Nice!!! Hey you never updated us on how the car was coming along. Also what boost gauge did you get? (Sry I know this is the wrong thread )

 

lol, thanks =)

Haven't got the new boost gauge yet. I think I'm going to go with the USA version of my stock gauge:



I was able to install my new KGB GR-2 front struts with new upper mounts, front cross drilled and slotted rotors, sway bar end links, control arm bushings and rear shocks myself. The shop had to use a sledge hammer to beat off my rear rotors, and the pads were seized right inside the carrier! They had to air chisel them out!!! Cleaned everything up on the wire wheel and put my new drilled and slotted rotors on the rear, with some new semi metallic pads (rotor manufacturer said they'd void the warranty if I used ceramic!? ). Car handles like a dream now, and the knock, knock, clunk, clunk is all gone!!

Sorry for not replying if you posted in other threads, e-mail notification of replies seems to be really hit and miss

Off to finish the bump in the trunk install!

-Jamie M.

 

^^ That's good. I would highly suggest a mechanical gauge tho, I loved the look of my stock one but it was way to inaccurate. Just search mechanical vs electric in you tube and you can see it for yourself. Btw good luck with the car and I'm glad your giving it some needed love.... Still wish I could have found a blue one though... Oh I still have my stock one if you want it you can have it, no charge

 

Ok, so I got the box with the sub all mounted in the car (DAMN it's heavy!), thought it was going to rip the bolts right out of the body!! . Got the amp all mounted (to the back of the seat, not where I wanted upside down on the bottom of the rear deck, but oh well).

Took the factory subwoofer connector and wires (that previously were soldered to the stock sub) and made an adapter to convert it to RCA jacks because my amp (JL 500/1v2) uses RCA jacks even for the high level input!

I set the JL amp for "high level" inputs (which is what it should be), and started with the gain all the way down. I put in a bass test CD and cranked up Bass, I love you by Basstronics (*Note: You will NOT hear ANY bass in this song if you are using headphones, or if you don't have a subwoofer!!), and I wasn't getting ANY sound from the sub I cranked the gain right up to max, still nothing!!

I checked the polarity of my dual voice coils to make sure I didn't have one of them reversed, nope, all good. Used a voltmeter to check the output of the amp, and sure enough it was putting out sound!! Only .56v AC though! Not even enough to hear!

So I switched the amp to "low level" input and I started to get a little thump thump from the sub, but it was VERY quiet, about the same as the stock sub! This is with the gain set to max on LOW LEVEL and the sound level should be earth shatteringly loud!!! WTF?!?

I cranked the bass boost, etc., everything to MAX on the amp, and I had a little more bump bump than stock

I started searching around for similar issues when I came across a BMW forum where people were reporting low volume when using aftermarket amps! The solution was to "bridge" the factory amp!!! I for sure didn't think it'd work and just kick out the factory amp, etc. but gave it a try anyway.

This is how I re-wired the stock sub connector and wires to my RCA cables (I hope it makes sense, the black square is the stock sub connector and wires, basically I soldered the two red wires from the stock subwoofer wiring TOGETHER and soldered them to the TWO center wires from the RCA cables, all four wires soldered together! Same thing with the blacks). :



I fired up the bass test tune again and OMFG! It just about blew my head right out of the trunk! I had my head right beside the speaker, to listen if it was going to make any noise

I put the input switch back to "high level" inputs, and turned the gain all the way to 0 and it was THUMP THUMP THUMPING away! WOOT!!! Will have pics and vids tomorrow

Sooooo. This got me to thinking....

IS IT POSSIBLE TO BRIDGE THE STOCK AMP AND GET WAY MORE BUMP FROM THE STOCK SUB!??!

I'm too lazy to test this, but someone, please, try this and let us know!!!

On your factory sub, connect the positive (red) terminal on the one side/voice coil of the sub to the positive terminal on the other side! Do the same with the black. You could also do this without taking the sub out of the box, just solder the two reds to each other (same with the blacks) before they head into the sub box, that'd do the same thing.

PLZ TRY IT!!!

-Jamie M.

 

I'm gonna be doing this next week. I ordered a pioneer sub (TS-SW2501S2) and I'm using an Alpine amp I already have ( MRP-M500). instead of using the hi input on the amp, I bought a little converter thing that you wire up to the stock sub harness as if you're using the hi input (like SWmaster explained in his how to), but it has and RCA cable plug to use so you can just plug it into the amp like you were plugging in the sub output of an aftermarket HU.

 

Just curious about the opinions on going with these two since the OPs items have been discontinued.

Amazon.com: Pioneer TS-SW2501S4 10-Inch Step Up Shallow S4 Subwoofer: Electronics

Amazon.com: Pioneer GM-D8500M Class-D Mono Amplifier with 1200 Watts Max. Power: Car Electronics

 

Will this setup work with the stock Pioneer setup in the HHR?

 

Can the stock amp in the car power a 12" aftermarket sub? Wondering if i bought a 12, just pull the stock sub out and drop the 12" in and be done with it. or do we stock not even have an amp?

stock sub kicks nice now but wouldnt mind little bit more every now and then. not looking for those crazy setups. just little more kick than stock.

Thanks

 

subd n printed for use this weekend.

 

Post pics, I so want to do this but I need some time and money.

 

It's a pretty universal How-To.. It'll work on pretty much anything. But considering your car is pretty much the same as Cobalts, I'd say it's set up the same way as the cobalts. If you know the basics about how to hook up subs and amps, this will be easy for you.

 

I set the gain on the amp to a little less then half. I run my headunit with the treble and bass maxed and the system sounds fantastic. It can rumble and shake when there is music with lots of bass and it is balanced and not too boomy when it is not supposed to be. The bass scales perfectly with volume. If you setup the system the way I have you can use the head units bass control to vary your bass down for when your passengers don't share the love of bass you do. There shouldn't be any problems with the sub hitting the stock grill unless you are playing techmaster *techno bass cd* at high volume levels. If you want to add that little bit of extra clearance for the woofer then add washers to the screws that hold the grill.[/QUOTE]

where did you buy the white 4 plug adapter to plug into the amp? i bought my amp used so it didn't come with it and i really need one. any idea where i can find one online? I've been looking and have had no luck.

 

ZZP COBALT

I used the wiring that came with the stock sub I bought off eBay and turned that into an adapter. If you are going to mod the stock enclosure you will have what you need. If not I suggest trying the 4 pin power connector off of an old pc power supply. It might work.

I have had this setup for 3 years and it sounds as good as the first day I put it in.

 

Lots of great info got my system done cause of this tread

Thanks to all contributors

 

I'm looking to do this but my amp does not have a high frequency input, only RCA's. Can anyone recommend a good converter to do this?

 

I've been using this Scosche LOC-80.

Scosche LOC-80 (loc80) Two Channel Adjustable Line Output

 

I've installed a Kicker CVT 104 in the stock pioneer sub box. I had to drill new holes and cut out ~1/4" for the opening.








^^^^I reinforced it with some #10 threaded rod to help keep the box from flexing.





This is what I have running the sub.

 

Nice

 

so if i install an aftermarket amp should i take out the stock amp or just leave it alone?

 

leave it alone

 

Subbed

 

I did something similar to this the other day. Only difference was that I used an 18" sub in a box that i had to take the back seats out to fit in, a 1700watt rms amp and an extra battery. It's not quite as stock looking but oh well

 

Sub

 

Didn't read the entire thread but does anyone here know the cubic feet of the factory plastic box?? I just want to know my limitations.

 

under .5 cu ft