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2.0 LSJ Engine: "How To" Install OTTP's 4th Gen Heat Exchanger w/o Removing the Bumper

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Old 07-07-2010 | 12:14 PM
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From: NEPA
"How To" Install OTTP's 4th Gen Heat Exchanger w/o Removing the Bumper

Here's a quick "How To" for installing OTTP's newest version of their Heat Exchanger.

OTTP "4th Version" Dual Pass Heat Exchanger:


Here's what the 1/4" NPT Plug looks like installed. I recommend you get this, because the drain that comes installed on the Heat Exchanger hangs very low. You can find the required NPT Plug at any local hardware store. Mine ran me about 89 cents, haha. Make sure to wrap it in teflon tape to help avoid any leaks.


I installed the Heat Exchanger by sliding it up through the bottom of the front fascia. It's a tight sqeeze, but once it's positioned correctly the Heat Exchanger will fit great. I was working as a one man band so I had my jack hold up the Heat Exchanger while I marked the placement of the holes.


Once the bracket locations are marked out, use a 3/8" drill bit to make the required bolt holes.


Note: Elongate the holes to aid in final adjustment/placement of the heat exchanger.

Reinstall the Heat Exchanger through the bottom of the front fascia, and install the 2 bolts. I removed the grill in order to tighten the bolts. Although not required, it makes the job a hell of a lot easier. Make sure you are lined up correctly, and tighten the 2 bolts. I then removed the front spoiler to better access the fittings on the Heat Exchanger when connecting my lines. Run the lines as follows:

w/o Dual Pass Endplate
http://www.zzperformance.com/miscftp/HE%20routing1.jpg
w/ Dual Pass Endplate
http://www.zzperformance.com/miscftp/HE%20routing2.jpg

This is how the Heat Exchanger should look from the top once installed.


I filled my coolant system using an 80% Distilled Water / 20% Dexcool mixture for added cooling benefits. Make sure to take your time filling. Once your coolant system is filled and bled of air go out and enjoy your low IAT2's !!!

Last edited by Staged07SS; 08-15-2014 at 09:25 AM.
Old 07-08-2010 | 11:27 PM
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Approved.
Old 07-08-2010 | 11:35 PM
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exactly how i did it lol
Old 07-09-2010 | 08:33 AM
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by Black SS/SC 06
Approved.
Thanks

Originally Posted by Tarheel62592
exactly how i did it lol
Good to hear. I figured some pictures, and an explanation would help some of the others who havent installed it yet.

Last edited by Staged07SS; 07-09-2010 at 08:33 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 07-09-2010 | 08:42 AM
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nice
Old 07-09-2010 | 05:11 PM
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Is yours like snug? Mine just fit in there and its right up againt the lip
Old 07-09-2010 | 05:14 PM
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nice!!!!!!!!!
Old 07-12-2010 | 08:16 AM
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by Tarheel62592
Is yours like snug? Mine just fit in there and its right up againt the lip
Mine fit real good. It is a snug fit, but it isnt rubbing anywhere.
Old 07-12-2010 | 08:19 AM
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NICE "how to" dude
Old 07-12-2010 | 08:20 AM
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by Berto09ss
NICE "how to" dude
Thanks !
Old 07-16-2010 | 09:21 PM
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From: NEPA
I want to add a little note:

I see lots of peoples setups contain either the GM Stage 2 tune with a 2.9 pulley, or a custom tune with a 2.9 pulley, but no cooling mods. Trust me when I say that you def. want a heat exchanger or dual pass for anything under the 3.06" Gm Stage 2 pulley. I'm running the 2.99" GM Stage 3 pulley, and when I was on the stock cooling system my car would usually maintain +34*F over ambient while crusing, but would get pretty damn high at the end of a 3rd gear pull (155*F +). Now my car maintains a consistent IAT2 temp of +15-20*F over ambient while crusing, and doesnt go over 135*F on a warm day after a 3rd gear pull. Cooling mods are a must on a blower car. So the next time someone on this site says running a 2.9" pulley is boarder line safe w/o cooling mods, go do yourself a favor and buy some cooling mods !!

My car is loving the lower charge air temps. It's even running a little stronger due to the fact that it doesnt pull timing anymore.
Old 07-16-2010 | 09:27 PM
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subed for later
Old 07-17-2010 | 02:00 AM
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This one looks a lot thinner than the last one. I was wondering how the heck you installed it without removing the bumper lol.

It is definitely wider too.

Last edited by Black SS/SC 06; 07-17-2010 at 02:00 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 07-17-2010 | 02:08 AM
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Beautiful... sub'd
Old 07-18-2010 | 08:33 AM
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im going to need this for later and BTW looks amazing
Old 07-18-2010 | 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Staged07SS
I want to add a little note:

I see lots of peoples setups contain either the GM Stage 2 tune with a 2.9 pulley, or a custom tune with a 2.9 pulley, but no cooling mods. Trust me when I say that you def. want a heat exchanger or dual pass for anything under the 3.06" Gm Stage 2 pulley. I'm running the 2.99" GM Stage 3 pulley, and when I was on the stock cooling system my car would usually maintain +34*F over ambient while crusing, but would get pretty damn high at the end of a 3rd gear pull (155*F +). Now my car maintains a consistent IAT2 temp of +15-20*F over ambient while crusing, and doesnt go over 135*F on a warm day after a 3rd gear pull. Cooling mods are a must on a blower car. So the next time someone on this site says running a 2.9" pulley is boarder line safe w/o cooling mods, go do yourself a favor and buy some cooling mods !!

My car is loving the lower charge air temps. It's even running a little stronger due to the fact that it doesnt pull timing anymore.
listen to this guy he speaks thr troof...the more cooling mods the better make sure u gotta a complete exhaust system that supports ur mods too
Old 07-18-2010 | 05:33 PM
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by Black SS/SC 06
This one looks a lot thinner than the last one. I was wondering how the heck you installed it without removing the bumper lol.

It is definitely wider too.
Yeah, it's a lot wider than the 3rd Gen. It fills the whole grill opening. It's slides up nicely from the bottom of the front fascia. You just need to angle it in as you slide it up. Once it's inside the bumper it's just matter of adjusting it so the brackets fit as flush as possible against the crash bar.

Originally Posted by SunburstSS
listen to this guy he speaks thr troof...the more cooling mods the better make sure u gotta a complete exhaust system that supports ur mods too
Thanks man !! People need to understand how important it is to keep the charge air temps cool. Dropping pulley sizes with out adding cooling mods will do nothing performance wise. You will end up with stock power levels due to the car pulling timing from the excessive heat.

Last edited by Staged07SS; 07-18-2010 at 05:33 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 07-20-2010 | 09:08 PM
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why use distilled water and dexcool? why not just all dexcool
Old 07-20-2010 | 09:12 PM
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dexcool is pretty corrosive on it's own. if you haven't looked at your manual, it tells you to never add just dexcool on it's own Always mixed with distilled water

and and good write up man! I'll use this when I put mine on in a week or so!

Last edited by SylverSS/SC; 07-20-2010 at 09:12 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 07-20-2010 | 09:15 PM
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what is the best ratio for cooling and not freezing in the winter since im in ny?

i plan on using it to but i gotta wait till i get my grilles back and do it all at once awesome wright up and even with the links

Last edited by link_630; 07-20-2010 at 09:15 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 07-21-2010 | 01:30 AM
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by link_630
what is the best ratio for cooling and not freezing in the winter since im in ny?

i plan on using it to but i gotta wait till i get my grilles back and do it all at once awesome wright up and even with the links
I have a chart that tells you all the freezing points of dexcool mixtures. 50/50 would be your best bet if youre driving your car year round. A 60% Water 40 % Dexcool & 70% Water 30% Dexcool will still give you good freeze protection, but will cool better than a 50/50 mix. I run a 80% Water 20% Dexcool mix (freeze protection to 16*F), but I only drive my car in late spring - early fall.

Originally Posted by link_630
why use distilled water and dexcool? why not just all dexcool
100% distilled water has the best cooling properties of all. Dexcool is the antifreeze part of the mixture. That's why a higher % water vs. % Dexcool in your cooling system will yield better results.

Originally Posted by SylverSS/SC
dexcool is pretty corrosive on it's own. if you haven't looked at your manual, it tells you to never add just dexcool on it's own Always mixed with distilled water

and and good write up man! I'll use this when I put mine on in a week or so!
Thanks !! Glad you found it helpful. Post any questions in this thread you may have during the install, and I'll try to answer them to the best of my knowledge

Last edited by Staged07SS; 07-21-2010 at 01:30 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 08-02-2010 | 12:25 AM
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so are u only gm stage 3(trifecta) and u did this? im still stock and my temps are 180 ususally is that bad?
Old 08-02-2010 | 08:12 AM
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From: NEPA
Originally Posted by Render2009
so are u only gm stage 3(trifecta) and u did this? im still stock and my temps are 180 ususally is that bad?
I'm GM Stage 3 .... I do not have any Trifecta tuning other than A/C enabled.

I'm also running an H62 supercharger (instead of the production M62 supercharger) with a slightly smaller pulley (74mm) than the GM Stage 3 pulley (76mm).

I highly recommend that people buy a secondary heat exchanger for any pulley size smaller than the GM Stage 2 77.9mm pulley.

Do you have a scan gauge? I feel that you are possibly reading your engine temp and not your IAT2 temps. If your IAT2 temps are 180, and you are on the stock pulley then more than likely your intercooler pump has **** the bed.

Last edited by Staged07SS; 08-02-2010 at 09:32 AM.
Old 08-06-2010 | 12:20 PM
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how do we hook up the tubing?
Old 08-06-2010 | 12:52 PM
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I live in a hot climate (Southern Alabama)
Would this HE effect my air conditioning? And Engine Coolant temps? Since its in front basicly heating up the air before it flows through the condinser and the radiator?



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