Halfcent's summer of 2012
12-21-2012, 03:42 PM
#101
I'm old school
Thread Starter
Ya, my car is a 2005, so HD radio wasn't around yet. I installed an aftermarket tuner module that plays through the head unit digital input, but that tuner took the antenna away from the head unit and left the original tuner without one.
The idea is you shouldn't need the original tuner anymore, so you shouldn't need the antenna attached to it. But I have found that occasionally with a weak signal its better to just have ordinary analog instead of listening to that annoying switch between digital and analog signals.
The idea is you shouldn't need the original tuner anymore, so you shouldn't need the antenna attached to it. But I have found that occasionally with a weak signal its better to just have ordinary analog instead of listening to that annoying switch between digital and analog signals.
01-14-2013, 07:50 PM
#103
I'm old school
Thread Starter
It's been a while since I've posted but I have still been working on the car, just haven't been able to update the blog. Here what's new...
It was 70 all week in Nashville right up until today when it was 30 with freezing rain, and today is when I got to work on the car. Figures.
Anyway, I have been doing lots of little reassembly items. First, check out my wicked-new CAI, yo!
Cold air intakes make me laugh. Very little point to them other than they look and sound cool. I plan on turbo-ing anyway, not necessary.
One of my challenges is the dual cooling fan harness. There is the right way to do this, and then the easy way, which works. For now, I'm doing the easy way just so I can get back on the road for the winter. I'll do the right way in the spring. Here is the problem:
Make those two separate cooling fan plugs into one. Here is the end result:
When I do this the right way later, it will look exactly the same. The difference is the right way always spins both fans together, just at a low or high speed. This required rewiring some of the relays in the underhood fuse box. Possible, but I want to get a salvage fuse box to do the wiring to which is tricky, and then swap it into the car instead of cutting up my good one. For now, instead of two speeds, only one fan runs on low and both on high. A decent compromise.
Problem number 2 was the master cylinder brake line. Problem is the new cylinder has a connection that is larger than the original. I thought I might get lucky by ordering a new line from the SS/TC model the master came from...
Well, that did solve the problem at the master cylinder end, but I traded one problem for another...
The other end that attaches to the ABS module is routed differently and now the fitting on that end is too big. So that idea didn't work. On to plan B, modify the original line to fit.
First you go buy a package of the correct size flare nuts...
Then you cut off the flare of the original line, get rid of the small nut, put on a bigger nut, and clean off some of the rubber coating...
Clamp it in your handy dandy flare tool...
An voila! A reworked line with the right size nut. Worked like a champ.
The flare tool marks bugged me, but did not effect the end result from working correctly.
As it turns out, that package of flare nuts came in very handy for the bleeding process.
Reinstalled everything. Bled them, found a couple small leaks that I thought might be a problem and are easy to fix, gotta get a couple little parts.
I had one, single ring terminal lead from the engine harness that I just could not figure out where it connected to. Still don't for sure, but by logical deduction, it has to either attach to the alternator output or the starter input, both of which are connected to each other by the fuseable link. So electrically, it's not too different either way. For now, I've connected it to the alternator side. I have no idea what the hell it's for. Maybe I'll get a look under the hood of another L61 sometime to get an idea.
I put most everything back together today and started it for the first time. Fired right up. Shut it back off after just a few seconds. I don't have any coolant in it yet because I have to flush it and it's freezing out so I couldn't leave plain water in there. Found all of my injectors where leaking at the connection to the fuel rail. I guess the new o-rings in my overhaul kit where the wrong size, so I'll pick those up along with the brake parts.
I figure I'll be back on the road after one more full day of work.
It was 70 all week in Nashville right up until today when it was 30 with freezing rain, and today is when I got to work on the car. Figures.
Anyway, I have been doing lots of little reassembly items. First, check out my wicked-new CAI, yo!
Cold air intakes make me laugh. Very little point to them other than they look and sound cool. I plan on turbo-ing anyway, not necessary.
One of my challenges is the dual cooling fan harness. There is the right way to do this, and then the easy way, which works. For now, I'm doing the easy way just so I can get back on the road for the winter. I'll do the right way in the spring. Here is the problem:
Make those two separate cooling fan plugs into one. Here is the end result:
When I do this the right way later, it will look exactly the same. The difference is the right way always spins both fans together, just at a low or high speed. This required rewiring some of the relays in the underhood fuse box. Possible, but I want to get a salvage fuse box to do the wiring to which is tricky, and then swap it into the car instead of cutting up my good one. For now, instead of two speeds, only one fan runs on low and both on high. A decent compromise.
Problem number 2 was the master cylinder brake line. Problem is the new cylinder has a connection that is larger than the original. I thought I might get lucky by ordering a new line from the SS/TC model the master came from...
Well, that did solve the problem at the master cylinder end, but I traded one problem for another...
The other end that attaches to the ABS module is routed differently and now the fitting on that end is too big. So that idea didn't work. On to plan B, modify the original line to fit.
First you go buy a package of the correct size flare nuts...
Then you cut off the flare of the original line, get rid of the small nut, put on a bigger nut, and clean off some of the rubber coating...
Clamp it in your handy dandy flare tool...
An voila! A reworked line with the right size nut. Worked like a champ.
The flare tool marks bugged me, but did not effect the end result from working correctly.
As it turns out, that package of flare nuts came in very handy for the bleeding process.
Reinstalled everything. Bled them, found a couple small leaks that I thought might be a problem and are easy to fix, gotta get a couple little parts.
I had one, single ring terminal lead from the engine harness that I just could not figure out where it connected to. Still don't for sure, but by logical deduction, it has to either attach to the alternator output or the starter input, both of which are connected to each other by the fuseable link. So electrically, it's not too different either way. For now, I've connected it to the alternator side. I have no idea what the hell it's for. Maybe I'll get a look under the hood of another L61 sometime to get an idea.
I put most everything back together today and started it for the first time. Fired right up. Shut it back off after just a few seconds. I don't have any coolant in it yet because I have to flush it and it's freezing out so I couldn't leave plain water in there. Found all of my injectors where leaking at the connection to the fuel rail. I guess the new o-rings in my overhaul kit where the wrong size, so I'll pick those up along with the brake parts.
I figure I'll be back on the road after one more full day of work.
01-15-2013, 02:15 AM
#105
New Member
Looks like a lot of work. I'm currently going through a similar process with my Ion. I've already got the the Brembo set up and 5 lug for the front, I just need to find a rear axle without drums! Good luck.
01-15-2013, 08:37 AM
#106
I'm old school
Thread Starter
I'm assuming you are joking and that the sarcasm is being lost in the text.
If you are serious, I am using the ordinary stock air intake and the picture was a joke of me holding it up proudly.
I had some trouble with the rear axle part too. There are not a lot of them out there in salvage yards. The first one I got was advertised as "loaded", which made me think it had the brakes on it. All is had where the hubs and the axle itself was damaged. I got lucky finding that SS right away when it came into the yard last spring.
If you are serious, I am using the ordinary stock air intake and the picture was a joke of me holding it up proudly.
I had some trouble with the rear axle part too. There are not a lot of them out there in salvage yards. The first one I got was advertised as "loaded", which made me think it had the brakes on it. All is had where the hubs and the axle itself was damaged. I got lucky finding that SS right away when it came into the yard last spring.
01-28-2013, 04:28 PM
#108
I'm old school
Thread Starter
Spent a lot of time running the engine in the shop last week and hit a snag. Car is pumping out white smoke like a steam engine. Internal water leak somewhere. The head gasket and everything else is obviously brand new, but the water pump is the original with 110,000 miles on it. Probably leaking at the drive shaft bearing into the timing end and dumping water into the oil pan. I'll be swapping it out on Thursday, had to order that sprocket holding tool so I can do the job.
Everything else looks good. Assuming I solve the leak, I should button it up in about 2 weeks as my work schedule allows.
Everything else looks good. Assuming I solve the leak, I should button it up in about 2 weeks as my work schedule allows.
01-29-2013, 02:05 PM
#113
I'm old school
Thread Starter
Don't be sad...
Problems always happen in jobs like this one. I tell you what though, I have rebuilt 3 engines in the past 3 years. I reused the original water pump on all three because they worked fine when I took them off. But when I put them back on, they have all leaked, and all at the drive shaft bearing. Must be a problem with them drying out while not installed or something. For the $50 bucks it takes to buy a new one, I'm just gonna replace them from now on whether they work or not.
Replacing it on the car shouldn't take too long. You do have to remove the exhaust manifold to do it, which is extra work, but I figure about 4 hours.
I really want my car back... I am fortunate to have back-up transportation while doing this. (Tip: never modify your only car). But it's freaking cold out side and the shop I'm using isn't heated. It makes working on the car less fun.
Problems always happen in jobs like this one. I tell you what though, I have rebuilt 3 engines in the past 3 years. I reused the original water pump on all three because they worked fine when I took them off. But when I put them back on, they have all leaked, and all at the drive shaft bearing. Must be a problem with them drying out while not installed or something. For the $50 bucks it takes to buy a new one, I'm just gonna replace them from now on whether they work or not.
Replacing it on the car shouldn't take too long. You do have to remove the exhaust manifold to do it, which is extra work, but I figure about 4 hours.
I really want my car back... I am fortunate to have back-up transportation while doing this. (Tip: never modify your only car). But it's freaking cold out side and the shop I'm using isn't heated. It makes working on the car less fun.
01-29-2013, 07:58 PM
#115
I'm old school
Thread Starter
Good idea though, thanks for looking out for me.
How are those rear axle bushings coming? I'm gonna be on the road using your Version 1 here in about a week.
01-29-2013, 09:00 PM
#116
Senior Member
Some real nice work here! I love seeing threads like this, where your taking your time doing things right and putting shiny restored/new parts on. Looks brand new!
02-04-2013, 12:21 PM
#119
I'm old school
Thread Starter
Two steps forward, one step back...
The new water pump worked. The old one was in fact leaking. Took me all day to do the swap. I figured 4 hours before, took 6. Nothing went wrong, it just takes a long friggin' time. First you have to remove the exhaust manifold, which eats up a lot of time. I already had the front wheels and splash guards removed, so that helped. Here's how much space you have to work:
The most nerve racking part is the removal of the water pump drive sprocket bolts. If you drop them, they fall into the engine, and you are fucked. You have to get them out through that small little space you see above. I had rags stuffed into the hole to catch anything that might drop, magnets attached to the socket head to grab the bolt, filled the socket with grease to hold the bolt head, etc. It was scary, but I didn't drop anything. That assembly jig tool is essential by the way. You can't do it without it.
My custom brake line I made is leaking at the fitting to the master cylinder. The smaller diameter line can't make a large enough flare to seal up correctly. So now I have to use that SS line I bought and cut off the other end to adapt it to fit the ABS module correctly. Doing that today. I knew that part was going to be a problem.
Ran the engine for over an hour after the pump was installed. Got the water temp up to 205 and the cooling fans never did turn on. Not sure how hot it needs to get before they switch on, but I know I can go to 220 before I have to worry. Thermostat opens at 190, and it did sit there for about 30 minutes while the rest of the coolant heated up, so I know thats working. The wiring of those dual fans is pretty straight forward, I can't imagine there is a problem. But until I actually see them turn on, I won't know if its working, now will I?
The new water pump worked. The old one was in fact leaking. Took me all day to do the swap. I figured 4 hours before, took 6. Nothing went wrong, it just takes a long friggin' time. First you have to remove the exhaust manifold, which eats up a lot of time. I already had the front wheels and splash guards removed, so that helped. Here's how much space you have to work:
The most nerve racking part is the removal of the water pump drive sprocket bolts. If you drop them, they fall into the engine, and you are fucked. You have to get them out through that small little space you see above. I had rags stuffed into the hole to catch anything that might drop, magnets attached to the socket head to grab the bolt, filled the socket with grease to hold the bolt head, etc. It was scary, but I didn't drop anything. That assembly jig tool is essential by the way. You can't do it without it.
My custom brake line I made is leaking at the fitting to the master cylinder. The smaller diameter line can't make a large enough flare to seal up correctly. So now I have to use that SS line I bought and cut off the other end to adapt it to fit the ABS module correctly. Doing that today. I knew that part was going to be a problem.
Ran the engine for over an hour after the pump was installed. Got the water temp up to 205 and the cooling fans never did turn on. Not sure how hot it needs to get before they switch on, but I know I can go to 220 before I have to worry. Thermostat opens at 190, and it did sit there for about 30 minutes while the rest of the coolant heated up, so I know thats working. The wiring of those dual fans is pretty straight forward, I can't imagine there is a problem. But until I actually see them turn on, I won't know if its working, now will I?
02-04-2013, 04:04 PM
#122
I'm old school
Thread Starter
Those are good ideas, I'll try that. I can't do the AC option yet, still haven't recharged the system since having the engine out of the car.
Just figured out why I'm having such a hard time with this stupid brake line. Turns out the package of brake line nuts I bought where for bubble fittings and all the ports on this car are flares. I honestly didn't not even know they used bubbles on automotive brake lines. Never bothered to check when I bought the package. Anyway, I just spent about an hour in front of the computer putting together the necessary combination of nuts, adapters, unions, yadda yadda, to make it all work. Headed to Pep Boys now to pick them up.
Just figured out why I'm having such a hard time with this stupid brake line. Turns out the package of brake line nuts I bought where for bubble fittings and all the ports on this car are flares. I honestly didn't not even know they used bubbles on automotive brake lines. Never bothered to check when I bought the package. Anyway, I just spent about an hour in front of the computer putting together the necessary combination of nuts, adapters, unions, yadda yadda, to make it all work. Headed to Pep Boys now to pick them up.
02-04-2013, 05:44 PM
#123
I'm old school
Thread Starter
I thought this was entertaining...
How to connect a 2009 SS master cylinder with a 1/4" brake line to a 2006 SS ABS module with a 3/16" brake line in a 2005 LS that is getting a massive brake upgrade:
First, you take a stock 2009 SS master cylinder 1/4" brake line with a metric M12x1.0 fitting on it, cut it in half, and put an english 7/16"x24 nut on it. Attach that to a 7/16"x24 to 3/8"x24 adapter. Attach that to 3/8"x24 to M10x1.0 adapter. Attach that to a M10x1.0 union. Then attach that to your original 2005 3/8" brake line that you also cut in half.
And Ta Da! A perfectly functional, yet really weird looking success.
Now before you say "Why didn't you just get a single adapter from M12x1.0 to M10x1.0?", trust me, I tried. They just don't make it that way.
******* bubble fittings.
BEHOLD!
How to connect a 2009 SS master cylinder with a 1/4" brake line to a 2006 SS ABS module with a 3/16" brake line in a 2005 LS that is getting a massive brake upgrade:
First, you take a stock 2009 SS master cylinder 1/4" brake line with a metric M12x1.0 fitting on it, cut it in half, and put an english 7/16"x24 nut on it. Attach that to a 7/16"x24 to 3/8"x24 adapter. Attach that to 3/8"x24 to M10x1.0 adapter. Attach that to a M10x1.0 union. Then attach that to your original 2005 3/8" brake line that you also cut in half.
And Ta Da! A perfectly functional, yet really weird looking success.
Now before you say "Why didn't you just get a single adapter from M12x1.0 to M10x1.0?", trust me, I tried. They just don't make it that way.
******* bubble fittings.
02-04-2013, 07:51 PM
#125
I'm old school
Thread Starter
Yup, I researched that in the beginning. The ABS module can automatically modulate the bias as needed. I switched to the SS module from my LS module due a small difference in the biasing valve that is better for the rear disks instead of the original drums.
Looking forward to the bushings. Send them my way whenever you can.
Looking forward to the bushings. Send them my way whenever you can.