This is just how i changed the rear control arm bushings. Do this at YOUR OWN RISK as im not a professional mechanic. I used intense racing control arm bushings.

Tools Needed

15mm, 16mm, and 21mm sockets and open ended wrenches

Breaker bar or Cheater bar

Small pry bar

Rubber Mallet

PB Blaster

Access to a Press


Removal

#1- Loosen the lug nuts and and raise vehicle place jackstands as needed

#2-Remove tire and loosen bolt that connects the Control arm to the steering nuckle found here. Size is 16mm you will want to socket one side and hold the nut on other.



#3- Being carful not to mess up the bushing or the boot above use a small pry bar and pry the bushings (nub) out of the nuckle



#4- Next remove the 3 bolts from the subframe 2 here. I believe these were 15mm.



and the last one here which is the rear control arm bushing. This was 21mm.



#5- You may need a cheater bar for the last step as it is not the easiest to unloosen. PB Blaster is a plus!



#6- After all bolts are removed wiggle the control arm out of place. I had to bend the metal plate below the rear bushing the help it out. You may not have to this is also helpful for the reinstall.

#7- Now press out the old rubber bushing and the thin metal around it. Then press in the new. I found that the old bushing could only come out one way. When pressing keep the nub that came out of the knuckle pointed up and press the bushing down. This may vary but im not sure this just what worked for me.

Here is the old crappy bushing that was worn out and was knocking around.



and the new in place





Reinstall

Reverse the order of removal.

#1- Place rear bushing into position and screw in. May need to bend that plate to help put them back in. 21mm



#2- Screw in other 2 subframe bolts. 15mm



#3- Place nub back into steering Knuckle securely. I found a rubber mallet helped alot for this. Then place bolt in and tighten. 16mm



#4- Double check all bolts and tighten to appropriate torque specs.

#4- Place tire back on and start the bolts

#5- Remove jackstands and all move stray tools lower vehicle and finish tightening the tire.


I hope this could help as i know many people have been trying to do this but there was no how to!!

 

Approved

 

Thanks...Great Write Up...Sub'd...Gotta Do This Soon

 

yea mine were getting pretty bad lots of knocking and banging going on lol works a lot better now though. i was told a alignment isnt a bad idea after either but havent yet

 

will this stop the clunking over bumps??? every time my front tires go over bumps the knocking is horrible.

 

click

 

Great write up
Did you feel any difference over stock?

 

well my knocking would occur on braking from 60 or so and then when starting from a dead stop. Over bumps im no expert but i might check the sway bar end links as my moms car does that and thats what they told her. I feel like it might be a tad stiffer and they claim to reduce some wheel hop........ i only had time to change the left side the other day but i will change the right on day this week and test that theory for all of you. The bushing from intense as im sure ottp's as well is a LOT better built then the stock rubber piece. And thank you guys i just hope this can help some of you all out because i know when i needed this i couldnt find it at all lol

 

My car does the same exact thing, i thought it was my brakes at first, i changed the rotors and pads and it went away so i figured problem solved, but about a month after i changed them it started happening again...I'll have to check this, because I already checked the end links and everything seems fine to me there.

 

yea mines still doing it a tad but i need to change the right side still and couldnt hurt to change my brakes since my rotors may be warped a little idk

 

subed no pics at work

 

anyone use this guide to do this yet????? just curious how its worked for everyone!!!!

 

Id love to hear a short review of the ride quality with the poly cabs. Mine are in dire need of being replaced, and I m thinking about going with polys, but want to make sure its not too tooth rattling.

 

in all honesty i dont notice a ton of rattle or anything. Ride overall seems a little bit stiffer idk if its just in my head or not though. But no real ride quality suffering. I would recommend to anyone!

 

OP, how long did this take about?

 

Doing this today

 

I didnt need to bend the plate back but it was hard. I found it was much much easier to get in once I jacked up the knuckle to get it out of the way

 

The entire rubber portion of the bushing on the passenger side of my car had separated and I had way to much movement. I was able to get the control arm out but I cannot get it back in. It appears that the side of that portion of the cradle has a larger opening than where you bent it. It would seem though that the proper way is to drop the cradle. Has anyone had any luck with that? I can't seem to get the cradle loose enough to actually drop down.

Quick addition here. I did not need to drop the cradle at all. I used a jack to push the steering knuckle up and was able to get plenty of more clearance to get the control arm in place.

 

great to hear!! and i would say depending on conditions experience or what not an hour or two? it took me around 2 hours i would say? but i wasnt rushing.

 

I had it apart in about 20 minutes. Then took about a half hour to get it all back together (once I figured out how to get the control arm in place). I didn't press the bushing in though. I took it to a local machine shop that did it for $15. If you consider me having to go to work and the trouble with getting the back of the control arm in place it took me well over 12 hours. Again though actual work time was only about an hour. I could have it done in less than an hour if I had to do it again (am going to replace the driver side soon as well). Someone I know who works at the GM dealer in town told me that they are constantly replacing these bushings on Cobalts.

 

Thanks for the great writeup! I changed out both bushings on my 05 Cobalt. I had a tough time getting the pin out of the steering knuckle (step 3) until I removed the 2 bolts holding the arm to the sub frame. Then it fell right out. I used a piece of 3/4" brass to pound out the old bushing. I used the same piece of brass to start the new bushing into the arm. I finished pushing it in with my vise with jaw protectors on it. I had to rotate the arm in the vise to keep the bushing going in straight - pushing in one side a bit, rotating the arm 180 degrees and then pushing in the other side. A press would be much easier. The first side took awhile to do as I was afraid of breaking something but the other side only took me a little more than an hour. It takes some finessing and patience to get everything back in but overall it is pretty easy to do. Thanks again for the writeup. It gave me the confidence to do this job and saved me a few hundred bucks!

 

I'm going to be replacing my fe1 control arms soon with fe5 ones, does anyone know the torque specs for the 21mm bolt, the 15mm bolt and the 16mm bolt? thanks!

 

I installed new CABs this weekend and the big clunk I had over the smallest bumps is now gone! This how-to was very useful! Thanks!

 

Is this truly for the REAR control arm bushings?
The thread mentions the steering knuckle which I assumed was in the front and this t.s.b. thread-
**********************************/forum/f71/tsb-noise-rear-suspension-3370/
seems to suggest that the when it says "Replace the rear suspension insulators following the Control Arm Bushing (Suspension Insulator) Replacement procedure in SI."- it means that the suspension insulator is the control arm bushing.

BTW-I have a clunk/rattle in the rear of my 2009 ss sedan and am trying to figure it out.
I've searched thread upon thread but I'm still not clear on whether it's an insulator,a cab, or what?

I'm very confused please help lol !

 

it is for the rear bushing in the control arm. the control arm is part of the front suspension.