Clutch Problems?
03-16-2008, 10:29 AM
#1
Clutch Problems?
Ok guys bare with me as i try and explain this.
My clutch is all free play meaning theres nothing to it till its on teh floor really. When i shift it only grabs when its completely pressed to teh floow then the rest of teh way back to the depressed position its all free. Like its being starved fluid? If i run 5th gear for a long time seems like fluid builds back up in the bearing and works like a clutch should till i shift it a few times. then its back to all free play.
now on My OEM throw out bearing, the part that connects to the hose where you bleed your clutch. (circled in pic) after you remove the hose, if you stick your finger in there theres nothing blocking it. Now my spec bearing, there some sort of springy rock type thing inside, it moves backwards ever so slighty when pressed and when released it moves back. Is this supossed to be there? Fred over at SMG and I are stumped as to why my clutch is this way. Before we rip it apart again we want to make sure that w/e is in there is supossed to be in there or if its supposed to be open like OEM.
And yes that cap was removed before install
anyone?
My clutch is all free play meaning theres nothing to it till its on teh floor really. When i shift it only grabs when its completely pressed to teh floow then the rest of teh way back to the depressed position its all free. Like its being starved fluid? If i run 5th gear for a long time seems like fluid builds back up in the bearing and works like a clutch should till i shift it a few times. then its back to all free play.
now on My OEM throw out bearing, the part that connects to the hose where you bleed your clutch. (circled in pic) after you remove the hose, if you stick your finger in there theres nothing blocking it. Now my spec bearing, there some sort of springy rock type thing inside, it moves backwards ever so slighty when pressed and when released it moves back. Is this supossed to be there? Fred over at SMG and I are stumped as to why my clutch is this way. Before we rip it apart again we want to make sure that w/e is in there is supossed to be in there or if its supposed to be open like OEM.
And yes that cap was removed before install
anyone?
Last edited by mkulrey13; 03-16-2008 at 10:29 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
03-16-2008, 10:44 AM
#6
Senior Member
sure sounds like eomething i have posted before...nice kit with a lutch alignment tool included...exedy make a better clutch i think imho.
'Take the hairpin clip out of the quick disconnect clutch fitting on the bellhousing (behind the air inlet and between the ECU and the engine) and turn it over. You may see in the female q-d orifice, a little O ring in the socket of the q-d. If you do, remove it carefully with a small pick and then put the o ring back on the male post for the q-d which is attached to the bellhousing. Then place the q-d back press firmly, reinstall the hair pin clip and bleed the clutch. I suspect that is the cure for your problem.
'Take the hairpin clip out of the quick disconnect clutch fitting on the bellhousing (behind the air inlet and between the ECU and the engine) and turn it over. You may see in the female q-d orifice, a little O ring in the socket of the q-d. If you do, remove it carefully with a small pick and then put the o ring back on the male post for the q-d which is attached to the bellhousing. Then place the q-d back press firmly, reinstall the hair pin clip and bleed the clutch. I suspect that is the cure for your problem.
03-16-2008, 10:46 AM
#7
Senior Member
I'm just saying, because when I was working on a 2.2 at work a few months ago....I had to replace the master cylinder for the clutch, and it was a pain to get the air out of the system. Same thing was happening to me that was happening to you. I don't see the throw-out bearing itself doing what you are saying.
03-16-2008, 10:46 AM
#8
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Ok guys bare with me as i try and explain this.
My clutch is all free play meaning theres nothing to it till its on teh floor really. When i shift it only grabs when its completely pressed to teh floow then the rest of teh way back to the depressed position its all free. Like its being starved fluid? If i run 5th gear for a long time seems like fluid builds back up in the bearing and works like a clutch should till i shift it a few times. then its back to all free play.
now on My OEM throw out bearing, the part that connects to the hose where you bleed your clutch. (circled in pic) after you remove the hose, if you stick your finger in there theres nothing blocking it. Now my spec bearing, there some sort of springy rock type thing inside, it moves backwards ever so slighty when pressed and when released it moves back. Is this supossed to be there? Fred over at SMG and I are stumped as to why my clutch is this way. Before we rip it apart again we want to make sure that w/e is in there is supossed to be in there or if its supposed to be open like OEM.
And yes that cap was removed before install
anyone?
My clutch is all free play meaning theres nothing to it till its on teh floor really. When i shift it only grabs when its completely pressed to teh floow then the rest of teh way back to the depressed position its all free. Like its being starved fluid? If i run 5th gear for a long time seems like fluid builds back up in the bearing and works like a clutch should till i shift it a few times. then its back to all free play.
now on My OEM throw out bearing, the part that connects to the hose where you bleed your clutch. (circled in pic) after you remove the hose, if you stick your finger in there theres nothing blocking it. Now my spec bearing, there some sort of springy rock type thing inside, it moves backwards ever so slighty when pressed and when released it moves back. Is this supossed to be there? Fred over at SMG and I are stumped as to why my clutch is this way. Before we rip it apart again we want to make sure that w/e is in there is supossed to be in there or if its supposed to be open like OEM.
And yes that cap was removed before install
anyone?
Let me go find the thread I was chatting with a guy about how to fix it.
(note: I still havent got it fixed yet!)
03-16-2008, 10:47 AM
#9
Senior Member
Oh and if it is not that, it would seem some folks on the forum are having problems with the spec replacement clutch and maybe release bearing best to use OEM release bearings...just thought I would lob that grenade and shuffle off....lol
03-16-2008, 10:47 AM
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03-16-2008, 10:50 AM
#11
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Hey red 2.4 in washington did you get it fixed? sucks to have troubles like that especially as its sooooooooooooooooo much hard work to do the trans in/out even if you have a hoist...
03-16-2008, 10:54 AM
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Drove it around quite a bit yesterday. And there was only a short period where it felt like it began to get soft, but then it was fine a couple of engagements later. So, sofar it seems OK. I'll give it a few more days before I declare victory!
I never compared the OEM one as I didn't realize I had a problem until after it was thrown away. I would be interested to find out if that may have something to do with it loosing pressure and feeling like there is air in the system!
Last edited by Red2.4SS; 03-16-2008 at 10:54 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
03-16-2008, 11:01 AM
#14
Senior Member
i guess i should have read more carfully red2.4 sure looks like there is an issue here with the spec clutch parts, but thats a tough thing to say about a vendors parts when no one can see what has really happened on install.
I looked at a clutch job that had been done on a C5 the other day, a professional shop did the work, and wow what a mess...pilot brg shot, missing rollers, oil plug in back of crank damaged and leaking oil, (how did they do that?) hose clips caught in the bellhousing. (sloppy) What i am saying is take your time , do it right, and listen to the forum to be sure about parts you put in . If you cant get a good read on whats good, stick with OEM i think you cant go wrong with GM original parts...or Exedy lol
sure would not want to do a clutch job without a 100% OEM slave cylinder...thats for sure... you get what you pay for and if its cheap it maybe less than you expected....i bet red2.4 has put in a ton of work trying to diagnose and fix his problem...at least 300 bucks worth, the difference between a good and cheap?
I looked at a clutch job that had been done on a C5 the other day, a professional shop did the work, and wow what a mess...pilot brg shot, missing rollers, oil plug in back of crank damaged and leaking oil, (how did they do that?) hose clips caught in the bellhousing. (sloppy) What i am saying is take your time , do it right, and listen to the forum to be sure about parts you put in . If you cant get a good read on whats good, stick with OEM i think you cant go wrong with GM original parts...or Exedy lol
sure would not want to do a clutch job without a 100% OEM slave cylinder...thats for sure... you get what you pay for and if its cheap it maybe less than you expected....i bet red2.4 has put in a ton of work trying to diagnose and fix his problem...at least 300 bucks worth, the difference between a good and cheap?
Last edited by qwikredline; 03-16-2008 at 11:01 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
03-16-2008, 11:05 AM
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i guess i should have read more carfully red2.4 sure looks like there is an issue here with the spec clutch parts, but thats a tough thing to say about a vendors parts when no one can see what has really happened on install.
I looked at a clutch job that had been done on a C5 the other day, a professional shop did the work, and wow what a mess...pilot brg shot, missing rollers, oil plug in back of crank damaged and leaking oil, (how did they do that?) hose clips caught in the bellhousing. (sloppy) What i am saying is take your time , do it right, and listen to the forum to be sure about parts you put in . If you cant get a good read on whats good, stick with OEM i think you cant go wrong with GM original parts...or Exedy lol
sure would not want to do a clutch job without a 100% OEM slave cylinder...thats for sure... you get what you pay for and if its cheap it maybe less than you expected....i bet red2.4 has put in a ton of work trying to diagnose and fix his problem...at least 300 bucks worth, the difference between a good and cheap?
I looked at a clutch job that had been done on a C5 the other day, a professional shop did the work, and wow what a mess...pilot brg shot, missing rollers, oil plug in back of crank damaged and leaking oil, (how did they do that?) hose clips caught in the bellhousing. (sloppy) What i am saying is take your time , do it right, and listen to the forum to be sure about parts you put in . If you cant get a good read on whats good, stick with OEM i think you cant go wrong with GM original parts...or Exedy lol
sure would not want to do a clutch job without a 100% OEM slave cylinder...thats for sure... you get what you pay for and if its cheap it maybe less than you expected....i bet red2.4 has put in a ton of work trying to diagnose and fix his problem...at least 300 bucks worth, the difference between a good and cheap?
It works great after a bleed for a while, but then slowly leaks in air.
The problem is the worst in traffic, where I am constantly pressing the clutch pedal. It seems to take only a dozen reps before it starts getting funny.
If I pump the pedal several times, usually it get better. But its engagement hieght is all over tha place when this happens. Anywhere from right on the floor to nearly at the top of the clutch pedal path.
03-16-2008, 11:19 AM
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I am wondering if that funny buisiness in the slave you are refering to could have something to do with it?
I alread replace my master and had only a small improvement. I paid a shop to bleed it even and the problem still remained.
I will really be pissed if I have to redo everything to replace the entire hydraulic system as a sealed peice. Although I don't know how this can even be done?
I alread replace my master and had only a small improvement. I paid a shop to bleed it even and the problem still remained.
I will really be pissed if I have to redo everything to replace the entire hydraulic system as a sealed peice. Although I don't know how this can even be done?
03-16-2008, 11:20 AM
#18
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I'm going to SMG Autosports tomorrow to get my Spec Stage 2+ installed. But all these threads just serve to scare me...
I hope you find the problem with the clutch install soon and have it fixed. In any case, all my parts are OEM except the clutch (new stock FW & new bearings), so I will let you know how my install goes.
I hope you find the problem with the clutch install soon and have it fixed. In any case, all my parts are OEM except the clutch (new stock FW & new bearings), so I will let you know how my install goes.
03-16-2008, 11:23 AM
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I'm going to SMG Autosports tomorrow to get my Spec Stage 2+ installed. But all these threads just serve to scare me...
I hope you find the problem with the clutch install soon and have it fixed. In any case, all my parts are OEM except the clutch (new stock FW & new bearings), so I will let you know how my install goes.
I hope you find the problem with the clutch install soon and have it fixed. In any case, all my parts are OEM except the clutch (new stock FW & new bearings), so I will let you know how my install goes.
I am pretty certain that the slave that comes with the SPEC clutch is an OEM part. I emailed them and asked about the problem a few weeks ago. They said it is recommended that the entire hydraulic system be replaced with a complete factory bled system.
So I asked then why give me only the slave? Their response was many complained about the higher price, but people still wanted the throwout bearing.
So thats what you get! Just sucks cause had I known abou that before I would have done it differently!
03-16-2008, 11:30 AM
#21
I'm going to SMG Autosports tomorrow to get my Spec Stage 2+ installed. But all these threads just serve to scare me...
I hope you find the problem with the clutch install soon and have it fixed. In any case, all my parts are OEM except the clutch (new stock FW & new bearings), so I will let you know how my install goes.
I hope you find the problem with the clutch install soon and have it fixed. In any case, all my parts are OEM except the clutch (new stock FW & new bearings), so I will let you know how my install goes.
03-16-2008, 12:11 PM
#25
Senior Member
dont you hate it the way the internet publishes threads? here is a mustang forum post:
When I had my spec 3+ and alumn fly put in I also had the BMR K member put on with motor mounts. I feel the same vibration at 1500 rpm but I kinda thought it was because of the motor mounts I could feel more NVH. Its worst at 1500 and goes away pretty fast before or after that rpm. The problem I am having is I think its getting air back into the system somehow. Some times when I start the car the clutch is limp and its hard to get in and out of gear and it grinds as well. But after a little driving its back to normal (I guess) How does it do this...and I am guessing this cant be linked to the vibration at 1500.
Folks if a lot of you have the same problems with the same parts....
When I had my spec 3+ and alumn fly put in I also had the BMR K member put on with motor mounts. I feel the same vibration at 1500 rpm but I kinda thought it was because of the motor mounts I could feel more NVH. Its worst at 1500 and goes away pretty fast before or after that rpm. The problem I am having is I think its getting air back into the system somehow. Some times when I start the car the clutch is limp and its hard to get in and out of gear and it grinds as well. But after a little driving its back to normal (I guess) How does it do this...and I am guessing this cant be linked to the vibration at 1500.
Folks if a lot of you have the same problems with the same parts....