Replaced Plugs
#1
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Thread Starter
Replaced Plugs
Ive been getting more KR lately,
so I changed my plugs.
The plugs had 8,526 miles on them. They were originally gaped to 0.040" as recommended by intense for their tune. The new ones I installed are the same brand and heat range: NGK BKR7E Plugs. When I pulled them out the gap had opened to 0.042" , the stock gap according to the Chilton's manual that tells me to check my power steering fluid weekly.
I noticed they appear to be carbon fouled somewhat. I'm guessing it's because the way I drive my car, to/from work, mostly getting to 40 - 50 mph for only a few minutes/miles. I hardly ever go into boost ect. (Reason why I'm not too worried about my 2.85" + 42#s. )
The electrode is abit of a yellowish color.
I did noticed improvements after installing my new plugs. My KR has been eliminated, and it seems to run better. I left the gap
at 0.035" I think that is what alot of people on here have them set to.
Just wondered what you guys think.
Cylinder #1
Cylinder #2
Cylinder #3
Cylinder #4
so I changed my plugs.
The plugs had 8,526 miles on them. They were originally gaped to 0.040" as recommended by intense for their tune. The new ones I installed are the same brand and heat range: NGK BKR7E Plugs. When I pulled them out the gap had opened to 0.042" , the stock gap according to the Chilton's manual that tells me to check my power steering fluid weekly.
I noticed they appear to be carbon fouled somewhat. I'm guessing it's because the way I drive my car, to/from work, mostly getting to 40 - 50 mph for only a few minutes/miles. I hardly ever go into boost ect. (Reason why I'm not too worried about my 2.85" + 42#s. )
The electrode is abit of a yellowish color.
I did noticed improvements after installing my new plugs. My KR has been eliminated, and it seems to run better. I left the gap
at 0.035" I think that is what alot of people on here have them set to.
Just wondered what you guys think.
Cylinder #1
Cylinder #2
Cylinder #3
Cylinder #4
#3
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Those plugs don't look to bad. The gap will open some just from use and the heat cycle on the metal parts. The smaller gap will help so that you don't get spark blow out.
I am wondering why are you not using a Platinum or Irdium plug? They usually burn a bit better and will last a little longer.
And what did you get from Summit Racing, anything good?
I am wondering why are you not using a Platinum or Irdium plug? They usually burn a bit better and will last a little longer.
And what did you get from Summit Racing, anything good?
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Those plugs don't look to bad. The gap will open some just from use and the heat cycle on the metal parts. The smaller gap will help so that you don't get spark blow out.
I am wondering why are you not using a Platinum or Irdium plug? They usually burn a bit better and will last a little longer.
And what did you get from Summit Racing, anything good?
I am wondering why are you not using a Platinum or Irdium plug? They usually burn a bit better and will last a little longer.
And what did you get from Summit Racing, anything good?
2: Summit Racing had various fittings and adaptors that I needed to get my Fuel Pressure, and Oil Pressure, and Oil Temp sensors connected. So far I only have the Fuel Pressure sensor connected. I need to drill a hole in my oil pan so I can JB weld in the bung they sent me for my Aeroforce Oil Temp Sensor, but I want an extra oil pan just in case I mess it up. I havnt really had a chance yet to mess with the oil pressure yet.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Wow, so 0.032" works better then? Wonder why the guy from Intense was recommending 0.040" He told me it was to prevent spark blow out. Seems to run fine on 0.035" for now.
#10
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Platinum Member
iTrader: (16)
ive had mine gapped at that for the past 4 years. maybe 4 1/2 even. never an issue. i change the plugs every oil change. some might call it overkill. i call it cheap insurance
#11
If you are not experiencing any spark blowout issues leave them be. I run 0.032" gap, because anything above that gap I experience spark blowout. My car came from the factory with a 0.035" gap, and ran like a champ all the way up to GMS3 and full bolt ons. Once I installed my H62 blower I started to experience spark blowout from the additional air flow.
Remember you want the largest gap possible w/o spark blowout. A larger gap provides a more powerful spark.
#12
1: The guy from INTENSE said not to use Platinum plugs because they can come apart inside the cylinder. Copper cores were recommended so that's what I got. I see people type stuff about how Intense tunes are not all that great, but I hopefully will be getting retuned by ZZP this year depending on how things go. If things go really well, I'll be able to take my car to ZZP for tuning, as I'll be in Michigan visiting family.
The SS S/C was originally equipped with platinum or Iridium plugs, they maintain the gap much better than copper, provide stronger spark (smaller electrode = less resistance) and last much longer.
#17
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Ok so I reselected to watch Misfires, and WOW I'm misfireing alot LESS then what I used to. I can sit and idle and not misfire, for the most part it only misfires now when accelerating under mild throttle.
I also no longer get a constant P0300 when I select "Get DTC" (Only a few times Id get a MIL)
I always thought that the misfires were a data error for 2 reasons
1: I never felt the misfires
2: Interceptor showed Misfires on cylinders 5 - 8 and would occasionaly show a cylinder misfiring "#' times as opposed to a number
So I still get some misfires but not anything like before.
How many is enough to say ok theres a problem, and how
many before I can safely ignore it?
BTW: I never FELT the engine really misfire.
Also,
for my daily driving, I should be fine with my Intense Tune until i can get my ZZP one, my last comp #s were all good.
I also no longer get a constant P0300 when I select "Get DTC" (Only a few times Id get a MIL)
I always thought that the misfires were a data error for 2 reasons
1: I never felt the misfires
2: Interceptor showed Misfires on cylinders 5 - 8 and would occasionaly show a cylinder misfiring "#' times as opposed to a number
So I still get some misfires but not anything like before.
How many is enough to say ok theres a problem, and how
many before I can safely ignore it?
BTW: I never FELT the engine really misfire.
Also,
for my daily driving, I should be fine with my Intense Tune until i can get my ZZP one, my last comp #s were all good.
#18
Ok so I reselected to watch Misfires, and WOW I'm misfireing alot LESS then what I used to. I can sit and idle and not misfire, for the most part it only misfires now when accelerating under mild throttle.
I also no longer get a constant P0300 when I select "Get DTC" (Only a few times Id get a MIL)
I always thought that the misfires were a data error for 2 reasons
1: I never felt the misfires
2: Interceptor showed Misfires on cylinders 5 - 8 and would occasionaly show a cylinder misfiring "#' times as opposed to a number
So I still get some misfires but not anything like before.
How many is enough to say ok theres a problem, and how
many before I can safely ignore it?
BTW: I never FELT the engine really misfire.
Also,
for my daily driving, I should be fine with my Intense Tune until i can get my ZZP one, my last comp #s were all good.
I also no longer get a constant P0300 when I select "Get DTC" (Only a few times Id get a MIL)
I always thought that the misfires were a data error for 2 reasons
1: I never felt the misfires
2: Interceptor showed Misfires on cylinders 5 - 8 and would occasionaly show a cylinder misfiring "#' times as opposed to a number
So I still get some misfires but not anything like before.
How many is enough to say ok theres a problem, and how
many before I can safely ignore it?
BTW: I never FELT the engine really misfire.
Also,
for my daily driving, I should be fine with my Intense Tune until i can get my ZZP one, my last comp #s were all good.
Did you see my post about how you can tell if you have spark blowout?? You will feel/hear spark blowout when you go WOT.
#19
Just a note. I run platinums in my truck and it's pushing far more boost than your 'balt is and I haven't had an issue with it since I built the motor 2 seasons ago. No problem having any of them come apart. I also ran them in my Talon TSi and my Stealth RT/TT. I have yet to see a platinum plug come apart.
#20
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Copper is generally more conductive than other spark plugs, hence why they are usually recommended for performance. However, they don't last as long as Platinum or Iridium, so they will need changed more often. Not to mention Iridium and Platinum tend to overheat compared to Copper.
These days with the amount of control we have with tuning, and different fuels such as Ethanol and Methanol... It really doesn't matter, though. Everyone has their preference, what ever works for you, keep using it.
These days with the amount of control we have with tuning, and different fuels such as Ethanol and Methanol... It really doesn't matter, though. Everyone has their preference, what ever works for you, keep using it.
#21
Copper is generally more conductive than other spark plugs, hence why they are usually recommended for performance. However, they don't last as long as Platinum or Iridium, so they will need changed more often. Not to mention Iridium and Platinum tend to overheat compared to Copper.
These days with the amount of control we have with tuning, and different fuels such as Ethanol and Methanol... It really doesn't matter, though. Everyone has their preference, what ever works for you, keep using it.
These days with the amount of control we have with tuning, and different fuels such as Ethanol and Methanol... It really doesn't matter, though. Everyone has their preference, what ever works for you, keep using it.
#22
Copper is generally more conductive than other spark plugs, hence why they are usually recommended for performance. However, they don't last as long as Platinum or Iridium, so they will need changed more often. Not to mention Iridium and Platinum tend to overheat compared to Copper.
These days with the amount of control we have with tuning, and different fuels such as Ethanol and Methanol... It really doesn't matter, though. Everyone has their preference, what ever works for you, keep using it.
These days with the amount of control we have with tuning, and different fuels such as Ethanol and Methanol... It really doesn't matter, though. Everyone has their preference, what ever works for you, keep using it.
Copper dissipates heat well, but once again, thanks to the finer center electrode on some platinum and all iridium plugs, heat dissipation is very good.
They all will work, but I prefer to stick with the OEM plugs (Iridium on LNF) because the engine was engineered with them in it and they last many times longer, providing better performance through less gap erosion over the life of the plug.
#23
Copper is more conductive, but that is outweighed by the fact that the center electrode is large in diameter, so it has more resistance.
Copper dissipates heat well, but once again, thanks to the finer center electrode on some platinum and all iridium plugs, heat dissipation is very good.
They all will work, but I prefer to stick with the OEM plugs (Iridium on LNF) because the engine was engineered with them in it and they last many times longer, providing better performance through less gap erosion over the life of the plug.
Copper dissipates heat well, but once again, thanks to the finer center electrode on some platinum and all iridium plugs, heat dissipation is very good.
They all will work, but I prefer to stick with the OEM plugs (Iridium on LNF) because the engine was engineered with them in it and they last many times longer, providing better performance through less gap erosion over the life of the plug.
IFR6V-10G NGK Laser Iridium to be exact
#25
Every car well react differently.
That's why I always recommend people find the best gap for their car themselves. Instead of listening to what others think is best.
I actually experience spark blowout from time to time @ 0.032" gap (very rarely though), and may close my gap down to 0.031".
That's why I always recommend people find the best gap for their car themselves. Instead of listening to what others think is best.
I actually experience spark blowout from time to time @ 0.032" gap (very rarely though), and may close my gap down to 0.031".
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