For discussion of all things Powell!!
#1026
not sure what part of this I am understanding. The stock seat belts install no problem/ aftermarket add on belts work fine as well, the belt eye may have to be enlarged to suit the 14mm stock seat belt shoulder bolt on the console side, 12mm on the rocker sill side.
#1028
on the console side that attaches to the seat bracket cross bar thats part of the XD assembly. It uses the stock seat belt bolt.
this is the prototype picture so the parts are not powdercoated. It fits perfectly and there is room to add a race harness lap belt mounting plate. all good.
sorry its taking so long to get your seat brackets, I missed the fact that you had ordered them and the production did not get scheduled for you sooner..
this is the prototype picture so the parts are not powdercoated. It fits perfectly and there is room to add a race harness lap belt mounting plate. all good.
sorry its taking so long to get your seat brackets, I missed the fact that you had ordered them and the production did not get scheduled for you sooner..
#1029
#1030
Misc. Issues cropping up.
Rotated engine mounts:
To be rotated the centers are different. Therefore the instructions we send out via email to every purchaser must be reviewed. Even bonafide shops sometimes struggle to read. Balancing the mounts in the process described by GM is included in the "how to". If the mount bolts wont line up, if you have to force the bolts in, then the motor trans assembly may have moved and you need to lever it back into position with jack and pry bars etc so all lines up. There are 10 steps detailed in the how to with pictures.
Aftermarket alloy control arms
Some of these are pretty soft and bend easily. Others are not made correctly to OEM spec and any replacement inserts will fall through during install. NOT GOOD> if you have trouble installing our T cabs its NOT our parts.
END LINKS
OEM dont last long. They corrode and knock. Powergrid inc adjustable all weather spherical end links last forever.
AFTERCOOLING LSJ
So much nonsense is written about this. Option B is the best bang for buck bar none. with air in the system the aftercooling system wont work right. If you dont have an airdam in place then IAT2 will suck.
Just like funky motor mounts, single pass while the best option for improving laminova core performance, is not made right ( unless you get ours) sad to say. I have proven it, but wont explain the glaring error folks make.
Aftercooler pumps. "Sharkey" on here has a trick pump working well, but for my money the stock pump works fine. The 100 or so bux spent at ZZP or Yates Motorsport ( best prices) is well spent. DONT even think about mods if the IC pump doesnt work.
Griffin aftercooler radiators. Simply the best. Its in the core. They make them. And they are dual pass. ( the radiator that is. look it up)
LNF valve coking
Gotta have clean valves or your rocket wont. Rocket. Media blasting works well explained on here. Our Oil seperator upgrade is the main and perhaps only proven preventative upgrade step you can take to improve things. Low ash motor oil, and oil changes at 30% OLM life, and tier 1 93 octane gasoline and avoiding low rev high torque cruising will help as well.
HARDCORE AND xXx REAR BARS
Install easily, hold value because they are the best. BUT THAT SAID!! please TORQUE the fasteners. "Gudentite" doesnt hack it. Its amazing how much more tightening you have to do when you use a torque wrench.
PLEASE READ THE HOW TO INSTRUCTIONS!
Thanks for considering and or using genuine Powell hardcore raceparts!
To be rotated the centers are different. Therefore the instructions we send out via email to every purchaser must be reviewed. Even bonafide shops sometimes struggle to read. Balancing the mounts in the process described by GM is included in the "how to". If the mount bolts wont line up, if you have to force the bolts in, then the motor trans assembly may have moved and you need to lever it back into position with jack and pry bars etc so all lines up. There are 10 steps detailed in the how to with pictures.
Aftermarket alloy control arms
Some of these are pretty soft and bend easily. Others are not made correctly to OEM spec and any replacement inserts will fall through during install. NOT GOOD> if you have trouble installing our T cabs its NOT our parts.
END LINKS
OEM dont last long. They corrode and knock. Powergrid inc adjustable all weather spherical end links last forever.
AFTERCOOLING LSJ
So much nonsense is written about this. Option B is the best bang for buck bar none. with air in the system the aftercooling system wont work right. If you dont have an airdam in place then IAT2 will suck.
Just like funky motor mounts, single pass while the best option for improving laminova core performance, is not made right ( unless you get ours) sad to say. I have proven it, but wont explain the glaring error folks make.
Aftercooler pumps. "Sharkey" on here has a trick pump working well, but for my money the stock pump works fine. The 100 or so bux spent at ZZP or Yates Motorsport ( best prices) is well spent. DONT even think about mods if the IC pump doesnt work.
Griffin aftercooler radiators. Simply the best. Its in the core. They make them. And they are dual pass. ( the radiator that is. look it up)
LNF valve coking
Gotta have clean valves or your rocket wont. Rocket. Media blasting works well explained on here. Our Oil seperator upgrade is the main and perhaps only proven preventative upgrade step you can take to improve things. Low ash motor oil, and oil changes at 30% OLM life, and tier 1 93 octane gasoline and avoiding low rev high torque cruising will help as well.
HARDCORE AND xXx REAR BARS
Install easily, hold value because they are the best. BUT THAT SAID!! please TORQUE the fasteners. "Gudentite" doesnt hack it. Its amazing how much more tightening you have to do when you use a torque wrench.
PLEASE READ THE HOW TO INSTRUCTIONS!
Thanks for considering and or using genuine Powell hardcore raceparts!
Last edited by Powell Race Parts; 04-11-2014 at 08:07 PM.
#1032
Troof. FIxed. thanks
grrrr i saw that ninja!
LOL Ecaulk you are the only one who noticed haha
UPDATE. HARDCORE SWAY BARS.
Sway bar contacting the twisting beam at the bend. I just reviewed a two year old sway bar and it was contacting the beam. I replaced the bar as it was easier and we have changed the bars spacer fab process since then. But if that is an issue for you, the simplest thing to do is drop the bar and snip the edge of the v beam where it contacts. I will say that folks with stainless hardware should contact me for free 10.9 cad plated headware upgrade, please be prepared to provide proof of purchase from us.
I thought stainless hardware would not rust.It doesnt. But stainless hardware is weak. No better than grade 5 and seizes in the nut plates even with anti seize . HOWEVER thats using conventional Permatex silver anti seize. I have just obtained ( pal of mine next door has a shop found it) a moly based anti seize ( black color) made by Lloyds that is superior we think to Permatex....
use that.
lol.
grrrr i saw that ninja!
LOL Ecaulk you are the only one who noticed haha
UPDATE. HARDCORE SWAY BARS.
Sway bar contacting the twisting beam at the bend. I just reviewed a two year old sway bar and it was contacting the beam. I replaced the bar as it was easier and we have changed the bars spacer fab process since then. But if that is an issue for you, the simplest thing to do is drop the bar and snip the edge of the v beam where it contacts. I will say that folks with stainless hardware should contact me for free 10.9 cad plated headware upgrade, please be prepared to provide proof of purchase from us.
I thought stainless hardware would not rust.It doesnt. But stainless hardware is weak. No better than grade 5 and seizes in the nut plates even with anti seize . HOWEVER thats using conventional Permatex silver anti seize. I have just obtained ( pal of mine next door has a shop found it) a moly based anti seize ( black color) made by Lloyds that is superior we think to Permatex....
use that.
lol.
Last edited by Powell Race Parts; 04-11-2014 at 08:08 PM.
#1034
Where to start?
After a month of searching, I found my car. 2009 SS sedan. G85, victory red, 42,000 miles, one owner, clean title. Flying to Virginia next weekend to pick it up. It'll be a DD/autocross car and I could use some quality advice on where to start mods.
Tires and alignment are a definite. BFG told me Rivals in 225/40/18 will be ready next month! I figure $1000 total for that. Leaves me $2000. Konis, XXX bar, and front endlinks would keep install simple (except for inserts), keep me in stock class, and run another grand. YYZs and trailing CAB are highly recommended (I have read this entire thread), but would bump me up a class. Not the end of world as I have no aspirations of being nationally competitive. Go for the big stuff or build the foundation first...CABs, twist beam bushings, under car rail, etc?
Still haven't touched the brakes, but they are supposedly pretty good stock. Should they take priority over anything mentioned above?
Thanks in advance for any help in spending my money!
Tires and alignment are a definite. BFG told me Rivals in 225/40/18 will be ready next month! I figure $1000 total for that. Leaves me $2000. Konis, XXX bar, and front endlinks would keep install simple (except for inserts), keep me in stock class, and run another grand. YYZs and trailing CAB are highly recommended (I have read this entire thread), but would bump me up a class. Not the end of world as I have no aspirations of being nationally competitive. Go for the big stuff or build the foundation first...CABs, twist beam bushings, under car rail, etc?
Still haven't touched the brakes, but they are supposedly pretty good stock. Should they take priority over anything mentioned above?
Thanks in advance for any help in spending my money!
#1035
good questions. what I would do:
UCR. EZ jack points as well I 100% cant stand trying to jack the car up wrecking the pinch welds or dimpling the unit body rails.Change two tires a side NASCAR style. Plus they stiffen the car very nicely and are legal in all sanctioning body rules as no penalty option.
449.00
CABS trailing. dont even think of competitive driving without them. Come to think of it, after talking out rusted junk cabs over and over, the lifetime warranty makes me feel good about these.
199 combine shipping lol
Hardcore or xXx bar. Take your pick. really improves turn in, high speed braking stability, forward bite off the corner.
250/285 what color u want ? red and black always on the shelf custom standard pc colors no problem no extra cost.
YYZ springs. Yup the best
360 shipped.
Koni rears to start
265.00 try tire rack or ZZP for best prices
then koni inserts when u save up more money.
talk to me when its time most people hack up the install and do it wrong
good tires and wheels
i heart Direzza Z2, PF01 enkies and stuff like that.
stock brake pads, its a tc. come to think of it, stock brakepads, LSJ. lol
good luck... and thanks for considering genuine Powell hardcore raceparts.
UCR. EZ jack points as well I 100% cant stand trying to jack the car up wrecking the pinch welds or dimpling the unit body rails.Change two tires a side NASCAR style. Plus they stiffen the car very nicely and are legal in all sanctioning body rules as no penalty option.
449.00
CABS trailing. dont even think of competitive driving without them. Come to think of it, after talking out rusted junk cabs over and over, the lifetime warranty makes me feel good about these.
199 combine shipping lol
Hardcore or xXx bar. Take your pick. really improves turn in, high speed braking stability, forward bite off the corner.
250/285 what color u want ? red and black always on the shelf custom standard pc colors no problem no extra cost.
YYZ springs. Yup the best
360 shipped.
Koni rears to start
265.00 try tire rack or ZZP for best prices
then koni inserts when u save up more money.
talk to me when its time most people hack up the install and do it wrong
good tires and wheels
i heart Direzza Z2, PF01 enkies and stuff like that.
stock brake pads, its a tc. come to think of it, stock brakepads, LSJ. lol
good luck... and thanks for considering genuine Powell hardcore raceparts.
#1036
"CONTROL ARM UPDATE: 18/04/2014. Dorman replacement control arms in allloy off ebay or amazon are "oversized" in the cab bushing. I have made special cab rings to take care of it, but I wont be buying them again. Dorman replacement oem style cab inserts fall right through. NO IDEA what is happening here, but the bottom line is this" Buy OEM from Crate engine Depot. I am done chasing this "find cheaper control arms its too much money" butterfly I always end up with disappointment, more work than is reasonable and frustration. lol ask me how I really feel...
#1037
good questions. what I would do:
UCR. EZ jack points as well I 100% cant stand trying to jack the car up wrecking the pinch welds or dimpling the unit body rails.Change two tires a side NASCAR style. Plus they stiffen the car very nicely and are legal in all sanctioning body rules as no penalty option.
449.00
CABS trailing. dont even think of competitive driving without them. Come to think of it, after talking out rusted junk cabs over and over, the lifetime warranty makes me feel good about these.
199 combine shipping lol
Hardcore or xXx bar. Take your pick. really improves turn in, high speed braking stability, forward bite off the corner.
250/285 what color u want ? red and black always on the shelf custom standard pc colors no problem no extra cost.
YYZ springs. Yup the best
360 shipped.
Koni rears to start
265.00 try tire rack or ZZP for best prices
then koni inserts when u save up more money.
talk to me when its time most people hack up the install and do it wrong
good tires and wheels
i heart Direzza Z2, PF01 enkies and stuff like that.
stock brake pads, its a tc. come to think of it, stock brakepads, LSJ. lol
good luck... and thanks for considering genuine Powell hardcore raceparts.
UCR. EZ jack points as well I 100% cant stand trying to jack the car up wrecking the pinch welds or dimpling the unit body rails.Change two tires a side NASCAR style. Plus they stiffen the car very nicely and are legal in all sanctioning body rules as no penalty option.
449.00
CABS trailing. dont even think of competitive driving without them. Come to think of it, after talking out rusted junk cabs over and over, the lifetime warranty makes me feel good about these.
199 combine shipping lol
Hardcore or xXx bar. Take your pick. really improves turn in, high speed braking stability, forward bite off the corner.
250/285 what color u want ? red and black always on the shelf custom standard pc colors no problem no extra cost.
YYZ springs. Yup the best
360 shipped.
Koni rears to start
265.00 try tire rack or ZZP for best prices
then koni inserts when u save up more money.
talk to me when its time most people hack up the install and do it wrong
good tires and wheels
i heart Direzza Z2, PF01 enkies and stuff like that.
stock brake pads, its a tc. come to think of it, stock brakepads, LSJ. lol
good luck... and thanks for considering genuine Powell hardcore raceparts.
Thanks John. A build plan from the man himself. I will do exactly that. I was thinking a good set of tires on the stock rims would be good, but sounds like you really think the wider, lighter Enkeis are the way to go? 18x8 with a 245 tire probably. Thanks so much!
#1038
"CONTROL ARM UPDATE: 18/04/2014. Dorman replacement control arms in allloy off ebay or amazon are "oversized" in the cab bushing. I have made special cab rings to take care of it, but I wont be buying them again. Dorman replacement oem style cab inserts fall right through. NO IDEA what is happening here, but the bottom line is this" Buy OEM from Crate engine Depot. I am done chasing this "find cheaper control arms its too much money" butterfly I always end up with disappointment, more work than is reasonable and frustration. lol ask me how I really feel...
#1040
Just sent you a message on under car rails and XXX swaybar. There really isn't too much else I'm going to be able to buy after this. I've got mixed feelings on the Sparco R100 seats and brackets, I'd almost rather have SS/TC seats and how much lower than stock worries me being only 5'8''
Still want a transmission built over the summer, we'll have to talk about that and if I can put down a deposit soon to get things started.
Still want a transmission built over the summer, we'll have to talk about that and if I can put down a deposit soon to get things started.
#1041
Troof. FIxed. thanks
grrrr i saw that ninja!
LOL Ecaulk you are the only one who noticed haha
UPDATE. HARDCORE SWAY BARS.
Sway bar contacting the twisting beam at the bend. I just reviewed a two year old sway bar and it was contacting the beam. I replaced the bar as it was easier and we have changed the bars spacer fab process since then. But if that is an issue for you, the simplest thing to do is drop the bar and snip the edge of the v beam where it contacts. I will say that folks with stainless hardware should contact me for free 10.9 cad plated headware upgrade, please be prepared to provide proof of purchase from us.
I thought stainless hardware would not rust.It doesnt. But stainless hardware is weak. No better than grade 5 and seizes in the nut plates even with anti seize . HOWEVER thats using conventional Permatex silver anti seize. I have just obtained ( pal of mine next door has a shop found it) a moly based anti seize ( black color) made by Lloyds that is superior we think to Permatex....
use that.
lol.
grrrr i saw that ninja!
LOL Ecaulk you are the only one who noticed haha
UPDATE. HARDCORE SWAY BARS.
Sway bar contacting the twisting beam at the bend. I just reviewed a two year old sway bar and it was contacting the beam. I replaced the bar as it was easier and we have changed the bars spacer fab process since then. But if that is an issue for you, the simplest thing to do is drop the bar and snip the edge of the v beam where it contacts. I will say that folks with stainless hardware should contact me for free 10.9 cad plated headware upgrade, please be prepared to provide proof of purchase from us.
I thought stainless hardware would not rust.It doesnt. But stainless hardware is weak. No better than grade 5 and seizes in the nut plates even with anti seize . HOWEVER thats using conventional Permatex silver anti seize. I have just obtained ( pal of mine next door has a shop found it) a moly based anti seize ( black color) made by Lloyds that is superior we think to Permatex....
use that.
lol.
#1045
so im going to fix my front struts/springs tonight. i didnt torque everything when i installed them last week.
what are powells CAB's suppose to be torqued to? or what are the T-cabs,L-cabs suppose to be torqued to?
what are powells CAB's suppose to be torqued to? or what are the T-cabs,L-cabs suppose to be torqued to?
#1046
well ****.. looks like i'll have to put powell's CABs on soon.. this is how my tire on the front is looking.. CAB on that side is DUN-ZO!! what do powell's CABs cost again?
and yes, I drove on these tires all winter like a sir!
and yes, I drove on these tires all winter like a sir!
Last edited by padlock; 04-26-2014 at 12:40 AM.
#1048
199 a pair. Torque values:
rear trailing cab is 75 ft lbs + 180 degrees. Use 145 ft lbs its easier 21 mm socket
leading cab is 41 ft lbs two bolts 15 mm socket. use a long extension
knuckle to ball joint pin ( this is important) 37 ft lbs, back off 3/4 turn, repeat 37 ft lbs + 30 degrees. I am shy to suggest a non angle torque but you could use 47 ft lbs. 16 mm wrench and 15 mm socket. You are tightening a split knuckle, so the clamp procedure is important and you can get rocking / knocking in the pin if the knuckle bolt is not tightened correctly
rear trailing cab is 75 ft lbs + 180 degrees. Use 145 ft lbs its easier 21 mm socket
leading cab is 41 ft lbs two bolts 15 mm socket. use a long extension
knuckle to ball joint pin ( this is important) 37 ft lbs, back off 3/4 turn, repeat 37 ft lbs + 30 degrees. I am shy to suggest a non angle torque but you could use 47 ft lbs. 16 mm wrench and 15 mm socket. You are tightening a split knuckle, so the clamp procedure is important and you can get rocking / knocking in the pin if the knuckle bolt is not tightened correctly
Last edited by Powell Race Parts; 04-26-2014 at 08:45 PM.
#1049
NEW TWEAK FOR TOW HOOK BRACKETS
You can change from tow hook to license plate in under ten seconds. Put another way: " Huh Officer, of course I have a front plate. Let me show you"
not a lot of money . Gloria will publish pricing Monday. Thanks to Greg Ronalds for chasing me for over a year to produce this. Took about five different iterations to get to simple and ez .
You can change from tow hook to license plate in under ten seconds. Put another way: " Huh Officer, of course I have a front plate. Let me show you"
not a lot of money . Gloria will publish pricing Monday. Thanks to Greg Ronalds for chasing me for over a year to produce this. Took about five different iterations to get to simple and ez .