Problems/Service/Maintenance Do you have problems with your new 2.0, 2.2, or 2.4L? What kind of service did you have done?

07 Cobalt Coolant

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Old 04-15-2012, 03:17 PM
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Yea that is true guess i shouldnt listen to everything i hear ill prolly drain it then
Old 04-15-2012, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by heathkidder
Well ill ask u another dumb ? Then uno how u can see the temp gauge on ur cluster well is there anyway to find out temp for the h/e system
For you, I don't believe so. On lsj's, it's more important to determine how cool the charged air is after it's been cooled in the intake manifold. We measure this temperature change with a secondary map sensor known as the IAT2 sensor (Internal Air Temperature 2). The IAT1 sensor is integrated into our MAF sensor (which you have as well). Knowing and comparing the two temperatures lets us know if the s/c system is heat-soaking or operating normally after various driving conditions (normal, idle, WOT, etc.). Because 2.2 and 2.4 vehicles didn't come from factory s/c'd, I don't see any way of adding a provision for the pcm to read an IAT2 sensor. I could be wrong though. It's been years since I've followed up on any progress for s/c builds.
Old 04-15-2012, 03:21 PM
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Thanks for the info
Old 04-15-2012, 05:31 PM
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Dex is orange, even the 50/50 mix, too many people add water, this is a big no no, you only add water to the non pre mixed one, and only between 30% and 50% should be water. Too much water causes rust and corrosion, do not use more water than 50% in your cooling system.
Old 04-15-2012, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by mexi_loco
For you, I don't believe so. On lsj's, it's more important to determine how cool the charged air is after it's been cooled in the intake manifold. We measure this temperature change with a secondary map sensor known as the IAT2 sensor (Internal Air Temperature 2). The IAT1 sensor is integrated into our MAF sensor (which you have as well). Knowing and comparing the two temperatures lets us know if the s/c system is heat-soaking or operating normally after various driving conditions (normal, idle, WOT, etc.). Because 2.2 and 2.4 vehicles didn't come from factory s/c'd, I don't see any way of adding a provision for the pcm to read an IAT2 sensor. I could be wrong though. It's been years since I've followed up on any progress for s/c builds.
You can wire in the LSJ MAP sensor and steal the temp wire from the MAF. You will then be reading IAT2's but the computer will see it as IAT1 so that's where you would read it on an interceptor

Originally Posted by johnccc
Dex is orange, even the 50/50 mix, too many people add water, this is a big no no, you only add water to the non pre mixed one, and only between 30% and 50% should be water. Too much water causes rust and corrosion, do not use more water than 50% in your cooling system.
Considering basically every part of the motor that the cooling system runs through is aluminum, rust would not be an issue
Old 04-15-2012, 06:22 PM
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No, You will get rust by using only water, I have had to flush mine intensely due to the stupidity of a dumb mechanic adding water instead of coolant. I had plenty of rust water and the coolant reservoir is now rust brown on the inside, even after a good radiator flush, so please, do not say rust will not be an issue, when it clearly will be. Car Engines are not made from aluminum, otherwise they wouldn't way a as mush as they do, would they? Please consider the entire cooling system, not just parts of it, such as, metal hoses, the radiator, coolant temp sensor, thermostat, there is plenty of places water can cause rust there, especially if your radiator is not in "perfect" shape. There is a reason why "rust inhibitor" is added to coolant, you don't think they add it for nothing, right?

Last edited by johnccc; 04-15-2012 at 06:28 PM.
Old 04-15-2012, 06:26 PM
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^^^agreed. Aluminum is still a metal, and all metals rust.
Old 04-15-2012, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by mexi_loco
^^^agreed. Aluminum is still a metal, and all metals rust.
All metals do not rust... Especially aluminum and as for the comment about car engines not being made of aluminum, the block, head, oil pan and valve cover of every cobalt is made of aluminum
Old 04-15-2012, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by bluebalt07
All metals do not rust... Especially aluminum and as for the comment about car engines not being made of aluminum, the block, head, oil pan and valve cover of every cobalt is made of aluminum
I will not argue with a fellow member, lets just let Wiki take care of it.

GM Family II engine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

@ OP

Please, do not add too much water, they tell you coolant is best for a reason, use it, lol.

Last edited by johnccc; 04-15-2012 at 08:40 PM.
Old 04-15-2012, 08:39 PM
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well, if you want to get technical, you're correct. By definition, rust refers to iron and steel. But it can corrode, and that's what I mean. You're making it seem as if aluminum is impervious to corrosion when in fact it's not. And having pure water without dex-cool (possible any coolant) can cause it to form "white rust". Now, as for the radiator, I'm not sure if it's made out of aluminum as well, but if it's not, then you will run the risk of rust flaking off and getting into areas where coolant travels.
Old 04-15-2012, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by mexi_loco
well, if you want to get technical, you're correct. By definition, rust refers to iron and steel. But it can corrode, and that's what I mean. You're making it seem as if aluminum is impervious to corrosion when in fact it's not. And having pure water without dex-cool (possible any coolant) can cause it to form "white rust". Now, as for the radiator, I'm not sure if it's made out of aluminum as well, but if it's not, then you will run the risk of rust flaking off and getting into areas where coolant travels.

Exactly, this adds up to mal-functioning thermostats and sensors and even causing blockages, this could end up overheating your engine causing so much damage, you will be slapping yourself because of repair bills up to $1000 and more, simply because you added too much water, or didn't buy the $15 bottle of coolant. If the coolant was $40, I'd buy it still, beats hundred dollar repairs... Wouldn't you?

Besides, I think there is much galvanization going on in there, so any surface damage, such as a bent radiator, would instantly result in rust and corrosion, rust water is corrosive and it will coat your entire cooling system in rust.

You're making it seem as if aluminum is impervious to corrosion when in fact it's not
Mother Nature will destroy EVERYTHING.
Old 04-16-2012, 12:38 PM
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I say use what the owners manual says: Dex Cool
Old 04-16-2012, 09:45 PM
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Im going to use the dexcool concentrate Prestone. Then going to mix it 50/50 with distilled water.

So what are the steps for doing a coolant flush and re-fill then? Is it just drain out old stuff, put in new stuff like an oil change or is there more to it? Thanks (07 2.2 N/A) if that matters.
Old 04-19-2012, 03:15 AM
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Aluminum does rust in a sense, just not the way that iron does. When aluminum rusts (Oxidizes) it forms a hard coating on the outer perimeter. This coating actually acts as a protective barrier, and this why it takes aluminum so long to disintegrate.
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