Wisconsin Thread (Team Rev & Others)
#4351
I dont have a tig welder at home but I do have the option to tack the system up on the car and take it to work and tig weld it there. Ive got my mig and that always works fine for me. Ive lost track of how many exhaust systems ive made and they all work great. as far as the bends go if you wanna order 2 90's and a 180 that'll work fine. usually i cut 22 degree and 45 degree wedges and weld them together. makes really nice bends that I can make super tight if they need to be or gradual. either way. Im not in this for the money. I enjoy custom fab work and if you guys can get a nice exhaust for a few bucks rather that a few hundred that will make both of us happy cuz i like keeping money in my pocket and im sure you guys do to.
PS. Sorry mike Ill change that asap
PS. Sorry mike Ill change that asap
#4353
feel free to text me or call. If i don't get back to you after 3pm try again. I work in a factory so i have 0 cell reception and sometimes txts and calls don't even go through. I have plenty of tools so there's not much I cant do. If you guys have any projects or something you wanna do but don't wanna try it alone or just don't have the tools or space hit me up.
PS. I also HP Tune, do painted headlight housings, can paint rims and other stuff, custom fiberglass box's, I can also make the custom 2 gauge pod that goes around the stock gauge cluster, and I also plan on making a custom aluminum water meth tank that will sit directly across from the stock sub for a really nice look. just gotta see how much its gonna cost to get the parts laser'd out at work. Ill tig weld them myself so they shouldn't cost to much if any one wants one.
PS. I also HP Tune, do painted headlight housings, can paint rims and other stuff, custom fiberglass box's, I can also make the custom 2 gauge pod that goes around the stock gauge cluster, and I also plan on making a custom aluminum water meth tank that will sit directly across from the stock sub for a really nice look. just gotta see how much its gonna cost to get the parts laser'd out at work. Ill tig weld them myself so they shouldn't cost to much if any one wants one.
#4354
How much for the two better tires? Also get aluminized steel, matt said it will last a very long time and if your not planning on keeping the car forever, the alum steel is best bang for ur buck, also he can make ur dp as well if ya don't have one already, also he makes the flanges at work on a machine they are exact to ours
#4355
Generally, regular steel becomes stainless when chromium is added to it. Chromium has an element that allows it to produce a filmy texture. This film serves as a buffer that prevents corrosion and even scratches and cuts. The more chromium is added to steel, the more stainless it becomes. This means that it becomes even more resistant to corrosion or oxidation. The addition of nickel content to the steel also enhances its resistance. Obviously, stainless steel products that turn rusty right away have less chromium content in its material and they are mostly made from t304 stainless steel.
The t304 and t409 are stainless steel production systems. The t304 system is more expensive because it is made to be more durable and it is a higher quality of stainless steel. The t304 system is generally used in equipment that requires more strength and durability like in cars and machines.
The difference between t304 and t409 stainless steel lies in their chromium content. T304 has more chromium component than t409 at 18 to 20 percent. It also has a nickel content of 8 to 10 percent. The t409 only has chromium content of 10.50 to 11.75 percent. Its nickel content is only 0.50 percent. The t304 has so much chromium and nickel content and very little ferrous material that magnets will not stick to it.
Knowing the difference between the t304 and t409 stainless steel will greatly help you when you buy stainless steel products. The t304 system will not oxidize or rust. However, it can develop a golden color when exposed to high heat over time. The t409 stainless steel has a lot of ferrous material in it and can show surface oxidation after a while, especially when exposed to calcium chloride or salt. However, this can be prevented by applying stainless steel cleanser using a scouring pad.
If you are concerned about long-term appearance, then you should get the t304. If you are more concerned about the price but want something that is fairly durable, then the t409 will work just as well.
The t304 and t409 are stainless steel production systems. The t304 system is more expensive because it is made to be more durable and it is a higher quality of stainless steel. The t304 system is generally used in equipment that requires more strength and durability like in cars and machines.
The difference between t304 and t409 stainless steel lies in their chromium content. T304 has more chromium component than t409 at 18 to 20 percent. It also has a nickel content of 8 to 10 percent. The t409 only has chromium content of 10.50 to 11.75 percent. Its nickel content is only 0.50 percent. The t304 has so much chromium and nickel content and very little ferrous material that magnets will not stick to it.
Knowing the difference between the t304 and t409 stainless steel will greatly help you when you buy stainless steel products. The t304 system will not oxidize or rust. However, it can develop a golden color when exposed to high heat over time. The t409 stainless steel has a lot of ferrous material in it and can show surface oxidation after a while, especially when exposed to calcium chloride or salt. However, this can be prevented by applying stainless steel cleanser using a scouring pad.
If you are concerned about long-term appearance, then you should get the t304. If you are more concerned about the price but want something that is fairly durable, then the t409 will work just as well.
#4356
Please stop miss leading people. 304 stainless is a lower grade then 409. I build industrial heat treating ovens for a living and when we build a high temperature oven (1300*+) we use 409 for the duct work because it can handle the higher heat then the 304. Because of its ability to take on higher temps 409 cost way more then 304.
#4358
Nice find Derek. Stainless Online | Information on t304 and t409 stainless steel
#4363
^ ...wait, where'd he come from?
Anyway, we use 304L on our trucks, but there has been some talk of switching to 409 because its cheaper by a fair amount, the only issue that I've heard of is that 409 is harder to form so there is more labor cost in it. I'd stay away from aluminized carbon steel unless you garage it in the winter or you get it with a coating greater than a t1-25 so that the coating is greater than 0.025" otherwise it won't take much to rust up with the road salt.
Anyway, we use 304L on our trucks, but there has been some talk of switching to 409 because its cheaper by a fair amount, the only issue that I've heard of is that 409 is harder to form so there is more labor cost in it. I'd stay away from aluminized carbon steel unless you garage it in the winter or you get it with a coating greater than a t1-25 so that the coating is greater than 0.025" otherwise it won't take much to rust up with the road salt.
#4366
Hmm... Maybe tubing and sheet metal are different. I swear that we pay more for 409. Either way stainless isn't cheap.
Nice find Derek. Stainless Online | Information on t304 and t409 stainless steel
Nice find Derek. Stainless Online | Information on t304 and t409 stainless steel
Last edited by OneCOLDBIZL272; 03-12-2012 at 11:05 PM.
#4368
So I am bored at work, and was thinking, the boost by-pass valve is operated by vacuum... And off the top of my head I think there is a spring in the unit, so with that the butterfly valve would be closed when the car is off/low vacuum.. so if I get a 12 volt solonoid and use that to cut the vacuum lime, the SC would scream the second you touch the gas threw town right????
#4369
So I am bored at work, and was thinking, the boost by-pass valve is operated by vacuum... And off the top of my head I think there is a spring in the unit, so with that the butterfly valve would be closed when the car is off/low vacuum.. so if I get a 12 volt solonoid and use that to cut the vacuum lime, the SC would scream the second you touch the gas threw town right????
#4370
I was just wondering, I would not use this very often, just thought about it tonight while I was changing one out on the casepacker...
#4372
#4373
I'm going to guess closed, when you step on the gas, engine load increases causing a loss in vacuum, closing the valve....so in theory, if I put in the solonoid valve, the valve will be closed and the scream from the S/C should be instant, unlike now, where it takes a second or 2
#4374
Matt is puttin an exhaust on vape(mark) car on sat, anyone wanna come by can, also we were gunna meet in fondy there's a group of guyz I met n they meet up on sat to cruise n shoot the ****, some gd comp from what I saw n assume will b there I hope