2007 LS w/n Crank - CEL Stays On w/o Key
#1
2007 LS w/n Crank - CEL Stays On w/o Key
2007 LS, 5 spd...out of warranty.
Yesterday the car won't crank...lights are bright, battery is fine. Turned out to be a loose clutch safety switch not closing when clutch pedal was fully depressed. Adjusted switch, all's well. Tonight I'm leaving a resteraunt and same thing, except now the CEL remains on after key is removed! I disconnected the battery hoping to clear the computer. The battery disconnect cleared the CEL but as soon as I turned the key to start, CEL turns on and remains on until I disconnect the battery. Engine will still not crank. I manually depressed and held the clutch switch while turning key, but nothing. Car remains in parking lot until I can get back tomorrow during daylight. Forum search was fruitless. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Ed
San Antonio, TX
Yesterday the car won't crank...lights are bright, battery is fine. Turned out to be a loose clutch safety switch not closing when clutch pedal was fully depressed. Adjusted switch, all's well. Tonight I'm leaving a resteraunt and same thing, except now the CEL remains on after key is removed! I disconnected the battery hoping to clear the computer. The battery disconnect cleared the CEL but as soon as I turned the key to start, CEL turns on and remains on until I disconnect the battery. Engine will still not crank. I manually depressed and held the clutch switch while turning key, but nothing. Car remains in parking lot until I can get back tomorrow during daylight. Forum search was fruitless. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Ed
San Antonio, TX
#2
try your other key...it may be tripping the key sensor, this has happened before. That and you need to pickup a code reader and find out the code.
Is everything ok in the engine?? oil, gas, all that...??car may be sensing too low on something and not starting??
best bet is to read the code though
Is everything ok in the engine?? oil, gas, all that...??car may be sensing too low on something and not starting??
best bet is to read the code though
#3
This sounds like an ECM failure. unless youve got over 80k miles your ECM is covered.
If you check your codes (if it will even communicate) youve probably got something like P0601, P0602, P0603, P0604, P0606, or P062F . If youve got any of those, youll most likely (99%) need a new ECM
If you check your codes (if it will even communicate) youve probably got something like P0601, P0602, P0603, P0604, P0606, or P062F . If youve got any of those, youll most likely (99%) need a new ECM
Last edited by Maven; 11-08-2008 at 12:58 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#4
Thanks for the replies. I was also suspecting the ECM but with 50k on the odo I did not know if it was covered under warranty. Local dealer is open today, I'll give them a visit and report back!
Problem solved!
For those who may be interested, it was the ignition switch. Had the car towed to dealer this morning. No fault codes present, just a bad switch with corresponding weird electrical anomolies. All's well now...switch was $34 plus one hour labor.
Thanks for all the advice!
Problem solved!
For those who may be interested, it was the ignition switch. Had the car towed to dealer this morning. No fault codes present, just a bad switch with corresponding weird electrical anomolies. All's well now...switch was $34 plus one hour labor.
Thanks for all the advice!
Last edited by kafer79; 11-08-2008 at 02:54 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#5
Thanks for the replies. I was also suspecting the ECM but with 50k on the odo I did not know if it was covered under warranty. Local dealer is open today, I'll give them a visit and report back!
Problem solved!
For those who may be interested, it was the ignition switch. Had the car towed to dealer this morning. No fault codes present, just a bad switch with corresponding weird electrical anomolies. All's well now...switch was $34 plus one hour labor.
Thanks for all the advice!
Problem solved!
For those who may be interested, it was the ignition switch. Had the car towed to dealer this morning. No fault codes present, just a bad switch with corresponding weird electrical anomolies. All's well now...switch was $34 plus one hour labor.
Thanks for all the advice!
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