Lsj p0171, p1133
02-12-2016, 06:36 PM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Lsj p0171, p1133
So I know the p0171 lean code is common for the SS. I have ZZP stage 3 #60lbs, ZZP intake. Full exhaust. ZZP PCM. It recently got really cold in northern VA. And it threw a lean code twice in the past 3 weeks(300 miles). And I got a p1133 twice this past week with the p0171. I assumed the lean code is from the cold temps. But now I'm starting to think the O2 is on the frits.... Today my AFR gauge was reading very lean during the beginning of acceleration. Then would try to straightened itself out... Any thoughts? cheers
02-24-2016, 07:02 PM
#3
Senior Member
The ZZP canned tunes are only meant to be a band-aid until you can get your car professionally tuned.
It could mean that your car is not warming up hot enough. What is the coolant temp running at when you cruise around in the car?
Or it could mean that you car is running lean. Typically you will only throw the P0171 code when you car steadily runs at a more than 13% fuel trim, which is quite the variance from Stoich.
Give us a little more insight into what is going on with the car.
It could mean that your car is not warming up hot enough. What is the coolant temp running at when you cruise around in the car?
Or it could mean that you car is running lean. Typically you will only throw the P0171 code when you car steadily runs at a more than 13% fuel trim, which is quite the variance from Stoich.
Give us a little more insight into what is going on with the car.
02-25-2016, 08:44 PM
#4
New Member
Thread Starter
My afr gauge reads 10-11.5 on cold starts. Once it reaches 180 degrees F. The afr gauge reads 14.3-15.2 at idle. Under throttle the afr gauge will read around stochi 14.4-15.0. But every so often it will bounce between 14.5-165 at idle after being driven for 20 min or so. And if I pop the throttle it will immediately go lean --- then run rich for a sec. Then like 15.0. Idles well no stumbling. . Also when I'm WOT reads a constant 12.9. Before I was tunned it would read 10.0 when WOT. I've check for vacuum leaks. I've sprayed throttle body cleaner around the intake mani gasket and certain vacuum lines.
02-29-2016, 04:59 PM
#5
Senior Member
My afr gauge reads 10-11.5 on cold starts. Once it reaches 180 degrees F. The afr gauge reads 14.3-15.2 at idle. Under throttle the afr gauge will read around stochi 14.4-15.0. But every so often it will bounce between 14.5-165 at idle after being driven for 20 min or so. And if I pop the throttle it will immediately go lean --- then run rich for a sec. Then like 15.0. Idles well no stumbling. . Also when I'm WOT reads a constant 12.9. Before I was tunned it would read 10.0 when WOT. I've check for vacuum leaks. I've sprayed throttle body cleaner around the intake mani gasket and certain vacuum lines.
You AFR is being offset and corrected by your fuel trims. Your lean code is being caused by the trims needing to compensate to richen it back up by MORE than 13% for a period of time.
So your computer is telling you that your tune is lean, regardless of the actual AFR. Thanks be to Fuel Trims.
02-29-2016, 11:55 PM
#6
Senior Member
I think on my 07 le5 I changed my injectors and got rid of that code or coil packs I don't remember but if you got alot of miles then it wouldn't hurt to change anyway
03-07-2016, 07:38 PM
#8
New Member
Thread Starter
Hey so it's warmmed up a good bit where I'm at the past week. And my codes went away on its own. But then eariler today my p1133 code came back. Any thoughts for the p1133 DTC by itself?
03-07-2016, 11:16 PM
#9
I used to see the p1133 and similar minor O2 diagnostic codes when I switched to a long-tube, I just turned them off. Insufficient switching just means it's not swinging between lean and rich as often as it should. Using a header with 2-3x longer piping can cause that at low engine speeds.
Or, you have an O2 that isn't great and isn't responding as soon as it should. OEM sensor you replaced it with or aftermarket? I'm a tech by day and I gotta say, most of the aftermarket O2's out there are just garbage, we see a LOT of bad new ones from parts stores. Not that they won't work, but they don't work well enough to not set codes, particularly on sensitive cars.
It's also possible you have an air leak somewhere that's causing the lean code and O2 faults, if you have any exhaust leaks it can pull fresh air into the exhaust during low flow conditions and cause fake leans and insufficient switching issues.
Or, you have an O2 that isn't great and isn't responding as soon as it should. OEM sensor you replaced it with or aftermarket? I'm a tech by day and I gotta say, most of the aftermarket O2's out there are just garbage, we see a LOT of bad new ones from parts stores. Not that they won't work, but they don't work well enough to not set codes, particularly on sensitive cars.
It's also possible you have an air leak somewhere that's causing the lean code and O2 faults, if you have any exhaust leaks it can pull fresh air into the exhaust during low flow conditions and cause fake leans and insufficient switching issues.
03-08-2016, 05:17 PM
#10
New Member
Thread Starter
I used to see the p1133 and similar minor O2 diagnostic codes when I switched to a long-tube, I just turned them off. Insufficient switching just means it's not swinging between lean and rich as often as it should. Using a header with 2-3x longer piping can cause that at low engine speeds.
Or, you have an O2 that isn't great and isn't responding as soon as it should. OEM sensor you replaced it with or aftermarket? I'm a tech by day and I gotta say, most of the aftermarket O2's out there are just garbage, we see a LOT of bad new ones from parts stores. Not that they won't work, but they don't work well enough to not set codes, particularly on sensitive cars.
It's also possible you have an air leak somewhere that's causing the lean code and O2 faults, if you have any exhaust leaks it can pull fresh air into the exhaust during low flow conditions and cause fake leans and insufficient switching issues.
Or, you have an O2 that isn't great and isn't responding as soon as it should. OEM sensor you replaced it with or aftermarket? I'm a tech by day and I gotta say, most of the aftermarket O2's out there are just garbage, we see a LOT of bad new ones from parts stores. Not that they won't work, but they don't work well enough to not set codes, particularly on sensitive cars.
It's also possible you have an air leak somewhere that's causing the lean code and O2 faults, if you have any exhaust leaks it can pull fresh air into the exhaust during low flow conditions and cause fake leans and insufficient switching issues.
Ive checked multiple times for vacuums leaks. Pulled off many vacuum lines to check for cracking/splits, dryrott Als spraying carb cleaner around the s/c mating surface to the intake and sprayed the intake manifold gasket while listening for change in idle. I replaced the upstream 02 with NTK from advance. I've been told the cobalts tend to kill 02 sensors. Maybe it's defective.??
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