Turbo Lag
08-12-2006, 03:52 PM
#1
Turbo Lag
okay...i got a question totally unrlated to coalts...just cars in general
couldnt you prevent turbolag by revving your engine beforee you hit the gas? the urbine would strt spinning before your moving and i would assume it takes more than the 1-2 seconds to change into drive/1st gear for the turbo to stop spinning...
also...another random question...is it bad for a car (i'd assume the transmission) to rev your engine in neutral, and then switch to drive while the engines still turning around 4,000RPMs?
..i regret getting into cars so late...i know nothing of nothing...but ny answers would be great
couldnt you prevent turbolag by revving your engine beforee you hit the gas? the urbine would strt spinning before your moving and i would assume it takes more than the 1-2 seconds to change into drive/1st gear for the turbo to stop spinning...
also...another random question...is it bad for a car (i'd assume the transmission) to rev your engine in neutral, and then switch to drive while the engines still turning around 4,000RPMs?
..i regret getting into cars so late...i know nothing of nothing...but ny answers would be great
08-12-2006, 04:10 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: 03-14-05
Location: NJ
Posts: 3,120
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by HunterKiller89
also...another random question...is it bad for a car (i'd assume the transmission) to rev your engine in neutral, and then switch to drive while the engines still turning around 4,000RPMs?
Yes.
08-12-2006, 06:30 PM
#6
Senior Member
The idea wouldn't be to drop it into first but to rev at the line with the car in first gear to build some boost. Then slip the clutch in order to take off. That's how you get a good 60ft time at the track with turbo.
In an automatic it's a bit different. The idea here is to hold the brake with one foot and rev a little with the other, while in neutral. You should feel the brake pedal go down slightly, this is called vacuum locking. Now, slip the tranny into D (after the RPMS have settle back to idle) while keeping the foot on the brake. Rev to the desired launch RPM. Basically that will be whatever stall speed the torque converter is built for. Then when the light goes green let off the brakes and roll into wide open throttle, don't just mash the gas you will bog slightly, and your off like a rocket.
It's highly unlikely either technique is good on your car but if you are drag racing and want a decent time you have to do it.
In an automatic it's a bit different. The idea here is to hold the brake with one foot and rev a little with the other, while in neutral. You should feel the brake pedal go down slightly, this is called vacuum locking. Now, slip the tranny into D (after the RPMS have settle back to idle) while keeping the foot on the brake. Rev to the desired launch RPM. Basically that will be whatever stall speed the torque converter is built for. Then when the light goes green let off the brakes and roll into wide open throttle, don't just mash the gas you will bog slightly, and your off like a rocket.
It's highly unlikely either technique is good on your car but if you are drag racing and want a decent time you have to do it.
08-12-2006, 10:47 PM
#7
Member
Join Date: 11-28-05
Location: Cbus
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Turbos that make any sort of power need a certain degree of load on them to spool. I own an eclipse and my turbo barely hits 10 lbs in first (which is good considering it is fwd) but hits 21 lbs in all other gears. I can make a little boost with my stutter box because I can go WOT in neutral but usually try to not make boost considering the fwd situation. Another neat trick, called antilag, modifys the timing advance at idle and between shifts to allow more exhaust to pass through the manifold, thus spooling the turbo. Antilag can be found on many stand alone ECU systems and some piggybacks such as DSMLink.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post