Different rear sedan turn signal?
#1
Different rear sedan turn signal?
In the next few days or weeks I'm going to be installing a different rear bumper on my sedan balt and am wanting to relocate my turn signal to what would be the old the reverse lights which will be moved. What I know that the turn signal is ran with the same wire as the brake light. With it being like that, I'd have to run a wire from the front to the back. Been talking to a friend of mine who knows more about electrical stuff then I, he thinks that since I'd be running a wire that distance, it might not work and might have to just turn the reverse light into another turn signal with a replaced bulb of course.
#2
Its kind of hard to tell what your question is or if you are even asking a question..if its about running a wire front to back, wouldn't it be easier to tap an extra piece of wire from the turn signal wire to wherever it is you're going with it?
#3
No..From front to back with one wire, You won't get a big enough voltage drop for the bulb not to work..Could possibly be dimmer, But it will still light up the bulb........If for some reason it isn't bright enough, Just use a thicker gauge wire for more current to travel
#4
Okay, the question was could I run a wire(s) from the front turn signal(s) to the rear stock reverse light to make it a turn signal. What size wire do you think would work? 12g or 10g?
#5
The turn signal wire is apart of the brake light wire. I asked someone that could look up the wiring harness for me. I know you might be thinking, what would stop the brake light from not blinking while hitting the turn signal. Actually, nothing, but I would like the secondary turn signal not lit up while under braking. I know this sounds was confusing but I think once I figure out the front to back turn signal issue, it'll be alright.
#6
Overkill and i don't have the schematic, But i know someone on here will and here >>
So ill start off by saying from brake to signal the current is actually the same. (This is y the light doesn't get brighter from braking to signal).. The only difference is the relay turning the current on and off ..giving you the flash for your blinkers ...Just so you...esp on dc voltage cuz the current is consistent ...
Those gauges are way to thick (i mean it wouldn't hurt) But maybe do some searching before talking to your buddy ...Put it this way I know that i can run a 4 gauge from my battery to my starter to start my cavalier, But i have to take into account of how far or close the battery is ..So there's an example
Also smaller gauge wire more can travel through it ..but it all depends on what your doing ...I would just put all your values together and see what gauge you need ...All cars i have worked on for taillights are 16 gauge. And the initial power source (battery/alternator) is under the hood.
If VD are a big concern run 14 gauge then, But like i said take everything your adding into account and then see what you would need.
Not sure if your using these or not but for the future >>
My l.e.d rant for everyone
Personal experience/Tip: So you know l.e.ds cut down roughly 35-40% of what you where initially using, But what people don't take into account is (I see this all the time too lol ) If you have to use 12 l.e.d's to make it as bright as 1 incandescent then there really isn't any difference in draw or anything just more lights sources rather than using one, and sometimes there still not as bright.
Also since before l.e.ds became popular, They where meant to be seen and not seen with lmao ...Back in the day they used l.e.d's to tell if the current is on or off in a wire, Very common one you will see today is the little l.e.d on the plug in your washroom GFCi plug ..if not get one its required by law ..
So ill start off by saying from brake to signal the current is actually the same. (This is y the light doesn't get brighter from braking to signal).. The only difference is the relay turning the current on and off ..giving you the flash for your blinkers ...Just so you...esp on dc voltage cuz the current is consistent ...
Those gauges are way to thick (i mean it wouldn't hurt) But maybe do some searching before talking to your buddy ...Put it this way I know that i can run a 4 gauge from my battery to my starter to start my cavalier, But i have to take into account of how far or close the battery is ..So there's an example
Also smaller gauge wire more can travel through it ..but it all depends on what your doing ...I would just put all your values together and see what gauge you need ...All cars i have worked on for taillights are 16 gauge. And the initial power source (battery/alternator) is under the hood.
If VD are a big concern run 14 gauge then, But like i said take everything your adding into account and then see what you would need.
Not sure if your using these or not but for the future >>
My l.e.d rant for everyone
Personal experience/Tip: So you know l.e.ds cut down roughly 35-40% of what you where initially using, But what people don't take into account is (I see this all the time too lol ) If you have to use 12 l.e.d's to make it as bright as 1 incandescent then there really isn't any difference in draw or anything just more lights sources rather than using one, and sometimes there still not as bright.
Also since before l.e.ds became popular, They where meant to be seen and not seen with lmao ...Back in the day they used l.e.d's to tell if the current is on or off in a wire, Very common one you will see today is the little l.e.d on the plug in your washroom GFCi plug ..if not get one its required by law ..
#7
I think what I'll end up doing and it seems to be a little easier on everything is to work with the rear wiring harness. I'll cut the wires to the reverse light in the the housing and run the harness wires to the new light source for the back up lights. Replace the bulb to red and splice into the brake/turn signal. This way I'll have two brake/turn signal lights.
I believe in the long run this will be a better solution and unique-ish look. Not much you can do with sedan tails and not many good ones to pick from. Might pick up another set of stocks to customize more down the line too. Thanks for your input T-fog.
I believe in the long run this will be a better solution and unique-ish look. Not much you can do with sedan tails and not many good ones to pick from. Might pick up another set of stocks to customize more down the line too. Thanks for your input T-fog.
#8
No prob man anytime, If i could i would recommend a very small screw driver and take the connector apart ..just depin the connector,Then re run the wire to the new location ....This way you save stock wiring for resale and save mechanics headaches of trying to figure out what and why this wire was cut and blah blah
Or use this idea to run your signal feed from the front to the rear of the car. (Also you can add a wire or 2, Just be cautious they fit and the connector clip will still snap and/or lock the wires in to secure a good connection)
But because the connector and clips clearance is so small i wouldn't recommend 14 gauge, cuz of all the stress it would cause and i don't know if it maybe fit or not.
I have always tried to do this and it also avoids having to mess with a soldering gun and/or butt connectors and all that fun jazz .. Sometimes its quicker too
Link to what i'm talking about..Enjoy and keep us posted...
Or use this idea to run your signal feed from the front to the rear of the car. (Also you can add a wire or 2, Just be cautious they fit and the connector clip will still snap and/or lock the wires in to secure a good connection)
But because the connector and clips clearance is so small i wouldn't recommend 14 gauge, cuz of all the stress it would cause and i don't know if it maybe fit or not.
I have always tried to do this and it also avoids having to mess with a soldering gun and/or butt connectors and all that fun jazz .. Sometimes its quicker too
Link to what i'm talking about..Enjoy and keep us posted...
Last edited by T-fog; 03-08-2014 at 01:13 PM.
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