For discussion of all things Powell!!
08-01-2013 | 12:06 AM
#576
cool ait2 temps. hate to make them. there are a few out there, mine and one i built into a car locally in 2007 still working well. i am dual pass at the moment, getting ready to do a temperature study over a few months before fall.
08-01-2013 | 12:06 AM
#577
Thanks for the info John! So at this time it's still experimental then? Can you run a stainless line with stock routing? Sick of the gunk on outside think its time to change lol. I run my car all year long btw if that helps in snow and salt. I also hope to keep it forever though
08-01-2013 | 12:13 AM
#578
running a stainless line instead of a rubber hose with stock PCV does absolutely nothing. If your hose is cracked and you are leaking vented oil you just need to replace the hose.
Last edited by Powell Race Parts; 08-01-2013 at 12:26 AM.
08-01-2013 | 12:27 AM
#580
If you have issues with crankcase blow by and oil in the throttle body, then first thing is to do a leak down test to determine engine health. Just as you cant tune a motor with check engine lites or a broken intercooler pump, you cant deal with PCV issues without understanding if there is excess blow by from broken rings damaged pistons or leaking valves. Just saying...
08-01-2013 | 12:31 AM
#581
stainless or black fabric, the hose looks good and the positive AN hose connectors are a joy to work with compared to barbed fittings and hose clamps. and everything does look cleaner no doubt. I am now considering removing the strut tower isolation covering on my Redline. its a crummy job and is best done in winter, but InfraRedline's clean towers are awesome and an inspiration ! lol
08-01-2013 | 12:40 AM
#583
08-01-2013 | 03:57 AM
#585
That guy Shael Rosen came to me for a trans rebuild ( a failed rebuild from another shop) we fixed it, he came back with a speedo jumping. Said it was the trans fault. I drove it. Clearly it was
not the trans. He was mad about it I offered to pull the trans and open it and if as I said it was not broken he would pay for the work. He left.
Earlier I sold him the ex Matty Omiotek mounts I got to dissect and figure out what TTR had done to copy, along with material analysis. They had been sitting around for three years and i sold them for like 25 bucks.
I saw that post and decided to take the high road.
the same guy Rosen is a James Rake nutswinger.
Funnily enough, he also posted his motor blew up.
click
not the trans. He was mad about it I offered to pull the trans and open it and if as I said it was not broken he would pay for the work. He left.
Earlier I sold him the ex Matty Omiotek mounts I got to dissect and figure out what TTR had done to copy, along with material analysis. They had been sitting around for three years and i sold them for like 25 bucks.
I saw that post and decided to take the high road.
the same guy Rosen is a James Rake nutswinger.
Funnily enough, he also posted his motor blew up.
click
this....bought them to try as i got them for cheap since ttr wanted testers.....hated them. john gave me a good exchange so we could analyze the junk. needless to say they they proved to just be that and john and i had a thread going that was later locked. john got sick of them being oversized paper weights. they can talk **** all they want on their teenage facebook page since it keeps their nieve nonsense off here.
08-01-2013 | 08:58 AM
#586
this....bought them to try as i got them for cheap since ttr wanted testers.....hated them. john gave me a good exchange so we could analyze the junk. needless to say they they proved to just be that and john and i had a thread going that was later locked. john got sick of them being oversized paper weights. they can talk **** all they want on their teenage facebook page since it keeps their nieve nonsense off here.
Did he(they) miss the part where John did it FIRST?
John, where's the time machine you used to copy ttr? I'm sure there's tons of future things we could copy!
08-01-2013 | 10:16 AM
#590
tyler replacing the line is best to go stock. If you really want to do it right, its 350 for a complete oil seperator PCV set up. You have to tell me what intake tube you have so I can provide the correct AN6 male fitting to match your inlet tube. If aftermarket alloy or steel need outside diameter of the pcv line- maybe 1/2 inch....
08-01-2013 | 11:00 AM
#591
tyler replacing the line is best to go stock. If you really want to do it right, its 350 for a complete oil seperator PCV set up. You have to tell me what intake tube you have so I can provide the correct AN6 male fitting to match your inlet tube. If aftermarket alloy or steel need outside diameter of the pcv line- maybe 1/2 inch....
Got your Email John. Thanks for the order.
08-01-2013 | 11:07 AM
#592
For a pure street car im not sure how i feel about them because on the street they are pretty much an invisible mod imho. dont get me wrong. they dont make noise and they are 150% street worthy. by all means though if your stock bushings wear out get these as replacements.
now for a street/spirited track day car i think these are 100% worth it. they allow the beam to travel emensly more and with a twisting beam style car its needed. now to give an example here... if you have stock bushings you can drop your shocks and it will kind of hang out at an 45 angle. try doing that with these bushings in there the beam will fall to a complete 90 degree angle to the trunk floor.
so my 2 cents here is im 100% satisfied for what these have done for me and i push the car at the limits with a xxx bar out back and just like my xxx control arms i love how the car feels. they do the job in the front and this definately does the job in the rear. my tires stay planted to the ground.
now for a street/spirited track day car i think these are 100% worth it. they allow the beam to travel emensly more and with a twisting beam style car its needed. now to give an example here... if you have stock bushings you can drop your shocks and it will kind of hang out at an 45 angle. try doing that with these bushings in there the beam will fall to a complete 90 degree angle to the trunk floor.
so my 2 cents here is im 100% satisfied for what these have done for me and i push the car at the limits with a xxx bar out back and just like my xxx control arms i love how the car feels. they do the job in the front and this definately does the job in the rear. my tires stay planted to the ground.
Amanda in Grand Prairie Alberta has them in her Cobalt LS it was cheaper to use those and do a brake conversion to disc than fix it the OEM way. All good.
I run them. All good.
HalfPenny and Wangspeed have them, I am sending them the latest updates; Matty has a time attack rear beam with a clamping rear bushing. Stock beams have a simple tube and I had to revise the inserts to stop them walking in the beam.
as far as operation and NVH, really acceptable trade off and not noisy much at all, Harshness is there you hear the tar strips and even feel them sometimes. Thats the trade off, spherical to rubber inserts.
I run them. All good.
HalfPenny and Wangspeed have them, I am sending them the latest updates; Matty has a time attack rear beam with a clamping rear bushing. Stock beams have a simple tube and I had to revise the inserts to stop them walking in the beam.
as far as operation and NVH, really acceptable trade off and not noisy much at all, Harshness is there you hear the tar strips and even feel them sometimes. Thats the trade off, spherical to rubber inserts.
John in a couple weeks i will be placing an order for the rear bushing and the spherical CABs
08-01-2013 | 12:12 PM
#594
Senior Member
Joined: 03-13-07
Posts: 1,586
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, Ohio
08-01-2013 | 07:57 PM
#598
