dragon_slayer

tried a search,
i want to keep the factory setup, it's an 07 ss/sc with the pioneer setup, is their a better sub that will produce more bass and still use the factory amp and enclosure?? never really been fond of pioneer sub, i just want some clean deep bass but not that wouls shake the rearview mirror off and rattle all over.
what would some suggestions be? in my 01 z24 i have jl audio subs, and i like them alot,
or should i get an aftermarket amp and still use the enclosure because i need all the trunk space cant have a box or anything in there.
I want to stay as stock look as possible.

thanks,
always been a cavy guy, cobalts are still new to me..

Omega_5

Yeah, you can switch out the factory sub for an after market one, and still keep the stock box. You'll have to check on it, but I believe one guy swapped in a low power JL.
And yeah, it will have alot more boom.

Forced SS

iTrader: (1)

You need to add another amp.the stock amp isn't going to have enough power.And be prepeared to modify the stock box.As for a sub I would look at the new shallow mount subs.

Texas SS

yeah find shallow mount, Rockford,pioneer, and few more companyies havve some i believe

dragon_slayer

can i run an amp inline w/ the factory one, or do i have to disconnect the factory one altogether?i/m not talking about 500 to 1000w amp, prob. a 150 or 200, would that cause any probs w/ the factoru HU?

JPizzle

Some guy on here swapped his out.... I'll find the thread.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-guide-43/how-upgrade-rear-sub-78178/

Spun

iTrader: (1)

You can swap the sub for a shallow mount one but I don't suggest it, change the box as well. First the stock box is made of plastic, there is a reason why most sub boxes are made from such thick MDF wood, so they don't flex, second the stock sub is bolted through the back of the box, I'm guessing due to the fact that 8 screws into plastic might not stand the test of time, I'm not sure but can't name any sub companys that thread the inside of the magnet to allow it to be bolted in, like I said I am not sure about that , I'll have to check.
What you need is a line output converter,
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/IS...ps.html?page=4
This will allow you to splice the speaker wires that run to the sub into it and convert them to RCA's, letting you to run an amp.
Depending on how much you want to spend, there are several different combos (sub/amp) but as stated earlier JL audio for the sub is one of the best. They require very little air space and give a nice deep, clean, bass. Also sound good across the spectrum. (some subs sound good at one freq. but bad at another JL's for the most part sound good across the board) A 10w3 or 12w3 should do what you want
If you only want a 250-300 watt amp then the JL audio 250/1 is a good amp but is a little pricey (but it does look nice when the sub and amp match)if your looking for more bang for the buck then the JBL 300.1 is a good amp,
http://www.shop.com/JBL_CS300_1_Ampl...p!.shtml?trk=2
I had one of these running one Image Dynamics DVC 10 and it thumped pretty good
Polk audio also makes some med. priced amps that are good the C300.2 would do what you want
http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/specs/amps/c300_2/
My friend has a C500.1 running 2 Eclipse 12's in a 2001 jetta and sounds really good, the amps are durable, (he abuses the **** out his and it still works) and can also be rack mounted
Hope this helps

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

have u actually taken the stock sub out? Because when i removed my enclosure it didnt have any bolts anywhere close to the sub and i never had to remove the sub from the enclosure. Spun is pretty correct in thinner matterial can flex more but plastic is stronger then wood at the same thickness so while a mdf box that uses 1/2" will be stronger that doesent mean the stock one is shitty.

Now if your interested in a bit more bass then i would say swap the stock sub (maybe try and run thicker wires) and get an aftermarket amp. Will this be as loud as a new box? no but it will keep your space.

Oh and about the stock amp. leave it there but make sure the sub wires arent connected to anything and cant touch anything.

Spun

iTrader: (1)

So I had to dig it out of the back of my closet, but I found the stock sub, and after taking the 22 screws that hold it together I fliped it over and well here are some pictures ( I shrunk them a bit so as not to take up too much space)
Stock sub

Bolt on back of Sub box

Sub after back half of box is removed

Sub with Bolt screwed into it


So to answer the question yes have taken the box apart, did so about a week after I got the car when I felt an inline low pass crossover would make the sub sound better, I unscrewed the sub and tried to take it out but she didn't budge,
When you do take it apart you will find that most of the plastic is onlly a couple centimeters thick, in fact if you hold it up to a light you can see the light come through it, the front is a bit thicker, but not much
What I was getting at was that plastic and wood act different when sound waves are bounced off them, there is reason why MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard) is used on most boxes, its acustic value. Yes there are plastics that at half the thickness could be twice as strong but the stock box is not one of them, the best way I can explain it is to say it sounds like the sub is mounted in a tin can, this of course is opinion, not fact.
If you do choose to keep the stock box might I suggest getting a spray on sound deadener and giving the inside of the bax a good coat of it. Rockford Fosgate used to make this stuff called "Blue Noise Killer" but I haven't seen it around for a few years, even spray on truck beadliner would do the trick
As EmperorJJ1 put it leave the stock amp, it will run your front end just fine

Brian MP5T

Usually the more $$$ a sub is, the more power it can handle.. Changing the AMP might be required as well or you might actually loose volume..

warrenb213

mmmmmm.

wish somebody would try this.

Performance Teknique ICBM-5712DX

Wish somebody would try this one, there is a reason it was on back order for so long, just was made available again today.

I might be going back to that sub soon.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

that sub cant take 500 rms... im 85% sure

warrenb213

done it emp. As I said, I do explore cheaper options for all kinds of stuff, and was pleasantly surprised with it in my civic prior to the car being stolen.

now somebody else has it, and is killing.... lol

it may be worth noting who i compared my civic system too as well. 2 Civic's with JL audio equipment, a jeep grand cherokee running a rockford fosgate amp to an 12" Alpine Type-R, and an Integra GSR with an inverted 10" Type-R amp unknown.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

interesting... they look pretty damn wimpy but then again they may be like re 8s.... Im going to be doing an install tomorrow with 2 re's on either 300 or 350 rms and i bet they will hit in the low 40s. I should get the TL up and running

dragon_slayer

what are the specs on the factory sub(watts), i searched and couldn't find it. can it handle a little more power than the factory amp? such as an aftermarket amp, just a small one nothing spectacular, maybe 200w or so.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

doubt it... the entire system was rated like 430w peak

warrenb213

get a 500w amp and hook it to the stock sub.....mmmhmmmm goood smell of burning voice coil

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

im so familiar with that smell

NOS2006

What is our amp rated at? How much better a sound could I get on the stock SS/SC system just by replacing the amp and receiver?

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

look at post 16.... replacing the HU will give u a bit more volume and some more control but swaping the amp will give u blown stock speakers