Break In
03-13-2007, 09:02 PM
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Break In
My car just came from the factory. Instead of 6-8 weeks, it took less than 3 weeks
Im gonna be mad if the 1k rebate comes 4/4, the day after the $500 one expires. They said i have to pick it up by the end of the month
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
According to that, I should change the oil in my SS/SC to regular oil as soon as i get it. What do you guys think? Is it even ok to put regular oil in the SS/SC?
Im gonna be mad if the 1k rebate comes 4/4, the day after the $500 one expires. They said i have to pick it up by the end of the month
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
According to that, I should change the oil in my SS/SC to regular oil as soon as i get it. What do you guys think? Is it even ok to put regular oil in the SS/SC?
03-13-2007, 09:07 PM
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Say what now?
Hmm... the label on the oil cap says "Mobil 1" Synthetic... please please please don't put regular oil in the SS/SC. Dear god don't listen to that website... the ******* in that picture looks like he's been ******* cars up since before he was old enough to drive.
Just let it ride for 1000 miles... don't granny-drive it... but don't ***** to the wall hammer it all the time either. Then change the oil with synthetic... check for any problems... and start modding.
Hmm... the label on the oil cap says "Mobil 1" Synthetic... please please please don't put regular oil in the SS/SC. Dear god don't listen to that website... the ******* in that picture looks like he's been ******* cars up since before he was old enough to drive.
Just let it ride for 1000 miles... don't granny-drive it... but don't ***** to the wall hammer it all the time either. Then change the oil with synthetic... check for any problems... and start modding.
03-14-2007, 05:25 AM
#4
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You cannot put "regular oil" in a motor after it has had synthetic in it. If it came from the factory with synthetic (which it does) then you must continue to put that in it. If they designed the motor using synthetic oil it is because it lubricates it a lot better an helps keep heat and friction way down. More importantly, if you put regular oil in a car after it has had synthetic in it, you can f-up a lot of the seals. Do not listen to that moron. Just resign yourself to that fact that you will be paying $50-$75 per oil change (takes 6.5 -7 quarts). FYI it is a lot easier to change the oil if you remove the s/c. It is just 4 bolts, but the oil filter is right below it. Some people have figured out elaborate ways to replace the filter without removing the s/c, but it goes a lot quicker (for me) doing it that way.
03-15-2007, 03:02 AM
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b/c it will still be shaving until around 1000mi. Are you gonna change your oil every 20 miles you put on the car? I don't think so. I would listen to GM and only GM because they are the ones who put millions upon millions into research on these cars.
03-15-2007, 05:21 AM
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Once again read your owners manual!!!! It has the best info on care about your car. Better than anyone on the web or Bob's Garage. That's what its there for to answer questions like you've posted. If Chevy marked it sythetic use synthetic. By the way, if you don't want your engine to last, put convetional oil in it and see what happens.....
03-15-2007, 05:51 AM
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You cannot put "regular oil" in a motor after it has had synthetic in it. If it came from the factory with synthetic (which it does) then you must continue to put that in it. If they designed the motor using synthetic oil it is because it lubricates it a lot better an helps keep heat and friction way down. More importantly, if you put regular oil in a car after it has had synthetic in it, you can f-up a lot of the seals. Do not listen to that moron. Just resign yourself to that fact that you will be paying $50-$75 per oil change (takes 6.5 -7 quarts). FYI it is a lot easier to change the oil if you remove the s/c. It is just 4 bolts, but the oil filter is right below it. Some people have figured out elaborate ways to replace the filter without removing the s/c, but it goes a lot quicker (for me) doing it that way.
Also the harder break in is the corect way to go
That is how I break my race motors in
Just keep the revs below 5k the first 15 miles(alows the cams to break in) and you will be cool make shure you run synthetic in these motors thoe the oil gets lots of abuse.
03-15-2007, 05:59 AM
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GM says right on the oil cap as well as in the manual to put Mobil 1 Synthetic in her, I'd stick to what they say for sure. As far as break-in goes...That's a tough one, everyone will have a difference in opinion. I have found that alot of people that race their rides say that you should give her a couple miles for everything to settle then to drive it like you would normally.
Hell, mine was GM's ride and drive car for all the NOPI shows and all and she has had a ROUGH first 630 miles, but other then the idle surge that I have to get fixed with a tune, she runs DAMN strong. Cannot complain at all. The idle surge issue isn't because of that though, there has been updated reflashes to GM's stage kits and I can't get em..One of the downfalls to being the very first 07 to have Stg2, can't get the Calibration number to get the flash. Ah well, gettin her tuned after my cams get done...Anywayz...Stick to Mobil 1 Full Synthetic and you'll be aight
Hell, mine was GM's ride and drive car for all the NOPI shows and all and she has had a ROUGH first 630 miles, but other then the idle surge that I have to get fixed with a tune, she runs DAMN strong. Cannot complain at all. The idle surge issue isn't because of that though, there has been updated reflashes to GM's stage kits and I can't get em..One of the downfalls to being the very first 07 to have Stg2, can't get the Calibration number to get the flash. Ah well, gettin her tuned after my cams get done...Anywayz...Stick to Mobil 1 Full Synthetic and you'll be aight
03-15-2007, 01:42 PM
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Prove the guy wrong what information do you have to say other wise.
Almost evrything that is on that site is race proven truth.
But if you want to keep spreading ignorance go right ahead.
Almost evrything that is on that site is race proven truth.
But if you want to keep spreading ignorance go right ahead.
03-15-2007, 03:22 PM
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UMM YEAH I dont know where you got that info about swapping from synthetic to regular that is absolute misinformation
Also the harder break in is the corect way to go
That is how I break my race motors in
Just keep the revs below 5k the first 15 miles(alows the cams to break in) and you will be cool make shure you run synthetic in these motors thoe the oil gets lots of abuse.
Also the harder break in is the corect way to go
That is how I break my race motors in
Just keep the revs below 5k the first 15 miles(alows the cams to break in) and you will be cool make shure you run synthetic in these motors thoe the oil gets lots of abuse.
03-15-2007, 04:24 PM
#15
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You can switch back and forth between synthetics and regular as often as you want as long as you change it when its supposed to be changed.
I'll go one step further and say a SS/SC would be OK on regular oil - I'm not saying that it would be a GOOD idea since regular oil doesn't meet the spec listed in the owners manual (and they could deny your warranty) - but I'll bet you could drive one for 100,000 miles on regular oil and have no problems, if you change it often enough. Anyone want to try it out for me?
I'll go one step further and say a SS/SC would be OK on regular oil - I'm not saying that it would be a GOOD idea since regular oil doesn't meet the spec listed in the owners manual (and they could deny your warranty) - but I'll bet you could drive one for 100,000 miles on regular oil and have no problems, if you change it often enough. Anyone want to try it out for me?
03-15-2007, 04:59 PM
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Tell what drunk mechanic told you that you can switch between oils? I guarantee you go to any certified dealership or and reputable tuner shop and they'll tell you the same. Thats one of the most retarded things to do ist to listen to an article on a new car break in. As soon as something goes wrong and Chevy breaks the engine apart and see that there's different oil.....it doesn't even matter if that was the cause they'll void the warranty for not following manufactures instructions.
You can use regular oil or synthetic in any car!!
But me personaly i will run synthetic in all of my cars.
Most people are ignorant and dont realise the the best regular oil is worse than the crappyest synthetic
And the whole switching back and forth from synthetic to regular There will be no long term problems if yor motor is put together properly.
However in our cars beacuse of the warenty I only use synthetic.
also synthetic last longer is more stable ect....
03-15-2007, 05:12 PM
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you can use any full synthetic, mobil1, castrol syntec, royal purple, "q" from quaker state. etc.
i do not think that is correct. this is why...
my friend had a 1990 accord, with an h22 swap. the h22 takes regular oil... we put mobil1 in it one day, it ran great for about a wekk... then it began breaking up and what not... we checked the oil and it was all burnt up. he never had that problem before, and he switched back to reg. oil and never had the problem again
OK let me break it down for you
You can use regular oil or synthetic in any car!!
But me personaly i will run synthetic in all of my cars.
Most people are ignorant and dont realise the the best regular oil is worse than the crappyest synthetic
And the whole switching back and forth from synthetic to regular There will be no long term problems if yor motor is put together properly.
However in our cars beacuse of the warenty I only use synthetic.
also synthetic last longer is more stable ect....
You can use regular oil or synthetic in any car!!
But me personaly i will run synthetic in all of my cars.
Most people are ignorant and dont realise the the best regular oil is worse than the crappyest synthetic
And the whole switching back and forth from synthetic to regular There will be no long term problems if yor motor is put together properly.
However in our cars beacuse of the warenty I only use synthetic.
also synthetic last longer is more stable ect....
my friend had a 1990 accord, with an h22 swap. the h22 takes regular oil... we put mobil1 in it one day, it ran great for about a wekk... then it began breaking up and what not... we checked the oil and it was all burnt up. he never had that problem before, and he switched back to reg. oil and never had the problem again
Last edited by chevysalesman614; 03-15-2007 at 05:12 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
03-15-2007, 05:20 PM
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you can use any full synthetic, mobil1, castrol syntec, royal purple, "q" from quaker state. etc.
i do not think that is correct. this is why...
my friend had a 1990 accord, with an h22 swap. the h22 takes regular oil... we put mobil1 in it one day, it ran great for about a wekk... then it began breaking up and what not... we checked the oil and it was all burnt up. he never had that problem before, and he switched back to reg. oil and never had the problem again
i do not think that is correct. this is why...
my friend had a 1990 accord, with an h22 swap. the h22 takes regular oil... we put mobil1 in it one day, it ran great for about a wekk... then it began breaking up and what not... we checked the oil and it was all burnt up. he never had that problem before, and he switched back to reg. oil and never had the problem again
because mobil 1 is top 10 oil.
03-15-2007, 05:52 PM
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it didnt say change and stay with regular oil. it just says put regular oil to break in the rings cuz synthetic makes it too smooth that it takes away the whole point of breaking in the rings. after 1500 miles you can switch back to synthetic. thats what it says and looks logical to me. My mechanic suggested the same thing to me. he worked on a team of drag cars and bikes. but do as you wish is right its your own car.
03-15-2007, 07:01 PM
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It is possible to switch between regular and synthetic oils, however synthetic is the all around better choice. The Cobalt SS/SC produces alot of heat which is why they recommend Synthetic, however if you werent hard on your car, and drove it like a old lady, you will be just fine on regular oil.
As for the hard break ins is 100% correct. However it IS smart not to be hard on it 24/7. Its simple. If you drive it like a race car 95% of the time...then do so during break in periods, however give it some time to rest. Also on that guys site that says alot of problems occur from not letting the engine fully warming up is a complete myth. Technicaly you have to wait long enough for the oil to get circulating at a nice temp. (80 - 110*F).
Our cars run at approx 160 - 200* but average about 180-190. However I have seen my car up to 220 before...on a cold night from idling.
If you wait for the oil to circulate, give it some gas...if it feels kinda sluggish...let it warm up some more. Now In no way did I say floor it and hold it. Rev it to about 3 - 4.5k and see if it stutters around 4kish RPM's.
HOWEVER. That guy's site did make 100% sense and was fully logical...if I had a motorcycle which is recommended to do so by higher end performance bike manufacturers. But to cars, not so much.
Ive always broken in cars the same way, I'll take it for a nice low rpm cruise for about 5-10miles....then in 1st gear, i'll get rpm's to about 4 - 5k RPM...keep it there while in gear...then punch it and go 1st through 3rd....redline to redline. then coast and use the engine as a brake.
As for the hard break ins is 100% correct. However it IS smart not to be hard on it 24/7. Its simple. If you drive it like a race car 95% of the time...then do so during break in periods, however give it some time to rest. Also on that guys site that says alot of problems occur from not letting the engine fully warming up is a complete myth. Technicaly you have to wait long enough for the oil to get circulating at a nice temp. (80 - 110*F).
Our cars run at approx 160 - 200* but average about 180-190. However I have seen my car up to 220 before...on a cold night from idling.
If you wait for the oil to circulate, give it some gas...if it feels kinda sluggish...let it warm up some more. Now In no way did I say floor it and hold it. Rev it to about 3 - 4.5k and see if it stutters around 4kish RPM's.
HOWEVER. That guy's site did make 100% sense and was fully logical...if I had a motorcycle which is recommended to do so by higher end performance bike manufacturers. But to cars, not so much.
Ive always broken in cars the same way, I'll take it for a nice low rpm cruise for about 5-10miles....then in 1st gear, i'll get rpm's to about 4 - 5k RPM...keep it there while in gear...then punch it and go 1st through 3rd....redline to redline. then coast and use the engine as a brake.
03-15-2007, 07:03 PM
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It is possible to switch between regular and synthetic oils, however synthetic is the all around better choice. The Cobalt SS/SC produces alot of heat which is why they recommend Synthetic, however if you werent hard on your car, and drove it like a old lady, you will be just fine on regular oil.
As for the hard break ins is 100% correct. However it IS smart not to be hard on it 24/7. Its simple. If you drive it like a race car 95% of the time...then do so during break in periods, however give it some time to rest. Also on that guys site that says alot of problems occur from not letting the engine fully warming up is a complete myth. Technicaly you have to wait long enough for the oil to get circulating at a nice temp. (80 - 110*F).
Our cars run at approx 160 - 200* but average about 180-190. However I have seen my car up to 220 before...on a cold night from idling.
If you wait for the oil to circulate, give it some gas...if it feels kinda sluggish...let it warm up some more. Now In no way did I say floor it and hold it. Rev it to about 3 - 4.5k and see if it stutters around 4kish RPM's.
HOWEVER. That guy's site did make 100% sense and was fully logical...if I had a motorcycle which is recommended to do so by higher end performance bike manufacturers. But to cars, not so much.
Ive always broken in cars the same way, I'll take it for a nice low rpm cruise for about 5-10miles....then in 1st gear, i'll get rpm's to about 4 - 5k RPM...keep it there while in gear...then punch it and go 1st through 3rd....redline to redline. then coast and use the engine as a brake.
As for the hard break ins is 100% correct. However it IS smart not to be hard on it 24/7. Its simple. If you drive it like a race car 95% of the time...then do so during break in periods, however give it some time to rest. Also on that guys site that says alot of problems occur from not letting the engine fully warming up is a complete myth. Technicaly you have to wait long enough for the oil to get circulating at a nice temp. (80 - 110*F).
Our cars run at approx 160 - 200* but average about 180-190. However I have seen my car up to 220 before...on a cold night from idling.
If you wait for the oil to circulate, give it some gas...if it feels kinda sluggish...let it warm up some more. Now In no way did I say floor it and hold it. Rev it to about 3 - 4.5k and see if it stutters around 4kish RPM's.
HOWEVER. That guy's site did make 100% sense and was fully logical...if I had a motorcycle which is recommended to do so by higher end performance bike manufacturers. But to cars, not so much.
Ive always broken in cars the same way, I'll take it for a nice low rpm cruise for about 5-10miles....then in 1st gear, i'll get rpm's to about 4 - 5k RPM...keep it there while in gear...then punch it and go 1st through 3rd....redline to redline. then coast and use the engine as a brake.
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