$200 to spend... best first mod?
#1
$200 to spend... best first mod?
So... thanks to two 6-day work weeks... I now have about $200 in extra pay... to do with as I please.
The only major thing I've done to my SS/SC is the Airbox Mod... and the lower grille insert is on order.
It's a toss up for me... between Engalls Torque Dampner, a B&M Short Shifter, or DC Sports strut bar.
I'm leaning towards the Torque Dampner b/c it'll help with wheel hop and launching... as I have yet to get to the drag strip... but hope to soon.
Any advice?
The only major thing I've done to my SS/SC is the Airbox Mod... and the lower grille insert is on order.
It's a toss up for me... between Engalls Torque Dampner, a B&M Short Shifter, or DC Sports strut bar.
I'm leaning towards the Torque Dampner b/c it'll help with wheel hop and launching... as I have yet to get to the drag strip... but hope to soon.
Any advice?
#12
I tell yea, my Ingalls has not bent yet and it sure did cut way down on the wheel hop. For me it was a good investment. The strut bar does help in straight line racing. You have a lot more body flex then you think in every hard take off you do. As you can see there are a lot of choices for you. It will come down to what you want first. The short shifter would be one of my last choices and that’s just my opinion.
#14
personally out of all the mods i have done to my car, i liked my short throw shifter the most, but if i had an ss/sc i would save that 200 for another month or so, see what i can get an get a stage 2 or 3 kit...
#15
Ingalls TB. Mounts are better but the fact is an Ingalls does a good job and you can put it on with hand tools in 10 minutes. You can always take it off if your stealership is a warranty voiding machine(I know mine is) in ten minutes.
#17
Thanks for all the replies so far guys! As far as the stage kits go.. I wanna get some of the more basic mods out of the way first (read: take care of wheel hop and get a new clutch). Then I'm gonna run Stage 2 w/2.8... probably by this time next year. I don't wanna worry about anything else breaking when I do get the stage kit in.
#19
Blown 4-Banger has an Ingalls and he took it off be cause it made the car run rougher and made a horrible clunking sound when making left hand turns. You can actually see where the brackets were hitting. I think the brackets for the TB are poorly designed since they only have strength in one direction. I'm not sure if you are aware of this or not, but the engine doesn't just move in one direction. That is why people are bending the brackets.
If you want to do it right get all the motor/trans mounts in poly aswell as the control arm bushings. Don't half-ass it do right the first time and don't worry about it.
I dont know how the strut bar is gonna help in a straight line. The body shouldn't be flexing side to side since the motor is transverse mounted and will torque forward, not side to side. You will get better results from mounts and bushing than a strut bar.
If you want to do it right get all the motor/trans mounts in poly aswell as the control arm bushings. Don't half-ass it do right the first time and don't worry about it.
I dont know how the strut bar is gonna help in a straight line. The body shouldn't be flexing side to side since the motor is transverse mounted and will torque forward, not side to side. You will get better results from mounts and bushing than a strut bar.
#22
It would be best to save for the mounts IMO. Look at Tofu's how-to. They are not that difficult to change and don't require a shop or garage. The Control Arm Bushing require a press and would have to be done at a shop.
#23
I have all three and I love them all. The sts is shorter but still not very short (either way I like it WAY better than stock). I love the strut bar because I like to see what the car can do in the twisties. lastly the torque dampner I can't really give a whole lot of input b/c I didn't get much wheel hop stock.
If I may I'd suggest lowering springs. They made my car handle much better between the strut bar and springs the car feels much more solid coming out of corners.
If I may I'd suggest lowering springs. They made my car handle much better between the strut bar and springs the car feels much more solid coming out of corners.
#24
Originally Posted by SilverStreak
Also not all of us have a shop where we can just pop the engine out and replace the mounts either. I'm stuck in the parking lot unfortunately...
INGALLS!!!!!! Solid mounts AREN'T adjustable so you are stuck with "shake my teeth loose" or stock. With the Ingalls Stiffy adjustment is the name of the game. You can have stock for your daily drive and hard as a rock for the Track. Mounts are a quick fix to a problem with many solutions. In no way are mounts a bad idea they just arent for everyone. I think the Ingalls Stiffy is the way to go for you... but it is your money.
#25
I sat in a car with trans and motor mounts and believe it or not it doesn't feel much differant. As long as you do all the mounts the same you shouldn't gain too much of a vibration. If you only do one, you will get more vibration than stock or all ploy mounts.