I think you missed what I said there, if you thought this through you would know that this is before starting the car and when you push the gas and clutch to the floor you put the car into flood mode and it wont start. Let car turn over 20 times and it will turn the oil pump and put oil into the engine. I have normal ecotec and will probably switch back to 5w30 not because you suggested but because the thicker oil was my attempt at getting the tensioner to stay extended at higher rpms. In hind sight it may just have been the clogged or improper install of the filter. Dont rev the motor is right. Never did that. Man you must have thought I was beating on this new motor. LOL

 

go to amazon type in ecotec timing tensioner. You will find a 31 dollar part that is a better product than the LSJ one I had stock. I was having issues with timing slap noise but it ended up being a broken bolt. Fixed everything put the car back together. And the car is very happy.

 

10w30 will not hurt an engine only has a different flow/viscosity because of polymers in the oil. 5w30 is recommended because our cars are sold in cold weather locations. IE Canada In a southern climate 10w30 isnt going to get cold enough in April-Sept to hurt anything, just allowed me to have higher psi oil (in my estimation keeping the tensioner tighter) verified by my oil pressure gauge.

The tensioner can be allowed to lose tautness when you have heavy valve springs forcing the chain over the cam gear. That is why there is companies selling modified tensioners for lots of money. Cause they work. You can also see in the ecotec build book of a mechanical set tensioner. Why? Cause of valve springs and modified engines. I may not have a 1400 crazy ecotec but I am very far from a stock engine. This is why I need that extra pressure on the tensioner. I know this cause its my car, I have tested it and found the tensioner lacking just like the companies selling modified tensioners. You dont have to suggest it but the crazy amount of videos and threads say the LNF is a noisy piece and the timing area is what normally causing it.

 

^^^ wassup u mad?
LNF DI have a big problem with a noisy HP pump. The small SUV that GM make with the DI ecotec 2.4 they put in a THICKER FRONT WINDSHIELD (!) because of the noise.

NOT a tensioner issue.

You can do what you want to your motor, we never ran more than 5w30 in race ecotecs for GM ,never had an issue with the oil.

 

not mad, just clarifying. never said anything in anger and its just a forum.

 

the mechanical tensioner was made for ecotec engines that spend an extended time on the limiter(drifting) when the engine spends that much time on the limiter it will collapse the tensioner from the main chain being slammed into the tensioner guide not because of valve springs

from pg 38 of the sportcompact build book 3rd edition

For applications where extended time will be spent on the rev limiter, it is recommended that the hydraulic chain tensioner be converted to a mechanical tensioner. Take a 7/16-14 bolt and cut the head off for an overall length of 3.1009 and radius. Then cut the end of the bolt.
Slot the threaded end for ease of adjustment. Drill and tap the end of the adjuster for 7/16-14 thread.
To adjust the timing chain tensioner turn the engine to TDC (cylinder number 4) and tighten the adjuster to finger tight. Bar the engine over until the timing chain slacks between the cam gears. The number 1 cylinder intake lobes should be pointing straight up. Take a straight edge and lay it across the top of the cam gears. Adjust the tensioner to give .2009 chain deflection. Use silicone or an o-ring to seal the thread. Install the jam nut using silicone to hold it.
For applications over 1400 hp, a billet version of this chain tensioner is used (shown in Fig. 102).

 

I wonder if we can get the cobalt to drift in reverse

 

the drift ecotec engines were in rwd chassis cars

 

Not necessary.

 

we made that modified tensioner in our shops in 2004. Many of the photos in the build book came out of our shop. I would never recommend a manual tensioner on here, its hopelessly impractical and the carnage that can be caused over tensioning the chain is horrifying.

Like Mr. B says, totally not needed except for extreme situations.

BTW we made the flywheels for Exedy to install their clutches on the Millen Drift Solstice. If that means anything....

 

i know that is why if you drive a cobalt in reverse you now have a rear wheel drive car. I was kidding...

 

I know now, its where I was at the time with troubleshooting.

 

Its easy to monday morning quarterback my attempts at getting the kinks out of my timing issues but all is well now and I did what I did because changing a tensioner and oil and a filter wasnt cutting it. After overlooking a broke bolt twice after pulling the timing cover, it wasnt until I found the restricted oil pressure (filter) and replaced the bolt that everything started to work right.

Over the years I have seen those who share and those who dont, I guess its just better sometimes to not share every thought when going through issues with the car.

 

Its not an issue of not sharing. Its an issue that you post a procedure claiming it is absolutely need to change the tensioner, when in fact you dont need to do what you are claiming and passing your experience along as " the only way". Then argue over it.

good luck with your car, you have put a lot of time and effort into it.

 

i went back and read what I wrote. I dont think it came of procedurally sounding... Not arguing just that IF you are having issues why not try these things? I guess its easy to get argumentative when a person spends so much time troubleshooting, nothing was working, and in hindsight it ended up being a common mistakes. I want to contribute where I can so someone else trying to figure out what is or has failed on their car wont repeat my mistakes. I concede.

 

Thanks for that.^^^me too. And like I posted elsewhere the twisted filter I dont beleive changes much if anything, but for sure locking it into the black cap first stops it from happening... I didnt know that until about a year ago or so, never paid attention. FML lol

 

Well it was me. I can be so hardheaded sometimes, this car has stressed me to "THE" point. I have had to rebuy or refurbish so many parts on my car I felt like I was entitled to complain about the tensioner.

I have replaced the tensioner, headliner, sunroof drain, hvac motor, bumper parts sagging, sunroof bezel broken, remote keyfob resoldered, endlinks rattled, plastic clips breaking, reverse back up light switch broken, cabin air filter, interior paint wearing, replaced broken child safety restraints covers, seat cushions breaking down, just to name a few. That after a while you feel like you have to re-engineer everything. Just burned out and being called out just made me realize its me sometimes, not just the car.

 

Marked

 

i cannot believe i simply removed my old tensioner and threw in the new one after reading this procedure. how is my engine still alive...

 

Hey Riceburner, I like the new sig

 

Question guys has anyone had my issue after doing my cams on the lnf went to put the tensioner back in and it stayed compressed tried everything so pulled it out hit it with the rubber mallet amongst a billion other things won't pop back out??? I'm ordering a new one but the thing is my current is the new style if anyone has ideas throw em my way I would love to play with this damn thing to figure out what's happening or of it was on the way out would my wotbox cause any damage?

 

put it in /dont hit it /dont do anything crazy /just install and torque it . The workshop manual procedure DOES NOT APPLY to the new replacement tensioners.

 

Oh so I broke it...ok ill buy the new one won't smack it thanks John

 

if you are installing camshafts in an LNF you need the service tool to hold the VVT sprockets in place; the procedure to time the cams is not easy to get right and very easy to screw up; you will get codes for the camshaft actuators and the car will run but not well if you get it wrong. If they are ZZP cams its a good bet they checked to make sure they are correct, sometimes they are not machined correctly.If you purchase a work shop manual the process is well described and important to follow exactly. CED.com have the manuals a very good investment.
Good luck.

 

I have the tool but timing chain had already jumped a tooth before I had even started checked everything out and it was off guessing it may have been weakened if that's what was going on I'm glad I caught it before it caused any real damage.