Nitrous Oxide N20

Just got a nitrous express kit :)

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Old 04-24-2006, 07:15 PM
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UPDATE!

Just finished wiring the solenoids, all lines are ran. Main fuel line is tapped through fuel pressure test valve. Arming switch is wired up.

To do list:
1. Mount tank
2. Install shark nozzle
3. Install WOT (wide open throttle) switch

Then I am done untill I get the RPM window switch, purge valve and bottle warmer.
Old 04-24-2006, 09:05 PM
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Car is gonna boogie man, Nitrous is the poor man's weapon and the first time you hit it you'll be giggling like a little school girl, enjoy
Old 04-24-2006, 10:12 PM
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Take off your supercharger and I bet some of the coating is already eaten away. I have some chips missing off mine on the leading edge of a rotor already and it's only 20k miles old. I don't run Nitrous Either. It smells like gas/oil as well. It's stock except a 3 inch pulley.

Orange cobalt, I would recommend a WOT switch under the pedel. The TPS system is VERY sensitive because of the drive by wire and if you tap into that system you will put your car into disabled mode. I spent lots of time trying to get it to work and it would work for maybe one drive session and the next it wouldn't let me start the car.

I think you are gonna be happy with your results. When you setup your JET sizes make sure you realize the stock fuel PSI is 60 PSI and not the normal 43.5 PSI
Old 04-24-2006, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by zinner
Take off your supercharger and I bet some of the coating is already eaten away. I have some chips missing off mine on the leading edge of a rotor already and it's only 20k miles old. I don't run Nitrous Either. It smells like gas/oil as well. It's stock except a 3 inch pulley.

Orange cobalt, I would recommend a WOT switch under the pedel. The TPS system is VERY sensitive because of the drive by wire and if you tap into that system you will put your car into disabled mode. I spent lots of time trying to get it to work and it would work for maybe one drive session and the next it wouldn't let me start the car.

I think you are gonna be happy with your results. When you setup your JET sizes make sure you realize the stock fuel PSI is 60 PSI and not the normal 43.5 PSI

These kind of comments are what make me want to build an injector plate for between the intercooler and blower. Anyone think this is feasible?
Old 04-25-2006, 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by zinner
Take off your supercharger and I bet some of the coating is already eaten away. I have some chips missing off mine on the leading edge of a rotor already and it's only 20k miles old. I don't run Nitrous Either. It smells like gas/oil as well. It's stock except a 3 inch pulley.

Orange cobalt, I would recommend a WOT switch under the pedel. The TPS system is VERY sensitive because of the drive by wire and if you tap into that system you will put your car into disabled mode. I spent lots of time trying to get it to work and it would work for maybe one drive session and the next it wouldn't let me start the car.

I think you are gonna be happy with your results. When you setup your JET sizes make sure you realize the stock fuel PSI is 60 PSI and not the normal 43.5 PSI
does that mean that the fuel jet size is going to be different than what is recommended by the specific manufacturer or is it only at 60psi for a SS/SC?

That TPS comment makes me think twice about the Zex kit now...

:edit:
And I guess I have found my answer out thanks to that chart.

Last edited by IonNinja; 04-25-2006 at 08:55 PM.
Old 04-25-2006, 09:26 AM
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I can't see how a small shot can ruin a rotor like that.. Right in the intake for easy removal. I woulnd want to start drilling wholes everywhere.. I would go with a 50 shot max.
Old 04-25-2006, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by zinner
Orange cobalt, I would recommend a WOT switch under the pedel. The TPS system is VERY sensitive because of the drive by wire and if you tap into that system you will put your car into disabled mode. I spent lots of time trying to get it to work and it would work for maybe one drive session and the next it wouldn't let me start the car.

I think you are gonna be happy with your results. When you setup your JET sizes make sure you realize the stock fuel PSI is 60 PSI and not the normal 43.5 PSI

Thanks for the tip, much appreciated. Do you know what the proper jetting is for my engine? The 2.2 Cobalt is not listed in the jetting chart.
Old 04-25-2006, 12:46 PM
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if you're concerned contact NX directly, they will do the legwork for you
Old 04-25-2006, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by slowion2
if you're concerned contact NX directly, they will do the legwork for you
lol, DUH. I am a idiot. I forgot about tech support
Old 04-25-2006, 01:21 PM
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haha it happens.

I'm running the jets as noted in the book under Saturn for the 2.2 (same ecotec in the Ions and Cobalts) and have had no problems. It also notes the same fuel pressure of 50-60psi.

Old 04-25-2006, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by slowion2
haha it happens.

I'm running the jets as noted in the book under Saturn for the 2.2 (same ecotec in the Ions and Cobalts) and have had no problems. It also notes the same fuel pressure of 50-60psi.

Perfect, thanks. Much apreciated bud. I guess it should be exactly the same for me.
Old 04-26-2006, 02:44 PM
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haha actually I"m running the jetting for the s-series, so I"m running a "rich" 75 shot. if you're overly concerned you can do the same (run a 24 fuel jet instead of 22), but I think you'll be ok. I'm looking to dyno within the next month or two and find out how much I"m gaining from this shot, and what my a/f is while on the bottle.

you're gonna love this stuff though man, I can tell already.
Old 04-26-2006, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by slowion2
haha actually I"m running the jetting for the s-series, so I"m running a "rich" 75 shot. If you're overly concerned you can do the same (run a 24 fuel jet instead of 22), but I think you'll be ok. I'm looking to dyno within the next month or two and find out how much I"m gaining from this shot, and what my a/f is while on the bottle.

you're gonna love this stuff though man, I can tell already.
Am I that predictable? haha, yeah I think so too. I just finished installing the shark nozzle and i must say .... a bitch it was. (me in the driveway ---> ) lol. All I need to do now is mount the bottle brackets and I am done untill I order the GEN X 2 kit along with a widow switch. Oh yeah, the WOT switch is done too.

Be sure to post your dyno results when you get them.
Old 04-27-2006, 12:06 PM
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Ahhh, everything is done Would it be safe to test this out before I get an RPM window switch? If so, how?
Old 04-27-2006, 12:10 PM
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it's safe as long as everything is properly installed. just dont floor the throttle until your above 3000rpm and your good.
Old 04-27-2006, 12:23 PM
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when you test it, do not have your bottle opened. when it arms it will stumble from the added fuel. at that point, it's safe to test with the nitrous as well. you don't want to find out the hard way that only one solenoid has actual clean power connections, or that the fuel is stuck closed by fluke.
Old 04-27-2006, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by slowion2
when you test it, do not have your bottle opened. when it arms it will stumble from the added fuel. at that point, it's safe to test with the nitrous as well. you don't want to find out the hard way that only one solenoid has actual clean power connections, or that the fuel is stuck closed by fluke.
<<<EDIT>>>
Yeah, I already check for the fuel. But I just """"""DON'T""""" want to hit the rev limit and have the spark cut off with nitrous spraying into my engine. Do the rpm's shoot past really quick when the spray kicks in? Or will I have enough time to let off the gass before I hit the rev limit?

Last edited by orangecobalt; 04-27-2006 at 01:47 PM.
Old 04-27-2006, 01:36 PM
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hard to say, this is the main reason to run your window switch. if you hit your limiter while spraying you get a nice "boom" reaction out of your action hahaha

seriously though, if you're concerned and don't want to risk damaging something, wait out for your switch to come in.
Old 04-27-2006, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by slowion2
hard to say, this is the main reason to run your window switch. if you hit your limiter while spraying you get a nice "boom" reaction out of your action hahaha

seriously though, if you're concerned and don't want to risk damaging something, wait out for your switch to come in.

haha, yeah I think I will just wait. Better safe than sorry. Thanks man, you have been a great help to me with this topic. Have a good one.
Old 04-27-2006, 01:48 PM
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Opps. I just edited my previous post. I meant to say I DON'T want to hit the rev limt.
Old 04-27-2006, 02:19 PM
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lol yeah I saw that, I was hoping it was a typo

no problem, hope it goes well for you
Old 07-28-2006, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by orangecobalt
Well I am in Newfoundland (some of you might not even know this province exists) so as you can imagine it is hard to find this type of stuff around here and not to mention more expensive. When I priced a kit at one place down here it was $799 plus tax (15% tax here) so it runs pretty close to $1000. I will try to find a link to the exact kit.
Cheers Man,
im a newfie too!! im pricing a new zex nitrous kit for my SS S/C aswell, i'll see ya on the street!! Also, does anyone know how good the pistons are for HP, i heard 300 and 450, and 600, anyone really know? and were i can get performance pistons.. im eventually going to be getting a stage 5 kit which is good to 275 hp but if the pistons are only good to 300 hp and the zex kit will give me a 50 shot minimum thats 325 hp, bye bye pistons!!
Old 07-28-2006, 08:54 AM
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holy triple post batman!
Old 08-10-2006, 03:10 PM
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omfg this is gonna be sweet...orange, you have the exact setup im gonna have...cant wait to see how it goes for you good luck and enjoy!

EDIT: definately listen to ion he knows his **** and will look out for ya
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