ok maybe I'll buy the stage 1 then

 

i'm putting it on this weekend, well once i figure out exact tq specs for the bolts, and what side of the mount i put the spacer on o.O haha

 

Torque specs should be in the how to, spacer goes under the rear mount

 

hah nooo not the keyhole spacer, the single black spacer that came with it..

 

No pictures I just dont feel like plowing through photobucket. Greeny email me so I can email this

Over the past 9 years, we have made four types of rotated mounts:

• stock housing rotated mounts with aluminum and composite centers, specifically for racing with terrible vibrations.
• aluminum 4130 machined with A class voided bushing all LNF 2008-2010 /LSJ 2005/2007 includes Cobalt and Ion Redline except 2004

• steel dom machined and welded with A class voided bushing all LNF/LSJ and similar construction with different pick up points for 2004 Ion Redline
• stock composite housing pressed and inserted with A class voided bushing all F23 trans Cobalt/Ion 2005-2010
All these mounts are designed to lift the motor at the rear, lower the position of the motor at the front, and allow the torque axis upper mounts to reposition. There are two stages: stage 1 is a replacement front mount and a keyhole rear mount insert to space the stock mount upwards. Stage 1 is recommended for almost all use. Stage 1.5 if you like, includes an LNF stock rear mount for folks with LSJ or F23 transmission cars who want a little more stability.
Stage 2 includes everything in stage 1 save that the keyhole spacer is not needed, as the rise is built into the mount.


1. M35 rotated mounts and F23 rotated mounts.
Sometimes I have gotten feedback that folks have installed rotated mounts and have vibrations. That really should not happen, although the mounts will not have the same isolation as stock, the inserts are stiffer and there is no real way around that.

The reason behind the mounts is to stop power hop, caused in part by too much angle in the cv joint. The manual shift cars are not positioned in line axle out put to knuckle center line. To fix this, the mounts rotate the motor up at the back, down at the front, to move the axle out put shafts in better alignment with the axle output flange at the knuckle. The rotation was developed and engineered with help from GM, when I was under contract to produce Cobalt road race cars in 2004/2005.
So you know, some vendors copied my mounts. Some other vendors produce “rotated “ mounts that in fact are stock orientation, not rotated at all.
That said, I will be happy to help and advise both my customers and non customers, who have issues with mount installation, as best I can. My mounts are genuine Powell hardcore race parts.

I also know a lot more about these mounts than most folks do. Its easy, I drive the delta platform and work on the platform every day servicing customer cars, and working on race cars and my own car.



Please understand that the rotated mount concept exploits the soft driver side torque axis mount, without repositioning it, but the best installs reposition both the drivers and the passenger side mount as the shoulder bolts that secure these mounts have large holes in the mount that permits relocation.

Also note that the automatic transmission Delta's do not need this type of rotation, the car was designed for the automatic, and the manual transmissions happen to be about 15 mm out of axle alignment by comparison. I have been working for over a year on a firmer automatic trans mount system; no need to rotate them, but may need to raise the motor for extreme slammed lowering spring set ups. Not done yet.




Here we go:

Today I installed a stage 1 mount in an LSJ . I did it, not on the hoist as we normally do, but on four jack stands, figuring that is the way most folks will do it on their own.

1. First job is to get the car properly secured , well up in the air and on 4 jack stands. Then using a piece of wood to spread jacking load, gently support the engine at the transmission differential area.

NOTE it is extremely important to lift the rear part of the transaxle assembly, and to make sure the rear mount is not locked on the cross bolt, otherwise there is a risk of cross threading the 3 long bolts that attach the rear mount to the cradle.

Now go up top and release a couple/three turns the top passenger side mount bolts. (15 mm socket)



2. Now go underneath and remove the 3 bolts that go through the cradle pedestal (15 mm socket)

Then release the three rear motor mount bolts that locate the entire rear mount bracket to the transmission bell housing.

3. you will notice the bolts in all these cases have shoulders. That's important. Also don't remove all the bolts from the rear mount bracket. If you do for any reason, be sure to start each bolt by hand /don't tighten one bolt hard and then the next. The bracket will distort and make installation difficult.







4. Now raise the rear of the motor (the jack is already in position) and install the keyhole spacer (stage 1). Then lower the motor and replace the 3 long pedestal bolts by hand, not tight.


4 A
NOTE: If installing stage 2 mounts remove the entire rear mount bracket, (use a Christmas tree fastener removal tool to remover the 02 sensor clips) install the new rear mount, which does not require a key hole spacer, do not tighten the cross bolt and the re-install the bracket and mount assembly complete with heat shield. Leaving out the heat shield can result in melted rubber/composite mount inserts. Make sure the shift cables are routed correctly, and not trapped by the taller rear mount
My favorite mount combination for any Cobalt manual trans car (except the LNF turbo) is to use our stage 1 with an LNF rear mount. This combo still requires a rear spacer, other wise the 4A information is correct.





5. Go to the front. Reposition the jack so it is forward under the pan/bell housing area.

6. Remove the front mount completely.

7. Then offer up the new front mount and start the two bolts that secure the mount to the transmission. Snug them up but not tight.

8. Now lower the motor so the mount lines up with the through bolt holes, place the spacers provided, one each side, and snug the cross bolt.
NOTE: ALLOY AND COMPOSITE ROTATED MOUNTS HAVE TWO SPACERS ONE EACH SIDE OF THE CROSS BOLT INSERT. ALL STEEL ROTATED MOUNTS HAVE ONLY ONE SPACER. OEM MOUNTS HAVE NO SPACERS AT THE CROSS BOLT INSERT.






NOTE: there are four mounts on any delta. The front and rear ones are quite firm, rubber inserts with voids.

The top mounts, are actually referred to as “torque axis” mounts. The passenger one is quite firm the drivers side is very soft. Very soft. So when on jack stands, its possible for the motor to slide over to the soft side and compress the new front mount to one side.

This could be left that way, and stack the two spacers together, BUT if you do this the motor will not be “balanced” on the mounts and excessive vibration may result. Re position the jack, and using a lever move the motor assembly back to the passenger side and place the spacers correctly on each side of the mount.

9. Now all the mounts are in place, torque all the fasteners, starting the rear lower, the rear bracket, the front mount and then back up to the top.


average torque is about 40 ft lbs...individual specific torque values can be found by searching : 37 rear mounts 15 mm head/42 for most others/76 for the rear cross bolt ,etc.

10. If working on a 2.2 f23 manual, with our F23 mount set, this is a composite mount with 4 bolt mounting to trans and engine. On the F23 access is convenient, and you can also loosen the both the passenger and driver side mount bracket bolts (there are three each side ) to help balance the motor. It is a good thing to also do this on LSJ and LNF assemblies; but the drivers side mount is very soft and compliant.

If you have our Redline 2004 mount or our all new steel LSJ/LNF stage 1 mounts, there is only one spacer and new hardware provided for attaching to the trans unit along with the “keyhole” rear spacer.

 

S1 is perfect for you guys. Your stock mounts are stiffer/better than the LSJ's. That's why I run a Powell S1 rotated mount, and SS/TC rear trans mount.

lol, yeah I was pressing against my fiance's jeep with my feet to get some leverage.

 

Sub'd

 

[QUOTE=Staged07SS;7074727]S1 is perfect for you guys. Your stock mounts are stiffer/better than the LSJ's. That's why I run a Powell S1 rotated mount, and SS/TC rear trans mount.
I am going to that route.

 

I have the HC bar and have issues with it rubbing/clattering against the car's chassis. Did John come out with some spacers to fix this issue? If not what size washer should I get?
I'll probably upgrade to the XXX later this year, but I can't stand the noise anymore ;-)

 

when and where did you buy this bar? It must be five years old. Try contacting me via email and send pictures.

 

I bought it from you in March of 2011. I'll take some pictures tonight and email em to you!

 

Apparently I completely missed this thread from around the time I bought my HC bar. I'm guessing mine was one from the batch before this issue was resolved:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/08-1...ubbing-245055/

It seems to address the exact issue I'm having. I've always thought it was my Sportline springs but a mechanic pointed out the sway bar hitting the V-beam last week. Again, I'll email pictures tonight. Thanks John!

 

send me pictures, email gloria@powellraceparts.com with proof of purchase, I will replace it , on exchange with our latest v.3, hc or xXx, no charge (but you pay shipping returns ship to 14303) what color is it?
cheers.

 

Can't wait to have some of these parts on my car in the future. Tow hooks are calling my name.

 

You don't find stand up service like this anymore, anywhere! The prs team stand behind their work and this is a fine example.

 

+1.

Powell gets two .

 

Wow. This is why I love buying from you guys! The best parts and the best service!!
I'm emailing the pics in a minute. I was thinking of upgrading to the XXX, would you recommend that one over the HC for road racing? Oh and the color of mine is red

Thank you so much Gloria & John, that is incredible service on a 2-year old part!!!

Powell = win

 

This is why Powell is the man, and why I'll pay the minor cost extra to have a Powell part over a competitor. Well that and his parts are better anyway.

 

Just spoke with John, and he is getting a red hardcore sway bar ready for me. Can't wait to get it next month once my 30th birthday cash rolls in

 

Didn't you just buy the XXX? haha

If so, i'll buy it off you!

 

old fart

 

Youngin. Still getting birthday money?

 

Haha, I'm glad you called me youngin cuz hearing 30 was starting to make me feel old.

You better believe it I get B-day money!!



You better send me some birthday money!!!!

I want monies!!!!

What?? Where did you see that??

I think you've got me and 07Metallic mixed up.

I don't have a Powell bar yet.

 

You'll love it.

 

I cant wait. I'm just getting into suspension, since I'm done with power mods (for now).

It should be a nice addition.