All Engines: How to: DIY alcohol injection
04-13-2007, 05:00 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 03-04-07
Location: Hellertown PA
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How to: DIY alcohol injection
DIY alcohol injection
I made this up a pretty long time ago in my turbo buick days, so some prices might have changed since then. It's more of just a guideline for those who don't want to shell out major $$ for a pre made kit. Enjoy!
PARTS
-Pump- The pump comes from Portable Generators, Pressure Washers, Power Tools, Welders | Northern Tool + Equipment. Part # 2687. It flows 1.02gpm @60psi and is capable over 100psi (adjustable screw on top/bypassing the pressure switch). 3/8 inlet and outlets (female), with no fittings supplied. $69.99
-Nozzles- McMaster-Carr has the nozzles you need. Search for “misting nozzles” . They are just the standard cone spray (not hollow) brass nozzles. They come in sizes m1-m15 (@100psi) and are (I believe) 1/8" NPT male connector (barbed fitting needed). $3.81 each.
-Gauge- The same place as above sells a 0-160psi gauge. You don’t need the gauge but it helps with tuning the pressure of the pump. Part # 3793K13. $9.33
-Check valve/solenoid- There are 2 choices here. You can either get the one check valve from Water Injection, Methanol Injection, Alcohol Injection Systems | Coolingmist (Best), which is a 1/4" NPT female (no barbed fittings supplied). It has a 22psi cracking pressure so it will never open under vacuum, and it’s brass. $29.99. Or you can get a solenoid from them for $39.99.
-Boost switch- Adjustable one from coolingmist again. It’s adjustable from 1-25psi, normally open. $24.99
-Resiviour- Go to the local auto parts store and get yourself a radiator overflow. The biggest you can fit the better. ~15 bucks.
-Lines/fittings/misc- Auto store for the lines. 1/4" fuel injection line is best. The total length depends on how you set it up. I like the keep the lines short as possible. A bunch of small hose clamps. The fittings can be bought at home depot (1/4"npt barbed can be found there, but the 1/8"npt will probably have to be bought at the auto store or possibly from McMaster-Carr . You’ll also need some wire. For the pump 10 gauge, and some thinner stuff for the relay/led etc.
-LED- Radioshack. Get whatever color you like. You’ll also need an LED holder from there too. Remember there is a + and - for the LED. Anode (+) has the longer lead and Cathode (-) has the shorter lead and also could have a flat side on the plastic if viewed from the top.
-Relay/fuse holder- Just a regular 5 spot automotive relay and a fuse holder. 10-15 amp fuse (blade or tube style are both fine).
INSTALLATION
Refer to the diagram for installation. Some things to remember:
- Keep the solenoid or COOLINGMIST check valve within 12" of the nozzle. The GM check valve should go in between the resiviour and the pump.
-Use teflon tape or pipe dope on the fitting. SOLDER your wires. The last thing you need is a wire falling off while on the ragged edge of detonation.
-Don’t take apart the nozzle. If you do and the pill falls out the slotted face faces up. Just don’t do it
-Terminal 87A on the relay is NOT used.
-To test the system (after it’s hooked up of course), turn the ignition on and ground terminal 85.
-Adjusting it is pretty easy. Run the car and build boost slowly. Watch for the led to go on (I believe the are sent out at 10psi closed) and note what psi it’s at. You’ll have to find out how early to turn it on depending on what your car likes. If it bogs it’s too early, or too much pressure, or too big of a nozzle or a combination of those. It you turn it on too late, or have too small of a nozzle, or not enough pressure, or a combination of those you will detonate. You’ll have to research about alcohol on your car to find what’s the best starting combo (what size nozzle, starting psi, and pump psi) for you and go from there.
-The pump I used is listed as NOT safe for methanol. There isn’t any commercial available pump that is, except if you want to use a fuel pump that is designed for e85 as I think those work, but I like the shurflo pumps. This information was researched when I originally wrote this a year or so ago. Some of the companies said you could run methanol, but would probalby have to rebuild the pump in the future and you should use klotz lube. BTW, I'm pretty sure that most of the major companies use shurflo based pumps for their kits. So take this as you will. You can use denatured alcohol, or isopropyl (rubbing alcohol). I used the rubbing alcohol. You can get it in 90/10 mix, and I think 50/50. You’ll have to look at them at the store. Walmart has the cheap big bottles of it. If you use denatured (home depot) or methanol you will probably have to use klotz lube in your pump. Mix the alcohol/water to whatever your car likes.
-Keep it clean too, you don’t want clogs in your lines.
To run a dual stage system measure the resistance across the terminals on the pump and get a power resistor that is ½ of that reading. It has to be at least a 10 watt resistor too or it will fry. Install it according to the RED in the diagram. This will get you 1/2 pump pressure in the first stage and full pressure in the second.
I made this up a pretty long time ago in my turbo buick days, so some prices might have changed since then. It's more of just a guideline for those who don't want to shell out major $$ for a pre made kit. Enjoy!
PARTS
-Pump- The pump comes from Portable Generators, Pressure Washers, Power Tools, Welders | Northern Tool + Equipment. Part # 2687. It flows 1.02gpm @60psi and is capable over 100psi (adjustable screw on top/bypassing the pressure switch). 3/8 inlet and outlets (female), with no fittings supplied. $69.99
-Nozzles- McMaster-Carr has the nozzles you need. Search for “misting nozzles” . They are just the standard cone spray (not hollow) brass nozzles. They come in sizes m1-m15 (@100psi) and are (I believe) 1/8" NPT male connector (barbed fitting needed). $3.81 each.
-Gauge- The same place as above sells a 0-160psi gauge. You don’t need the gauge but it helps with tuning the pressure of the pump. Part # 3793K13. $9.33
-Check valve/solenoid- There are 2 choices here. You can either get the one check valve from Water Injection, Methanol Injection, Alcohol Injection Systems | Coolingmist (Best), which is a 1/4" NPT female (no barbed fittings supplied). It has a 22psi cracking pressure so it will never open under vacuum, and it’s brass. $29.99. Or you can get a solenoid from them for $39.99.
-Boost switch- Adjustable one from coolingmist again. It’s adjustable from 1-25psi, normally open. $24.99
-Resiviour- Go to the local auto parts store and get yourself a radiator overflow. The biggest you can fit the better. ~15 bucks.
-Lines/fittings/misc- Auto store for the lines. 1/4" fuel injection line is best. The total length depends on how you set it up. I like the keep the lines short as possible. A bunch of small hose clamps. The fittings can be bought at home depot (1/4"npt barbed can be found there, but the 1/8"npt will probably have to be bought at the auto store or possibly from McMaster-Carr . You’ll also need some wire. For the pump 10 gauge, and some thinner stuff for the relay/led etc.
-LED- Radioshack. Get whatever color you like. You’ll also need an LED holder from there too. Remember there is a + and - for the LED. Anode (+) has the longer lead and Cathode (-) has the shorter lead and also could have a flat side on the plastic if viewed from the top.
-Relay/fuse holder- Just a regular 5 spot automotive relay and a fuse holder. 10-15 amp fuse (blade or tube style are both fine).
INSTALLATION
Refer to the diagram for installation. Some things to remember:
- Keep the solenoid or COOLINGMIST check valve within 12" of the nozzle. The GM check valve should go in between the resiviour and the pump.
-Use teflon tape or pipe dope on the fitting. SOLDER your wires. The last thing you need is a wire falling off while on the ragged edge of detonation.
-Don’t take apart the nozzle. If you do and the pill falls out the slotted face faces up. Just don’t do it
-Terminal 87A on the relay is NOT used.
-To test the system (after it’s hooked up of course), turn the ignition on and ground terminal 85.
-Adjusting it is pretty easy. Run the car and build boost slowly. Watch for the led to go on (I believe the are sent out at 10psi closed) and note what psi it’s at. You’ll have to find out how early to turn it on depending on what your car likes. If it bogs it’s too early, or too much pressure, or too big of a nozzle or a combination of those. It you turn it on too late, or have too small of a nozzle, or not enough pressure, or a combination of those you will detonate. You’ll have to research about alcohol on your car to find what’s the best starting combo (what size nozzle, starting psi, and pump psi) for you and go from there.
-The pump I used is listed as NOT safe for methanol. There isn’t any commercial available pump that is, except if you want to use a fuel pump that is designed for e85 as I think those work, but I like the shurflo pumps. This information was researched when I originally wrote this a year or so ago. Some of the companies said you could run methanol, but would probalby have to rebuild the pump in the future and you should use klotz lube. BTW, I'm pretty sure that most of the major companies use shurflo based pumps for their kits. So take this as you will. You can use denatured alcohol, or isopropyl (rubbing alcohol). I used the rubbing alcohol. You can get it in 90/10 mix, and I think 50/50. You’ll have to look at them at the store. Walmart has the cheap big bottles of it. If you use denatured (home depot) or methanol you will probably have to use klotz lube in your pump. Mix the alcohol/water to whatever your car likes.
-Keep it clean too, you don’t want clogs in your lines.
To run a dual stage system measure the resistance across the terminals on the pump and get a power resistor that is ½ of that reading. It has to be at least a 10 watt resistor too or it will fry. Install it according to the RED in the diagram. This will get you 1/2 pump pressure in the first stage and full pressure in the second.
Last edited by TommyP; 10-03-2012 at 12:51 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post