what could be wrong with my brakes?
#26
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Yeah I guess you guys make a good point. I'd be nervous as well if my brakes weren't 100% reliable. I'm not arguing that ABS doesn't save lives. all I'm saying is that it does nothing that a human being can't do. Granted, only a small percentage of the population has that ability.
Bottom line I agree you need to get to the bottom of the issue.
Bottom line I agree you need to get to the bottom of the issue.
#28
With the fuse pulled the pedal is hard and doesn't sink. With the fuse in the pedal is mooshy and sinks.
The system was never empty. It's been bled numerous times though it hasn't seen a tech II to open the ABS.
I doubt it's under warranty, 2008 with 76k on it.
The system was never empty. It's been bled numerous times though it hasn't seen a tech II to open the ABS.
I doubt it's under warranty, 2008 with 76k on it.
#30
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I'd guess something is wrong with your abs module, I'd assume out valves are the 3postion open, closed and part pressure open. I'd also assume GM engineer the unit to fail full open, no abs is better than a unit failing closed and loosing your brakes.
#31
I'm thinking you're right. I'm also wishing there was some way to test it that didn't involve going to the dealership to pay out the ass for diagnostics only to be given the wrong answer, which has happened every time I've gone to the Chevy dealer down here. When I moved here from Washington I moved from the best Chevy dealer that spoiled me greatly, to the worst I've ever dealt with. Would rather not have to go there again.
#32
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Find an AC Delco shop, they might have the tech2 and would most likely charge less than a dealer, and just have them look at the abs module, I wouldn't expect one to be too difficult to replace (someone correct me if I'm wrong)
#35
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i gotta say this,
i did a crappy brake job about 2 years ago which resulted in squishy braking and the e-brake continued to be useless, but now the brakes/e-brake just started to act right a couple months ago. Now i can brake boost on the fly again.
i did a crappy brake job about 2 years ago which resulted in squishy braking and the e-brake continued to be useless, but now the brakes/e-brake just started to act right a couple months ago. Now i can brake boost on the fly again.
#38
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I'm thinking you're right. I'm also wishing there was some way to test it that didn't involve going to the dealership to pay out the ass for diagnostics only to be given the wrong answer, which has happened every time I've gone to the Chevy dealer down here. When I moved here from Washington I moved from the best Chevy dealer that spoiled me greatly, to the worst I've ever dealt with. Would rather not have to go there again.
Jackie
Chevrolet Customer Care
#39
Thank you Jackie, but after what I've seen from Chevrolet down here there is almost no chance of ever seeing my car anywhere near a Chevrolet dealer again. They've taken more than enough of my money, I'll not chase that with more. And Washington state is just a little too far to drive with broken brakes.
#40
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That's the first place I'd start. I'd also scan the car to see if there are any DTCs set related to the issue. Take it to the dealership, get a case started. This is a safety issue GM can't ignore.
#42
Update: Got to work on the car yesterday.
We got it on the lift, tires off. Visually inspected every fitting for leaks, found none. Inspected all the wiring for the speed sensors in the hubs, no fraying for signs of corrosion. Manually bled the brakes. No air. Put the Snap-On unit on it and ran the ABS test. Oddly enough it only ran the ABS motor on the left side, not the right. I've never used it before, so I don't know if that is normal or not. Pretty sure that the GM TechII does all 4 positions.
It's also kind of odd that the Snap-On makes you open the bleeder, push the pedal 4 times, then on the left side it runs the abs 4 more times. Then you finally close the bleeder. That sucked a lot of air back in on the 2 left side brakes, so we had to go back and bleed the whole car again.
In the end we used a quart and a half of ATE gold. Glad I always keep 2 new quarts of blue or gold in stock at all times. I'd have been pretty unhappy if we had run out.
Anyway, I got in the car and took it up the street. Same issue, no change. Came back into the garage bitching about it. My friend took it up the street and came back "maybe it's the driver, the brakes are fine." WTF? So I hopped back in and sure enough, the brakes are fine and hard this time. ABS works when I trip them in a wet parking lot.
So, fixed? I guess. I'm wondering why the Snap-On unit never ran the ABS system on the right hand side of the car. Or if it's supposed to. I have to get ahold of the documentation when I get back from vacation and find out.
I have my next Autox on the 14th, so I really want to have confidence that these truly are fixed before then.
We got it on the lift, tires off. Visually inspected every fitting for leaks, found none. Inspected all the wiring for the speed sensors in the hubs, no fraying for signs of corrosion. Manually bled the brakes. No air. Put the Snap-On unit on it and ran the ABS test. Oddly enough it only ran the ABS motor on the left side, not the right. I've never used it before, so I don't know if that is normal or not. Pretty sure that the GM TechII does all 4 positions.
It's also kind of odd that the Snap-On makes you open the bleeder, push the pedal 4 times, then on the left side it runs the abs 4 more times. Then you finally close the bleeder. That sucked a lot of air back in on the 2 left side brakes, so we had to go back and bleed the whole car again.
In the end we used a quart and a half of ATE gold. Glad I always keep 2 new quarts of blue or gold in stock at all times. I'd have been pretty unhappy if we had run out.
Anyway, I got in the car and took it up the street. Same issue, no change. Came back into the garage bitching about it. My friend took it up the street and came back "maybe it's the driver, the brakes are fine." WTF? So I hopped back in and sure enough, the brakes are fine and hard this time. ABS works when I trip them in a wet parking lot.
So, fixed? I guess. I'm wondering why the Snap-On unit never ran the ABS system on the right hand side of the car. Or if it's supposed to. I have to get ahold of the documentation when I get back from vacation and find out.
I have my next Autox on the 14th, so I really want to have confidence that these truly are fixed before then.
#44
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As far as ABS goes this is my first car to have it, none of my past cars had it, ha damn Saturns....
but from what i can tell its not bad, i've had to slam on the brakes many times, cats, dogs, deer, people normal things without it kicking on.... it's only ever kicked on in the snow, and that was a PAIN in the ass...
But what i would do, in your shoes is take it to a dealership and have them "diagnose" the issue then proceed to fix it yourself....
but from what i can tell its not bad, i've had to slam on the brakes many times, cats, dogs, deer, people normal things without it kicking on.... it's only ever kicked on in the snow, and that was a PAIN in the ass...
But what i would do, in your shoes is take it to a dealership and have them "diagnose" the issue then proceed to fix it yourself....
#46
Problem is that my local Chevy dealer couldn't "diagnose" a brake light out for 109 dollars, and couldn't tell the difference between Mobil 1 and non synthetic oil. I'm not going to trust my life to them.
Last time i was there two Yukons came in. One for an oil change, one for the tires to be rotated. Different colors, years, plates, Vins. They got them backwards. And my car got regular Oil, not Mobil1 as I asked for. I paid them 109 to diagnose the cruise not working. As they pulled it into the shop I noticed the what the issue was. It was one that I could not see from the driver's seat. After they did their tests they told me it was my brake light switch which is part of the pedal assembly (not true) and it would be 500 in parts plus 4 hours to fix.
So after I told them they were nuts I walked to the parking lot, plugged the third brake light back in, and drove home. Oh, and the switch that they said was part of the brake pedal assembly? 25 bucks at O'reilly.
So, that's what I'm dealing with. I'm on my own here.
I just need to find out if the Snap-On unit is supposed to energize the abs on both sides. If so, then I clearly need a new abs controller. If just the left side then I guess I'm ok now.
Last time i was there two Yukons came in. One for an oil change, one for the tires to be rotated. Different colors, years, plates, Vins. They got them backwards. And my car got regular Oil, not Mobil1 as I asked for. I paid them 109 to diagnose the cruise not working. As they pulled it into the shop I noticed the what the issue was. It was one that I could not see from the driver's seat. After they did their tests they told me it was my brake light switch which is part of the pedal assembly (not true) and it would be 500 in parts plus 4 hours to fix.
So after I told them they were nuts I walked to the parking lot, plugged the third brake light back in, and drove home. Oh, and the switch that they said was part of the brake pedal assembly? 25 bucks at O'reilly.
So, that's what I'm dealing with. I'm on my own here.
I just need to find out if the Snap-On unit is supposed to energize the abs on both sides. If so, then I clearly need a new abs controller. If just the left side then I guess I'm ok now.