I dont quite understand what you are asking me.

You didnt install the zzp heat exchanger yet, but want to know if you need to drain the coolant?

To install the heat exchanger you are going to need to drain the coolant, and then refill once the install is complete.

1. Fill with coolant through the little T-fitting you installed in place of the stock filler neck. Fill until you see coolant bleed out from the top of the stock heat exchangers bleeder hole.

2. Plug the stock heat exchanger with the bleeder line from the option b surge tank.

3. Continue filling with coolant until it reaches the T-fitting.

4. Start the car to allow the coolant to flow through the system a bit, and make sure you see coolant flowing through the bottom of the T-fitting.

5. Attach the 3/4" hose from the option b tank to the T-fitting.

6. Add coolant to the option b surge tank until you reach the cold fill line.

7. Run the car a bit, and add coolant if need be. The surge tank should bleed the entire system of air after you run the car a bit.

Hope this helps.

 

Hey can someone tell me approximately how much total coolant the system will use? (I dont want to overbuy or underbuy on the coolant). Thanks!

 

By a gallon of coolant. It should be more than enough.

 

Thanks a lot!

 

No prob!

Post any questions you have during the install here.

 

Nice how to Jeff, short, simple and to the point
I got another mod underway to test out, I'll PM you some info later on.

 

Thanks Roel!

Looking forward to hearing about it. I have somethings I'm doing as well. I'll fill you in when I hear from you.

 

Just installed my zzp s3 heat exchanger last night. It went pretty smoothly other than some minor trimming of the bumper....This how-to helped a lot, thanks for the write up!

 

I'm glad it helped you out.

 

Staged do you have the diagrams of the h/e routing with option b? Ive been searching and can't seem to find the option b routing without dual pass.

 

w/o the dual pass it's very simple.

Remove the stock filler, and install a T-fitting in its place. Then run a 3/4" line to the opt b expansion tank. Followed by running a 1/4" line from the bleeder fitting on the opt. b tank to the bleeder fitting on the stock heat exchanger.

 

Awesome, thanks a lot staged, the black tube running off the option b tank doesnt get hooked to anything correct?

 

Correct.

That is an overflow tube.

 

There is a tiny white cylinder with a small hole through the center in my option b hardware bag. What is it?

 

That is the 0.040" orifice you place in the bleeder fitting. That fitting is very important, and is what makes the Opt. B setup work.

 

Jesus, I wish there was a how to on this. Alright so the white .040 orifice goes into the top end of the gold bleeder fitting which screws into the stock h/e right?

 

just kidding, def. doesnt go there lol. im so confused

 

hmm ok so according to crate engine depot, the orifice gets put in the hose and then pushed over the bleeder fitting?

 

The orifice gets pressed into the brass fitting that you screw into the top of the stock heat exchanger. You then press the hoes onto the brass fitting.

 

wow, lol. any tips on how you got that sucker in there? And just let me double check this with you. Its getting pressed into the threaded end of the fitting correct, bc its way too big for the end that the hose goes on

 

Actually, i think something here is screwed up, that orifice is not gonna fit into either end of that fitting

 

Ok lol. Crate engine depots instructions read: "Slide the air bleed fitting into the hose before clamping onto the brass fitting." Then it shows a picture of the orifice pressed into the hose.

 

Which is what I have been telling you to do

You press the orifice in through the bottom of the brass fitting. The skinny end should be pointing up towards the Opt. B expansion tank. You then place the 1/4" hose on to the brass fitting after it is screwed into the stock heat exchanger.

 

I think we are missin each other here staged haha. Im saying to press the white orifice into the hose first, then to put it onto the brass fitting. Youre saying that I need to press the orifice into the bottom of the brass fitting, then screw the fitting in, and go from there.



This i what I'm looking at. So the fitting gets screwed in, then the orifice pushed up into the hose, and then the hose pushed down onto the fitting. I tried to fit that orifice in the bottom of that fitting like you said, but theres no way thats gonna fit, its just simply too big.

 

Like I mentioned in your other thread....

That reducer fitting looks different than mine, and the one in the GMR Stage 3 installation instructions.