Question: Does the "PRS ALL SPHERICAL FE5 arms" include the T & L CABS listed above it?

T CABS Trailing 199.00 Set last forever lifetime warranty as long as you own the car.
L CABS Leading CABS 249.00 pair
PRS ALL SPHERICAL FE5 arms 900.00 pair. includes all hardware joints, new arms.

Also, if I have a stock 2010 SS should I spend the $900 to replace all arms? Or just the $450 for the CABS? Sorry if this has been covered, but I figured i could group it with the first question above.

 

1- yes
2- that's your call. If you don't need new control arms why buy them? Most people only need the trailing cabs as well. 2010 I would bet you only need the t-cabs. Just a guess though as I don't know your situation

 

The 900 all spherical are special deal, OEM arms with the leading bushing machined and internally circliped with a spherical joint stainless pin and composite grease caps.

You can do 199 + 245 + 160 pair of ebay chiwanese alloy arms of you want to save money plus shipping.

^^^ this. correct.

 

YYZ V.3 springs are on the way from CED, fun times ahead!

 

^^^ troof

 

Got them mounted up and went for a quick test drive. Even with snow tires they feel extremely responsive. Can't wait to try them out in the summer when the conditions are right.

Shout out to CED for having these to my door step within a day and a half of purchasing them.

 

 

^^ emperor is it you waiting for the UCR hardware? I have everything ready boxed and need a shipping address, and cant find the email for the guy who needs the stuff (FML) I changed to Gmail and cant find stuff like I used to find it with Outlook and I just am not geek enough to do this computer stuff well...

 

YYZ SPRING summary:
v.1 and all the other variants have the same rising (progressive) spring rate and ride quality. The trim height of v.1 is .25 inches front and .75 inches rear HIGHER than all the other variants The front/rear rake was higher with v.1 to help race track turn-in, drag strip launch, and also help HHR which are 300 lbs heavier in the rear than the Cobalt. We made the v.1 springs at a trim ride height at slightly less than stock TC and folks werent happy, wanted more low. ..

v.2 the spring wire diameter was changed to achieve .25 front and .75 rear LOWER to satisfy the "more low" folks. We had found we didnt need as much rake up at the back with folks using our rear sway bars, so that was good; also the rear coils were made larger at the pigtail to help get the isolators on.

Well, folks complained that the isolator fit was TOO loose at the rear pigtail. SO pigtails were tightened up at the rear on the next run, v.3

v.3 was same as v.2 but, like I just said, the rear pigtail was tightened back up to be snug on the isolator, and the plant manufacturing location changed from Logansport IN to Pokotok MIS; but powdercoating and etching was still done at Logansport. The etcher made a mistake and v.3 was labeled v.4 ( wow its hard to keep this straight!).

V.5 are made in MIS, pc'd and etched in MIS, same as v.3 /v.4, and are heading this week(!) to Illinois where we keep our inventory so purchasers dont get Canadian border costs added in.

thats the summary. Thanks for choosing or considering genuine Powell hardcore raceparts!

 

So v3 and v4 are the same, and you went along with it and made v5?

 

Set up your gmail account in Outlook using IMAP settings. You can use most all of the features of Outlook this way.

 

SENDIN this info to Gloria she is the resident geek, currently on holiday in San Francisco lol.thanks for the tip.

 

I think his versions after v1 are more like batch numbers

 

trying to understand your post. "went along with it"...

v.3 identifies the run, the rear spring pigtail and the change in manufacturing plant. The etcher made a mistake and labeled them v.4. I did not notice this until I installed a set.

Shall I go beat the crap out of the etcher for making a mistake and recall all the springs? NO, of course not.

I just explain to folks what happened.

v.5 identifies springs that are a result of the completed move of Hyperco manufacturing operations from Indiana to Mississippi, and now all final work is done there.

 

...ya it was me, hell ya though let me shoot you a PM

 

I understand now

 

shoulda gone out today but snow stopped the truck. so tomorrow cheers

copy that

 

whoot whoot thanks john

 

Loving my YYZ and Koni combo after finally finding a few dry patches of road to play on, now where's that pesky XxX bar I ordered

 

what bar? lol

 

Just a reminder for you all; jp rocks.

 

I am sure this has been mentioned a lot but I cannot find the answer for the life of me. I have an 06 ss/sc. looking to do a brembo front conversion. have stock lsj wheels. i know i would need spacers and hear i will need extended studs. what else do i need? I read somewhere that powell also sells this conversion. any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Crate engine depot. full kit. LSJ needs hub and wheel spacers, and new hoses and fasteners. No need for longer studs unless you have aftermarket wheel bearings which have shorter than OEM wheel studs ( beware)

Tom has it all.(key music)" I used to sell them/ but I dont sell them anymore/"

Tom@crateenginedepot.com does.

 

Behind LSJ wheels I'd run a 5mm spacer. I run that and don't have any issue behind my winter wheels.

 

So yesterday I was at the fab shop looking at the latest run of sway bars, and reviewing wassup.
Steve who bends the bars does a fantastic job; these bars are always true, parallel and in the jig for machining the bars never vary more than 1/8 of an inch. Thats incredible work from Steve, who is a second generation "tube bender" with business from all over north america. This is chrome alloy material from Germany, and very difficult material to bend correctly.

Then to Dan the master fabi, who jigs, machines and tig welds the bars. He makes the jigs. Heck he even made the CA plasma cutter, even the ceramic tumbler to clean the parts prior to welding.

I have to be cautious with pictures of the process, too many copy cats out there. But
here is the tumbler cleaning the sleeves for the sway bar cross section mounting points.


its a home depot tub lol



The nut plates are plasma cut then the parts are placed in a jig with mechanical lock nuts and welded.

Each part then is checked for thread engagement, powdercoated and assembled into the bar with anti seize coated cad plated 10.9 grade hardware, ready to ship.

Its a similar process for UnderCarRails. Next to the sway bar and cabs these are my favorite parts, as they not only stiffen the structure, they provide a nifty jacking point which saves beating up the structure of the car just to jack it up. UCR are also made from Chromealloy material. Sure at 449.00 a pair they are expensive, but if you track your car, UCR will make your day so much easier.



See what I mean?



so easy, LOL.
Dan is a pretty decent welder, even though he says its not his strongest suit. He likes to develop better ways of making things or finding a solution for ideas. Like a tow hook mounted license plate bracket ( to come)


The harness bars ( 449.00) pictured here in trial fitting , are developed, tested and customer reviewed before we put them out for sale; we may update parts and change how we make them, if we find a way to do it better.

Anyway props to Steve and Dan for excellent work, and of course, Chris the powdercoater, who never misses doing a great job on the final finish.

UCR


Sway bars. Hardcore or xXx? so many choices.