Need feedback: Making a 100% ECOTEC Related Turbo FAQ
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Need feedback: Making a 100% ECOTEC Related Turbo FAQ
Ok, me and the ECOTECForum.com have been talking about this for a good while. Mainly, there are alot of questions on what can people do as far as turboing their 2.0, 2.2 & 2.4.
I am going to be consulting with a few people with answers that I might need more detail on that I don't know myself.
Now, what I'm asking of CobaltSS is to think of questions that you would honestly like to have answered that is turbo related...will this fit...will this work...how does this work...what does this do...ecotec related or turbo related, whatever. Your questions will be entered and answered.
This will be for ALL ECOTEC motors.
Also, I don't know as of yet if I will post it on here but I will probably link it just for the fact that if I have to update it to add more questions, I probably won't come back on here to update it as well, so it will defenitley be posted on ecotecforum.com though.
Thank you for your time.
I am going to be consulting with a few people with answers that I might need more detail on that I don't know myself.
Now, what I'm asking of CobaltSS is to think of questions that you would honestly like to have answered that is turbo related...will this fit...will this work...how does this work...what does this do...ecotec related or turbo related, whatever. Your questions will be entered and answered.
This will be for ALL ECOTEC motors.
Also, I don't know as of yet if I will post it on here but I will probably link it just for the fact that if I have to update it to add more questions, I probably won't come back on here to update it as well, so it will defenitley be posted on ecotecforum.com though.
Thank you for your time.
#2
Senior Member
im interested! i want to make 300-350 reliable whp and with this supercharger it doesnt seem possible unless i push it to its limits (port polishing blower, 2.5 in pulley)
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by cvenom2122
im interested! i want to make 300-350 reliable whp and with this supercharger it doesnt seem possible unless i push it to its limits (port polishing blower, 2.5 in pulley)
FYI: I'm going to be off from work for the next 3 days and I'll have absolutely nothing to do but sit in front of my laptop (I need a 2nd job or a TV ), so I'll be thinking of a ton of questions, trying to find pictures and things of that nature.
Lets get the ball rolling...
#5
Senior Member
Originally Posted by NJHK
Ok, well start making up questions and I'll add it to it.
FYI: I'm going to be off from work for the next 3 days and I'll have absolutely nothing to do but sit in front of my laptop (I need a 2nd job or a TV ), so I'll be thinking of a ton of questions, trying to find pictures and things of that nature.
Lets get the ball rolling...
FYI: I'm going to be off from work for the next 3 days and I'll have absolutely nothing to do but sit in front of my laptop (I need a 2nd job or a TV ), so I'll be thinking of a ton of questions, trying to find pictures and things of that nature.
Lets get the ball rolling...
like:
how do i tap the oil pan and were? can i just drain the oil then drill a hole and fill the pan back up drive a round for a lil then re drain car to get the shavings out? i dont feel like dropping the oil pan..... and were is a good spot on the oil pan to do this. also were exactly does the BOV go on what peice of piping? (turbo outlet to throttle body?) can i leave the blower on and just gut it? etc? what is this hahn intake manifold and is there ones already available, that arent from hahn?
#7
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 1gmfanatik
Will this be a replacement for the present Supercharger or a Twin-Charged type setup??
#8
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lol...Sorry about my previous question. I miss interpreted the Q&A part at the top. I thought it was pertaining to a Turbo setup being made for our vehicles. My mistake
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Witt
OK, i'll take my best stab at this. Oil pan return line will be drilled and tapped near the bottom of the pan itself. One way to keep a majority of the shavings in one place is to use liberal amounts of grease around the area being drilled/tapped.
BOV aint gonna happen unless you remove the MAF. Can't discharge metered air into the atmosphere and still expect the car to run decently. If you really wanna BOV, get rid of the MAF and run a straight MAP/speed density tune but you won't pass any type of state emissions if you have them. If you keep the MAF, the BOV will have to be plumbed to act as a recirculating valve that blows off compressed air before the throttle plate and back into the intake before the turbo but after the MAF sensor.
BOV aint gonna happen unless you remove the MAF. Can't discharge metered air into the atmosphere and still expect the car to run decently. If you really wanna BOV, get rid of the MAF and run a straight MAP/speed density tune but you won't pass any type of state emissions if you have them. If you keep the MAF, the BOV will have to be plumbed to act as a recirculating valve that blows off compressed air before the throttle plate and back into the intake before the turbo but after the MAF sensor.
#11
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The oil pan return should be tapped at the highest of the pan. The oil won't drain properly from the line if tapped at the bottom. Take the pan off when doing so as well. The extra time will save serious money down the road.
The MAF could be put into the intake tube that supplies the turbo. The sensors that are in the manifold will have to go into the new manifold or stay where they're at if you twincharge. I don't think a BOV would be necessary for the twincharge route as the bypass would relieve the pressure. I think you could go atmopheric with the BOV if the map sensors are put in the manifold if you're going full turbo. The bypass valve would be removed needing a new release. It makes sense in my mind, but I could be wrong.
The MAF could be put into the intake tube that supplies the turbo. The sensors that are in the manifold will have to go into the new manifold or stay where they're at if you twincharge. I don't think a BOV would be necessary for the twincharge route as the bypass would relieve the pressure. I think you could go atmopheric with the BOV if the map sensors are put in the manifold if you're going full turbo. The bypass valve would be removed needing a new release. It makes sense in my mind, but I could be wrong.
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 2K5SS/SC?
The oil pan return should be tapped at the highest of the pan. The oil won't drain properly from the line if tapped at the bottom. Take the pan off when doing so as well. The extra time will save serious money down the road.
The MAF could be put into the intake tube that supplies the turbo. The sensors that are in the manifold will have to go into the new manifold or stay where they're at if you twincharge. I don't think a BOV would be necessary for the twincharge route as the bypass would relieve the pressure. I think you could go atmopheric with the BOV if the map sensors are put in the manifold if you're going full turbo. The bypass valve would be removed needing a new release. It makes sense in my mind, but I could be wrong.
The MAF could be put into the intake tube that supplies the turbo. The sensors that are in the manifold will have to go into the new manifold or stay where they're at if you twincharge. I don't think a BOV would be necessary for the twincharge route as the bypass would relieve the pressure. I think you could go atmopheric with the BOV if the map sensors are put in the manifold if you're going full turbo. The bypass valve would be removed needing a new release. It makes sense in my mind, but I could be wrong.
#13
will i need to reflash or tune my computer if i do do the swap..i heard someting about a bleeder in our soperchargers will it effect if i go turbo..how much is the hahn exhaust manifold?how much or the safest amount of boost for our ss/sc internals???whats up with the maf sensor or whatever if i go turbo it still has to go connected to our cars right??computer will not detect and trip??
#15
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Originally Posted by NJHK
Good questions marzbarz
REMEMBER PEOPLE! DO NOT ANSWER THE QUESTIONS! THIS IS JUST FOR QUESTIONS ONLY!
REMEMBER PEOPLE! DO NOT ANSWER THE QUESTIONS! THIS IS JUST FOR QUESTIONS ONLY!
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#17
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Dual charged questions:
What is a good turbo and blower pulley combo to run on stock internals? Modified?
Can a MAF sensor be plumbed into a charge pipe?
Where can a smaller tensioner pulley be bought for a blower pulley larger than stock?
What is a good turbo and blower pulley combo to run on stock internals? Modified?
Can a MAF sensor be plumbed into a charge pipe?
Where can a smaller tensioner pulley be bought for a blower pulley larger than stock?
#19
Originally Posted by Witt
Dual charged questions:
What is a good turbo and blower pulley combo to run on stock internals? Modified?
Can a MAF sensor be plumbed into a charge pipe?
Where can a smaller tensioner pulley be bought for a blower pulley larger than stock?
What is a good turbo and blower pulley combo to run on stock internals? Modified?
Can a MAF sensor be plumbed into a charge pipe?
Where can a smaller tensioner pulley be bought for a blower pulley larger than stock?
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Halfcent
I'll happily help with these. Just let me know which question you want answered. Until then, I'll keep my mouth shut.
I'll keep in touch with you in the next 2 - 3 days.
#22
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
I have a few Questions
Is it better to build a turbo kit piece by piece or to go ahead and get a kit that comes with everything?
If i go with a kit should i scout out the Garrett kit or the Hann kit?
How much boots is too much for a stock 2.2 ecotec head, rods, and pistons?
Is it better to build a turbo kit piece by piece or to go ahead and get a kit that comes with everything?
If i go with a kit should i scout out the Garrett kit or the Hann kit?
How much boots is too much for a stock 2.2 ecotec head, rods, and pistons?