great how to staged. i'm doing this tomorrow! so... sub'd! hey is the top or bottom line coming out of the back of the stock h/e the in or out hose?

so is it (on the back of the stock radiator)

top hose = in

bottom hose = out

or reverse?

 

http://www.zzperformance.com/miscftp/HE%20routing1.jpg

 

This may help some
How to Drill Hard Steel - YouTube

 

Better question: How do we get the tubing to bend 90 degrees in a tight radius without kinking?

I couldn't get the holes exactly marked so they were slightly off, I had to oversize drill them with a step drill, and I still didn't get them perfect, but its physically instaleld now. I just have to route the tubing.

Why didn't they make the tabs for the mount to use the bumper panel connection. Replace the plastic body bolts with the cap bolts. That would have been WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY eayser....

 

YES!

Engine Cruise Coolant Tempature went from 180-185 to 185 - 190

 

I had no issues with bending the hose. Mine is not bent at a 90. I gradually bent it out from the connectors on the heat exchanger. This prevented any kinks from happening.

I also oversized the holes in order to get perfect fitment, and ease of adjustment. Something I should have mentioned when I first made this thread.

It did not affect mine what so ever. Although in theory it should.

My cars ECT has always been around 170ish-175ish, and 180ish on hotter days. With or w/o the front mount heat exchanger.

 

thanks for the how to. helped a bit.. i wound up cutting about an inch square out of the bumper plastic to fit it more flush.

 

you shouldn't have had to cut the bumper at all

 

I made my holes oblong, so I could further adjust the heat exchanger's placement. My heat exchanger sits perfectly flush to the bumper support/crash bar. You didn't need to cut anything out.

I wish you contacted me so I could have helped you out a bit more.

 

I did not have to do any cutting, though I did have to bend the bumper some to get it in, but it fits back now that it's in. I thought I *might* have to Trim the bumper abit, but that ended up not being nesscary. Would have been nice if they would have put the tabs so that you could use the same holes in the frame that the bumper plastic mounts to

But thanks, good write up. Helped me alot, since I didnt have a clue where to start. I needed to find a how to to drill steel, haha. But that guy's meathode (on a few posts back) didn't work with me because its too thin, it kept wanting to bend and then the bit drove in like a sheet metal screw, so I baught a Step Drill/ Unibit and that worked like a CHAMP!

Glad I had safety Glasses/goggles though.

 

Maybe because your in PA (according to your user profile) and I'm in Southern AL

 

Ehhh....

When I installed mine it was one of the hottest summers in PA (95* almost every day for a month). No change.

Although, a hotter climate could def be the difference.

 

Maybe mine was just because I had bugs on the radiator and havnt really watched my coolant temps in the immediant days up to before the install. I hope theres nothing wrong with my engine thats makeing it a little warmer, even though its still withen limits.
It was about 90 when I drove it with the HE on, and plumbing not hooked up, Ill try to get it this week if I can find some time to use the lift onbase. Right now the holes are plugged with a rang and some zip ties.

 

Darn well really it wasn't much and it wont even be noticeable from the outside later on if i ever take the h/e out, it was just that the angle of it seemed like the bottom was angled towards the rear, and the mounting bracket was too far off the bumper so idk... f***in cut that ****

 

Here is my heat exchanger install. This was easeier than the stupid carbon creations hood that got the mounting holes wrong. Anyway. This is the OTTP unit and there are a few things to keep in mind. Get a 1/4" Brass plug. The part number at orilleys is in the picture at the bottom. And hose routing is a pain, remove the driver side radiator support to help with removing the hose on the stock heat exchanger, that took me forever and I ended up cutting off the stock hose clamp with a angle grinder.




The OTTP HE weighs in at 8 lbs 10 oz.


Removing the forward two plastic push pins allows you to get the HE up and in to the bumper to allow for placement and to mark the holes. Its a perfect fit, almost like the bumper was designed to allow its placement on all sides.



Use a step bit to drill the holes, its a lot easier, can be had at harbor freight for less than 10 bucks for 3 of them.





You will need to pop the top four push pins from the radiator support and this will allow you to get your hands down into tighten the bolts. I used a 14 mm wrench and a TORX 50 bit on a 3/8" drive wratchet make sure you have the large TORX before you start the install.








You can see this sits higher than the lip of the bumper, no worries of scraping. I removed the black air dam from below the radiator, it comes off with two push pins as well. This whole car is held together with plastic pins...




This is the part number and the part needed to replace the lower radiator drain valve. The OTTP unit sits low but I bought a 1/4" NPT plug from orilleys for 3 bucks. You can see the radiator doesnt sit lower than the bumper now. No worries of it scraping.





Now this was the hardest part of the install, the radiator bolted on in less than 30 minutes. Getting the stock hose off the lower stock HE was the biggest problem. I cut it off with an angle grinder.


This pic is the new hoses that come with the OTTP unit. it includes clamps and bolts, everything you need.




At the bottom right of this picture is the radiator support, remove the 3 bolts and yet ANOTHER plastic push pin to get at the hose clamp. Took me an hour on this one part. Frustrating... The rest were just push on the hose and clamp. Easy enough. The routing can be found here. http://www.zzperformance.com/miscftp/HE routing1.jpg or http://www.zzperformance.com/miscftp/HE routing2.jpg

 

Hey not only do you have the same color car as me, but you also have the same color jackstands!

 

Since this thread has been derailed so far off track and there are pictures here I am going to ask. Is there a reason you guys are using a straight fitting instead of a 90° fitting?

 

never thought the thread derailed...

anyway, mine is only a a few weeks old and is now for sale. I went turbo...

 

Did you plumb it in without removing the front fascia? If so, how the heck?

 

When I remove the hoses from the stock H/E out line and the Pump's in line, how much coolant should I expect to come out? Also, should the car be jacked up when I do this to drain all the fluid out? Or is level fine?

I'm a bit confused about refilling, would I refill the stock H/E and the new H/E through the same filler tube in front of the radiator?

THanks!

 

The thread is far from derailed....

Other members posted their install based off of my how to.

Anyways, Redlines need to use a 90 degree fiting due to clearance issues. Cobalts do not have this clearance problem.

 

Would this work with the ZZP S2 H/E?

 

Yes, it should.

 

subd