Today it is -20 deg celcious outside. Which is i think around -4 ferinhight. And my car is not goving out very good heat at all. The heat is MAYBE luke warm at best. It feels like there is a constent chill in my car because the heater isnt that hot at all. After a 20 m8n drive to work the inside of my car is not all that warm at all. The tstat has never been replaced. But the coolant temp of the engine is anywhere between 89 to 92 deg celcious. Which is about 190 to 195 ish ferhinh. I have had the car sense near brand new and i have never put anything in the coolant system that could gunk up the heater core. I do have a small mode selector acuator issue. Which controls if the heat is directed to the vents on the floor or the dash or where ever. But that shouldnt really affect how HOT the air gets. Which is not good in my car. Any ideas what it could be ? Idk if its more likely a bad hc or tstat issue or what ? But i need to figure it out. Im freezing. Lol.

 

Coolant temps look fine.

Stop being a baby and suck it up.

Kidding.

Tried searching for you
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/prob...o-heat-275831/

 

Vent door possibly. But when i turn the heat knob it does get colder and then a bit warmer when i turn it back to the warm position. Its just not as warm as it shoupd be a all. Unless maybe the door is staying open too much instead of closing all the way. Where is the door at. Just over top of the heater core ? Or up in the glove box by the cabin air filter ?

 

I couldnt get the pdf to open.

 

This sounds like its worth a shot

 

Vent door or just crap/rust built up in the heater core. A good coolant flush product will help clean it out, along with light water pressure into the lines going to the heater core. A lot easier to do inside a garage or during the summer LOL

 

I need to figure out where the door isbthat controls the air flow over the heater core .

 

On the way home i just noticed at a red light that my cars engine temp dropped from 92 deg to 82 deg. While at idle. Thats a ten deg drop while at a red light. I thought normal cars heat up while sitting still. Lol... So maybe my tstat is shot causing no heat/.low poor heat.

 

That's what 180 F? That's very low for idle. You may be right about thermostat

 

Could be stuck open or sticking.

 

Not when the ambient temperature is -4 F. I believe the OEM thermostat is 180F. If it only ever got up to 160 or something, then that would indicate the thermostat isn't fully closing.

Seems to me that something is dicked with the HVAC system.

 

either your thermostat is done for or your heatercore is clogged due to the dex cool geling up. I have seen both happen. Thermostats the easiest to get to and change. IF you need to unclog the heater core blow compressed air through it for a band aid fix.

 

My car barely starts heating after 20 mins.

 

Pretty easy to check if the heater core is blocked at all. Pop the hood while its hot and feel the hoses going into the core and out of the core. They should be somewhat similar in temperature. Blocked ones alot of time will have a hot in and a cold feeling out since there is nothing passing thru it.

Easy to flush out a heater core, Not so easy if you have alot of miles on the car and/or the core is thin to begin with and you go and apply compressed air and create a leak. Fast way to be doing a heater core job.

Try back flushing with water first. Leave the compressed air for tires lol unless of course you are a careful kinda guy with the compressed air lol

 

He'll be fine to use compressed air as long as he doesn't put 90psi on it, regulate it down to 5-10psi (rad cap pops at 15psi iirc). Some people's water supply is at 40+psi

Damn mines heated up in 10 mins of driving (easy not taking it above 3500 or half throttle and a 6ish second idle warmup)

 

Like i said, as long as He is careful. Some are not.

 

Air or water, pressure is pressure.

 

no your kidding really? Lol

Just figured most people have less water pressure then air pressure. That's why I said it.


Some people just have to have the last say, I understand.

 

I need to try something asap. Im already tired of being cold while deiving to work and wearing a hat and mittens in my car. Lol... I will says this also too. There is something screwie going on with my hvac also. The vents. On the side of the dash by the windows have way more air flow out if them then ylthe twonin the middle of the dash above the radio. It was never like that before. But, despite that the air coming from all the vents is only slightly warm ish. Not hot at all.

 

So your door sounds fucked up.

Also, close the vents on the other side, You don't need them.

 

I noticed yesterday that now my car blows even colder air at idle or a red light. And once i get going again the heat that i do have comes back. Bit as soon as i stop or it is at idle. It blows even colder air. Odk why it would do that. My coolant is totally full.

 

If the system is burped fully, thermostat working, then I'd guess you still have a door actuator problem.

 

If it is blowing cold when you stop it really sounds like the thermostat is not functioning properly.

So it engages more often then it should causing the car to not properly stay warm. That's why your temps drop every time you stop. Or this is a heater core that is clogged.

I doubt it is the door because that should not effect the temperature of heat going through the vents.

 

If it's a tstat issue then the coolant temp would be below 180°F. If it's above 180°F then the tstat would be open anyways. This is either door or clogged core to me.

 

Im going to check the door as soon as i get home. I will remove the acuator and move the door manually and see how it moves and how the heat feels. Hopefully i dont break or strip it. Is the acuator on the drivers side?