Just got a nitrous express kit :)
#26
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UPDATE!
Just finished wiring the solenoids, all lines are ran. Main fuel line is tapped through fuel pressure test valve. Arming switch is wired up.
To do list:
1. Mount tank
2. Install shark nozzle
3. Install WOT (wide open throttle) switch
Then I am done untill I get the RPM window switch, purge valve and bottle warmer.
Just finished wiring the solenoids, all lines are ran. Main fuel line is tapped through fuel pressure test valve. Arming switch is wired up.
To do list:
1. Mount tank
2. Install shark nozzle
3. Install WOT (wide open throttle) switch
Then I am done untill I get the RPM window switch, purge valve and bottle warmer.
#28
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Take off your supercharger and I bet some of the coating is already eaten away. I have some chips missing off mine on the leading edge of a rotor already and it's only 20k miles old. I don't run Nitrous Either. It smells like gas/oil as well. It's stock except a 3 inch pulley.
Orange cobalt, I would recommend a WOT switch under the pedel. The TPS system is VERY sensitive because of the drive by wire and if you tap into that system you will put your car into disabled mode. I spent lots of time trying to get it to work and it would work for maybe one drive session and the next it wouldn't let me start the car.
I think you are gonna be happy with your results. When you setup your JET sizes make sure you realize the stock fuel PSI is 60 PSI and not the normal 43.5 PSI
Orange cobalt, I would recommend a WOT switch under the pedel. The TPS system is VERY sensitive because of the drive by wire and if you tap into that system you will put your car into disabled mode. I spent lots of time trying to get it to work and it would work for maybe one drive session and the next it wouldn't let me start the car.
I think you are gonna be happy with your results. When you setup your JET sizes make sure you realize the stock fuel PSI is 60 PSI and not the normal 43.5 PSI
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Originally Posted by zinner
Take off your supercharger and I bet some of the coating is already eaten away. I have some chips missing off mine on the leading edge of a rotor already and it's only 20k miles old. I don't run Nitrous Either. It smells like gas/oil as well. It's stock except a 3 inch pulley.
Orange cobalt, I would recommend a WOT switch under the pedel. The TPS system is VERY sensitive because of the drive by wire and if you tap into that system you will put your car into disabled mode. I spent lots of time trying to get it to work and it would work for maybe one drive session and the next it wouldn't let me start the car.
I think you are gonna be happy with your results. When you setup your JET sizes make sure you realize the stock fuel PSI is 60 PSI and not the normal 43.5 PSI
Orange cobalt, I would recommend a WOT switch under the pedel. The TPS system is VERY sensitive because of the drive by wire and if you tap into that system you will put your car into disabled mode. I spent lots of time trying to get it to work and it would work for maybe one drive session and the next it wouldn't let me start the car.
I think you are gonna be happy with your results. When you setup your JET sizes make sure you realize the stock fuel PSI is 60 PSI and not the normal 43.5 PSI
These kind of comments are what make me want to build an injector plate for between the intercooler and blower. Anyone think this is feasible?
#30
Originally Posted by zinner
Take off your supercharger and I bet some of the coating is already eaten away. I have some chips missing off mine on the leading edge of a rotor already and it's only 20k miles old. I don't run Nitrous Either. It smells like gas/oil as well. It's stock except a 3 inch pulley.
Orange cobalt, I would recommend a WOT switch under the pedel. The TPS system is VERY sensitive because of the drive by wire and if you tap into that system you will put your car into disabled mode. I spent lots of time trying to get it to work and it would work for maybe one drive session and the next it wouldn't let me start the car.
I think you are gonna be happy with your results. When you setup your JET sizes make sure you realize the stock fuel PSI is 60 PSI and not the normal 43.5 PSI
Orange cobalt, I would recommend a WOT switch under the pedel. The TPS system is VERY sensitive because of the drive by wire and if you tap into that system you will put your car into disabled mode. I spent lots of time trying to get it to work and it would work for maybe one drive session and the next it wouldn't let me start the car.
I think you are gonna be happy with your results. When you setup your JET sizes make sure you realize the stock fuel PSI is 60 PSI and not the normal 43.5 PSI
That TPS comment makes me think twice about the Zex kit now...
:edit:
And I guess I have found my answer out thanks to that chart.
Last edited by IonNinja; 04-25-2006 at 08:55 PM.
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I can't see how a small shot can ruin a rotor like that.. Right in the intake for easy removal. I woulnd want to start drilling wholes everywhere.. I would go with a 50 shot max.
#32
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Originally Posted by zinner
Orange cobalt, I would recommend a WOT switch under the pedel. The TPS system is VERY sensitive because of the drive by wire and if you tap into that system you will put your car into disabled mode. I spent lots of time trying to get it to work and it would work for maybe one drive session and the next it wouldn't let me start the car.
I think you are gonna be happy with your results. When you setup your JET sizes make sure you realize the stock fuel PSI is 60 PSI and not the normal 43.5 PSI
I think you are gonna be happy with your results. When you setup your JET sizes make sure you realize the stock fuel PSI is 60 PSI and not the normal 43.5 PSI
Thanks for the tip, much appreciated. Do you know what the proper jetting is for my engine? The 2.2 Cobalt is not listed in the jetting chart.
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Originally Posted by slowion2
if you're concerned contact NX directly, they will do the legwork for you
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haha it happens.
I'm running the jets as noted in the book under Saturn for the 2.2 (same ecotec in the Ions and Cobalts) and have had no problems. It also notes the same fuel pressure of 50-60psi.
I'm running the jets as noted in the book under Saturn for the 2.2 (same ecotec in the Ions and Cobalts) and have had no problems. It also notes the same fuel pressure of 50-60psi.
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Originally Posted by slowion2
haha it happens.
I'm running the jets as noted in the book under Saturn for the 2.2 (same ecotec in the Ions and Cobalts) and have had no problems. It also notes the same fuel pressure of 50-60psi.
I'm running the jets as noted in the book under Saturn for the 2.2 (same ecotec in the Ions and Cobalts) and have had no problems. It also notes the same fuel pressure of 50-60psi.
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haha actually I"m running the jetting for the s-series, so I"m running a "rich" 75 shot. if you're overly concerned you can do the same (run a 24 fuel jet instead of 22), but I think you'll be ok. I'm looking to dyno within the next month or two and find out how much I"m gaining from this shot, and what my a/f is while on the bottle.
you're gonna love this stuff though man, I can tell already.
you're gonna love this stuff though man, I can tell already.
#38
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Originally Posted by slowion2
haha actually I"m running the jetting for the s-series, so I"m running a "rich" 75 shot. If you're overly concerned you can do the same (run a 24 fuel jet instead of 22), but I think you'll be ok. I'm looking to dyno within the next month or two and find out how much I"m gaining from this shot, and what my a/f is while on the bottle.
you're gonna love this stuff though man, I can tell already.
you're gonna love this stuff though man, I can tell already.
Be sure to post your dyno results when you get them.
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when you test it, do not have your bottle opened. when it arms it will stumble from the added fuel. at that point, it's safe to test with the nitrous as well. you don't want to find out the hard way that only one solenoid has actual clean power connections, or that the fuel is stuck closed by fluke.
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Originally Posted by slowion2
when you test it, do not have your bottle opened. when it arms it will stumble from the added fuel. at that point, it's safe to test with the nitrous as well. you don't want to find out the hard way that only one solenoid has actual clean power connections, or that the fuel is stuck closed by fluke.
Yeah, I already check for the fuel. But I just """"""DON'T""""" want to hit the rev limit and have the spark cut off with nitrous spraying into my engine. Do the rpm's shoot past really quick when the spray kicks in? Or will I have enough time to let off the gass before I hit the rev limit?
Last edited by orangecobalt; 04-27-2006 at 01:47 PM.
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hard to say, this is the main reason to run your window switch. if you hit your limiter while spraying you get a nice "boom" reaction out of your action hahaha
seriously though, if you're concerned and don't want to risk damaging something, wait out for your switch to come in.
seriously though, if you're concerned and don't want to risk damaging something, wait out for your switch to come in.
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Originally Posted by slowion2
hard to say, this is the main reason to run your window switch. if you hit your limiter while spraying you get a nice "boom" reaction out of your action hahaha
seriously though, if you're concerned and don't want to risk damaging something, wait out for your switch to come in.
seriously though, if you're concerned and don't want to risk damaging something, wait out for your switch to come in.
haha, yeah I think I will just wait. Better safe than sorry. Thanks man, you have been a great help to me with this topic. Have a good one.
#47
Originally Posted by orangecobalt
Well I am in Newfoundland (some of you might not even know this province exists) so as you can imagine it is hard to find this type of stuff around here and not to mention more expensive. When I priced a kit at one place down here it was $799 plus tax (15% tax here) so it runs pretty close to $1000. I will try to find a link to the exact kit.
im a newfie too!! im pricing a new zex nitrous kit for my SS S/C aswell, i'll see ya on the street!! Also, does anyone know how good the pistons are for HP, i heard 300 and 450, and 600, anyone really know? and were i can get performance pistons.. im eventually going to be getting a stage 5 kit which is good to 275 hp but if the pistons are only good to 300 hp and the zex kit will give me a 50 shot minimum thats 325 hp, bye bye pistons!!
#49
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omfg this is gonna be sweet...orange, you have the exact setup im gonna have...cant wait to see how it goes for you good luck and enjoy!
EDIT: definately listen to ion he knows his **** and will look out for ya
EDIT: definately listen to ion he knows his **** and will look out for ya
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