Don't change your own oil? Check this out...
07-17-2008, 03:16 AM
#26
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I suggest to anyone that uses FRAM filters to go to an auto parts store and compare them to some other brands. I was amazed at the difference between them. Hell the FRAM one didnt even come with a new O-ring for the cap that goes over the filter. Look inside the filters too. There is a big difference in the way that is done too. The FRAM ones just seem so cheap after looking at others.
07-17-2008, 03:36 AM
#27
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I would go with the Napa Gold filters. I have used Fram for years, but after doing some research on oil and filters for the new engine in my '69 Road Runner (flat tappet cam) I switch to the Napa Gold prior to firing the new motor. A good web-site to get all the info you need on oil and filters is www.bobistheoilguy.com . Click on the oil forums. Thanks - 08cobalt
07-17-2008, 09:05 AM
#29
i change my own oil and i only use synthetic and nobody around here does synthetic at the price of the good stuff and a filter. takes me like 15 minutes and that's without even having to lift the car, you get a little dirty but oh well. lube joints are a jip.
07-17-2008, 09:11 AM
#30
Not a Sebring
I used do mine, but now I bribe my buddy Chris (NamedGobalt on here) with food to do mine for me b/c im uber lazy 
But yeah, that filter is way gone. I change mine every 5k, new filter every time of course
But yeah, that filter is way gone. I change mine every 5k, new filter every time of course
07-17-2008, 09:11 AM
#31
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the OP's filter doesn't look far off from a heavily-used filter - that's what my friend's Cavalier filter looks like whenever he changes it, and he changes it at 3k-5k.
as far as filters go, i honestly can't believe you're griping about the condition of that used filter and then you went out to buy a fram, of all things.
at least spend the extra two dollars and get an AC Delco, or similarly high-end brand.
as far as filters go, i honestly can't believe you're griping about the condition of that used filter and then you went out to buy a fram, of all things.
at least spend the extra two dollars and get an AC Delco, or similarly high-end brand.
07-17-2008, 09:16 AM
#33
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dude, that really in all honesty doesnt look that bad. I do about 5-6 oil changes on various ecotecs everyday, and they all start to look like that. soo, dont worry, thats actually kinda normal.
07-17-2008, 09:38 AM
#36
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Yeah, from my experience as a lube tech, changing oil just about everyday, I don't see too much of a problem, unless you really don't trust where you get it done...
I got my balt in july 06, I change the oil every 3k miles, and it still looks about like that. The twisting is most likely due to the extreme temperatures of the oil, and the direction of which it flows, not anything to do with removing or installation. The same thing happens on most internal oil filters, and probably external ones, except you can't see them thru the metal casing. Once you do it once on a supercharged version, it becomes pretty quick the next time. I just grab two six inch extensions, a ratchet, and the filter cap socket, place the socket on first, then just send down the extensions and wallah, filter opened. A bit of contorsion work to pull out the filter, and then it's the the same in reverse.
Oh yeah, I also like to let the oil drain before changing the filter, I noticed that a decent amount will come out of a completely drained engine, once you open the filter, due to vaccum I suppose.
I got my balt in july 06, I change the oil every 3k miles, and it still looks about like that. The twisting is most likely due to the extreme temperatures of the oil, and the direction of which it flows, not anything to do with removing or installation. The same thing happens on most internal oil filters, and probably external ones, except you can't see them thru the metal casing. Once you do it once on a supercharged version, it becomes pretty quick the next time. I just grab two six inch extensions, a ratchet, and the filter cap socket, place the socket on first, then just send down the extensions and wallah, filter opened. A bit of contorsion work to pull out the filter, and then it's the the same in reverse.
Oh yeah, I also like to let the oil drain before changing the filter, I noticed that a decent amount will come out of a completely drained engine, once you open the filter, due to vaccum I suppose.
07-17-2008, 09:39 AM
#37
Not a Sebring
07-17-2008, 09:58 AM
#39
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So, I've got 22 500 km on my 2007 Cobalt now, bought it at 20 000. Changed the oil in it yesterday, check out what I found when I took out my oil filter...
I'm just going to safely assume that this filter has never been changed - it's probably factory installed. The Edmonton Lube-X sticker that was on my windshield when I bought the car read that the oil was replaced in January 2008. Something seems fishy to me.
So there's a little warning to everyone who doesn't change their oil themselves - they may not be replacing the filter. Sure, it's pain in the ass to pull out if it's under the supercharger, but mine isn't supercharged. It's called laziness.
Throttle response is at least 40% faster than before I changed the oil, and I don't hear the engine knock for a couple seconds when I start the engine with a brand new FRAM filter. 
I'm just going to safely assume that this filter has never been changed - it's probably factory installed. The Edmonton Lube-X sticker that was on my windshield when I bought the car read that the oil was replaced in January 2008. Something seems fishy to me.
So there's a little warning to everyone who doesn't change their oil themselves - they may not be replacing the filter. Sure, it's pain in the ass to pull out if it's under the supercharger, but mine isn't supercharged. It's called laziness.
Throttle response is at least 40% faster than before I changed the oil, and I don't hear the engine knock for a couple seconds when I start the engine with a brand new FRAM filter. 
I am an untrusting bastard when it comes to my car. Any work is done, I am right there, damn the insurance.
07-17-2008, 11:13 AM
#40
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The only reason I bought a FRAM was because that's the only thing anywhere in town sold. 
Next time I'll order it online or go to Camrose a look there. Didn't really want to put it in, but I knew my oil's life was up.
Next time I'll order it online or go to Camrose a look there. Didn't really want to put it in, but I knew my oil's life was up.
07-17-2008, 11:18 AM
#42
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i'd go an extra 1,000 miles before my change before i'd put a FRAM in.
as long as i knew i had a high quality filter, driving a bit of a ways out to get another good filter wouldn't upset me in the slightest.
as long as i knew i had a high quality filter, driving a bit of a ways out to get another good filter wouldn't upset me in the slightest.
07-17-2008, 12:09 PM
#43
Senior Member
Ive had the same result with napa gold filters as the original poster
I would go with the Napa Gold filters. I have used Fram for years, but after doing some research on oil and filters for the new engine in my '69 Road Runner (flat tappet cam) I switch to the Napa Gold prior to firing the new motor. A good web-site to get all the info you need on oil and filters is www.bobistheoilguy.com . Click on the oil forums. Thanks - 08cobalt
When I had the problem with the filter I thought it looked like the paper wasnt strong enough to take the oil pressure from running the engine to redline,and twisted up.
The problem occured twice with napa gold but never the oem filters and I change the oil myself religiously at 5000 kms.
The napa guy said it was something I did or from unscrewing is and the O-ring sticking.
07-17-2008, 12:11 PM
#44
I would not use anything but oem filters for the difference in price.
When I had the problem with the filter I thought it looked like the paper wasnt strong enough to take the oil pressure from running the engine to redline,and twisted up.
The problem occured twice with napa gold but never the oem filters and I change the oil myself religiously at 5000 kms.
The napa guy said it was something I did or from unscrewing is and the O-ring sticking.
When I had the problem with the filter I thought it looked like the paper wasnt strong enough to take the oil pressure from running the engine to redline,and twisted up.
The problem occured twice with napa gold but never the oem filters and I change the oil myself religiously at 5000 kms.
The napa guy said it was something I did or from unscrewing is and the O-ring sticking.
07-17-2008, 05:46 PM
#46
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When i compared Ac delco to a fram in this thread i found alot of differences in just the plastic housing . You can't compare a used element to a new one, but the housing differences were enough to get me to change.
07-17-2008, 05:47 PM
#47
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Personally I've used 3 types: stock (gm/ac delco), fram, super tech (wal mart filter)...they all work the same and no problems with any of them (plus never deformed like this one) so I'm going out on a limb and saying: "a filter is a filter...no difference". I wouldn't trust the walmart synthetic oil but the filter yeah...but it's only 40-50 cents cheaper than fram.
07-17-2008, 05:47 PM
#48
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I know for a fact that they didn't replace my filter once. Even though I showed them how to reach it. I was pissed about it because my oil life dropped quickly.
07-17-2008, 10:12 PM
#49
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just to put my two sense in. but i am a manager of a lube shop in NC and when it comes to a paper filter they are all made at the same two or three wearhouses. And when it comes to paper canister filters it doesnt make a difference whether its an advanced auto brand or a mobil one. I change mine every 3000 miles, mine gets twisted just like that and we have honeywell filters which is the same company who makes the fram filters.... ive been doin this for almost 6 years and have many good reps from honeywell who is one of my vendors.
like i said just me two cents... take it as you would like...
like i said just me two cents... take it as you would like...
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