JBP VORTEX Header group by????
02-19-2009, 09:47 AM
#429
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02-19-2009, 02:40 PM
#430
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i passed by alocal muffler shop today, they gave me an amazing price, their making me a 3 inch downpipe, installing my vortex header, with the downpipe and the magnflow high flow cat, exhaust... all for 385$ after tax canadian dollars
02-19-2009, 09:11 PM
#431
Senior Member
Vortex header install
Okay, I recieved the header but my car is in storage and Raptors also got one, we just finished the install on his.
First, this is no joke, it is easy to put on and we did it with the car on the floor. 2.5hrs total time.
We installed this on his 07 Ion redline. Keep in mind that there is slightly more room on the Cobalt SS, and there is alot of clearance room for the header, nowhere near the firewall, no cutting or wrapping of primaries....GREAT JOB JBP!!
1. As per instructions, remove valve cover to gain extra clearance for hands. Remove the down pipe and exhaust manifold, pretty straight forward.
2. Do not remove the half shaft, not necessary, just slip the header in upside down (downpipe flange up first / head flange facing front of car) pivot it up on the passenger side and up it goes, once past the half shaft, rotate the header into its proper position for the flange to face up.
3. I highly recommend doing this, a little patience required. Keep the studs in the head, Only remove a stud if it interfers in installation, but reinstall after header is on!! Trim a 1/4" off the nut end of the# 2 primary lower stud (this one is directly behind a tube and is the only hard one to do)( almost impossible using the supplied cap bolts) We installed the header with 6 of the nine studs in place!! Then proceeded to install another stud and only used 2 cap bolts. Could have used all 9 but 2 were no good.
4. Install header gasket / NOTE.... before putting header up onto studs, tweak the A/C line that is in a C bend on the firewall, just slightly bend line to go up for clearance... BE CAREFUL!! and GENTLE!!
5. Install header onto studs and start threading on the old lock nuts/ now only put them on for a few threads and continue to install all the other header studs or supplied cap bolts.
6. When all the cap bolts/ studs are installed, tighten down from the center out, this will ensure the header stays even and flat on the mating surface.
7. Install your valve cover and be careful to make sure your ground strap on the driver side stays out from under the valve cover!! I have seen this more times than I want to count!!!
8. Install components, ( the PCV vent hose has two 13mm bolts, acutally one bolt one stud, only the bolt will but used on the passenger side of the valve cover, you will have to get a shorter 13mm for the other bracket as a header tube is too close to install the stud.) Install the O2 sensor and downpipe gaskets, tighten and start the vehicle check for leaks.... After the engine has warmed up, let it cool and go over the bolts to ensure they remained tight after the first heat cycle.
9. Enjoy your new header!!!!
Raptors says it has slightly better throttle response in the midrange and figures there is definetly more power, we will be putting the car on the dyno as soon as is possible. As for sound there is more growl under throttle and the pitch changed slightly but the car is still very quiet.
Keep in mind this car still retains the stock downpipe and catback. With the exhuast completely stock the car was putting just over 260whp down. We will dyno on the same dyno and log the same parameters, meaning IATs will be duplicated (IAT 2 ) when making the pulls. No tuning will take place to have a fair and accurate representation of the headers ability to make gains with just a bolt on application.
Also note that the header is installed on a modified car putting decent power to the ground so gains may not be representative to installation on a stock LSJ... Meaning it should make a bigger difference on a modded car. But gains are gains right..... I will see if we can get the car on the dyno early next week as Raptors is leaving town tomorrow.
Oh, it looks freakin sweet under the hood!!!!
I will put this disclaimer in here: I am an Auto tech and have done alot of performance work over the years, so I found this easy, however I feel anyone can do it, just take your time and take a break if needed. It will be easier after you take that break. Sorry for no pics as this install just seemed to happen out of the blue.
First, this is no joke, it is easy to put on and we did it with the car on the floor. 2.5hrs total time.
We installed this on his 07 Ion redline. Keep in mind that there is slightly more room on the Cobalt SS, and there is alot of clearance room for the header, nowhere near the firewall, no cutting or wrapping of primaries....GREAT JOB JBP!!
1. As per instructions, remove valve cover to gain extra clearance for hands. Remove the down pipe and exhaust manifold, pretty straight forward.
2. Do not remove the half shaft, not necessary, just slip the header in upside down (downpipe flange up first / head flange facing front of car) pivot it up on the passenger side and up it goes, once past the half shaft, rotate the header into its proper position for the flange to face up.
3. I highly recommend doing this, a little patience required. Keep the studs in the head, Only remove a stud if it interfers in installation, but reinstall after header is on!! Trim a 1/4" off the nut end of the# 2 primary lower stud (this one is directly behind a tube and is the only hard one to do)( almost impossible using the supplied cap bolts) We installed the header with 6 of the nine studs in place!! Then proceeded to install another stud and only used 2 cap bolts. Could have used all 9 but 2 were no good.
4. Install header gasket / NOTE.... before putting header up onto studs, tweak the A/C line that is in a C bend on the firewall, just slightly bend line to go up for clearance... BE CAREFUL!! and GENTLE!!
5. Install header onto studs and start threading on the old lock nuts/ now only put them on for a few threads and continue to install all the other header studs or supplied cap bolts.
6. When all the cap bolts/ studs are installed, tighten down from the center out, this will ensure the header stays even and flat on the mating surface.
7. Install your valve cover and be careful to make sure your ground strap on the driver side stays out from under the valve cover!! I have seen this more times than I want to count!!!
8. Install components, ( the PCV vent hose has two 13mm bolts, acutally one bolt one stud, only the bolt will but used on the passenger side of the valve cover, you will have to get a shorter 13mm for the other bracket as a header tube is too close to install the stud.) Install the O2 sensor and downpipe gaskets, tighten and start the vehicle check for leaks.... After the engine has warmed up, let it cool and go over the bolts to ensure they remained tight after the first heat cycle.
9. Enjoy your new header!!!!
Raptors says it has slightly better throttle response in the midrange and figures there is definetly more power, we will be putting the car on the dyno as soon as is possible. As for sound there is more growl under throttle and the pitch changed slightly but the car is still very quiet.
Keep in mind this car still retains the stock downpipe and catback. With the exhuast completely stock the car was putting just over 260whp down. We will dyno on the same dyno and log the same parameters, meaning IATs will be duplicated (IAT 2 ) when making the pulls. No tuning will take place to have a fair and accurate representation of the headers ability to make gains with just a bolt on application.
Also note that the header is installed on a modified car putting decent power to the ground so gains may not be representative to installation on a stock LSJ... Meaning it should make a bigger difference on a modded car. But gains are gains right..... I will see if we can get the car on the dyno early next week as Raptors is leaving town tomorrow.
Oh, it looks freakin sweet under the hood!!!!
I will put this disclaimer in here: I am an Auto tech and have done alot of performance work over the years, so I found this easy, however I feel anyone can do it, just take your time and take a break if needed. It will be easier after you take that break. Sorry for no pics as this install just seemed to happen out of the blue.
02-20-2009, 11:45 AM
#435
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Yeah I wasn't really planning on doing it either but we were slow at the shop so I figured I'd work on it while I helped the few customers that were in that day. The hardest part is just having patience to get all the bolts/studs in because a lot of the primaries are in the way. Has anyone asked for pictures of it installed? I can snap a few if anyone's interested.
02-20-2009, 04:04 PM
#438
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I will bring the car in the shop tonight and snap some pics.... ill even take some from underneath if you guys want. I didn't have to use any header wrap on my redline and there should be more clearance on the cobalts so I would say no. I really like the way this thing sounds. I was worried it would be loud and annoying. It's no louder than stock, a little different sound and has a bit of a mean growl too it.
02-20-2009, 09:40 PM
#443
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got mine today and the box was all smashed and trashed despite the fragile sticker... gasket was folded almost completely in half and only got 1 bolt and 1 washer so i e-mailed jbp and they said they'd send new ones out for me asap... AWESOME SERVICE!! cause i know it wasn't there fault!!!
02-21-2009, 02:37 AM
#448
Senior Member
so the whole steup is on including the header, the car si definetly more powerful, but my fuel economy went down drastically and my new magnaflow high flow cat sounds like my stock cat when it was busted? it buzzes under any acceleration, is that how a high flow cat is supposed to sound like?
02-21-2009, 02:58 AM
#450
so the whole steup is on including the header, the car si definetly more powerful, but my fuel economy went down drastically and my new magnaflow high flow cat sounds like my stock cat when it was busted? it buzzes under any acceleration, is that how a high flow cat is supposed to sound like?
