06BrandonSS

Hello, well me of all people bought subs and have never installed them before. Here's my question. I was at Walmart earlier looking at their sub and amp wiring and came across a complete kit by Schose(sp?) that had a capacitor, all the wiring needed, battery hookup, inline fuse, and all the good stuff for $80. Has anyone used/seen this before, good buy? I have 2 800w 12" Rocky Fosgates and plan on picking up an amp this weekend. Thanks everyone!

redlineblueline

thats your problem right there anyhow i dont know but i'll give you a bump

boostnss

i have never used it but it should work you don't really need a cap but thats up to you yea walmart isn't the best place to get that stuff but it works if you have a small buget

bgbearcatfan

the cap included in that is probably a piece of crap. You might check and see if you can get a kit at like bestbuy or somewhere for similar price without the cap

Enuff_Said

1. Dont use that wiring kit.

2. How many amps are you going to be running and how many watts?

3. Head Unit?

06BrandonSS

thats your problem right there anyhow i dont know but i'll give you a bump
lol i was there before looking for the wiring harness for the head unit and saw all that so figured ide give it a try

I have no idea what a capacitor does but if it works better I'de get it.

2=Just one 1600w amp or do you recommend one 800w for each sub

3=Pioneer DEH-P3900MP

Enuff_Said

it's better you get a new head unit...and depending on how many amps you have you would need to go w/ a head unit that has at least 3 pairs of RCA connections. One for the subs going to a 2channel amp, 2 for the speakers into a 4 channel amp for example. Not to mention tweets. If you have multiple amps you would need a multi amp kit...it's pretty much the same thing as the one your looking at, but it has a distribution block and better fuses. I dont think you need a cap. just upgrade your wiring and you should be fine. Depends....

One 1600wt would be ok...your going to get speakers right?

I would look into a better head unit...try the DEH 6900UB

06BrandonSS

Its kind of tough cause I just bought his head unit lol. I plan on eventually getting different speakers also, dont have the dough right now. Ill look into that head unit though.

Enuff_Said

I would get everything together before you start installing

06BrandonSS

Will do, Ill try to get everything together soon, itll be a couple weeks before everything gets hooked up. What speakers do you suggest?

Spun

iTrader: (1)

Don't go get one of those kits from best buy, your batt. is in the trunk. You don't need 20 feet of power wire. Depending on where your placing it, 6 feet should do.
Go to a local (non big name) car stereo shop, you should be able to buy it by the foot, they justy cut it off the spool.
Two amps are always better han one (as long as they match) but this is twice the work and draws more power. one amp will do what you need. If you want to run 2 fosgates with it, its going to cost you, look into the fosgate amps, you dont have to stick with the same company with subs and amps but it looks better and it cant hurt.
Is 800 the RMS on those subs or is it the peak?
That Head Unit you have DOES have 3 pre outs on it
http://www.bestbuy.ca/catalog/prodde...76&catid=21981
So this is what your going to need
6 feet of 4 gauge or better power wire
3 feet of the same gauge ground wire (try to make the ground smaller than 3 feet, but no bigger)
17- 20 foot SHIELDED rca's (dont go cheap on these, get the good ones)
20 feet of 18 gauge automotive wire (remote turn on)
A couple of ring terminals that match the gauge of power/ground wire you get
Depending on how far your amp is from your subs, a few feet of 12 guage speaker wire
1 100amp or better inline fuse ( the plexiglass bullit style ones are good)
Some heatshrink/electrical tape, if you know how to soder then soder all your conections, some zap straps and most important 10 feet or so of loom (black plastic wire cover)
Dont let your power/ ground wire rest on bare metal, just a bad idea all around

If you want to use a capp then its your choice, I use one but some people don't think they work. Its not a must have. Siink the $$$ into upgrading the batt before you buy a capp

06BrandonSS

That all helps me out a ton, thanks very much.
Up in bold^ I have no idea, I don't know audio much. I just bought these from my brother and all he said was they are 800w a piece. Thanks again!

Enuff_Said

couple of things....

1. i would go a little higher than 100 on the amp of the ANL fuse
2. Make sure the fuse is less than 12" from the battery
3. get a good quality distribution block...should be 4g inlet and 2 8g outlet
4. Quick tip: Use the windshield wiper fuse term. for the remote power

06BrandonSS

Ok thanks again

Misery5567

Can't go wrong with stuff made by these folks:

http://www.streetwires.com/

But I'll warn ya... It's damn expensive!!!
I've used it before. Top/show quality stuff.

Spun

iTrader: (1)

1)Your running an after market HU so you do not have to use the fuse trick. On the back of the HU there is a blue or blue and white wire labeled REMOTE, that is where you take the 20 feet of 18 guage wire ( I like to use blue wire so it looks nice, you can use yellow with purple polka dots, it makes no diff.) and run it from the HU to the Remote terminal on the amp, its usualy with the Power/ground terminals
2) If your only going to use 1 amp you have no need for a distribution block, this is to split the power wire to run more than one amp, just run the wire right into the amp
3) The inline fuse all depends on how many amps your amplifier is drawing, you can tell this by the size of the fuse/fuses on the side of the amp if it has 1x40 amp fuse then it draws 40 amps, 2x40 amp fuses 80 amps. Just be sure to get an inline fuse that is bigger than the sum of the fuses on the amplifier or you'll be blowing them every couple minutes.
3) The inline fuse should be no more tha 6 inches away from the battery, this is important I'm sorry i forgot to mention it earlier, any more than that and the surge that its ment to block could do damage to the battery itself or the amplifier
4) RMS is the power the subs can handle constantly, peak is what they can handle in short bursts. Thats the best way I can describe it, I have writters block today, or just all out A.D.D. in any case on the back of the sub it should give you the RMS wattage, if not it should have the model number just post that and I'll look it up for you.

BTW- Street wires is a good company for wires, so is Stinger and I Hear Tsunami has good wiring products but have yet to check them out myself. this all of course is IMO

pik

I don't know why i see this on car performance forums, what you have are 12" subs-the 800W part means nothing, you have whatever power you hook up to it. it could be 1 watt or 1000. I'm not callin you out dude i just see it non-stop.

What is the ohm rating on those subs? single or dual coil?

Don't buy that wiring kit, as already said the battery is in the trunk and cuts way down on wire needed. just buy a quality amp that has a good RMS rating (if the max watts are in big bubble letters on the box, keep looking)

I'm not going to get on the cap thing anymore, just save that money and get a better battery

Enuff_Said

....it means something when he puts a wattage above the RMS range. It wont last long if it's not matched

pik

not true actually. observe:

A.)lets say he gets a 500w "chrome bling" amp and cracks the gain setting wide open and bumps up and down the street all the while clipping the signal hurting the amp and sending the speaker into distortion.

B.)now he tries out a Hi-end amplifier (Arc, Tru,Genesis, Zapco or others etc) with a huge amount of headroom (amps RMS is over the Max on the sub) and sets the gain correctly. everything is schweet and in those rare cases where more power is needed it's there

which do you think is better? Either can be bad, the smart listener will choose "B" everytime



Now back to the other stuff, we do need some specs on these woofers, i went to RF's site and they don't make a 12" sub with an RMS of 800 or a max for that matter. are they new or old?

Spun

iTrader: (1)

Run to much power and you'll fry it,
My brother gave me a DVC 10 inch Audiobahn that I can now stand on and it still wont move. I also have a12 inch JBL than when pushed on sounds like nails on a chalk board. Both these subs were fried of a JBL 300.1. They were just lower end subs and could handle the power.
So it makes a big difference,
" you have whatever power you hook up to it. it could be 1 watt or 1000."

Guy, do you install somewhere?

If so let me know, so I never take my **** there.
Thats the worst advice I have ever herd

Enuff_Said

X2

pik

dude audiobahn is not good to begin with so that's not gonna be a good argument.

my piont was, and maybe i'm not saying this right, is that alot of people will post, and say I'm pushing 2 1000w 12's !!!! and turns out they are running something like a $100 "special" 500w amp. and they can't get around the fact their speakers are not getting 1000W apeice.


ps i still say headroom is better

Spun

iTrader: (1)

BTW The OLD School RF DVC's you know one of the first DVC lines they came out with were a 1000 watts 500 per coil.
Listen its pretty obvious that the OG poster does not have an extensive car audio background, I think he even said so. This is why he is asking advice, not so punks can can pop shots at him and tell him how to fry his ****.
Had we even talked about what amp to run?
Did I not ask him to take a look at the subs and give the info of the back?
Other than saying what I already said about the kit and the batt. what the hell are you talking about.
Yeah it is a better I dea to buy a bigger amp and turn it down, and Yeah, I even agree that old school power is better,A HCCA Orion (red) or a Rodek, The MA series by PG, the punch 200DSM, or if you want to be like easy E even the Zapco's are some of the best amps ever made, true raw power. However thats not what we were talking about, so maybe you should read the thread 1 more time, calm your ass down and explain what your getting at, you do have a point right?
added- I se your point but read carefully HE'S NOT CLAIMING MEARLY ASKING, SO GET OFF HIS BACK

pik

dude. I'm not trying to stir anything up. Alot of people need similiar advice and people put it out there. I also asked about the sub specs. We need to know that before we start giving advice about amps

Sorry if I came off bad. If I was in the performance forum I'd get flames cuz I would want to ask about CAI's for the 700th time. I'm here to pick up knowledge on mods I've never done that with any car I've owned. I have been doing car audio since the early 90's and competing here and there along the way. So I thought I could jump in here and there with my experience.

I will waive the white flag now

I will waive the white flag

06BrandonSS

wow, sorry my post caused so much chaos...I will look on the back of my subs tomorrow morning when I get out of class. Sorry I had to work this afternoon and just got home if you were waiting on me to get the specs. I honestly do not know how old these subs are, I'm just going off of what I am being told by my brother. He bought them from a friend and you know how it goes. Thanks again for the help, I really appreciate it.