2008 SS/TC Problems watch out!!!
10-29-2008, 11:03 PM
#53
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And for the retard who says not to go through the water pitt with a FWD car. I ran a 14.2 @ 100mph on a bone stock SS/SC. I'm the only one on this site to do that, and posted 4th best stock time here. Guess what, I went through the water. People here need to stop acting like they are pros. I have a 10 second truck, and have driven 9 second FWD cars. Its fine to go through the water.
10-29-2008, 11:04 PM
#54
Hows everyone doin I'm a new member but I want to inform everyone of some problems I have had with my new TC balt I had 4275 miles on it a month ago when the problems started I was spinning water off the tires finished and the check engine light turned on the DIC said ENGINE POWER REDUCED I didnt do anything crazy so I was like ok what ever I the tree drops and I go or I thought I was going to go anyways I ran a 30 sec 1/4 mile it felt like the car had no turbo and 1 cylinder so the next day chevy tows my car fix the problem it was some cheap tube somewhere had snapped sorry no more info on that. well they fix that take it on a test drive and smell something burning bring it back in put it on a lift and see trans fluid comming out the bottom refill and as soon as they put trans fluid in it comes out find a straight line crack in the bell housing GM doesnt make parts for the trans and no extras for warrenties are avail yet and the trans is made by SAAB so they have to pull it off the assembly line that took 3 weeks to get in the mean time I told them of something that happened once I just got gas and was driving my gauge dropped from full to empty in 2 sec i pulled over to make sure I didnt have a huge hole in the tank I didnt, turned the car on still read empty so I took off with the gas to the floor and used the no lift shift and as soon as i hit 2nd the fuel gauge came alive again and read full so long story short GM replaced the transmission, fuel pump, fuel module, the cheap plastic tube, and some more crap i dont have the repair order in front of me but chevy told me it was just over 10 GRAND in repairs for parts and labor so watch out and have fun with your TC balt
Lets get something straight I know things break I love the car all I am saying is the GM engineers did over 600 burnouts and launch control tests with 1 test car and it held so there was a manufacuring flaw somewhere I know how to drive and this problem hasnt occered with me before and it pays to have friends within GM I appreciate all they did for me
also if you use the no lift shift at over 6000 rpms it will float the valves and the check engine light will blink or if you dont shift within the time limit of approx.3 sec i think it is the valves will float and the check engine light will stay on for approx 3 days with codes for a cylinder 3and 4 misfires
Is this what our world is coming to?
10-29-2008, 11:08 PM
#55
Hows everyone doin I'm a new member but I want to inform everyone of some problems I have had with my new TC balt I had 4275 miles on it a month ago when the problems started I was spinning water off the tires finished and the check engine light turned on the DIC said ENGINE POWER REDUCED I didnt do anything crazy so I was like ok what ever I the tree drops and I go or I thought I was going to go anyways I ran a 30 sec 1/4 mile it felt like the car had no turbo and 1 cylinder so the next day chevy tows my car fix the problem it was some cheap tube somewhere had snapped sorry no more info on that. well they fix that take it on a test drive and smell something burning bring it back in put it on a lift and see trans fluid comming out the bottom refill and as soon as they put trans fluid in it comes out find a straight line crack in the bell housing GM doesnt make parts for the trans and no extras for warrenties are avail yet and the trans is made by SAAB so they have to pull it off the assembly line that took 3 weeks to get in the mean time I told them of something that happened once I just got gas and was driving my gauge dropped from full to empty in 2 sec i pulled over to make sure I didnt have a huge hole in the tank I didnt, turned the car on still read empty so I took off with the gas to the floor and used the no lift shift and as soon as i hit 2nd the fuel gauge came alive again and read full so long story short GM replaced the transmission, fuel pump, fuel module, the cheap plastic tube, and some more crap i dont have the repair order in front of me but chevy told me it was just over 10 GRAND in repairs for parts and labor so watch out and have fun with your TC balt
Last edited by OneCOLDBIZL272; 10-30-2008 at 12:23 AM.
10-29-2008, 11:12 PM
#57
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Tc
this isnt true. There are plenty of SS/SC's and SS/TC's that havent broken at the track, and push power levels far exceeding a stock SS/TC's power levels. In addition the transmission in those cars is rated at 350+ wtq. I seriously doubt his car is making that much power. His car has some faulty equipment in it is all.
Also, wheelhop tends to destroy the axels, not the tranny. I believe they fixed the wheelhop issues in the SS/TC
Also, wheelhop tends to destroy the axels, not the tranny. I believe they fixed the wheelhop issues in the SS/TC
10-29-2008, 11:23 PM
#58
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GT-R threads:
http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=25361
http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=25912
http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=25807 (later found that MOTU was actually a Nissan tech from that dealer)
Except that you then spray water all the way down the track since you just tracked water into the tread.
http://www.tamparacing.com/forums/dr...licks-drs.html
There's probably a very valid reason for you the only one doing it - because you're a fool and everyone else knows NOT to do that. Radials or slicks? Yes. Street tires? God no.
Correct.
http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=25361
http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=25912
http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=25807 (later found that MOTU was actually a Nissan tech from that dealer)
And for the retard who says not to go through the water pitt with a FWD car. I ran a 14.2 @ 100mph on a bone stock SS/SC. I'm the only one on this site to do that, and posted 4th best stock time here. Guess what, I went through the water. People here need to stop acting like they are pros. I have a 10 second truck, and have driven 9 second FWD cars. Its fine to go through the water.
http://www.tamparacing.com/forums/dr...licks-drs.html
There's probably a very valid reason for you the only one doing it - because you're a fool and everyone else knows NOT to do that. Radials or slicks? Yes. Street tires? God no.
Correct.
10-29-2008, 11:23 PM
#59
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thats funny
I love how you say you're at about 270 whp when your sig below says a different story. Based on your sig you're at about 270 at the crank, and I highly doubt you're on the same clutch as the day you bought the car brand new with under 50 miles on it.
The SS\TC has a luxary car tranny in it that was not made for abuse, but GM Engineers have prooven that it can handle over 600 no-lift launches btb.
For grammar sake, it's Not (broke) axles, no (broke) tranny and no (broke) engine. broke is back woods, 3rd grade material. It's "No broken".
The SS\TC has a luxary car tranny in it that was not made for abuse, but GM Engineers have prooven that it can handle over 600 no-lift launches btb.
For grammar sake, it's Not (broke) axles, no (broke) tranny and no (broke) engine. broke is back woods, 3rd grade material. It's "No broken".
hmm, well im about 270whp (more then a turbo SS) and I have been to the track say 15 times. Every time I ran atleast 4-5 times.
So lets say 75 runs down the track.
No broke Axles
No broke tranny
No broke engine
STILL HAVE STOCK CLUTCH
45,000 miles.....
Hmmm, in comparison, his 1 run down the track should not have killed his tranny. That was a pre-existing issue, and was a failure on GM's part.
So lets say 75 runs down the track.
No broke Axles
No broke tranny
No broke engine
STILL HAVE STOCK CLUTCH
45,000 miles.....
Hmmm, in comparison, his 1 run down the track should not have killed his tranny. That was a pre-existing issue, and was a failure on GM's part.
10-29-2008, 11:24 PM
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10-29-2008, 11:29 PM
#61
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Good tires and springs eliminate the hop though. Plus, GM's plants all had a small strike when the tc's got built at the Lordstown facility, so therein may be the problem.
10-29-2008, 11:38 PM
#62
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Who knows? This car could have been abused since day one. Plus, it doesn't matter how good you drive, when you take it to the track sooner or later something will break.
10-29-2008, 11:46 PM
#63
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GT-R threads:
http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=25361
http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=25912
http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=25807 (later found that MOTU was actually a Nissan tech from that dealer)
Except that you then spray water all the way down the track since you just tracked water into the tread.
http://www.tamparacing.com/forums/dr...licks-drs.html
There's probably a very valid reason for you the only one doing it - because you're a fool and everyone else knows NOT to do that. Radials or slicks? Yes. Street tires? God no.
Correct.
http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=25361
http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=25912
http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=25807 (later found that MOTU was actually a Nissan tech from that dealer)
Except that you then spray water all the way down the track since you just tracked water into the tread.
http://www.tamparacing.com/forums/dr...licks-drs.html
There's probably a very valid reason for you the only one doing it - because you're a fool and everyone else knows NOT to do that. Radials or slicks? Yes. Street tires? God no.
Correct.
10-30-2008, 01:12 AM
#64
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No... the track is WAY different than the street. A lot more stressful. All it will take is one bad case of wheel hop and goodbye transmission. You're incredibly lucky they are fixing it under warranty.
The SS T/C ain't no ******* performance car, get that out of your heads. It's a sport-oriented economy car. It is NOT by any means made for the track. Same with the SC... stop calling it a performance/sports car. It's a Cobalt people.
If you want to bring your car to the strip and beat the hell out of it, fine. But at least buy some proper equipment. The OEM 18's are NOT proper equipment to bring to the track... yet people still wonder why they break **** when they use the OEM wheels and tires. LOL. Buy some DR's and steelies or lightweight wheels.
The SS T/C ain't no ******* performance car, get that out of your heads. It's a sport-oriented economy car. It is NOT by any means made for the track. Same with the SC... stop calling it a performance/sports car. It's a Cobalt people.
If you want to bring your car to the strip and beat the hell out of it, fine. But at least buy some proper equipment. The OEM 18's are NOT proper equipment to bring to the track... yet people still wonder why they break **** when they use the OEM wheels and tires. LOL. Buy some DR's and steelies or lightweight wheels.
10-30-2008, 01:54 AM
#65
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Woah there!!!!
Your wrong again. The link you gave does not mean ****. This is why you make sure you keep burning out all the way through the pitt, onto the track and well past the stage sensors. If you do it the right way, you won't have water dragging down the track. When you get certified in NHRA than you can talk to me about what you know. I don't learn from other people's post, I learn from doing it myself and testing things out on my own. Don't need someone else telling me what to do. How do I know how creditable this guy is who posted that. Its kind of funny that it got only one good respond to. Thank you bye.
A pic of my car can be found here: http://www.wannaberacing.com/dragster.html
Sorry for the big picture on the site...I just wanted to make sure that the gentleman understood that I have a first-hand knowledge of 1/4 mile racing, since that is a concern of his.
Should the transmission have failed? I don't know...I wasn't there. I did not see the scenario unfold, nor can I vouch that he indeed has made only one pass. I'll take his word, for it. I would hope it lasts longer than one pass. However, when you go to run your car you're signing a waiver of liability when you sign your tech card, stating that you understand the risks involved. We broke a Strange Toploader with a $23 fastener failure, and trashed a diff that most guys run in TAFC and don't hurt for a full season. Parts fail. It happens. However, if your car is not responding the way you expect it to...the last place you should take it is down the strip. I don't need to sit and wait for the track crew to mop up 5 quarts of synthetic because you decided to leg it out, knowing that it was hurt in the first place.
Also, since the vehicles you mentioned have front brakes and do not run faster than 8.99, why are you burning out past the beams? This is not acceptable according to NHRA rules, which is why you will see Super Stock and even some Comp Eliminator door cars not burnout through the beams, as this is against the rules. Two more questions...what is your NHRA license number and what class is it???
This is not a war of who's car is faster, as I'm certain there are people on this site with cars faster than mine. 8.33 at 165 won't even qualify at most TD events, but the fact remains that if you go through a waterbox with your FWD car, your rear tire treads will drag their trapped water down the lane, for the next racer to deal with. That, my brothers and I DO know, as we have experienced the lack of traction first-hand.
BTW, I love the old Syclones. Those trucks are fun to watch run. Have you made any major mods to yours?
MLRTYME
'08 Sport Coupe
www.wannaberacing.com
Last edited by MLRTYME; 10-30-2008 at 03:12 AM.
10-30-2008, 10:02 AM
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10-30-2008, 10:32 AM
#67
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RWD does not cure wheelhop...go drive a GTO.
Tweaks were made to reduce wheel hop including new axles, motor mount, control arm bushings, and probably more than I'm not remembering off the top of my head.
That was just quoted for the irony.
That was just quoted for the irony.
10-30-2008, 11:08 AM
#68
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Um, I am certified by the NHRA... S/C 7201, license is a 4A (125" and above, to 7.50). My name is Dave Miller (in case you want to do a check with the Glendora head office) and I my brothers are ET 7423 and ET 7483. My car is a might bit more simplistic than your average 'balt to launch, but I can tell you that I DO know the difference of running right behind someone that just drug water in their REAR tire treads down the first 250-300 feet of the track. You can burn out your front tires in a 'balt all you want, but you still drag water in your rear tire treads down MY lane as I go to follow you...(or anyone else for that matter).
A pic of my car can be found here: http://www.wannaberacing.com/dragster.html
Sorry for the big picture on the site...I just wanted to make sure that the gentleman understood that I have a first-hand knowledge of 1/4 mile racing, since that is a concern of his.
Should the transmission have failed? I don't know...I wasn't there. I did not see the scenario unfold, nor can I vouch that he indeed has made only one pass. I'll take his word, for it. I would hope it lasts longer than one pass. However, when you go to run your car you're signing a waiver of liability when you sign your tech card, stating that you understand the risks involved. We broke a Strange Toploader with a $23 fastener failure, and trashed a diff that most guys run in TAFC and don't hurt for a full season. Parts fail. It happens. However, if your car is not responding the way you expect it to...the last place you should take it is down the strip. I don't need to sit and wait for the track crew to mop up 5 quarts of synthetic because you decided to leg it out, knowing that it was hurt in the first place.
Also, since the vehicles you mentioned have front brakes and do not run faster than 8.99, why are you burning out past the beams? This is not acceptable according to NHRA rules, which is why you will see Super Stock and even some Comp Eliminator door cars not burnout through the beams, as this is against the rules. Two more questions...what is your NHRA license number and what class is it???
This is not a war of who's car is faster, as I'm certain there are people on this site with cars faster than mine. 8.33 at 165 won't even qualify at most TD events, but the fact remains that if you go through a waterbox with your FWD car, your rear tire treads will drag their trapped water down the lane, for the next racer to deal with. That, my brothers and I DO know, as we have experienced the lack of traction first-hand.
BTW, I love the old Syclones. Those trucks are fun to watch run. Have you made any major mods to yours?
MLRTYME
'08 Sport Coupe
www.wannaberacing.com
A pic of my car can be found here: http://www.wannaberacing.com/dragster.html
Sorry for the big picture on the site...I just wanted to make sure that the gentleman understood that I have a first-hand knowledge of 1/4 mile racing, since that is a concern of his.
Should the transmission have failed? I don't know...I wasn't there. I did not see the scenario unfold, nor can I vouch that he indeed has made only one pass. I'll take his word, for it. I would hope it lasts longer than one pass. However, when you go to run your car you're signing a waiver of liability when you sign your tech card, stating that you understand the risks involved. We broke a Strange Toploader with a $23 fastener failure, and trashed a diff that most guys run in TAFC and don't hurt for a full season. Parts fail. It happens. However, if your car is not responding the way you expect it to...the last place you should take it is down the strip. I don't need to sit and wait for the track crew to mop up 5 quarts of synthetic because you decided to leg it out, knowing that it was hurt in the first place.
Also, since the vehicles you mentioned have front brakes and do not run faster than 8.99, why are you burning out past the beams? This is not acceptable according to NHRA rules, which is why you will see Super Stock and even some Comp Eliminator door cars not burnout through the beams, as this is against the rules. Two more questions...what is your NHRA license number and what class is it???
This is not a war of who's car is faster, as I'm certain there are people on this site with cars faster than mine. 8.33 at 165 won't even qualify at most TD events, but the fact remains that if you go through a waterbox with your FWD car, your rear tire treads will drag their trapped water down the lane, for the next racer to deal with. That, my brothers and I DO know, as we have experienced the lack of traction first-hand.
BTW, I love the old Syclones. Those trucks are fun to watch run. Have you made any major mods to yours?
MLRTYME
'08 Sport Coupe
www.wannaberacing.com
Good point - it's very bad form (and extremely dangerous) to even go down the track with anything busted (or potentially busted). Your trans case cracks, you drop oil, and the next guy loses control and meets the wall...
10-30-2008, 11:17 AM
#69
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No... the track is WAY different than the street. A lot more stressful. All it will take is one bad case of wheel hop and goodbye transmission. You're incredibly lucky they are fixing it under warranty.
The SS T/C ain't no ******* performance car, get that out of your heads. It's a sport-oriented economy car. It is NOT by any means made for the track. Same with the SC... stop calling it a performance/sports car. It's a Cobalt people.
If you want to bring your car to the strip and beat the hell out of it, fine. But at least buy some proper equipment. The OEM 18's are NOT proper equipment to bring to the track... yet people still wonder why they break **** when they use the OEM wheels and tires. LOL. Buy some DR's and steelies or lightweight wheels.
The SS T/C ain't no ******* performance car, get that out of your heads. It's a sport-oriented economy car. It is NOT by any means made for the track. Same with the SC... stop calling it a performance/sports car. It's a Cobalt people.
If you want to bring your car to the strip and beat the hell out of it, fine. But at least buy some proper equipment. The OEM 18's are NOT proper equipment to bring to the track... yet people still wonder why they break **** when they use the OEM wheels and tires. LOL. Buy some DR's and steelies or lightweight wheels.
They got lucky, or they have proper tires on the front. No joke, all it takes is one bad hop to trash the tranny. Especially at a sticky track. Usually the axle will snap before the tranny casing cracks but with the beefed up axles on the TC I am beginning to wonder if they are allowing the tranny to give out before the axles now.
10-30-2008, 01:11 PM
#70
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WOW!! Some guys really get carried away beating their chests. I've been around probably a lot longer than most of the posters on this site (64 years) so I think I have more experience with MECHANICAL things than most. It's a simple rule. "If a man made it he can find a way to break it". The Cobalt SS/TC is a factory built high performance car. Everything about it says "performance". The engine. Read the TRUE specs on the LNF. Not many production cars have forged cranks, rods. NONE have direct injection. VVT. Oil jets on the pistons. Etc. Search for "GM Sport Compact Performance Build Book" and check it out. The STOCK Ecotec block and head can handle over 750 horsepower. The Brembo brakes are some of the best you will find on ANY car manufactured in the US. The suspension is capable of lap times 13 seconds faster than any 2 liter FWD car on the Nurbergring race course. That includes some pretty prestigous high performance road cars. As a platform from which to build a pure race car it is right at the top of the heap. I could go on but the guys complaining about the car wouldn't understand anyway. As a side bar. The 1988 Pontiac Fiero was also considered a pretty good handling car. But it never had enough power. The V6 was from hunger and the 5 speed Getrag transmission was only rated for something like 165 HP. GM has been known to UNDER RATE the horse power of some of their engines and transmissions. Let me assure you the 165 horsepower rated Fiero trans has held up pretty well behind a 400 HP LS1. It is sitting under my carport right now. I did break an axle and blew the front seal out of the trans, oiling down the clutrch. But neither of these breakages occured while sitting under the carport. They happed at Orlando Speedworld Drag Strip. I took the car to the track to race it and didn't cry when it broke because **** happens. I guess my whole point here is DRIVE your car the way you want to drive it. If you KNOW it's limitations, don't exceed them if can't, or can't afford to, fix it when it breaks. If you DON'T know it's limitations you don't belong on ANY form of race track. To the guy whose trans broke. STOP CRYING!!! Don't for a minute think the service manager at the dealership that fixed your car didn't know exactly what happened that broke it. In the back of your SS/TC owners manual you can read about the data logger built into your car. All he has to do is down load it and he can tell you EXACTLY what was happening to that car during the 30 minutes prior to it's breaking. Most large police departments also have that capability. Everybody should read that portion of thear owners manual. It's big brother watching over your shoulder. It' scary. If GM didn't think the car couldn't handle the stresses imposed by a Launch control or No Lift Shift they wouldnt' tell you how to use them in the owners manual and they DAMN sure wouldn't warranty it when something breaks. The dealership makes a lot more money on NON warranty work than on warranty work. I'll quit now. I'm exhausted!
10-30-2008, 01:34 PM
#72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sscobaltscZ06
Some people would put a tuna sandwich under their hood if they heard someone else did it for more hp.
Where do you put it?
Last edited by buellfooll; 10-30-2008 at 01:34 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
10-30-2008, 04:11 PM
#74
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10-30-2008, 04:27 PM
#75
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