2010CobaltLTfan

iTrader: (1)

Okay I changed the tensioner because I started having the timing chain sound off and on so I went ahead and changed it all I did was take the old one out and put the new one in now I'm having a worse issue with the sound of the timing chain first at start up each time and also while it's running it's louder than it was first off before I changed it did I do something wrong with the install if so how can I fix it I don't want to jump timing and blow my car up

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

You could possibly have a broken timing chain guide bolt, I suggest you remove the valve cover and check the front side guide as the upper bolt on that one likes to break off. It causes a very similar rattle sound but the tensioner won't fix it.

2010CobaltLTfan

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like a damn vw diesel at idle it didn't make this much noise before I put the new one on that's what is getting me

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like you never extended the new tensioner into the "tension" position by smacking it.

2010CobaltLTfan

iTrader: (1)

What do you smack it with

I didn't do anything special just put it in

09outlander

The tensioner needs to be compressed before you put it in and torque it down.


And once you've installed it back into the motor it needs to be released.

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

most tensioners when you buy them brand new are already compressed, you cant install them uncompressed, there is too much tension to actually get it to thread into the head. But you have to release it like in the second video.

2010CobaltLTfan

iTrader: (1)

With all this said what should I do I need my car I'm scared to drive it with all the slack in the chain i need to know what will fix it should I try to reinstall the part or look into other options

09outlander

Take the tensioner back out, compress it as seen in the first video and then reinstall it, torqueing it to I believe 55 ft/lbs and then you have to release the tensioner as seen in video 2.

2010CobaltLTfan

iTrader: (1)

Could it be the oil I'm running my brother said since I'm running mobile 1 fully synthetic 5w30 is the reason why

kzak104

iTrader: (1)

no, take the valve cover off and check to see if the guide on the intake side of the motor is broken or the bolts holding it are broken

ItalianJoe1

iTrader: (10)

The new tensioners don't need to be locked/released like that.

My money is on a broken guide/bolt, gotta pull the VC or the plug on the front of the head to check that one top bolt that usually breaks, if it's a lower bolt you will need to pull the front cover off, none of it is a big deal on these cars though.

We timed it at the junkyard, I pulled a valve cover in 90 seconds from an LSJ (well a SAAB engine but same difference)

2010CobaltLTfan

iTrader: (1)

I'm up for any thing that could cause this I want my car back running 100%

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

Again, you never released the timing chain tensioner so your timing chain is loose. You are at step 11 in this guide.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...sioner-276244/

2010CobaltLTfan

iTrader: (1)

Okay just had it checked out it's not the timing chain it has to do with the vvt solenoid not allowing oil pressure to get to the cams what issue am i looking at

09outlander

Is it the exhaust or intake VVT solenoid? How was it "checked out"?

Also did you have your valve cover off at all?

2010CobaltLTfan

iTrader: (1)

Yeah my dad told me he's a certified mechanic so he does my work he took the cover off said the timing chain area looks good but he noticed that the variable oil control solenoid was not working can't remember which one it is

kzak104

iTrader: (1)

usually if the vvt solenoids die they will throw timing/solenoid codes.

how did he diagnose this? the phasers will have play while the car is not running and tension is off the chain

2010CobaltLTfan

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure i wasn't there when he did it

2010CobaltLTfan

iTrader: (1)

But I did notice that the sound only happened when it got to normal running temp

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

You just said in the beginning of the thread you never released the timing chain tensioner after installing it. Now you think you have a VVT problem even though your showing no signs of a VVT problem.

They always throw a code, even if they are slightly off, both cam position sensors can immediately detect when the VVT solenoids arent engaging the cam phaser.

2010CobaltLTfan

iTrader: (1)

I'm just going by what I'm told

2010CobaltLTfan

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE="2010CobaltLTfan;7362061"] I'm just going by what I'm told[/QUOTE

Guys I'm confused by this also I want my car back running I don't know the problem

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

Remove the valve cover, and remove the tensioner, if you shake the tensioner back and forth, and the piston rocks back and forth, the tensioner isnt extended. The thing is spring loaded, like i said when you install it, the spring is locked inside so that the piston has slack in it, when you wack it from the chain side, it pops out on the inside and throws the piston forward to apply pressure on the guide. If you never wacked the tensioner and checked that the guide had pressure from the tensioner, then your chain is loose, and what you hear is the chain slapping the guides while the motor is running.

When the VVT solenoids go back they can throw up to 4 different codes, and they will turn the traction control off, this is for both LE5 and LAP motors with VVT. THe car can instantly sense that the cam is not in the desired angle and will throw the code, if you dont have the code, the VVT is fine.

2010CobaltLTfan

iTrader: (1)

The thing it I started it up this morning and it didn't make a noise and he started it up also no noise only makes noise it seems after it's been running my car has thrown codes with out cel on and I don't have t/c