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Old 08-19-2013 | 07:04 PM
  #651  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by Sox-Fan
It would be your time. I got plenty of that.
Check valve and problem is over email
Old 08-19-2013 | 07:15 PM
  #652  
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From: Mt. Pleasant S.C.
Yup, got your email the other day. I was just thinking of possible ways to keep the checkvalve in drain back state as often as possible.

send me a bill for my oil pan so we can ship that and the check valve together, would ya?
Old 08-19-2013 | 07:29 PM
  #653  
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From: Land of Freedom
John I emailed Gloria last week, and aside from my wedding talk, passed her on that I was a greenlight for the steering setup we had talked about in that other thread.

between this setup and wheels for next year, aside from built motor and head im stoked this car is getting closer and closer to my final build dream of it. I want to wrap this thing up so I can work on an Sdime
Old 08-19-2013 | 07:34 PM
  #654  
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Kev, baffled oil pan..... mwah!
Old 08-19-2013 | 07:42 PM
  #655  
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whys that? I don't do anything but highway pulls in the car, and even those are few and far between
Old 08-19-2013 | 08:02 PM
  #656  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by 07MetallicSC
John I emailed Gloria last week, and aside from my wedding talk, passed her on that I was a greenlight for the steering setup we had talked about in that other thread.

between this setup and wheels for next year, aside from built motor and head im stoked this car is getting closer and closer to my final build dream of it. I want to wrap this thing up so I can work on an Sdime
Yup I put in a ticket for the machining it wont be quick he is one man down with a totally wrecked shoulder from atv crap.
Old 08-19-2013 | 08:06 PM
  #657  
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Originally Posted by Sox-Fan
Kev, baffled oil pan..... mwah!
I think this will be my next upgrade before I start auto-x or road racing rather be safe then sorry
Old 08-19-2013 | 08:12 PM
  #658  
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From: Land of Freedom
Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
Yup I put in a ticket for the machining it wont be quick he is one man down with a totally wrecked shoulder from atv crap.
trust me by all means take your time/tell him take his with this. Im getting married in 34 days, and get away after etc, I wont have any time otherwise in the mean time. No rush by any means bud

Any idea how far closer will this be from the current wheel to driver?
Old 08-19-2013 | 08:15 PM
  #659  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by 07MetallicSC
trust me by all means take your time/tell him take his with this. Im getting married in 34 days, and get away after etc, I wont have any time otherwise in the mean time. No rush by any means bud

Any idea how far closer will this be from the current wheel to driver?
2 inches. Unless I change it for you. Please let me know what you wish cheers
Old 08-19-2013 | 08:19 PM
  #660  
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From: Land of Freedom
2 inches is fine. I have short legs, so I sit closer to the wheel than my fiancé who has longer legs and annoyingly moves my seat back all the time reminding me I have short legs haha.

Possible to have it wrinkled black when it returns before shipment?

Also what wheel do you have and where was it purchased? And also what are the buttons hooked up for? not concerned about radio controls ( havnt worked since I bought the car due to upgraded screen ) and I don't care for cruise either since I never use it. Possible to set up a two step on it?
Old 08-19-2013 | 08:31 PM
  #661  
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Just got my Triple X bar. Man, it's bigger than the front bar on my G8!
Old 08-19-2013 | 08:47 PM
  #662  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by 07MetallicSC
2 inches is fine. I have short legs, so I sit closer to the wheel than my fiancé who has longer legs and annoyingly moves my seat back all the time reminding me I have short legs haha.

Possible to have it wrinkled black when it returns before shipment?

Also what wheel do you have and where was it purchased? And also what are the buttons hooked up for? not concerned about radio controls ( havnt worked since I bought the car due to upgraded screen ) and I don't care for cruise either since I never use it. Possible to set up a two step on it?
Yes they are pc'd textured black. included. I use my buttons for the horn on the right side and the PTT (push to talk) for the car to pit radio. You need a horn, and you could use the other one for a two step i imagine.
Its a sparco mugello steering wheel I can ship you this one off my car if you want, for a little extra lol.
Old 08-19-2013 | 09:14 PM
  #663  
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From: OR
Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
Ok email me pictures with the dimensions of the bolt holes. Should be okay to use out current bolt plates just want to be sure before I ship them put
sweet will do. might not be able to get to them for a few days but ill e-mail you as soon as i can.
Old 08-19-2013 | 09:32 PM
  #664  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by Sox-Fan
Yup, got your email the other day. I was just thinking of possible ways to keep the checkvalve in drain back state as often as possible.

send me a bill for my oil pan so we can ship that and the check valve together, would ya?
okay contact gloria@powellraceparts.com so she can deal with it while i concentrate on production lol
Old 08-19-2013 | 10:18 PM
  #665  
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From: Land of Freedom
Hmm really.... How much extra?
Old 08-21-2013 | 06:37 AM
  #666  
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Looking for some more feedback on this.
I am getting oil on my upper tmap sensor and if not cleaned every two days I seem to go into limp mode at about 1 psi on the highway gm says oil cannot cause this though
Old 08-21-2013 | 09:18 AM
  #667  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by bigjacksauto
Looking for some more feedback on this.
I am getting oil on my upper tmap sensor and if not cleaned every two days I seem to go into limp mode at about 1 psi on the highway gm says oil cannot cause this though
Its hard to give you good advice, except to say that excessive oil in the intake is no good. If you are tuned or if you have somehow got damaged pistons, then all bets are off.

You have to check engine health before jumping to wild conclusions. The dealer should know this. Do an engine leak down test and then check back in. Clean valves and a PCV upgrade are strongly recommended by me ....of course.
Old 08-21-2013 | 12:28 PM
  #668  
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Its. Stock with a gmtu with the vacuum pump electric add on for brakes.
Car is babied not beat on.
I will check into the leak down first.
Thanks
Old 08-21-2013 | 01:14 PM
  #669  
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Originally Posted by ECaulk
I think this will be my next upgrade before I start auto-x or road racing rather be safe then sorry
I can vouch for that. I have 1-inch sized pieces of rod bearing I found at the bottom of my oil pan...
With Powell's pcv separator and oil pan, a half quart more oil and a slightly thicker grade when going to the track I think I've taken all precautions to prevent re-occurrence
Old 08-21-2013 | 01:29 PM
  #670  
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Originally Posted by colodude18
I can vouch for that. I have 1-inch sized pieces of rod bearing I found at the bottom of my oil pan...
With Powell's pcv separator and oil pan, a half quart more oil and a slightly thicker grade when going to the track I think I've taken all precautions to prevent re-occurrence
You're actually the reason I'm gonna be safer than sorry, would hate to go through the same stuff you did
Old 08-25-2013 | 11:17 PM
  #671  
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Installed my PCV separator yesterday. I tried doing it with a stock OEM airbox and it was a huge pain in the rear. I had to end up cutting off the top fitting by a half inch, tapping it with a 3/8NPT, reinstalling the straight fitting (as the bottom port HAD to have the two 45 degree fittings or else it would contact the engine mount), turning the bottom fitting in another turn, and then dremeling off a section of the airbox on the front hinge as well as a tab the lower arm.

I ended up cracking the turbo port on the PCV separator too. I apparently am an idiot...but some RTV and tape ended up fixing that problem just fine. The valve cover tapping was very easy as well as the turbo fitting install. The only thing that concerns me is the lower hose fitting is contacting the side of the engine mount so I hope it doesn't vibrate things apart...

It must be noted that the customer service John provided me through the whole process was absolutely top notch. He emailed me back idea's and possible solutions within hours of emailing him, even on the weekend., He also offered to send me a new bottom half to the separator once I get my whole fuel trim thing figured out. Super nice of him since it was my fault! That is customer service!

Pictures of how I had it set up:

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Old 08-29-2013 | 05:55 AM
  #672  
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great pictures thanks for sharing.
John are there mods that you are planning to make to the kit in the future for a stock airbox

also would I have the same issue with my stock hhr ss airbox?


this kit does not effect the fuel trims does it?
Old 08-29-2013 | 06:07 AM
  #673  
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Originally Posted by Powell Race Parts
Its hard to give you good advice, except to say that excessive oil in the intake is no good. If you are tuned or if you have somehow got damaged pistons, then all bets are off.

You have to check engine health before jumping to wild conclusions. The dealer should know this. Do an engine leak down test and then check back in. Clean valves and a PCV upgrade are strongly recommended by me ....of course.
ok not tuned engine health is fine

just curious if the true pcv valve which is located either in or under the intake manifold is bad and allowing oil to be pushed into intake under boost situations .
I am assuming your kit would not fix this but possibly would help?
But of course pcv valve should be replaced first.
I guess from years of building v8 race motors N/a sometimes but mainly Nitrous and or supercharged engines I fully understand the pcv sytems in these cars and when you can and cannot use the pcv setups and different ways of modifying the v8s crankcase ventilation.
still trying to fully understand the flow of this system completely and how your kit does such a great job.
is there a drawing showing airflow during vacuum and boost of your setup.
Old 08-29-2013 | 09:27 AM
  #674  
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From: Port Perry
Originally Posted by bigjacksauto
ok not tuned engine health is fine

just curious if the true pcv valve which is located either in or under the intake manifold is bad and allowing oil to be pushed into intake under boost situations .
I am assuming your kit would not fix this but possibly would help?
But of course pcv valve should be replaced first.
I guess from years of building v8 race motors N/a sometimes but mainly Nitrous and or supercharged engines I fully understand the pcv sytems in these cars and when you can and cannot use the pcv setups and different ways of modifying the v8s crankcase ventilation.
still trying to fully understand the flow of this system completely and how your kit does such a great job.
is there a drawing showing airflow during vacuum and boost of your setup.
fresh air goes in from the check valved line between the maf and the turbo, to the back center of the rocker cover. travels to the base of the motor.

fresh air enters the inlet manifold through the checkvalved inlet manifold to cylinder head port under vacuum.

vented blow by gasses exit from the top of the rocker cover back passenger side to the turbo inlet.

check valves are therefore present in two locations.

orifices are sized in the fresh air, the vent outlets to create vacuum

system is designed to stay in vacuum under all conditions including boost.

in reality under extended wot the system does not stay in vacuum under boost.

The only engine health check that works for me is a leakdown test,. anything higher than 20% its unlikely that the engine is staying in vacuum while in boost. 99.9% of all DI engines suffer from coked inlet valves and eventually the engine wont run right.

The check valves are very good and robust in this motor; the fresh air nipple in the air inlet tube to the inlet manifold often breaks, and lets in air. There is a revised fresh air tube available from GM. Kappa LNF this nipple breaks often but the Cobalt upgrade does not fit.

OUr PCV upgrade now comes with a check valved oil return.The engines dont stay in vacuum, particularly if the turbo has been changed.
If the motor tilts 5 degrees to the rear ( nose up) significant oil will be ingested into the intake via the turbo inlet.

There is a drain built into the stock intercooler.

Oil vented out of the rocker cover goes to a seperator; excess oil gets seperated and returned to the crankcase. Seperated oil less air is returned to the turbo inlet. Valve cocking is reduced. Orifice sizing in the return preserves desired vacuum.

check valves have to be capable of closing at very low positive pressure, about .5 psi or so. Folks who buy the system are provided full instructions and diagrams. Hope this helps. "LNF valve gunk" thread provides a lot of information.
Old 08-29-2013 | 09:39 AM
  #675  
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hey powell... is there a way to install your front tow hook without taking off the front bumper? Seems like there isn't any clearance.

BTW i have a zzp heat exchanger but it sits far enough back where it's not in the way.



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