way, If you run an amp you will have to run wires from the radio to the amp for signal thus running wires thru the dash. Colodude since you installed your own system i figured you might have caught on to that
Ultimately the first post is somewhat poorly written and the only way to attempt to get the OP what he wants is to do some digging and follow the yellow brick road to what were hoping is the emerald city at the end here. Now i do agree that using the stock speaker wiring is not ideal especially if its messed up BUT its pretty obvious that he will have to do something to get the fronts speakers working. SO instead of my first post being something negative requesting more information that the OP may or may not have even begun to think about I just posted the blatantly obvious information while subscribing to the topic. Since then we learned he is planning on installing a separate amp and new wiring.
I'm confused at your comment thou, If you read thru the thread i haven't really suggested anything.. Im was just giving him the options he has available based on the information he has provided. Sorry kutch but not running wires thru the dash is impossible so you cant make a decision on anything based on that. Its not easier to run an amp vs running wires thru the dash because you have to do it either way, If you run an amp you will have to run wires from the radio to the amp for signal thus running wires thru the dash. Colodude since you installed your own system i figured you might have caught on to that
#17
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yea sorry i should have been way more clear. I thought that way would be easier. I want to re-0do all spakers to a seperate amp. Re-do my subs and amp and upgrade headdunits. and add in fat matt or whatever. Wiring is not my strongest thing lol. I wanna do this over a course of time not just all at once
#18
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went from 2 10 cadences and a cerwin vega 250.2 + lineout converter to where im at now.
pioneer appradio 2
pioneer ts-a 6.5 components
pioneer ts a 6x9 4 way
pioneer (dont remember name) dual voice coil shallow 10 in added stock enclosure.
pioneer 3500t
pioneer 4500f
lots of 14, 10, and 4 gauge wire
monster rca leads
solder....
and lots of patience, running wires isnt hard....just not fun lol.
ill post a few pics if i could find em.
pioneer appradio 2
pioneer ts-a 6.5 components
pioneer ts a 6x9 4 way
pioneer (dont remember name) dual voice coil shallow 10 in added stock enclosure.
pioneer 3500t
pioneer 4500f
lots of 14, 10, and 4 gauge wire
monster rca leads
solder....
and lots of patience, running wires isnt hard....just not fun lol.
ill post a few pics if i could find em.
#19
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Soldered wires
was gunna do one of these, but i decided i liked my spare tire
used the front speakers as adapter plates
not the best pic....but mess of wires
random engine shot to keep me motivated haha
ended up mounting them to the 60 side of the rear seat
all connected
was gunna do one of these, but i decided i liked my spare tire
used the front speakers as adapter plates
not the best pic....but mess of wires
random engine shot to keep me motivated haha
ended up mounting them to the 60 side of the rear seat
all connected
#20
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yea sorry i should have been way more clear. I thought that way would be easier. I want to re-0do all spakers to a seperate amp. Re-do my subs and amp and upgrade headdunits. and add in fat matt or whatever. Wiring is not my strongest thing lol. I wanna do this over a course of time not just all at once
#24
Senior Member
Personally this is what i am in the process of doing, I have replaced the doors with sony xplod (they were free and are going to be replaced with good kenwoods), my 6x9s are 150 watt rms each (getting a small amp for those later). and 1 kenwood 400 watt rms 12in sub and 400 watt rms pioneer amp (birthday gift from freind, gonna be kenwood eventually).
anyway, im running the stock head unit (i like my free xm radio lol) with a converter for the subs (can find at walmart, splices in line with stock speakers and has 4 rca cable plugs, basically 8 subs or more).
Basically if you want a good quality system your gonna have to pay to play, and do some wiring bc stock wires are ****
I recommend getting either jl audio, alpine, or kenwood door speakers and 6x9's. I prefer kenwood bc they have high quality 5 way speakers (what im running currently) that will give you decent bass so you dont rely on the subs all the time but seriously punch out some treble. Then i recommend gettin 2 shallow mount (if you wanna have a usable trunk) 12in subs. build a box to fit, 500 watt rms each is plenty good for cobalts since they resonate the sound into the cab damn good. get a 2 channel amp and your set to pick out your favorite double din and chime retainer kit. Also recommend getting a cheaper but not shitty 4 channel 100x4 amp to run the door and 6x9s off of. help get them a lil extra juice. Oh and use around 12 guage wire for the speakers. its a bitch to rewire but if you do it right the first time, youll never have to do it ever again. you wont need a cap for the amp if you get a good h6 battery, they are teeny bit bigger than stock but still fit in the stock holder. just a lil more juice is all.
MOST IMPORTANT THING IS TAKE YOUR TIME AND DO IT RIGHT OR ULL KICK YOURSELF IN THE FACE LATER
Good luck
anyway, im running the stock head unit (i like my free xm radio lol) with a converter for the subs (can find at walmart, splices in line with stock speakers and has 4 rca cable plugs, basically 8 subs or more).
Basically if you want a good quality system your gonna have to pay to play, and do some wiring bc stock wires are ****
I recommend getting either jl audio, alpine, or kenwood door speakers and 6x9's. I prefer kenwood bc they have high quality 5 way speakers (what im running currently) that will give you decent bass so you dont rely on the subs all the time but seriously punch out some treble. Then i recommend gettin 2 shallow mount (if you wanna have a usable trunk) 12in subs. build a box to fit, 500 watt rms each is plenty good for cobalts since they resonate the sound into the cab damn good. get a 2 channel amp and your set to pick out your favorite double din and chime retainer kit. Also recommend getting a cheaper but not shitty 4 channel 100x4 amp to run the door and 6x9s off of. help get them a lil extra juice. Oh and use around 12 guage wire for the speakers. its a bitch to rewire but if you do it right the first time, youll never have to do it ever again. you wont need a cap for the amp if you get a good h6 battery, they are teeny bit bigger than stock but still fit in the stock holder. just a lil more juice is all.
MOST IMPORTANT THING IS TAKE YOUR TIME AND DO IT RIGHT OR ULL KICK YOURSELF IN THE FACE LATER
Good luck