Buying a LSJ
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Buying a LSJ
Alright guys, the time has finally come for me to buy a SS/SC, and im super excited to finally buy one. What's some common issues and things that i should look for when buying one? The ones im looking at are 100k+ mileage, so whats some common problems around there? Obviously i know clutch and things are going to need replaced soon if they havent already been, and probably supercharger belt, but what else?
Thanks for any feedback
Thanks for any feedback
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
How often should the supercharger belt be replaced? If the car is at like 110k and the belt has never been replaced, should i just go ahead and change it out? And how hard is it to change? Also, may be a stupid question, but i've never owned a boosted car before, is there any kind of special maintenance i need to do for the supercharger or anything like that?
#8
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Helpful tip: take apart the intake manifold and clean the laminovas if you can. The one on mine was disgusting. Leaves and dirt and general **** insides the laminova fins. While you have it apart you may as well do dual pass lol. Many of the LSJs I've seen have never had the supercharger oil changed and the intercooler pump doesn't work and they don't even care.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Wow, how hard is it to change the oil in the supercharger, and what kind of oil do i use? Just full synthetic 5W30? And how would i know if the intercooler pump isn't working?
#10
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
As mentioned above take the neck off the intercooler filler neck with the car on and make sure the fluid is moving.
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Good point, also, couldn't find the kit, just the oil itself, which is alot cheaper then i would have thought. http://zzperformance.com/ecotec/supe...arger-oil.html
#15
Jesse makes a good point about the laminova cores. When I swapped my head I went ahead and did a dual pass and took those things out, they were dirty as hell but they are right in the intake passageways. Float them in some simple green and be very careful with the fins. Also replace that pcv filter thing too if your heading down that pathway and the intake gasket.
#19
Buying a LSJ
Flex pipe on the downpipe is probably what you are hearing. Think thats a lifetime warranty free repair at gm
Spark plugs - go original ngk at .28ish gap
Do some googling on that blower oil change to be sure of exactly what you gotta do. And if you do, while the blowers off and see how the rotor packs look
As mentioned before i.c. pump...
Most suspension will need replacing - struts, sway bar endlinks, control arm bushings for sure, if they havent already.
Otherwise most everything should be good to roll if the car was kept up with and not beaten senseless its whole life haha.
If you feel like the clutch slips try driving it and shifting at 4000+ rpms for a while and see if it stops slipping
Spark plugs - go original ngk at .28ish gap
Do some googling on that blower oil change to be sure of exactly what you gotta do. And if you do, while the blowers off and see how the rotor packs look
As mentioned before i.c. pump...
Most suspension will need replacing - struts, sway bar endlinks, control arm bushings for sure, if they havent already.
Otherwise most everything should be good to roll if the car was kept up with and not beaten senseless its whole life haha.
If you feel like the clutch slips try driving it and shifting at 4000+ rpms for a while and see if it stops slipping
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the input guys, i still havent sold my tC yet, was just wondering what kind of things i shouldnt be worries about. The tC's have valve tick from the variable valve timing, so i wasnt sure if that was normal on anything else
#23
There is a drain plug in the snout of the supercharger. You can find an oil change kit on ZZP's website. It'll make things easier. The oil is NOT conventional oil, it's supercharger oil. It also smells f****** terrible. So buy the ZZP kit with the pump thingy.
As mentioned above take the neck off the intercooler filler neck with the car on and make sure the fluid is moving.
As mentioned above take the neck off the intercooler filler neck with the car on and make sure the fluid is moving.
They will tell you 6 oz. For the M62 on the SS/SC it is 3.4 oz.
Flex pipe on the downpipe is probably what you are hearing. Think thats a lifetime warranty free repair at gm
Spark plugs - go original ngk at .28ish gap
Do some googling on that blower oil change to be sure of exactly what you gotta do. And if you do, while the blowers off and see how the rotor packs look
As mentioned before i.c. pump...
Most suspension will need replacing - struts, sway bar endlinks, control arm bushings for sure, if they havent already.
Otherwise most everything should be good to roll if the car was kept up with and not beaten senseless its whole life haha.
If you feel like the clutch slips try driving it and shifting at 4000+ rpms for a while and see if it stops slipping
Spark plugs - go original ngk at .28ish gap
Do some googling on that blower oil change to be sure of exactly what you gotta do. And if you do, while the blowers off and see how the rotor packs look
As mentioned before i.c. pump...
Most suspension will need replacing - struts, sway bar endlinks, control arm bushings for sure, if they havent already.
Otherwise most everything should be good to roll if the car was kept up with and not beaten senseless its whole life haha.
If you feel like the clutch slips try driving it and shifting at 4000+ rpms for a while and see if it stops slipping
For a stock car go with 0.035" gap.
For your basic modded SS/SC 0.032" works.
OP, remember you want the largest gap possible w/o spark blow out, so play around with which gap works best for your car. The gaps I provided are guidelines.
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
What ever you do... do not follow ZZP's recommended fill amount.
They will tell you 6 oz. For the M62 on the SS/SC it is 3.4 oz.
Wayyyy to small.
For a stock car go with 0.035" gap.
For your basic modded SS/SC 0.032" works.
OP, remember you want the largest gap possible w/o spark blow out, so play around with which gap works best for your car. The gaps I provided are guidelines.
They will tell you 6 oz. For the M62 on the SS/SC it is 3.4 oz.
Wayyyy to small.
For a stock car go with 0.035" gap.
For your basic modded SS/SC 0.032" works.
OP, remember you want the largest gap possible w/o spark blow out, so play around with which gap works best for your car. The gaps I provided are guidelines.
I figured thats what you ment, but i wanted to be sure