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Wisconsin Thread (Team Rev & Others)

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Old 03-12-2012 | 03:44 PM
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I dont have a tig welder at home but I do have the option to tack the system up on the car and take it to work and tig weld it there. Ive got my mig and that always works fine for me. Ive lost track of how many exhaust systems ive made and they all work great. as far as the bends go if you wanna order 2 90's and a 180 that'll work fine. usually i cut 22 degree and 45 degree wedges and weld them together. makes really nice bends that I can make super tight if they need to be or gradual. either way. Im not in this for the money. I enjoy custom fab work and if you guys can get a nice exhaust for a few bucks rather that a few hundred that will make both of us happy cuz i like keeping money in my pocket and im sure you guys do to.


PS. Sorry mike Ill change that asap
Old 03-12-2012 | 03:51 PM
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I thought u had a tig at home besides my bad no biggie bud whenever eric if u nd tires they're all urs bud, and a vibe, she nd a custom exhaust on that bad boy? Sds gd tho bud
Old 03-12-2012 | 03:51 PM
  #4353  
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feel free to text me or call. If i don't get back to you after 3pm try again. I work in a factory so i have 0 cell reception and sometimes txts and calls don't even go through. I have plenty of tools so there's not much I cant do. If you guys have any projects or something you wanna do but don't wanna try it alone or just don't have the tools or space hit me up.

PS. I also HP Tune, do painted headlight housings, can paint rims and other stuff, custom fiberglass box's, I can also make the custom 2 gauge pod that goes around the stock gauge cluster, and I also plan on making a custom aluminum water meth tank that will sit directly across from the stock sub for a really nice look. just gotta see how much its gonna cost to get the parts laser'd out at work. Ill tig weld them myself so they shouldn't cost to much if any one wants one.
Old 03-12-2012 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by strazdice
How much for the two better tires? Also get aluminized steel, matt said it will last a very long time and if your not planning on keeping the car forever, the alum steel is best bang for ur buck, also he can make ur dp as well if ya don't have one already, also he makes the flanges at work on a machine they are exact to ours
Oh I might need a dp too
Old 03-12-2012 | 06:21 PM
  #4355  
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Originally Posted by OneCOLDBIZL272
Generally, regular steel becomes stainless when chromium is added to it. Chromium has an element that allows it to produce a filmy texture. This film serves as a buffer that prevents corrosion and even scratches and cuts. The more chromium is added to steel, the more stainless it becomes. This means that it becomes even more resistant to corrosion or oxidation. The addition of nickel content to the steel also enhances its resistance. Obviously, stainless steel products that turn rusty right away have less chromium content in its material and they are mostly made from t304 stainless steel.

The t304 and t409 are stainless steel production systems. The t304 system is more expensive because it is made to be more durable and it is a higher quality of stainless steel. The t304 system is generally used in equipment that requires more strength and durability like in cars and machines.

The difference between t304 and t409 stainless steel lies in their chromium content. T304 has more chromium component than t409 at 18 to 20 percent. It also has a nickel content of 8 to 10 percent. The t409 only has chromium content of 10.50 to 11.75 percent. Its nickel content is only 0.50 percent. The t304 has so much chromium and nickel content and very little ferrous material that magnets will not stick to it.

Knowing the difference between the t304 and t409 stainless steel will greatly help you when you buy stainless steel products. The t304 system will not oxidize or rust. However, it can develop a golden color when exposed to high heat over time. The t409 stainless steel has a lot of ferrous material in it and can show surface oxidation after a while, especially when exposed to calcium chloride or salt. However, this can be prevented by applying stainless steel cleanser using a scouring pad.

If you are concerned about long-term appearance, then you should get the t304. If you are more concerned about the price but want something that is fairly durable, then the t409 will work just as well.
Please stop miss leading people. 304 stainless is a lower grade then 409. I build industrial heat treating ovens for a living and when we build a high temperature oven (1300*+) we use 409 for the duct work because it can handle the higher heat then the 304. Because of its ability to take on higher temps 409 cost way more then 304.
Old 03-12-2012 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by stealthy1ss
Please stop miss leading people. 304 stainless is a lower grade then 409. I build industrial heat treating ovens for a living and when we build a high temperature oven (1300*+) we use 409 for the duct work because it can handle the higher heat then the 304. Because of its ability to take on higher temps 409 cost way more then 304.
Actually you have this backwards. 409 is cheaper and will rust a bit. Borla strictly uses 304 stainless but 409 is the less expensive industry standard for automotive use.
Old 03-12-2012 | 06:57 PM
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If someone needs the tires just pm me.
Old 03-12-2012 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Frogstofall
Actually you have this backwards. 409 is cheaper and will rust a bit. Borla strictly uses 304 stainless but 409 is the less expensive industry standard for automotive use.
Hmm... Maybe tubing and sheet metal are different. I swear that we pay more for 409. Either way stainless isn't cheap.

Nice find Derek. Stainless Online | Information on t304 and t409 stainless steel
Old 03-12-2012 | 07:24 PM
  #4359  
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^
Old 03-12-2012 | 07:37 PM
  #4360  
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Old 03-12-2012 | 07:54 PM
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Old 03-12-2012 | 08:19 PM
  #4362  
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Old 03-12-2012 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Chevycobaltss3
^ ...wait, where'd he come from?



Anyway, we use 304L on our trucks, but there has been some talk of switching to 409 because its cheaper by a fair amount, the only issue that I've heard of is that 409 is harder to form so there is more labor cost in it. I'd stay away from aluminized carbon steel unless you garage it in the winter or you get it with a coating greater than a t1-25 so that the coating is greater than 0.025" otherwise it won't take much to rust up with the road salt.
Old 03-12-2012 | 09:50 PM
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Yeah I would only buy stainless.
Old 03-12-2012 | 10:03 PM
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I came out of no where.. lol ( i posted here along time ago) So when i seen frogstofall post i came in lol!!
Old 03-12-2012 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by stealthy1ss
Hmm... Maybe tubing and sheet metal are different. I swear that we pay more for 409. Either way stainless isn't cheap.

Nice find Derek. Stainless Online | Information on t304 and t409 stainless steel
It's common basic knowledge. It answered what his question was asking crystal. Better than I could explain it in my own words in the time I had when I seen his post. Wasn't like it was false info. It was all info I my self already knew.

Last edited by OneCOLDBIZL272; 03-12-2012 at 11:05 PM.
Old 03-12-2012 | 10:29 PM
  #4367  
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Originally Posted by Chevycobaltss3
Hey hey, tell John I said hi! I havnt talked to him in a while. I got a new phone and changed the number a few months ago.
Old 03-13-2012 | 12:58 AM
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So I am bored at work, and was thinking, the boost by-pass valve is operated by vacuum... And off the top of my head I think there is a spring in the unit, so with that the butterfly valve would be closed when the car is off/low vacuum.. so if I get a 12 volt solonoid and use that to cut the vacuum lime, the SC would scream the second you touch the gas threw town right????
Old 03-13-2012 | 01:05 AM
  #4369  
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Originally Posted by robertmichaels
So I am bored at work, and was thinking, the boost by-pass valve is operated by vacuum... And off the top of my head I think there is a spring in the unit, so with that the butterfly valve would be closed when the car is off/low vacuum.. so if I get a 12 volt solonoid and use that to cut the vacuum lime, the SC would scream the second you touch the gas threw town right????
I don't think at that low rpm's touching the pedal you'll get much whine, if any. I'd probably leave the PCM to control it, fairly quick to respond already and one less thing to go wrong.
Old 03-13-2012 | 01:24 AM
  #4370  
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Originally Posted by CCrunner84
I don't think at that low rpm's touching the pedal you'll get much whine, if any. I'd probably leave the PCM to control it, fairly quick to respond already and one less thing to go wrong.
I was just wondering, I would not use this very often, just thought about it tonight while I was changing one out on the casepacker...
Old 03-13-2012 | 03:41 AM
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As far as I know its completely vacuum operated but there is Probly a spring in there but i dont think there is.
Old 03-13-2012 | 05:47 AM
  #4372  
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From: Plymouth WI
R engine
Originally Posted by jamies06ss/sc
As far as I know its completely vacuum operated but there is Probly a spring in there but i dont think there is.
Their is a spring, I just can't remember if it holds it open or closed naturally
Old 03-13-2012 | 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by robertmichaels
R engine

Their is a spring, I just can't remember if it holds it open or closed naturally
I'm going to guess closed, when you step on the gas, engine load increases causing a loss in vacuum, closing the valve....so in theory, if I put in the solonoid valve, the valve will be closed and the scream from the S/C should be instant, unlike now, where it takes a second or 2
Old 03-14-2012 | 05:26 AM
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Matt is puttin an exhaust on vape(mark) car on sat, anyone wanna come by can, also we were gunna meet in fondy there's a group of guyz I met n they meet up on sat to cruise n shoot the ****, some gd comp from what I saw n assume will b there I hope
Old 03-14-2012 | 05:47 AM
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any1 close to dubuque


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