Silverbalt92

My engine light came on yesterday morning on my way to work so I took it to advance auto and they put the computer on it. They said that my thermostat temp wad lower than normal. He said since I live in florida that, that isnt neccisarly a bad thing. Because it being so hot, usually the engine's temp gets too hot. So he told me to jusy drive it more? Lol I work everyday and put atleast 100-200 miles on my car easilyyyy in a week so driving it more wouldn't really do anything. He said that the thermostat cap might just got stuck open or something and noy to worry about it. My engine light did go off later in the day.... But it still worries me whether sonething else can be wrong or not :/

johnccc

What was the exact error, was it something like "Coolant Temp Below Themostat Threshold"

If so, just get a new thermostat, may as well get a radiator flush while your doing that.

Before doing this repair, check the following:

Verify coolant strength & level
Verify proper cooling fan operation (check if it's running more than it should). Replace if necessary. (switch A/C to OFF as this activates the fan)
Verify proper engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor operation, replace if necessary.
Verify proper intake air temperature (IAT) sensor operation, replace if necessary.
If the above items check out good, replace the thermostat

Malaclypse

iTrader: (1)

Silver: You need a thermostat.

The Ecotecs are shippied with a thermostat that likes to stick from the factory. Its got a rubber seal around the opening orifice of the t-stat and that seal likes to distort, causing the thermostat to hang open. I've seen it all the time.

For every 50 thermostats I've replaced in ecotecs I think I've had one turn out to need a coolant temp sensor if that tells you the frequency of the problem.

sLAsh

iTrader: (2)

Change the stat. Running cold can keep it from going into closed loop and your gas mileage will suffer. If it is stuck partially open it will take longer to warm up and will still decrease your gas mileage just not as bad as if it is stuck fully open

nhanson

iTrader: (1)

What coolant temps are you seeing?

Silverbalt92

My coolant temps run between 180-197. Thats just what I notice, they go below that and higher than that sometimes.

Silverbalt92

I don't exactlu remember because I was so excited that the guy told me it wasnt a big deal and that nothing was seriously wrong with it :/ all I remember is that it said something about thermastat coolant or something. awe poooooop. Wouldnt there be other signs of it being a bad thermostat? Im a girl, I used to have an explorer but now I have my balt. So im not tooo Cobalt smart yet :/

Silverbalt92

And I get like 27.5 mpg

Sox-Fan

iTrader: (7)

There really is nothing seriously wrong, but you do need to pay attention to it. A new thermostat and a coolant flush and you'll be set. The new one will probably last forever.

Oh, and that shouldn't be too expensive. Just make sure whoever does it used Dexcool and you'll be good to go.

Silverbalt92

So I need a new thermostat and coolant flush? How much do canthey usually cost? And is it something my friend (who aldo has a cobalt) can do? Or should I go get it done?

Sox-Fan

iTrader: (7)

If you're opening the system to put in a thermostat it's a good time to replace the coolant. It's an easy job that anyone handy with cars can do. A thermostat is about 30 to 35 dollars. A couple of gallons of dexcool with run you about 25 dollars.

Sox-Fan

iTrader: (7)

By the way... driver's side of the motor. To the back.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/prob...anyone-150640/

Silverbalt92

Okay, ill seeeeee what my friend can dooo

johnccc

True that, I had the same problem, ended up been not a stuck open thermostat, the actual job for the thermostat was been performed, but that darn rubber seal with all those holes behind it, it was worn out and letting the coolant flow, even though the thermostat was closed. Its a good idea from GM though, it means you should never get stuck closed, which it much worse than stuck open, however, stuck open has its issues and should be repaired.

About the coolant temp sensor, as long as you do not have issues with the fan coming on, or reading the coolant temp from inside, its fine, however, the lifespan is about 5 years, depending on usage. At $15 for the ACdelco coolant temp sensor online, its cheaper than the thermostat, you may as well change it while you have everything drained.

I would also suggest a radiator flush additive before you add coolant, a few more bucks goes a long way.

Silverbalt92

Lol I need my own personal mechaniccccccccc.

EmperorJJ1

iTrader: (5)

damn i should do this. grr

johnccc

Not really, changing the thermostat is "brain-wise" extremely easy. However, it is quiet a pain in the you know what, been in the place its in. A few extenders for your socket will help you with that.


(After your thermostat repair, and drain plug screwed back in)

Flushing is basic, buy some radiator flush, read the instruction on the back, something like:

Add radiator flush, whole bottle, then water (not coolant), run the car for about 50-100 miles, if that takes a week it takes a week. Once you got almost 100 miles on the clock, drain the water and flush out, then rinse it with water to remove the rest of the flush, just put a hose pipe into the coolant reservoir, once your water is running clear from the bottom of the radiator, you can stop and let the rest of the water run down, plug the drainer cap back on, add your coolant (PRESTONE DEX COOL), add your coolant cap, then run the engine until it gets hot, let it cool down, then add more coolant, if needed.

dxdean3

i had this happen, had to replace the thermostat, mine normally runs between 75*c and 85*c, but for some stupid reason the dealer unplugged my fans and the car ran around 100*c town driving and around 50*c highway, they replaced it under warranty and havent had a problem since

rivaladore

iTrader: (7)

My thermostat crapped out around 60k. Remove the fuse box and you'll have less of a problem getting to the third pita bolt on the thermostat cover. Just went to autozone and picked up a duralast one I think. Didn't want to go oem bc they crapped out way too early. My civic had a thermostat with 140k on it. Could definitely see where the inner rubber seal had warped a little causing it to get stuck open. The duralast one had a little different design and looked much more durable the oem one

johnccc

The dealership forgot to reconnect your fan harness, law suite I see, lol.

You cooling fan is 100% required, if your idling your not getting any cooling at all, you can only get cooling when driving, which is barely enough to cool the engine and provide cooling for the AC condenser.

Honestly, its a good thing to replace the thermostat with your 1st coolant change as its an easy job and only about an extra 30 minutes on your coolant change (if not flushing).

Removing the fusebox would probably be more of a pain for the average noob, it would be easier to simply get a 8" extension and use that through the wiring and tubes to open up the thermostat housing.

rivaladore

iTrader: (7)

Removing the fuse box is actually fairly simply and makes getting to that bolt so much easier. There's a how to on here somewhere on how to remove the fuse box. The way gm positioned the hose clamp the on my car it was impossible for me to get a socket on that bolt. In order for me to get pliers on the clamp to adjust it out of the way I had to remove the fuse box. And once it was out of the way I had so much more room getting to the last bolt on the thermostat cover.

johnccc

Yes, its simple, but honestly, you can avoid all that by simply getting an extension for the socket, this would make for less steps in changing the thermostat, instead of removing several things, un-screwing several bolts, it would be as simple as using your extension to remove the thermostat housing and changing it out as apposed to removing things just to get to it. I have done this so many times on several cars, believe me, its quicker and easier just to work your way though the cables and hoses using an extension.

Using pliers on this is not recommended as you could deteriorate the bolt, always use the correct socket.

GM positioned this in a pain in the @$$ way, but I did it easily without removing anything, as have others here, don't make more work by removing other things.

rivaladore

iTrader: (7)

I had to use pliers on the hose clamp that was in the way of one of the bolts not on the bolt itself. Whoever put that clamp on put it in a position in such a way I couldn't get a socket on there, hence the removal of the fuse box to have more room to get pliers on the hose clamp and reposition it so I could get a socket on the last bolt.

johnccc

You actually do not remove the hose from the thermostat housing. (In a normal situation)

Even with the situation you said, it would be easy to remove the housing without removing the fuse box. Next time try getting a long extension and get it easier from above, works great, many times for me.

rivaladore

iTrader: (7)

I never said I removed the hose I just repositioned the hose clamp. The clamp was in the way no matter what socket deep or short or swivel or extension.... nothing could get it that area with the clamp in the way.