Drivetrain: "How to" fill your motor/tranny mounts with polyurethane
#26
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before and after pics.......
Rear mount
Front mount
Middle stage (bout 2-3 days)
Rear mount:
Front mount:
all done:
Rear mount
Front mount
Rear mount
Front mount
Middle stage (bout 2-3 days)
Rear mount:
Front mount:
all done:
Rear mount
Front mount
Last edited by QuikFKR; 05-17-2007 at 10:51 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#27
Senior Member
Rick1217...
Use this link for help with removing the fuse box. It's a great step by step guide:
LSJ Removal Manual
Use this link for help with removing the fuse box. It's a great step by step guide:
LSJ Removal Manual
#30
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I am doing my clutch and I have the engine being held by 1 motor mount (passanger side one) and I have a Jack with 2 pieces of wood on top of the jack against the engine oil pan, and no problems, but be VERY careful, oil pan = Cast and it can crack real easy to jack it VERY slow, and stop as soon as you see the engine try to move up. Also an even safer way is to have an engine hoist hooked to the engine hook, and lift up a little with that. Same effect, just hoist is much safer. the other 3 mounts are on my floor.
Also this is a between method of "real-deal" mounts and stock ones. I personally have trued both real mounts and filled mounts on my old civic and it was the same. obviously I like cheaper method. And I like doing everything myself. Good luck
Also this is a between method of "real-deal" mounts and stock ones. I personally have trued both real mounts and filled mounts on my old civic and it was the same. obviously I like cheaper method. And I like doing everything myself. Good luck
#32
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#34
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basically get whatever you want. if you want harder mounts, use harder stuff like poly-urethane, want softer then you should use silicon or something that has alot of squish to it. Either way, anything you do will add more stiffness, anything that fills in the air will add SOME stiffness.
And no I wouldn't recommend doing this with out taking mounts off. You need to fill them and let the fill harden a little bit, atleast a days time. If you don't you'll end up with less fill in the middle where you want it.
And no I wouldn't recommend doing this with out taking mounts off. You need to fill them and let the fill harden a little bit, atleast a days time. If you don't you'll end up with less fill in the middle where you want it.
#36
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Well anyways I did the 3 trans mounts but not the engine mount and it hold on for dear life now, to bad the tires can't say the same lol. Stage 4 clutch + fidanza flywheel and I still couldn't get the wheel to bounce, so I would say a success. Also for anyone looking to get even more rigid design, put flat stock of aluminum or steel and press them into the mounts so there is even more mass of solid so once the mounts move to the fills stretch point it will start to compress the flat stock, which since it's beefy will not compress hence semi solid mounts. Good luck!
#37
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Well anyways I did the 3 trans mounts but not the engine mount and it hold on for dear life now, to bad the tires can't say the same lol. Stage 4 clutch + fidanza flywheel and I still couldn't get the wheel to bounce, so I would say a success. Also for anyone looking to get even more rigid design, put flat stock of aluminum or steel and press them into the mounts so there is even more mass of solid so once the mounts move to the fills stretch point it will start to compress the flat stock, which since it's beefy will not compress hence semi solid mounts. Good luck!
#39
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Yeah, the only time it vibrates is when its at idle and when your pulling off. When your at idle, you can feel it but its not bad. With the music up a little you forget about it, but when your pulling off and if you dont give it enough gas, then you will fill the vibes more. I used something different then what most people use. I used Devcon Flexane 94, 40 dollars for it and its enough to do the job. I filled in my front and rear tranny mounts, and the top engine mount. Mines a daily driver and I already love it. I got it done today after baking it in the oven for 4 hours at 175 degrees. I then let it cool off for about 1 hour because it was freakin hot and then installed them. Took it easy driving around for about 50 miles and I just couldnt hold back no more. I pulled up to a stop light and just launched it. BOY let me tell you, the car has no wheel hop and spins alot less. Ive never had the clean of a pull of in the car since I got it. Its get so much better traction and now Im not scared of breaking transmission casing or axles because it has no wheel hop. I highly recommend doing it. Imma also buy the Ingalls Torque Dampener and traction bars just to give me that much more reasurrance. Good luck and i would deffinetly do it. If you have any questions just pm me and i will help you out with the process in where to get the stuff I bought and anything else you need.
#40
Thanks so much for the detailed response! Sounds like its worth it for the improved traction. Daily driveability is my main concern so I guess Ill just have to see how bad the wheel hop is.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#42
Senior Member
incase anyone cares...
befo...
afta...
also, i have a toaster oven that i use to cure paint on RC car parts and things... setting it at like 160-175 for a few hours REALLY helps make it set.
befo...
afta...
also, i have a toaster oven that i use to cure paint on RC car parts and things... setting it at like 160-175 for a few hours REALLY helps make it set.
#44
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i didn't see this how to until today, but i already filled my front and rear trans mounts after seeing a post from a guy with a civic on another site. This definitely makes the car feel a whole lot better when taking off, i used 3m polyurethane windo weld, worked like a charm but gets very messy very quick if you're not careful.
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