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WTB: LSJ Rod Cap Bolts
#1
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WTB: LSJ Rod Cap Bolts
I'm doing a quick build this week and I need my car up and running by Thursday morning.I have all of the parts ordered and arriving tomorrow except I can not source rod cap bolts...
If anyone has LSJ rod cap bolts, OEM or Aftermarket, I am looking to buy today and will pay overnight.* Any help would be appreciated.* Bump if ya can...
If anyone has LSJ rod cap bolts, OEM or Aftermarket, I am looking to buy today and will pay overnight.* Any help would be appreciated.* Bump if ya can...
#5
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I'm doing a quick build this week and I need my car up and running by Thursday morning.I have all of the parts ordered and arriving tomorrow except I can not source rod cap bolts...
If anyone has LSJ rod cap bolts, OEM or Aftermarket, I am looking to buy today and will pay overnight.* Any help would be appreciated.* Bump if ya can...
If anyone has LSJ rod cap bolts, OEM or Aftermarket, I am looking to buy today and will pay overnight.* Any help would be appreciated.* Bump if ya can...
I have like 4 sets of lsj rod bolts lmk
#6
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I'd assume that it's been a long time coming w/ how rich my car was for a good amount of time back before I could tune it myself. That combined w/ a lot of hard driving a high HP took it's toll on the engine. It truly is a testimate to this motor how well and hard it ran even w/ compression like I had. I was trapping 109 w/ the M62 on a 2.79" and w/ the turbo at 15psi it felt a bit faster.
75-125-150-150
If I hadn't swapped to turbo, it would probably have held up for a good amount longer too. The pressure difference from the turbo was probably what put it over the edge. I'm going to guess that when I pull the pistons, I'll find a cracked landing on cylinder #1.
At this point, I'll just take my time and get the darton sleeves put in along w/ having the head P&P'd. I have diamond pistons and total seal rings being delivered today, lol...
See above,
Thanks, but it's no biggie now, I've got a good amount of time before the engine will be assembled again. Thanks though!
75-125-150-150
If I hadn't swapped to turbo, it would probably have held up for a good amount longer too. The pressure difference from the turbo was probably what put it over the edge. I'm going to guess that when I pull the pistons, I'll find a cracked landing on cylinder #1.
At this point, I'll just take my time and get the darton sleeves put in along w/ having the head P&P'd. I have diamond pistons and total seal rings being delivered today, lol...
Thanks, but it's no biggie now, I've got a good amount of time before the engine will be assembled again. Thanks though!
#8
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#9
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I'm debating if I'm going to go with the supertech valve springs or not. I don't plan on revving it past 7300rpm. I'm sending my head to a friend, who I think works with/for kaltechtuning, for a valve job and port the exhaust side of the head.
#10
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If you're keeping the stock cams, don't bother, just port...
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#13
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Dude, I just talked to the guy rebuilding my motor about my build. He said to go with .010" over, that way I can bore the cylinders to make sure they are truly round. That sometimes with mass produced engine parts they aren't perfectly round, although they are close.
Last edited by all4glh; 07-22-2009 at 08:08 PM.
#14
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He's right; however this engines tolerances tend to be better than most. I wouldn't go w/ more than .10 if you're running big power, but you should be fine on .10 over. I was a little worried about using stock bore for the reason that they may not be perfect. Don't have to worry about that now, lol...
Last edited by Edubs; 07-24-2009 at 12:42 PM.
#17
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Tom @ Crate Engine Depot.. He can get them to you quick too.. He was awesome to work with when I was in a rush for some odds & ends to get mine back on the road a few months ago..
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